Compressor is HOT! Overload Protection HVAC Basics
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- čas přidán 2. 06. 2021
- Learn about compressor overload protection in HVAC systems with this HVAC basics video. Perfect for those in HVAC school looking to understand essential system components.
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In this video I answer questions like
what is compressor overload protection?
how do you use your meter to check compressor windings?
how is the compressor wired?
What is a hard start kit for?
How do you wire a hard start kit?
Towards the end of the video you see me cooling a compressor down and checking with a meter.
Tomorrow I will look for my gauges, the I can better diagnose the unit, thanks for your artful way of explaining the technical stuff.
You're welcome Joe thank you my friend for watching
Good job 👏
Thanks for explain
The day prior the capacitor to the compressor got burnt at the terminal, I replaced it and pinched all the other terminal to make sure they were tight, it ran for around 4 hours till the compressor got hot and shut down. A few years back ,I always had a problem with icing. I cleaned the evaporator coil, it was severely clogged, looked like cat hair. It peeled off like cat hair fabric. Your info is super helpful. The temperature coming out or the registers is around 68 degrees with an ambient outdoor temperature of 100 +. I can assume an old unit of this era a 30 degree cooling is probably as good as its gonna get.
Definitely get some gages hooked up and find out what the pressure is
Great information, thanks
Your Welcome Thank you for watching my friend 😊
I have an older
Rheem unit, I have lived here 30 years now. We don't use it all the time since it doesn't get hot in the house until 5 or 6 pm. By that time the outdoor temperature is cool enough to open a few windows and use fans to bring the outdoor air in. Today it was over 105 degrees the compressor got hot. I opened the cabinet and ran a strong fan over the compressor. I ended up leaving the cabinet door off and the axillary fan blowing across it to help keep it cool.It ran fine for the rest of the day. Oddly the compressor is in its own separate compartment and doesn't get any air movement at all from the condenser fan.
You can use a water hose and run some water over it or use a bag of ice and put a bag of ice over it
The unit is in the sun in the afternoon. I shaded it with a tall umbrella, it seemed to help, A couple of years back I had icing issues, the evaporator coil was full of cat hair. I carefully peeled it off, it was like cat hair fabfic.Icing issues went away .
THANK YOU. 🤟 😎🤜🤛
You're welcome brother
Lock comp seems to me is a lubrication problem it happen to me on a mini split the oil migrated to the evap
Low oil level cause friction and friction cause 2 things
Overheat
Seized
HVAC condenser gas leak repaired , system vacuum and r 22 liquid charged from high side . then scroll compressor ( ZR 380 ) started to gas charge .
but while gas charging motor protector cut off within 3 minute . suction 50 psig and discharge 200 psig.
checked condenser , fan motors, voltage 380 ( contactor out put ) amps ( 40 ) are ok . also motor protector replaced and checked but still same .
Please let me know what could be the reason .
Had a power outage last night so brief even the microwave oven clock didn't need to be reset. Power was off and on in a second. Now my ductless outdoor unit will not power on. The indoor heads are showing E6 error code. I've flipped the breaker for over an hour, but that has not helped. All A/C techs are maxed out with service calls. It's 85º out and I need some kind of guidance as to what to do.
Hi, the start winding drops out after compressor starts when a hard start kit is used. But, without a hard start kit does the start winding still drops out when using only the dual run capacitor? Thanks
By the use of a centrifical switch
Look up centrifugal switch on CZcams and Google
I have an issue with the compressor and fan shutting off after running about 15 minutes. It starts up fine when I call for cooling, the compressor and fan both come on and run for about 15 minutes. Then it stops blowing cold for a few minutes and then both the compressor and fan shut off. I have already replaced the start and run capacitors and the contactor. When the compressor shuts off I was thinking that it was an over heat protection but if I manually push in the plunger on the contactor the compressor and fan will come on and stay on as long as I hold in the plunger. If I let it sit for about 20-30 minutes, it will kick back on by itself but then shut off again after just a minute or so.
Aaron
I can definitely answer these questions
But not through the comments
I can do it through email or on the phone
You choose my friend
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if its shorted to ground does that mean you have a bad comp?
Yes that means the compressor is bad
What would make the compressor start and cool, but when it shuts off it won’t start bk up til it’s unplugged for 15mins or so?
does The unit have a run capacitor and a start capacitor or just a run capaster also is it starting backup after waiting 15 minutes or does it have to be unplugged
After the unit shuts off the pressure needs to equalize for the compressor to have a better start up
click the join button become a member I'll give you my email that'll lead to my phone number and you can send me some pictures I can help you
Wondering what the cause of your issue was? I just had a similar issue. The tech said he may have added a little bit too much refrigerant and this was the compressor to be overheating triggering. He came back and lowered refrigerant level and it hasn't been happening today (mid 80s outside). What I'm not understanding is that it really seemed like the problem was just a delayed start. It really seemed like the compressor (not just the fan motor inside condenser unit) was actually running until the thermostat stopped calling for cooling but that the compressor motor itself would not starting right away when thermostat called for cooling for next cycle, even though the fan was running. Wondering if the Thermal Overload can somehow get triggered shortly AFTER the compressor stops due to the fan no longer helping cool it off? That would explain the startup delay even though compressor kept running until thermostat stopped calling for cooling. It's certainly weird that it would get triggered after compressor stops, but that's what seemed to be occurring. The last couple times it happened it was around 6 to 8 minutes after it called for cooling to start up, so if it got trigged at start up I would expect it to take longer than that to cool off enough to reset itself.
Update, it happened today a couple times (warmer outside than yesterday). I lowered the thermostat setting to prove that it does in fact run continuously without anything causing it to shut off. If it's the thermal overload protector causing it to have the delayed startup, then either the temperature rises after shutoff somehow to trigger it, or it somehow quickly gets triggered at start up. Will try shutting it off for 8 to 10 minutes later when it gets back below 90 degrees and see if I can hear it trying to start-up if it doesn't start-up normally right away. I tried to get the tech to come back over today, but he likely won't be over until next week after the holiday.
Update #2: I had it at a lower than normal (for us) temperature and it ran continuously all afternoon long (around 5.5 hours) without anything shutting off the compressor motor the whole time. I determined (by standing in front of the condenser unit when the thermostat called for cooling) that whatever protective switch/relay is cutting off the power to the compressor is doing so at the time of start-up and not any time before that. I heard (and recorded on my phone) a gentle hum of the compressor motor trying to start up, and then a click and it stopped, and then the fan motor inside the condenser unit came on. Then a few minutes later I heard the compressor start up automatically on its own and stay on. Is this likely the thermal overload getting triggered at the time of start-up, and what could be causing it to happen? Could adding a time-delay before start-up (minimum of 10 minutes) be a way to prevent this from occurring? Would be nice if the tech could figure out the actual cause as to why it is still happening even after he reduced the refrigerant level.
If unit starts up, the capacitor is good enough to start up compressor and not the cause of compressor overheating. A bad capacitor will cause a stalled compressor with high locked rotor amperage compressor buzz. Compressor will get hot in a few minutes and overtemp protection Klixon in compressor will open, assuming main AC panel breaker does not pop open first.
It is important not to let compressor continue to overheat/shutoff/cool down/reset/attempt to start/overheat/shutdown over and over again. The Klixon overtemp protection switch is not super rugged and will eventually fail if subjected to repeated shutdowns and restart attempts. If internal Klixon fails, only option is to replace compressor since the Klixon is internal to the sealed compressor.
AC panel circuit breaker may not pop due to a locked rotor high amperage, non-startup condition, especially if wire run is long to breaker panel or too small gauge wire was used in the electrical wiring. Too high of amperage rating breaker can also cause this.
Klixon temp protector can open due to compressor high temperature, but it can also open due to high current that heats up its bi-metal contact arms. The later has a lot shorter trip/reset time since it does not involve the high mass temperature change of actual compressor mechanics. This is bad news for Klixon stressing for a simple bad run capacitor causing high current locked rotor condition.
Operationally, several things can cause compressor to overheat. First thing is check for air blockage, outside condenser and inside evaporator and air filter. Beyond that, have refrigerant pressures and line temps checked. Blockage in system, like stuck expansion valve or inline refrigerant filters. If an inline refrigerant filter is blocked there will usually be a noticeable temp drop across it. Low refrigerant can cause insufficient suction line gas return which is what cools compressor. A large amount of refrigerant over-charge can cause high liquid line pressure causing compressor to work harder. Overcharging results in more of the outside condenser coil being filled with liquid leaving less condenser coil area available to condense the hot gas from compressor. This results in greater compressor output pressure causing it to work harder. Too much refrigerant return on suction line will overfeed compressor causing compressor to work harder with a higher compression ratio.
Too low of outside temperature can cause liquid refrigerant to collect in compressor when it is off and flood compressor when it comes on, overloading compressor and possibly damaging it. Air conditioners and heat pumps in cooler climates usually have a compressor heating band at base of compressor to prevent refrigerant liquid from collecting in base of compressor. The heater turns any liquid refrigerant that collects in compressor into gas.
There are usually safety pressure switches also mounted on lines coming out of compressor that will shut down compressor when suction pressure gets too low or high side line pressure gets too high.
Hi could you please explain something to me. I have just seen a video where it is stated that a PTC is connected to the compressor and not a BiMetal thermal overload. Surely it can not be a PTC? Is this correct? czcams.com/video/P0JUUCEQl-U/video.html
Bad, two terminal test to be OL......