This maintenance procedure (Drive Chain Adjustment) it's easy but very important, you should take it serios if you don't want to damage your sprockets, your frame or your LIFE. Be sure to check also your manual provided by the producer and read it before you do this maintenance procedure, or use it in paralel with the informations provided in this video ! Make sure to check that you have all the necesary tools before you start adjusting the drive chain ! Do not ride your motorcycle if the slack exceeds 60mm (2.4 in) ! Use the right torque for tighten up the nuts (a Torque Key it's recomanded).
In my manual (spanish language) its especified to do this procedure with bike over the side stand. The measurements changes when bike is over central stand (wheel off the ground)??? I suggest you to check again the measures with motorcycle in side stand. Nice video. Sorry my poor english lol.
Hi there, I forget to mention that it was same measurements same slack on the side stand, also I was riding about 100 Km since the adjustment and it stayed the same, no modifications. Hope that helps, greetings!
Thumping the rear wheel forward with a lump hammer a few times before tightening the rear spindle is an excellent tip and makes sure everything is locked into place as told to me by a good friend (ex-GP mechanic). PS. On my NC dct chain slack on the centre stand is 40mm when 35mm on the side stand. You have produced a helpful video but the condition of your chain and sprocket is a worry.
Thanks this really is the best video in chain adjustment for this bike. Another tip I'd use would be to copper grease the adjuster screws as my last bike (BMW), they rusted broke off.
Great tip! This happened on my smaller Honda too! Ended up having to weld it together until a replacement part arrived! Can’t recommend this tip highly enough!
Different points on the chain doesn't matter. What matters is that the chain is in slack on the bottom and not in slack on the top (which would make it tighter on the bottom). You don't really have to worry if the bike is up on the center stand as the wheel should move freely to allow for the slack to move to where you pull it.
Great video buddy, Do not forget to check the front sprocket, that will take more of the wear and tear because of having less teeth than the rear sprocket. 17 teeth compared to 43 I think. If the front is fine then you could reasonably guess that the rear will be in good shape, and do not forget to clean that front sprocket when cleaning and lubricating the chain as well, that will help it last longer and keep your chain cleaner longer. Take care folks!🇨🇦🍻
I did , it was very dirty. 5 minute job. Still running good after 31,000 Km, the sprockets are ok but the chain its at the end of its life. Luckly I have bought a new kit, video comming soon !
It's written indeed "side stand" in the manual, I measure it it's same slack on both side and central stand. Comparing the measurements there were no difference. I will mention it on the description. Central standard does the job more easy and accurate in my opinion, It's better to still to measure the slack on both stands. Greetings!
I found the little windows with bars useless. They are way too crude for proper alignment. There is a fairly cheap tool for wheel alignment which will allow you to align the wheel really precisely.
Why did you adjust to 30, when it should be 35? (My original Honda chain lasted about 8K miles, replaced it and the sprockets with a better quality chain)
@@IdealBike it was adjusted on the center stand. On dead load, or side stand, those won't be 30mm but less!... Also, below the sticker with information about the slack, there's a roundy rubber marker, that's your reference point. 😊✌️ Take care, be safe!
Salut, am tot NC, metoda cu alinierea basculei dupa semnele cu linii, nu o consider 100% reala, si dupa ce am citit pe forumurile NC, iti recomand sa masori canturile la suruburi dreapta-stanga sau sa masori cu sublerul distanta intre capat surub distantier si bascula, in ambele parti, eu asa am uzual 22.3/7mm, NC750S DCT cu kit de ridicare 3.5mm si 37mm slack uzual, mi se pare compromisul ideal(bike :D) , bafta! Ps : masuratori pe cric lateral, nu am central, o sa incerc cu standerul sa vad unde este lantul mai strans si dupa ajustari pe cricul lateral. Ps2: 30mm nu este cam la limita de strans? Poti verifica cand te sui pe ea, fara cric si misti de lant, ar trebui sa ai macar un 20mm slack(sa nu fie tambal de rigid) pt suspensie/gropi, eu am distrus un set de transmisie asa, pt ca era lantul prea strans, mi-am invatat lectia.
Mulțumesc mult Tytus, asta voi face mâine și îți scriu aici rezultatul. Cu liniile mi s-a părut superbine, am reverificat de 3 ori. Voi măsura mâine după metoda ta și revin. Mulțumesc mult și baftă!
@@Tytus22 Am analizat foarte atent tot ceea ce mi-ai spus, am urmărit și videoclipul sugerat și am verificat și măsurătorile recomandate. Pot trage niște concluzii : - distanțele șuruburilor sunt perfect egale în ambele părți ale basculei după 200 Km de la reglaje - nu au apărut modificări ale lanțului (distanța de 30 mm a rămas la fel si cea de 35 mm în zona menționată) - în videoclipul sugerat liniile de ghidaj de pe basculă mi se par foarte largi la modelul prezentat în comparație cu cele apropiate de la NC, de aici și diferențele probabil, mi se par mai exacte și apropiate cele de la NC - 30mm nu mi se pare prea strâns din următorul motiv: dacă producătorul a indicat această marjă 30-40 mm înseamnă că în prealabil a ținut cont de anumiți parametrii, atât greutatea cât și eventualele denivelări etc. Prefer să am încredere în specificațiile manualului, nu or fi fost tâmpiți ăia de au dat aceste marje. Atâta timp cât reglajul lanțului se încadrează în acei parametrii nu îmi fac nici o problemă - înainte de a strânge piulița de 27mm am împins cele axe de ghidaj în așa fel încât capacele acelea mici arginti din capătul basculei să fie fixate perfect etanș la capăt, la fel si reglajul și piulița să fie în capăt, să nu fie larg capacul apoi să strâng și să rămână distanțe diferite... am împins până în capăt. Roata se învârte liberă ușor, nu înfrânată sau ceva de gen. Îți mulțumesc pentru sugestii, m-ai ajutat să reverific și să fiu sigur de montajul făcut. Multă baftă și mai aștept idei noi de la tine!
@@IdealBike finally i did it today, you are right.....both screws are connected so only right is enough.....learning by doing ....it was hard to measure exactly but I left little less than 2 fingers....i tested it, much better than 4 fingers which I had....thanks, great vid
@@IdealBike A nuts from the left and the right sides have a different sizes. 22 and 27. Are they both 98Nm, or smaller size got smaller torque as well ?
Thanks for the video, one question, the subject of the easel, does it matter? because I see you do it on the central stand and in my book it says to use the side stand. Is it important or does it not come from there? Because it's more comfortable on the central one... Thank you.
This maintenance procedure (Drive Chain Adjustment) it's easy but very important, you should take it serios if you don't want to damage your sprockets, your frame or your LIFE.
Be sure to check also your manual provided by the producer and read it before you do this maintenance procedure, or use it in paralel with the informations provided in this video !
Make sure to check that you have all the necesary tools before you start adjusting the drive chain ! Do not ride your motorcycle if the slack exceeds 60mm (2.4 in) ! Use the right torque for tighten up the nuts (a Torque Key it's recomanded).
the chain can be removed and put it in chain oil over night then it will be nearly as new
Thanks. I didn't even know about checking the slider. Great tutorial.
Me neither 😂 I just read the manual for this review, greetings!
I can’t find an arrow on either side of my slider? 🤷♂️
It should be, it's not painted it's somehow 3d printed
Very usefull video thanks for sharing!
Excellent
I didn't do this procedure before. Soon or later I will have to do this myself, so thank you :)
It's not to bad, took me about 30 minutes for my first few times
In my manual (spanish language) its especified to do this procedure with bike over the side stand. The measurements changes when bike is over central stand (wheel off the ground)???
I suggest you to check again the measures with motorcycle in side stand.
Nice video. Sorry my poor english lol.
Hi there, I forget to mention that it was same measurements same slack on the side stand, also I was riding about 100 Km since the adjustment and it stayed the same, no modifications. Hope that helps, greetings!
I can back up what Ideal Bike said, it makes absolutely no difference weather you measure on center stand or on side stand. Great tutorial 👍
Thanks for that, really helpful.
Thanks for the comment, greetings!
Thank you very much! Good content and crystal clear explanations.
Thanks a lot, appreciate it!
Very good explanation thanks
You are welcome! 👍
Great video, but one detail. You have rusty chain and sprocket, You should take care of it, otherwise it will with time damage both...
Hi Martin! Just after the review I cleaned the chain and lubricate it looks like new👌 It was rain and muddy these days... Greetings!
Another excellent video...good knowledge...
Appreciate your comment, kind regards, 🙏
Grate video easy steps to follow can have the video playing on my phone as I carry out the work 👍
Hehe, thanks and many greetings!
Many thanks, I have got the same bike and this video is just what i needed, great very usefull
Glad to hear that, greetings!
Thumping the rear wheel forward with a lump hammer a few times before tightening the rear spindle is an excellent tip and makes sure everything is locked into place as told to me by a good friend (ex-GP mechanic). PS. On my NC dct chain slack on the centre stand is 40mm when 35mm on the side stand. You have produced a helpful video but the condition of your chain and sprocket is a worry.
Hello, thanks for the comment, I sold my bike, the chain was replaced with a performance DID after 35,000 Km :)
I think when checking slack the read wheel needs to have weight on it...with weight the chain is slightly more tight.
Thanks this really is the best video in chain adjustment for this bike. Another tip I'd use would be to copper grease the adjuster screws as my last bike (BMW), they rusted broke off.
Thanks a lot, I appreciate it!
Great tip! This happened on my smaller Honda too! Ended up having to weld it together until a replacement part arrived! Can’t recommend this tip highly enough!
Thank you, appreciate it 🙏
Très bien pratique clair, vers good Thierry 17 France
Nice
Thanks !
Different points on the chain doesn't matter. What matters is that the chain is in slack on the bottom and not in slack on the top (which would make it tighter on the bottom). You don't really have to worry if the bike is up on the center stand as the wheel should move freely to allow for the slack to move to where you pull it.
Thanks for sharing 👍
i dont have a torque meter, should i just tight it with middle force or more stronger.....
Great video buddy,
Do not forget to check the front sprocket, that will take more of the wear and tear because of having less teeth than the rear sprocket. 17 teeth compared to 43 I think.
If the front is fine then you could reasonably guess that the rear will be in good shape, and do not forget to clean that front sprocket when cleaning and lubricating the chain as well, that will help it last longer and keep your chain cleaner longer.
Take care folks!🇨🇦🍻
I did , it was very dirty. 5 minute job. Still running good after 31,000 Km, the sprockets are ok but the chain its at the end of its life. Luckly I have bought a new kit, video comming soon !
Like!!!! 👍
Appreciate it!!! 🏍️💨💨💨
Is it actually necessary to use torque wrench when tightening nuts?
Not really at all... But it looks more professional 😉
Are you supposed to check on side stand as per manual?
Both side stand and on the bike without side stand... Better loose that too tight
Nice tutorial. I didn't see you use the 22mm sucket though. And didn't say anything about it. What was the 22mm sucket for?
Good observation, I usually use it just to hold it slightly with left hand, just to be able to hold the axel.
@@IdealBike Thank you.
hey my friend do you know how much Torque for 27 and 23 Nuk
Hello, 98 Nm, greetings
Manual says check chain on side stand.
It's written indeed "side stand" in the manual, I measure it it's same slack on both side and central stand. Comparing the measurements there were no difference. I will mention it on the description. Central standard does the job more easy and accurate in my opinion, It's better to still to measure the slack on both stands. Greetings!
Por favor comentar en español
I found the little windows with bars useless. They are way too crude for proper alignment. There is a fairly cheap tool for wheel alignment which will allow you to align the wheel really precisely.
Why did you adjust to 30, when it should be 35? (My original Honda chain lasted about 8K miles, replaced it and the sprockets with a better quality chain)
Because it was 35 on some points, and the specified limits in the manual are from 30mm to 40mm
Greetings
Ideal Bike Ah that makes sense :-)
@@IdealBike it was adjusted on the center stand. On dead load, or side stand, those won't be 30mm but less!...
Also, below the sticker with information about the slack, there's a roundy rubber marker, that's your reference point. 😊✌️
Take care, be safe!
😍👍
nooo, no, no, no ... not torque key ...lets say it together ... torque wrench ! ... happy to help anytime ... 😊
I am repeating already, Torc Renci...cu toate că în dicționar le zice cheie:
key, wrench, clue, clef... E și Key! 😉
Good vid and useful ...but clean your bike before
Thanks for the tip! 👍
Auzi.... Unde gasesc toolbox-ul?
Este în spațiul de depozitare sub acele cauciucuri într-o chestie gri.
Salut, am tot NC, metoda cu alinierea basculei dupa semnele cu linii, nu o consider 100% reala, si dupa ce am citit pe forumurile NC, iti recomand sa masori canturile la suruburi dreapta-stanga sau sa masori cu sublerul distanta intre capat surub distantier si bascula, in ambele parti, eu asa am uzual 22.3/7mm, NC750S DCT cu kit de ridicare 3.5mm si 37mm slack uzual, mi se pare compromisul ideal(bike :D) , bafta!
Ps : masuratori pe cric lateral, nu am central, o sa incerc cu standerul sa vad unde este lantul mai strans si dupa ajustari pe cricul lateral.
Ps2: 30mm nu este cam la limita de strans? Poti verifica cand te sui pe ea, fara cric si misti de lant, ar trebui sa ai macar un 20mm slack(sa nu fie tambal de rigid) pt suspensie/gropi, eu am distrus un set de transmisie asa, pt ca era lantul prea strans, mi-am invatat lectia.
Mulțumesc mult Tytus, asta voi face mâine și îți scriu aici rezultatul. Cu liniile mi s-a părut superbine, am reverificat de 3 ori. Voi măsura mâine după metoda ta și revin. Mulțumesc mult și baftă!
@@IdealBike K, np, am mai adaugat la comment.
czcams.com/video/4m9tdTN2OKo/video.html , include o metoda cu sublerul.
@@Tytus22 Am analizat foarte atent tot ceea ce mi-ai spus, am urmărit și videoclipul sugerat și am verificat și măsurătorile recomandate. Pot trage niște concluzii :
- distanțele șuruburilor sunt perfect egale în ambele părți ale basculei după 200 Km de la reglaje
- nu au apărut modificări ale lanțului (distanța de 30 mm a rămas la fel si cea de 35 mm în zona menționată)
- în videoclipul sugerat liniile de ghidaj de pe basculă mi se par foarte largi la modelul prezentat în comparație cu cele apropiate de la NC, de aici și diferențele probabil, mi se par mai exacte și apropiate cele de la NC
- 30mm nu mi se pare prea strâns din următorul motiv: dacă producătorul a indicat această marjă 30-40 mm înseamnă că în prealabil a ținut cont de anumiți parametrii, atât greutatea cât și eventualele denivelări etc. Prefer să am încredere în specificațiile manualului, nu or fi fost tâmpiți ăia de au dat aceste marje. Atâta timp cât reglajul lanțului se încadrează în acei parametrii nu îmi fac nici o problemă
- înainte de a strânge piulița de 27mm am împins cele axe de ghidaj în așa fel încât capacele acelea mici arginti din capătul basculei să fie fixate perfect etanș la capăt, la fel si reglajul și piulița să fie în capăt, să nu fie larg capacul apoi să strâng și să rămână distanțe diferite... am împins până în capăt.
Roata se învârte liberă ușor, nu înfrânată sau ceva de gen.
Îți mulțumesc pentru sugestii, m-ai ajutat să reverific și să fiu sigur de montajul făcut. Multă baftă și mai aștept idei noi de la tine!
did i miss something or you did not opet the left 22 screw, i just saw you opening the right one 27
I've just hold it to open the right 27 😊
@@IdealBike now, no joke...the other guy opened both :D, but i get your point, u think openening one screw is enough, doesnt matter which
I only open the right 27, it works for me, don't need to take our the wheel anyway
@@IdealBike finally i did it today, you are right.....both screws are connected so only right is enough.....learning by doing ....it was hard to measure exactly but I left little less than 2 fingers....i tested it, much better than 4 fingers which I had....thanks, great vid
Thanks, glad that helps!
Are you sure about a nut torque ? Is it realy 98Nm ? Not 92 ?
Specs are from the manual
@@IdealBike A nuts from the left and the right sides have a different sizes. 22 and 27. Are they both 98Nm, or smaller size got smaller torque as well ?
There it says 98Nm, for either, I'll double check it
@@IdealBike Спасибо за проверенную информацию !
There is a lot off brown on your sprocket.. more lubricant 🤨
Hello, yes of course, the video was done before cleaning and lubricating the chain and sprockets. Greetings!
Clean your bike please 😂
It's sold since 2 and a half years, it's very clean now 😂
another feckin POLE
Thanks for the video, one question, the subject of the easel, does it matter? because I see you do it on the central stand and in my book it says to use the side stand. Is it important or does it not come from there? Because it's more comfortable on the central one... Thank you.
If the measurment it's too tight on the central stand then it will be even more tighter on the side stand. So better cheeck both, greetings!