I called kicker with questions while installing mine and they told me about T-Taps for tapping into the factory wiring. Extremely easy and fast install with them.
I just ordered this sub. Hopefully it hits decent. I'm in a 2005 Tundra which has zero space for a subwoofer lol. Gonna try to get it under passenger front seat.
Go to wonder about someone who has a whole channel named after his truck and then does such a shoddy job installing equipment in the truck. 8/10 on the crudeness scale.
this was probably the best explanation of an installation setup and how you went about it, I also don’t know jack shit about wiring and i’ve never had someone speak in a way that I could actually understand the way you went about installation, thank you so much!!
I see this is a couple years old but for those doing a similar project; do everything he says except that you need to tap the front speaker to get the full bass signal. The rears get bass signal reduced as the volume goes up.
I spoke with someone from crutchfield who told me I should be ok tapping into rear speakers. He said that this was because I did not initially have a sub with the stock set up. He said because I have such a basic set up that there shouldnt be any filters on the rear and that I should be ok. Before I do it, I’m going hard on finding out what is the truth lol. Do you know of its ever possible to tap into rears based on what your stock system set up was?
Lemme just chime in guys, what's the sub feel like? What's it osund like? It's a 10" so you can't expect much. It won't shatter glass and bounce the roof. Buttt, I have headphones with ridiculous bass in em, and I can feel some good thumps from his video. A 10" will have anice quality sound and some added bass sound and feel in your ear/chest but it isn't downright disrespectful.
excellent timing. I'm doing a Cerwin vega vpas12 12" powered sub that fits behind the backseat. I'm also installing a kicker key smart amp that auto-tunes the sound and powers all the tweeters and midrange. I'm installing a lci2 active lineout converter that should fix that horrible factory bass roll-off ford does. It should be a vast improvement. thanks for this
They make a WPT 1212 wiring harness that you can plug into the factory one that’s behind the left rear seat panel you can get it on Amazon for $20 or At the Ford dealership for $60
So I’m looking at putting this into my 2018 F-150 Supercrew do I need anything additionally or is the kicker harness wiring long enough? And will I need a line output converter?
The F150's have a harness behind the seat already for factury sub. You can buy a plug in harness that gives signal and 20A fused power. Way easier than running any wires. In my XLT I just needed to activate the connector via Forscan.
@@tbarnes00 I did it myself, its been a while, but I think the software is free and runs on a simple laptop, just needs a little OBDII to USB adapter, cheap on Amazon
Noob here but desperately trying to upgrade the sound on my new Bronco.. Do you recommend adding a separate amp for this sub? Even thought it come with one already?
Not sure if this has been asked already, but should the connections for the left and right door speakers be made to the fronts as opposed to the rears? I've heard that the rears have a high pass filter at 80 hz so you should tap the fronts instead.
What am I doing wrong, I don’t have a direct plug in for the rca leaders so iv spliced the 4 wires to left and right speakers, it works but is to basey to the point iv turned the sub power to min and sterio base to min?
@wickedf150 i just ordered one for my 16' for under 300$ : ) thanks so much for this review/install... believe it or not i could hear the bass with my headphones.. question where did you have the setting for the remote during the sound test and also ... where did you end up putting the remote? thanks!!!!
I’m gonna do this same sub in my ‘18 XLT SCREW .....but I’m gonna use the 1212 harness that you can buy and wire the Kicker harness to it so that it is an all factory hookup without tapping/splicing wires and running wires through the firewall.....the plug that the 1212 goes to in my truck is behind the panel on the drivers side next to the rear seat....did your truck have the plug as well?
No it did not sadly. I originally bought the harness n everything to do that but I guess half way through 19 ford stopped putting the harness back there on trucks that didn't actually come with the sub
I’m really wanting to buy one of these but I’m not an expert at wiring. The part I’m worried about is locating the rear speaker wires. I have a 2012 Harley Davidson edition F-150. It has the factory Sony 700 watt sub but it doesn’t hit hard enough. Does anyone know if I can tie into those wires? Or does anyone know where I can find the wiring colors of the positive/negative right and left side speakers?
I just got this same sub and trying to decide whether to go under the passenger front seat or in the rear behind the seat like you have it. Why didn’t you go with under the passenger front seat?
so you've had this for a bit. Do you have any issues with the signal cutting out/off and then suddenly back on? I got the 8" version, and it seems to be intermitantly doing that at certain volumes/settings. Trying to figure out the best gain/bass boost/crossover setting for my system, or if its defective.
No i haven't had any issues. When you first installed it did you set your volume to 3/4max and adjust gain from there? Try to switch the frequency button on the sub as well then
@@WICKEDAUTO1 yeah, i followed the usual advice when tuning a sub, and it still kept doing this weird cut off thing. I assume its protecting itself from blowing out, or maybe i had a bad one because i read other people had the same issue. I returned it, but may wanna try the 10" when its back in stock. Thanks, tho!
Love my F150, but like many other vehicles on the market, the factory radio is just terrible. Unfortunately, replacing the head unit really isn't the best option in many cases as it's an integrated module that does a lot more than just play music. I have other modifications to tend to before I get to the stereo, but when the time comes, I'm probably gonna go the route of a digital signal processor and pretty much remake the entire system. I'm not sure if there's an aftermarket head unit available that not only offers line level outputs, but also has full factory functions and integrates with the backup camera. Anything that would eliminate the radio or climate control knobs would be out of the question. To each their own, but I can't stand digital radio or climate controls.
Can't wait till companies figure that out and just start using aftermarket radios from the get go or the ones like joying that's basically a tablet that the customers can customize however they want through mobile hotspotting
I dont know man I wouldnt tap into your speakers for signal. I seems like it worked ok though but couldnt you cause damage if you supply 12 volt to your speakers because their volume is up, rca inputs are only made for 0.5 - 4 volts.
@@WICKEDAUTO1 Yea I know, but signal is low voltage, when I turn my speakers up full im reading around 10 volt ac per speaker. For example if I turn my sub amplifier up all the was im at about 40 volts.
@kurtis I believe that if using the high input instead of rca plugs this specific model has a auto on function so you don’t have to run the low voltage remote wire(I could’ve read the information wrong, just my 2¢). Other wise on the kicker website they say it has FIT+ technology accepting input signals ranging from 0.25 volt to as high as 40 volts. Hope this was helpful
Okay dude... I am wanting some better bass in my 15 F150. I think I may go this route. I have some Infinity Kappa 93IX 6x9s arriving from Crutchfield today that I plan on changing out ASAP. However, I want some sub bass also. I have toyed around with some under seat subs but I think I like the idea of behind the seat better. Is that a Rhino head unit you have there? That looks awesome. Thanks man.
@Bobby have a look on the amplifier for a switch that says: lpf-full-hpf. Lpf (low pass frequency) is the one that you want for bass only and you should be able to adjust a dial to set the range of sound it lets pass through the amp to the sub. (Personally I set mine to around 80-90Hz, higher than that I find the mid range bass from people’s voices starts to come through a little too much) hope this helped
Edit: I don’t have this model, I was doing research on it and reading through comments. My advice goes for majority of amplifiers, I am unsure wether the kicker has this feature.
Behind that panel where your wires went is the factory plug for amplifier and sub output... Just need the pigtail for it to connect the sub to it... czcams.com/video/BqKbT50IN1A/video.html
WOW!! install is a laaarrge stretch .. this was an "explanation" at best .. at least you like it . But feels like you just wanted to get a video out . Good luck man.
Like I said, I had planned to show but when it didn't work I don't want to show the wrong way to do something. Figured it out quickly instead of more work as I thought it would be and it is a great inexpensive upgrade so absolutely want to show it.
I called kicker with questions while installing mine and they told me about T-Taps for tapping into the factory wiring. Extremely easy and fast install with them.
T taps are fast and easy, but reliable they are not.
T-taps are pretty horrible. I've seen tons of problems with them. Only use them if its you're only option.
This will work awesome for my single cab Silverado, thanks man!
Did you ever get one for your Chevy? I'm curious to know if it would fit under the front seat of a '16+...
I just ordered this sub. Hopefully it hits decent. I'm in a 2005 Tundra which has zero space for a subwoofer lol. Gonna try to get it under passenger front seat.
How’d it go?
How does it sound?
We need an update
An install video that doesn't actually show how to install anything? Maybe just change the title to call it a review.
You just saved me from wasting my time watching... Hate when title misleads you
Go to wonder about someone who has a whole channel named after his truck and then does such a shoddy job installing equipment in the truck. 8/10 on the crudeness scale.
Thanks for posting super great detail on this. And from what it sounds like it will work perfect in my Avalanche! Thanks again!!
These all in one powered hideaway / spare tire subs are amazing for what they are and they are enough or too much bass for the majority of people.
this was probably the best explanation of an installation setup and how you went about it, I also don’t know jack shit about wiring and i’ve never had someone speak in a way that I could actually understand the way you went about installation, thank you so much!!
Holy crap arm chair critics, sometimes things don't work out, thanks been wondering about an amp myself.
I see this is a couple years old but for those doing a similar project; do everything he says except that you need to tap the front speaker to get the full bass signal. The rears get bass signal reduced as the volume goes up.
I spoke with someone from crutchfield who told me I should be ok tapping into rear speakers. He said that this was because I did not initially have a sub with the stock set up. He said because I have such a basic set up that there shouldnt be any filters on the rear and that I should be ok. Before I do it, I’m going hard on finding out what is the truth lol. Do you know of its ever possible to tap into rears based on what your stock system set up was?
In my Tacoma,I also found that tapping into the front speakers sends clearer bass to the sub.
Sounds amazing 👏
If the subwoofer rca output already had something plugged in, you can run the rcas to the rear rca output.
It was prob hooked up to the factory sub input which he would have unplugged and ran to his new sub
Good review cheers man. I’m looking at the hs10 for my Ute
What speaker did you tap into, the stock Sony sub I hope
Lemme just chime in guys, what's the sub feel like? What's it osund like?
It's a 10" so you can't expect much. It won't shatter glass and bounce the roof.
Buttt, I have headphones with ridiculous bass in em, and I can feel some good thumps from his video.
A 10" will have anice quality sound and some added bass sound and feel in your ear/chest but it isn't downright disrespectful.
excellent timing. I'm doing a Cerwin vega vpas12 12" powered sub that fits behind the backseat. I'm also installing a kicker key smart amp that auto-tunes the sound and powers all the tweeters and midrange. I'm installing a lci2 active lineout converter that should fix that horrible factory bass roll-off ford does. It should be a vast improvement. thanks for this
18
@@danielaylward3415 18?
if you have issues with tuning the key, let me know. If you are power a set of components, use it in the Bi-amp mode. works awesome! jmyers@kicker.com
Can you still flip the rear seat up with sub behind the seat so you have all your floor space?
They make a WPT 1212 wiring harness that you can plug into the factory one that’s behind the left rear seat panel you can get it on Amazon for $20 or At the Ford dealership for $60
They do not as half way through 2019 they stopped putting the factory plug back there. Pretty sure I said that in the video if you actually watched it
I’m thinking about putting two of them where the factory subs are in my Supra.
Thanks for the input!
For my application, it was more helpful to think of that blue wire as an accessory or ignition-switched +12v.
Thabks for the vid, would you say that the bass sound its similar or as good as the one your at4 has from factory?
Thanks! Also, where’d you get that truck mat tho? 😍😍 need one for my truck
I dig the gun magnet lol
Does it feel like a Raptor with those 3 lights in the grill?
So I’m looking at putting this into my 2018 F-150 Supercrew do I need anything additionally or is the kicker harness wiring long enough? And will I need a line output converter?
Can you drop a link for your mats please?
Great review! Thanks
What is plugged into your sub out? On my cd player I have to turn the sub out on. Maybe yours is the same.
nice vid, thanks for the insight.
I thought it was an 8" woofer, did they come out with a 10" version?
Yes! It's called the kicker hs10, same dimensions as the 8 inch version
The F150's have a harness behind the seat already for factury sub. You can buy a plug in harness that gives signal and 20A fused power. Way easier than running any wires. In my XLT I just needed to activate the connector via Forscan.
Where do you get that harness from?
@@edgar4406 amazon
How much did it cost to get the dealer to activate it with forscan?
@@tbarnes00 I did it myself, its been a while, but I think the software is free and runs on a simple laptop, just needs a little OBDII to USB adapter, cheap on Amazon
@@zacklundgren oh sweet. I’ll have to look into it. Is it hard to find that plug in forscan? Or is it a search and find type program ?
Have you tried placing the SUB face up on the floor and see if it sounds better or nịt. Thnx
Just curious if I can run two of these if it’s not much of a kick?
is this the same process for a Silverado 1500? great video by the way
It would be yes but not sure what the wires would be to tap into the rear speakers
Do you think 2 would be overkill? I’m not trying to go deaf either. Left that mind set in my younger 20’s! 😂 Great video by the way! 🙌🏼
I may have missed this in the video but where did you tap in power? How did you route the 12 volt wire?
Thanks for making this helpful video 👍🏻
Noob here but desperately trying to upgrade the sound on my new Bronco.. Do you recommend adding a separate amp for this sub? Even thought it come with one already?
Not sure if this has been asked already, but should the connections for the left and right door speakers be made to the fronts as opposed to the rears? I've heard that the rears have a high pass filter at 80 hz so you should tap the fronts instead.
It depends on the vehicle but yes you will want to use whatever speaker is getting a full signal
My man does your bass knob only control the sub and not your door speakers? if not, is there anyway you can set it to only control the sub
Thx
Hey what are ur adjustments for gain and bass boost like?
What am I doing wrong, I don’t have a direct plug in for the rca leaders so iv spliced the 4 wires to left and right speakers, it works but is to basey to the point iv turned the sub power to min and sterio base to min?
🎉 u grounding to an aluminum body?
I need that for my wife’s Buick Enclave
Which head unit is that? And how is it powering the speakers? I had an android screen in my accord and the speakers would distort?
@wickedf150 i just ordered one for my 16' for under 300$ : ) thanks so much for this review/install... believe it or not i could hear the bass with my headphones.. question where did you have the setting for the remote during the sound test and also ... where did you end up putting the remote? thanks!!!!
I just ran it behind the dash and put it in that little cubby piece by your right foot. I didn't screw it in or anything just laid it in there for now
Where did you get it for under $300? Are you talking the 10inch or 8 inch hideaway?
LeBoo's Leisure @stage3motorsports but they had a 15% off deal got it for 297 ... I won’t get it till June tho
10”
Where did you end up mounting the remote knob?
What do you have ur gain on actual sub at?
thanks bub
I’m gonna do this same sub in my ‘18 XLT SCREW .....but I’m gonna use the 1212 harness that you can buy and wire the Kicker harness to it so that it is an all factory hookup without tapping/splicing wires and running wires through the firewall.....the plug that the 1212 goes to in my truck is behind the panel on the drivers side next to the rear seat....did your truck have the plug as well?
No it did not sadly. I originally bought the harness n everything to do that but I guess half way through 19 ford stopped putting the harness back there on trucks that didn't actually come with the sub
@@WICKEDAUTO1 ok that’s what I heard too but wasn’t sure. Thanks man
Where can I get those floor mats/covers you have?
You really need to tap into the front door speakers for the signal to your sub. The rear door speakers don’t have full signal.
why dont they? rears are where you want to go for a subwoofer amp
@@Simracing25 because most factory systems only have full frequency output to the fronts and the rears don’t have the lower frequencies.
I’m really wanting to buy one of these but I’m not an expert at wiring. The part I’m worried about is locating the rear speaker wires. I have a 2012 Harley Davidson edition F-150. It has the factory Sony 700 watt sub but it doesn’t hit hard enough. Does anyone know if I can tie into those wires? Or does anyone know where I can find the wiring colors of the positive/negative right and left side speakers?
What the name of the head unit
What mats are those
I just got this same sub and trying to decide whether to go under the passenger front seat or in the rear behind the seat like you have it. Why didn’t you go with under the passenger front seat?
just to keep it out of the way
How did you mount the sub
How is this holding up so far? Thinking about getting one for my ‘23 tremor. The B&O sounds ok but lacks bass
What setting le are you running on yours mines weak
Did your truck originally have a sub? Or did you just have the basic 6 speaker set up?
No sub, basic system until I added this one
When someone is behind you with their high beams, and they wont get over. That is this guy. D bag.
so you've had this for a bit. Do you have any issues with the signal cutting out/off and then suddenly back on? I got the 8" version, and it seems to be intermitantly doing that at certain volumes/settings. Trying to figure out the best gain/bass boost/crossover setting for my system, or if its defective.
No i haven't had any issues. When you first installed it did you set your volume to 3/4max and adjust gain from there? Try to switch the frequency button on the sub as well then
@@WICKEDAUTO1 yeah, i followed the usual advice when tuning a sub, and it still kept doing this weird cut off thing. I assume its protecting itself from blowing out, or maybe i had a bad one because i read other people had the same issue. I returned it, but may wanna try the 10" when its back in stock. Thanks, tho!
What radio is that?
Just bought one at Best Buy had it install love my
Love my F150, but like many other vehicles on the market, the factory radio is just terrible. Unfortunately, replacing the head unit really isn't the best option in many cases as it's an integrated module that does a lot more than just play music. I have other modifications to tend to before I get to the stereo, but when the time comes, I'm probably gonna go the route of a digital signal processor and pretty much remake the entire system. I'm not sure if there's an aftermarket head unit available that not only offers line level outputs, but also has full factory functions and integrates with the backup camera. Anything that would eliminate the radio or climate control knobs would be out of the question. To each their own, but I can't stand digital radio or climate controls.
Can't wait till companies figure that out and just start using aftermarket radios from the get go or the ones like joying that's basically a tablet that the customers can customize however they want through mobile hotspotting
There is stuff that utilizes the factory backup camera
I dont know man I wouldnt tap into your speakers for signal. I seems like it worked ok though but couldnt you cause damage if you supply 12 volt to your speakers because their volume is up, rca inputs are only made for 0.5 - 4 volts.
Not sure what you mean 12volts, its just speaker wire to speaker wire. The actual power for the sub/amp is to the battery
@@WICKEDAUTO1 Yea I know, but signal is low voltage, when I turn my speakers up full im reading around 10 volt ac per speaker. For example if I turn my sub amplifier up all the was im at about 40 volts.
@kurtis I believe that if using the high input instead of rca plugs this specific model has a auto on function so you don’t have to run the low voltage remote wire(I could’ve read the information wrong, just my 2¢). Other wise on the kicker website they say it has FIT+ technology accepting input signals ranging from 0.25 volt to as high as 40 volts. Hope this was helpful
Did you change out the door speakers?
No
That’s a must … the rear 6.5s especially. Probably the cheapest factory speakers I’ve ever seen. Pathetic
What is that below your trailer control?
Thats a gun magnet, by keeper. I 3m tapped it instead of screwing it in but has been there since July last year and holds my full size sig perfectly
What kind of floor mats are those?
Divineshield, link in description
I can't stand Kicker. They sound so darn flat. I'd love to see JL Audio make a hideaway sub box.
Can 2 of these kickers fit?
I don't doubt it actually
Okay dude... I am wanting some better bass in my 15 F150. I think I may go this route. I have some Infinity Kappa 93IX 6x9s arriving from Crutchfield today that I plan on changing out ASAP. However, I want some sub bass also. I have toyed around with some under seat subs but I think I like the idea of behind the seat better. Is that a Rhino head unit you have there? That looks awesome. Thanks man.
Cerwin Vega has a 12
What floor mats are those?
divineshield on Amazon, link in the description
@@WICKEDAUTO1 Thanks. I found it but looks like they don't make them anymore.
If Affliction was a truck lol
Ok installed oem kicker sub in my truck turned it on with forscan it works but I hear vocal out of it , I used factory harness to ?
@Bobby have a look on the amplifier for a switch that says: lpf-full-hpf. Lpf (low pass frequency) is the one that you want for bass only and you should be able to adjust a dial to set the range of sound it lets pass through the amp to the sub. (Personally I set mine to around 80-90Hz, higher than that I find the mid range bass from people’s voices starts to come through a little too much) hope this helped
Edit: I don’t have this model, I was doing research on it and reading through comments. My advice goes for majority of amplifiers, I am unsure wether the kicker has this feature.
Behind that panel where your wires went is the factory plug for amplifier and sub output... Just need the pigtail for it to connect the sub to it...
czcams.com/video/BqKbT50IN1A/video.html
Noo your wrong, sorry. Starting at some point in 2019 ford stopped including the factory plug.
Does the sub allow the seat to folded up?
yes it still folds up
@@WICKEDAUTO1 nice, thank you!
WOW!! install is a laaarrge stretch .. this was an "explanation" at best .. at least you like it . But feels like you just wanted to get a video out . Good luck man.
Like I said, I had planned to show but when it didn't work I don't want to show the wrong way to do something. Figured it out quickly instead of more work as I thought it would be and it is a great inexpensive upgrade so absolutely want to show it.
This is more like a review 🤷♂️