This is the first visual demonstration I have found of how expo works. I understood the theory just fine, but sometimes seeing is believing. Well done, sir!
The "opposite" can be done with expo. Increase, cyclic and rudder response if you program "negative" expo. Only if you are advanced with precise finger control and reflexes. Otherwise, dumbing it down is the way to go with expo. Flying RC helicopter requires a "frenzy" of stick motion especially with cyclic stick. The advice of "small precise movement" only applies to airplanes, because there is no "groove" when flying a heli.
Another "must read" !!! I got my 230s Smart in a good place with both mechanical setup and calibration. Basic tuning with very little done has made it predictable and solid. My 150s Smart is almost there too, just a little more fiddling and it will be solid But the Fusion 180 Smart is a different beast. I have done a lot of with the basics. Still would feel a little disconnect, not solid, kind floaty. Been messing with the PID tuning, mostly P and I, nothing with D. I think your explanation will help. Belt driven tail has me learning though....thanks again for the video.
Thank you very much for this tutorial. As I see, you are fun to the Blade heli. I have experience only with Blade 150FX. Then I buy M1 from OMP. Now, one of my friend offer me Blade 330. Aginst to OMP M4. Do you have some recomendation for the begginer, who strats with small heli and want to buy something bigger? Is it better buy something like 220 (M2) od go to the 380 and higher level directli? I havent experience with bigger heli then with 300mm rotor diameter
Ok I have a Fw200 and this is my first Heli and want to start trying to fly on manual. What should do first to help with the controls as I am on the RTF controller. I was thinking turning head speed down but that’s all I can really do I think.
Oh for sure. It was just a minor point really and don't think i said but of course on the better ones you're looking at things like quad bearings over bushings too. Maybe some basic transmitters can't be adjusted too. I know the DXe actually can though yeah
I just bought the 330S RTF version and tried to fly yesterday, but could not even take off. As soon as I start slowly giving it throttle it starts leaning to the right and if it just starts to lift off the blades hit the ground. I will start trying to figure it out, but your video should be a help. Thanks
Ok cool good luck. Make sure it's level when plugging in battery especially when using self levelling. Check was swash plate is level after power up and all servos look centred. Maybe gyro the fbl needs calibrating too but the manual might talk about these things too.
That's what happen to me. After got some adviced tht auto travel of the sevro was wrongly set. Then found out the travel of the servo arm after initial setup after plug in the power. Then checking the travel of the servo arm that should be reverse direction force position when the body was lean to the left, the left servo arm should move up to correct tile back to its original position of heli perpendicular to the ground. In the same to reflect action, if lean heli to the right, right servo arm should move up makes the swatch plate level back to reflect the action of lean to the right. Then tail up/down. Servo arm should move to the position to make the swatch plate level back to its same original level to the ground position. 》What I found out in my, was the setting of the control gyro box position was select in the wrong opposite direcrtion. Makes the heli try to lean to the side then blade hit the ground every time try to take off, and lost 4 pair blade to figured this out. 》The old good flying setting changed by itself of left no fly for years.
Great presentation. Flying a helicopter is heady stuff. Most videos are overly presumptive, which is never helpful. Clearer explanations make for fewer crashes.
@@RCStuffvideosThanks for your advice I`m still flying Real Flight. I ordered a E-Flite Blade 230S SMART and a OMPHobby M1. your video how to make curves opened my eyes that was a really good video I flew my first circles and 8 figures after seeing your video and that was very satisfying and that without university education hey 😆🤣
@@jentjedragonfly yeah drone man is right too. I was also going to add that although don't for getting started, just having 6 channels night limit what you can fly in the future.
Thank you for this. My blade 230sv2 which now MH main frame coming 80$ more lol purposes like a dolphin. Lower pitch tiny help, but it’s annoying . Any advice ? Reduced battery it calms down. Maybe the upgraded motor. 2526/4500 believe. Next move back stock motor . Stock pinion. One thing I had it mid stick ready to pop smooth as glass, still bogs
Mine is completely stock and it porpoises too. Think there's something about the design. Probably because it's small. Ues it is annoying isn't it. How much pitch are you using? What curves?
@@RCStuffvideos all stock setting from manual. I just got MH main Frame today. I have MH SERVOS too. Only thing stock left is Ar636b, ESC, tail motor. I did have this thing flying rock solid been going crazy over this dolphin/bogging for while. I just had it manageable other night but then it hit hard upwards during trim n crashed . So decided to buy the frame. I tried switching back to stock gear too. I love OWB setup so going back to that . I’m new to the hobby fairly new still. I have dx6 gen 3 tx . I just lowered pitch in normal mode down few points couple times , but was getting sluggish. Really frustrating all seems perfect spoiling up for trim flight mid stick sits still n blades tracking amazing, just once pop it up get going it will do that dolphin bogging driving me insane !!! Thinking maybe replacing the FBL with mini ikon 2 or soemthifn . I dunno cause I’m invested now n I have to figure this out, maybe , maybe not. I don’t wanna have to fight the heli. Maybe it’s the RKH mail rotor head. Even though I had that on pretty solid too. Thinking the bogging up n down was head or the collars on shaft I adjusted played around n nothing . Gets better n lowering pitch a tad helped tiny bit, but still annoying . I dunno gonna keep at it and hopefully by end of weekend I’ll have the frame together n give another go. I’ve done so many different things . Stock parts back on. Just got another pair of MH blade grips . List goes on n no. Tried bk to my dx6-I . Anyway you ever figure yours out please give me some insight . Any advice appreciated sorry for the book
@@jtkeys7618 haha that's okay mate. My mindset would be if you want something flying amazing you'll probably have to get something a bot bigger and better to be honest. If i did manage to sort ot I'll let you know but i have a trex 470 now l I'll be flying soon.
I’ve been trying to just get a good solid hover like I had it, n that dolphin affect I have it hovering but it will pop n bounce &makes that distinct noise n gets away from me a little . Landing it too bouncy . I just don’t wanna fly it like that. Gonna go bk stock motor next, the swap the FBL out of that don’t work. Not giving up ( just yet ) lol thx for reply n your way more advanced than me just by watching your video which is great and thx again for that . Gonna watch it few more times lol take care happy flying ( in my case hair ripping out my head flying ) haaa
if you are going to explain pid. then don't say bullsh*t people google was PID tuning is. it's something that people do to fine tune servo motors and heating devices. basicly you are telling a servo motor to move x amount. and with pid tuning you will tell the software how HARD/FAST it needs to correct (so apply more or less voltage). how much it needs to anticipate approaching it's final position and thus slow down to be able to stop exactly where you told it to. and how hard it needs to try and hold that position. (it could move to position and go full voltage trying to hold it there. or basicly drop all power and hope it just stays there on it's own) you heard his helicopter make a whining sound when he was showing us the angle of the dual rates right? yeah that's servo whining. that means this guy has no goddamn clue what pid tuning is and how it's supposed to be done. google it. because this is just a really quick and dirty explaination. it's not even in the right order. (also you are not directly programming the servo's you are programming the flight controller in relation to it's gyro readings.) to anyone reading this right now. i advise not watching any of this youtuber's video's. i had to complain like this in a another video aswel. he doesn't know half of what he's talking about most of the times. and you will probbably mess something up if you follow his advice.
lol ok mate. I never said I was a top expert or anything or even explained PID the best it was a very brief explainer. Tell me objectively ehich bit was incorrect? Also you were wrong on your other comment about orientations, Far more experienced people than me advise going tail in.
@@RCStuffvideos not an expert was verry clear. just like one of your beginner tips being "if you get disoriented. go tail in" b*tch if someone is disoriented. how the HELL is he supposed to know wich was is tail in. that's like saying "when you are on fire. don't be"
Bitch? Don't be rude or. I'll just ignore you? It's pretty obvious. As i said. You move the tail control until you see the tail is pointing towards you. No one else seems to struggle with this.
This is the first visual demonstration I have found of how expo works. I understood the theory just fine, but sometimes seeing is believing. Well done, sir!
Thanks Tim glad you liked it. Happy flying.
The "opposite" can be done with expo. Increase, cyclic and rudder response if you program "negative" expo. Only if you are advanced with precise finger control and reflexes. Otherwise, dumbing it down is the way to go with expo. Flying RC helicopter requires a "frenzy" of stick motion especially with cyclic stick. The advice of "small precise movement" only applies to airplanes, because there is no "groove" when flying a heli.
I agree with Tim, this is the first easy to understand video on D/R and Expo settings for beginners! Thank you!
My pleasure thanks for the comment.
I am a quad beginner and found this video explained PID concepts clearer than they do in the quad world. Thank you
Great thanks
Another "must read" !!! I got my 230s Smart in a good place with both mechanical setup and calibration. Basic tuning with very little done has made it predictable and solid.
My 150s Smart is almost there too, just a little more fiddling and it will be solid
But the Fusion 180 Smart is a different beast. I have done a lot of with the basics. Still would feel a little disconnect, not solid, kind floaty. Been messing with the PID tuning, mostly P and I, nothing with D. I think your explanation will help. Belt driven tail has me learning though....thanks again for the video.
Cheers eric!
Excellent Video. Wish I had this a couple years ago. Very clear and to the point. Thanks.
Thanks you sir, you just saved me alot of time. Straight to the point. That's what I like.
Glad it helped!
WoW everything I was wondering about. Thanks Great Job
Awesome. Thanks for the comment glad you liked it.
I could have done with this video a few years back! Great explanation, well done.
Thanks!
Excellent information! Thank you! 👍
My pleasure. Glad you liked it.
Thank you very much for this tutorial. As I see, you are fun to the Blade heli. I have experience only with Blade 150FX. Then I buy M1 from OMP. Now, one of my friend offer me Blade 330. Aginst to OMP M4. Do you have some recomendation for the begginer, who strats with small heli and want to buy something bigger? Is it better buy something like 220 (M2) od go to the 380 and higher level directli? I havent experience with bigger heli then with 300mm rotor diameter
Thanks man good vid
Thanks!
I appreciate ure teaching
Thanks
Ok I have a Fw200 and this is my first Heli and want to start trying to fly on manual. What should do first to help with the controls as I am on the RTF controller. I was thinking turning head speed down but that’s all I can really do I think.
Hello don't know anything about the fw200 but use a bit more expo and try lower rates so controls move a bit less.
Well done
just an FYI you can mechanically adjust the stick tension etc to your liking.
Oh for sure. It was just a minor point really and don't think i said but of course on the better ones you're looking at things like quad bearings over bushings too. Maybe some basic transmitters can't be adjusted too. I know the DXe actually can though yeah
I just bought the 330S RTF version and tried to fly yesterday, but could not even take off. As soon as I start slowly giving it throttle it starts leaning to the right and if it just starts to lift off the blades hit the ground. I will start trying to figure it out, but your video should be a help. Thanks
Ok cool good luck. Make sure it's level when plugging in battery especially when using self levelling. Check was swash plate is level after power up and all servos look centred. Maybe gyro the fbl needs calibrating too but the manual might talk about these things too.
That's what happen to me.
After got some adviced tht auto travel of the sevro was wrongly set.
Then found out the travel of the servo arm after initial setup after plug in the power.
Then checking the travel of the servo arm that should be reverse direction force position when the body was lean to the left, the left servo arm should move up to correct tile back to its original position of heli perpendicular to the ground.
In the same to reflect action, if lean heli to the right, right servo arm should move up makes the swatch plate level back to reflect the action of lean to the right. Then tail up/down.
Servo arm should move to the position to make the swatch plate level back to its same original level to the ground position.
》What I found out in my, was the setting of the control gyro box position was select in the wrong opposite direcrtion.
Makes the heli try to lean to the side then blade hit the ground every time try to take off, and lost 4 pair blade to figured this out.
》The old good flying setting changed by itself of left no fly for years.
👍👍👍
motor too slow in Mode 0 how up it?
Excellent teaching. Thanks so much!
Great presentation. Flying a helicopter is heady stuff. Most videos are overly presumptive, which is never helpful. Clearer explanations make for fewer crashes.
Awesome thanks man. Happy flying!
will echine e6 transmitter work on my echine e120 rc heli
I'm not sure I'm afraid.
Can u do a video on fw200 setup whit nx10
Sorry. I don't have either of those.
Yup,the RTF transmitters are crap!
He Man Thank for the nice video. And is the Spektrum DX6e a good transmitter to start with? I`m going to order one as soon as it`s back in stock
Yeah sure that'll be great. What you flying now? What do you want to fly in the future? Happy flying
Go with a nx8 that will give you plenty of room to grow.
@@RCStuffvideosThanks for your advice I`m still flying Real Flight. I ordered a E-Flite Blade 230S SMART and a OMPHobby M1. your video how to make curves opened my eyes that was a really good video I flew my first circles and 8 figures after seeing your video and that was very satisfying and that without university education hey 😆🤣
@@DronemanJoeRc Thanks for thinking along. I will let my dealer advise me.
@@jentjedragonfly yeah drone man is right too. I was also going to add that although don't for getting started, just having 6 channels night limit what you can fly in the future.
Thank you for this. My blade 230sv2 which now MH main frame coming 80$ more lol purposes like a dolphin. Lower pitch tiny help, but it’s annoying . Any advice ? Reduced battery it calms down. Maybe the upgraded motor. 2526/4500 believe. Next move back stock motor . Stock pinion. One thing I had it mid stick ready to pop smooth as glass, still bogs
Mine is completely stock and it porpoises too. Think there's something about the design. Probably because it's small. Ues it is annoying isn't it. How much pitch are you using? What curves?
@@RCStuffvideos all stock setting from manual. I just got MH main Frame today. I have MH SERVOS too. Only thing stock left is Ar636b, ESC, tail motor. I did have this thing flying rock solid been going crazy over this dolphin/bogging for while. I just had it manageable other night but then it hit hard upwards during trim n crashed . So decided to buy the frame. I tried switching back to stock gear too. I love OWB setup so going back to that . I’m new to the hobby fairly new still. I have dx6 gen 3 tx . I just lowered pitch in normal mode down few points couple times , but was getting sluggish. Really frustrating all seems perfect spoiling up for trim flight mid stick sits still n blades tracking amazing, just once pop it up get going it will do that dolphin bogging driving me insane !!! Thinking maybe replacing the FBL with mini ikon 2 or soemthifn . I dunno cause I’m invested now n I have to figure this out, maybe , maybe not. I don’t wanna have to fight the heli. Maybe it’s the RKH mail rotor head. Even though I had that on pretty solid too. Thinking the bogging up n down was head or the collars on shaft I adjusted played around n nothing . Gets better n lowering pitch a tad helped tiny bit, but still annoying . I dunno gonna keep at it and hopefully by end of weekend I’ll have the frame together n give another go. I’ve done so many different things . Stock parts back on. Just got another pair of MH blade grips . List goes on n no. Tried bk to my dx6-I . Anyway you ever figure yours out please give me some insight . Any advice appreciated sorry for the book
@@jtkeys7618 haha that's okay mate. My mindset would be if you want something flying amazing you'll probably have to get something a bot bigger and better to be honest. If i did manage to sort ot I'll let you know but i have a trex 470 now l
I'll be flying soon.
I’ve been trying to just get a good solid hover like I had it, n that dolphin affect I have it hovering but it will pop n bounce &makes that distinct noise n gets away from me a little . Landing it too bouncy . I just don’t wanna fly it like that. Gonna go bk stock motor next, the swap the FBL out of that don’t work. Not giving up ( just yet ) lol thx for reply n your way more advanced than me just by watching your video which is great and thx again for that . Gonna watch it few more times lol take care happy flying ( in my case hair ripping out my head flying ) haaa
@@RCStuffvideos your right lol awesome I’m stubborn wish didn’t have it flying amazing b4. Take care
That's not you flying on videos
Most of it is. I'm not tareq alsaadi but the other bits are me. Why?
if you are going to explain pid. then don't say bullsh*t
people google was PID tuning is.
it's something that people do to fine tune servo motors and heating devices.
basicly you are telling a servo motor to move x amount.
and with pid tuning you will tell the software how HARD/FAST it needs to correct (so apply more or less voltage). how much it needs to anticipate approaching it's final position and thus slow down to be able to stop exactly where you told it to.
and how hard it needs to try and hold that position. (it could move to position and go full voltage trying to hold it there. or basicly drop all power and hope it just stays there on it's own)
you heard his helicopter make a whining sound when he was showing us the angle of the dual rates right?
yeah that's servo whining.
that means this guy has no goddamn clue what pid tuning is and how it's supposed to be done.
google it. because this is just a really quick and dirty explaination.
it's not even in the right order.
(also you are not directly programming the servo's you are programming the flight controller in relation to it's gyro readings.)
to anyone reading this right now. i advise not watching any of this youtuber's video's. i had to complain like this in a another video aswel.
he doesn't know half of what he's talking about most of the times. and you will probbably mess something up if you follow his advice.
lol ok mate. I never said I was a top expert or anything or even explained PID the best it was a very brief explainer. Tell me objectively ehich bit was incorrect? Also you were wrong on your other comment about orientations, Far more experienced people than me advise going tail in.
@@RCStuffvideos
not an expert was verry clear.
just like one of your beginner tips being "if you get disoriented. go tail in"
b*tch if someone is disoriented. how the HELL is he supposed to know wich was is tail in.
that's like saying
"when you are on fire. don't be"
Bitch? Don't be rude or. I'll just ignore you? It's pretty obvious. As i said. You move the tail control until you see the tail is pointing towards you. No one else seems to struggle with this.