Thanks for sharing. Those who've posted that an old battery is charged by the car differently from a new battery are mistaken. The only data from BMW on the topic is that battery registration is a record-keeping function and also allows technicians to select between lead acid, AGM, and Li-Ion, depending on which BMW model is being worked on (US i3 is only AGM). BTW a plug-in battery conditioner is also usable to "keep alive" the car. Just everyone remember to protect the positive terminal clamp from contacting anything conducive under the hood while detached from the battery post.
Great video your absolutely right BMW is ripping people off. For the registration the car keeps track of the state of charge of the 12 volt battery and can tell you how long it is at 100%,90%, all the way down to zero when you register the battery it just resets these statistics if you can look for ISTA+ sw on the internet and install and play with it you need a cheap adapter for the obd port and then you can reset the 12 v battery and much more but even if you don’t do it you will be fine the stats the car keeps will just be off. again great video god bless you !!!!!
Getting a simple tool to register the battery replacement, or have someone do it for you aftwerwards is much easier. Your new battery will last longer too. And there are terminals in the back that can be used to keep the 12v when you replace the battery
I concur with the service at BMW. I have a 2015 i3 and was having an issue with the DC fast charging. Basically I had to lift up a bit for the DC charging to work and when I took the car in to BMW they said the charger was reporting a locking error. They replaced the locking mechanism (which I could have done), and $635.00 later said the car would still not charge on DC fast charge and the next step was to pay for installing new charging cables and connection terminal. ...for $2700.00 When I got the car home, I noticed that when charging level 2 which was no problem, and locking the car, it would NOT lock the handle. I tried this on my wife's BMW i3 and it certainly locked the handle. When I told the dealer and sai they needed to get the car back in they would NOT do it and said nothing needed to be looked at and that I needed to accept the bigger repair before they would even look at the car. I currently have initiated a Better Buisness Bureau complaint after the BMW customer complaint dept also, said that the dealer was correct and are closing the case. I am going to be taking this apart again and determining what they did wrong (as even the emergency blue cord to unlock the charging lock is jammed so must not be connected as well. OUTRAGEOUS!!!!!!!!
I recently changed battery on a 1 series. The issue is that there are a lot more 12V battery variants around now (AGM, flooded, Lithium) also the car tries to maximise battery life by varying charge parameters as the battery ages. If you swap batteries without telling the car's systems there is a risk that it will treat it the same way as the dying battery and may overcharge or otherwise shorten the life of the replacement. I used the Carly app to reset battery parameters.
Great video! I got a message saying battery discharge while stopped, then a day later followed by a check engine light with a code p1c53. You guys think it needs a 12v battery?
Hahahahahahaha I think we all get this car cause we are cheap. I am getting the same error code. My research says it's the 12v battery or the alternator or the sensor that reads the battery level. I hope it's just the 12v battery. Thanks for your video kind sir.
I had this same warning. And when I took it to bmw they did a diagnostic for $312 then they charged me $786 for a battery and install and then $215 to update the computer. And the issue was I suspected the issue but the warnings I got put me in a bind. I don’t get why I got a transmission error and a high compacity battery not charging error. Instead they could have pointed out the issue they literally G you into the dealership and then they don’t tell you what it really is until after they charge you or get you to approve for the service
newer BMW's do NOT charge old and new batteries at the same rate. Your new battery will have half the life then it would with a registration. Isn't the new battery registration like 5 minutes ?
@@fred_e bmw modifies the power it puts to the old battery as it ages to keep it working. It’ll give an older batter more power than a new one. When you switch it out without registering, the car still believes it’s the old battery and will give too much power to it.
@@Vageta1999 thanks for the explanation. I think i was unclear in my request. I’d like to know how to resister the battery without paying the dealer to do that job
not registering the battery saves money in the short term, but it will kill the $180 battery a lot quicker since car is thinking battery is old, charge it more aggressive.
Thanks for sharing. Those who've posted that an old battery is charged by the car differently from a new battery are mistaken. The only data from BMW on the topic is that battery registration is a record-keeping function and also allows technicians to select between lead acid, AGM, and Li-Ion, depending on which BMW model is being worked on (US i3 is only AGM). BTW a plug-in battery conditioner is also usable to "keep alive" the car. Just everyone remember to protect the positive terminal clamp from contacting anything conducive under the hood while detached from the battery post.
Great video your absolutely right BMW is ripping people off. For the registration the car keeps track of the state of charge of the 12 volt battery and can tell you how long it is at 100%,90%, all the way down to zero when you register the battery it just resets these statistics if you can look for ISTA+ sw on the internet and install and play with it you need a cheap adapter for the obd port and then you can reset the 12 v battery and much more but even if you don’t do it you will be fine the stats the car keeps will just be off. again great video god bless you !!!!!
Brilliant. You have confirmed what I thought was possible. Many thanks. 😁
Thanks for your advice from Greece.I will try in my I3 BMW 2016
Getting a simple tool to register the battery replacement, or have someone do it for you aftwerwards is much easier. Your new battery will last longer too. And there are terminals in the back that can be used to keep the 12v when you replace the battery
I concur with the service at BMW. I have a 2015 i3 and was having an issue with the DC fast charging. Basically I had to lift up a bit for the DC charging to work and when I took the car in to BMW they said the charger was reporting a locking error. They replaced the locking mechanism (which I could have done), and $635.00 later said the car would still not charge on DC fast charge and the next step was to pay for installing new charging cables and connection terminal. ...for $2700.00 When I got the car home, I noticed that when charging level 2 which was no problem, and locking the car, it would NOT lock the handle. I tried this on my wife's BMW i3 and it certainly locked the handle. When I told the dealer and sai they needed to get the car back in they would NOT do it and said nothing needed to be looked at and that I needed to accept the bigger repair before they would even look at the car. I currently have initiated a Better Buisness Bureau complaint after the BMW customer complaint dept also, said that the dealer was correct and are closing the case. I am going to be taking this apart again and determining what they did wrong (as even the emergency blue cord to unlock the charging lock is jammed so must not be connected as well. OUTRAGEOUS!!!!!!!!
I recently changed battery on a 1 series. The issue is that there are a lot more 12V battery variants around now (AGM, flooded, Lithium) also the car tries to maximise battery life by varying charge parameters as the battery ages. If you swap batteries without telling the car's systems there is a risk that it will treat it the same way as the dying battery and may overcharge or otherwise shorten the life of the replacement. I used the Carly app to reset battery parameters.
Nicely done!
Great video! I got a message saying battery discharge while stopped, then a day later followed by a check engine light with a code p1c53. You guys think it needs a 12v battery?
Tank you. I kill my 12v battery. Because I have key in tight jeans. Work near car. You save my day and money. My car is home agane
That's Really clever!
Well done!
Many people say re-connecting the high voltage battery is difficult. Looks like yours was easy?
good idearr!
Hahahahahahaha I think we all get this car cause we are cheap. I am getting the same error code. My research says it's the 12v battery or the alternator or the sensor that reads the battery level. I hope it's just the 12v battery. Thanks for your video kind sir.
I had this same warning. And when I took it to bmw they did a diagnostic for $312 then they charged me $786 for a battery and install and then $215 to update the computer. And the issue was I suspected the issue but the warnings I got put me in a bind. I don’t get why I got a transmission error and a high compacity battery not charging error. Instead they could have pointed out the issue they literally G you into the dealership and then they don’t tell you what it really is until after they charge you or get you to approve for the service
I feel bad for your wallet sir
My 12v battery died when I was driving so much fun coasting to a stop on the expressway! Then waiting 3hrs for a tow.....
newer BMW's do NOT charge old and new batteries at the same rate. Your new battery will have half the life then it would with a registration. Isn't the new battery registration like 5 minutes ?
Would you care to explain further?
@@fred_e bmw modifies the power it puts to the old battery as it ages to keep it working. It’ll give an older batter more power than a new one. When you switch it out without registering, the car still believes it’s the old battery and will give too much power to it.
@@Vageta1999 thanks for the explanation. I think i was unclear in my request. I’d like to know how to resister the battery without paying the dealer to do that job
not registering the battery saves money in the short term, but it will kill the $180 battery a lot quicker since car is thinking battery is old, charge it more aggressive.
no registration = bad advice