Ray's Pinball Tech Tips #18.2 (Part 2) - Multimeters? Odds & Ends!
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- čas přidán 24. 10. 2013
- Ray explains basic multimeter uses related to pinball machine repair.
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I agree with Andy, these tech tips are an invaluable resource for the new pinball owners out there.
HEY! Thanks for answering my question -- it's an honor to be contradicted by Ray. I guess it wouldn't make sense to do all that work with a Molex connector on a component you don't often remove -- and I understand it adds unnecessary resistance.
I liked the part about audio hum -- my System 11 High Speed definitely has one. Not so much I worry about it though.
Wish I could make the Halloween party. 6 hours is too many. If I'm going that far, I'd have to be buying something! ;-)
This is an excellent video 👍👍
Lots of nice info. Thanks.
Hi Andy. Im a beginner/novice at this awsome hobby. I have a 1971 Willliams Solid n Stripes pin. I rebuilt the flippers. In one of your vidros you were rebiikding flippers and you guys said dont be lazy n cheap. Replace everything. Problem is my flippers are week. No idea why, everything is new but the EOS and the silinoid. Theres no plundger sleve and the nrw ones couldnt fit inside. I cleaned all the switches. Any ideas what else I should try.
I second this idea. :)
I would totally buy every DVD that comes out by GRC. :)
Ugh I have the two special coil fuses blowing they are 2.5A Slo-Blows.
I have gone through 14 damn fuses tracking down the problem I have no idea why they keep blowing the weird thing is the first time I turned on my machine the fuses did not blow.
But every time since then they have blown and scratching my head on what it could be as everything I have done the fuses just keep blowing up. :|
More brilliant video content! I'd love to know why my Williams Getaway "barks" at me when I switch it on. Speakers crack! Sounds like power surge, but I don't know! Can Ray help!? I see ppl use cards that delay the speaker circuit, but that sounds like hack. I'm more interested in why it happens and what's changed in the machine since it's manufacturing. They didn't design in the "bark" and I don't hear it on other machines. Just curious what it is! :-)
Great stuff guys. Learned a lot. I think you should make and sell DVD repair vids :)
Hello. Got a 1995 Batman Forever pinball. The F3 fuse in the back box is blowing when turned on. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated! Thinking it’s the Cornell Dubilier but don’t know how to check it.
Wow surprisingly the letter would be similar to mine if I sent you a letter through here. xD
And I need to get some cap and bridge rectifiers for a power supply rebuild.
And 3 flipper rebuild kits.
And this will help lots when I need to trouble shoot why the knocker coil was burned up.
Although it may have been the wrong one in it.
I can't wait to put in the new one for it.
If you measure both leads at the same time they cancel each other out. As he stated you can only read one leg.
You also may have to zero it out before starting.
link to the pictures of travel time felix did are posted on GRC facebook page. they are the before restored pics.
Oh excellent timing im working on making my own gun game :D so that will help my research out.
Actually, as for negative and positive, havent they worked out the current travels from Ground to Positive? almost certain thats the case.
How did you know that was a "slow" 5amp. What indicates that it is slow? I just found your channel and you presented so much information in just this one video that my mind was spinning by the end. *that's a good thing LOL.
Time reference? A "slow" fuse will allow short periods of current above the rated threshold. A fast blow will not.
Sorry it was at 14:54 Thanks for the quick reply.
I was hoping this video would correct a mistake made in Part 1, where Ray names the banded end of a diode the anode. It is in fact the cathode. Current flows from anode to cathode. This means, if the red lead of the multimeter is on the anode and the black lead on the cathode (banded end) the multimeter (set up to test diodes) should show a voltage drop of around 0.4V - 0.9V (approx). Critical is, however, when the leads are swapped around the other way that no current flows (oc = open circuit)
Isn't Ambush a blacklight gungame?