Is using these over quickdraws really safer? That is, aren't the slings used in the extenders less strong for shock load compared to the ones used in quickdraws?
SeriousStu Hi Stu, if used correctly these are perfectly safe to use for trad climbing. They can help avoid issues such as rope drag and ropes being caught under roof sections etc to keep the line of the rope nice and neat once extended. When leading routes you should try and minimise the amount of rope you use as most dynamic ropes have around 30% stretch in them and extenders can help reduce the mount of rope in a system. A Potential issue is the krabs are more likely to cross load (which I haven’t mentioned in the video) as unlike most modern traditional quick draws the ‘rope’ karabiner doesn’t have a rubber fixer to stop it rotating. A 60cm sling should adhere to EN 566 and have a rating of 22kn the same as a normal quick draw sling which also adheres to EN 566. Like with all climbing gear use the right tool for the job, when a normal QuickDraw is adequate use a normal QuickDraw, which is why I still have a few on my harness whilst climbing. However I do like to use extenders or alpine draws,as many trad routes wonder about and found these are fantastic items to have on your harness. I hope that helps???
@@sebastianmunoz8635 A bit late but, with this, the only way you can get an intermediate position is by tying an overhand knot in the sling. But keep in mind that this can weaken the tensile strength of the sling by as much as 60%.
@@daniellambden1842 i mean that I always see this: 1) full extension or 2) 1/3 of size, when you pass the carabineer throw the other carabineer and make the "short one" But... That's is a problem if I use this sling just folding in half?
You can use the intermediate size sling however it isn't typically used in trad climbing since it isn't as convenient. The situation where a 1/2 sling would be more useful than either a full length or 1/3 length is rare, and it's hard to plan for that before a climb. At 2:35 you can see how it doesn't matter which of the three strands you clip your rope carabiner into since it will naturally equalize from a 1/3 length to full length. If you try clipping the carabiner into two of the strands to get a 1/2 length, the sling will become tangled around the carabiner and knot, rather than loop, and it can compromise the sling's safety. Plus it may take a significantly longer time to untangle. If you take the time to set up the halved slings you can use them safely. Probably best to do that before you leave the ground, though.
@@Ben-cp6wv Thank you very much for the reply. By using 1/2 I mean simply folding it in half and I understand safety, but how could I set up the halved slings safely. Do you have any video, link or reference image with which you can help me please. Thank you so much!
Is using these over quickdraws really safer? That is, aren't the slings used in the extenders less strong for shock load compared to the ones used in quickdraws?
SeriousStu Hi Stu, if used correctly these are perfectly safe to use for trad climbing. They can help avoid issues such as rope drag and ropes being caught under roof sections etc to keep the line of the rope nice and neat once extended. When leading routes you should try and minimise the amount of rope you use as most dynamic ropes have around 30% stretch in them and extenders can help reduce the mount of rope in a system.
A Potential issue is the krabs are more likely to cross load (which I haven’t mentioned in the video) as unlike most modern traditional quick draws the ‘rope’ karabiner doesn’t have a rubber fixer to stop it rotating.
A 60cm sling should adhere to EN 566 and have a rating of 22kn the same as a normal quick draw sling which also adheres to EN 566.
Like with all climbing gear use the right tool for the job, when a normal QuickDraw is adequate use a normal QuickDraw, which is why I still have a few on my harness whilst climbing. However I do like to use extenders or alpine draws,as many trad routes wonder about and found these are fantastic items to have on your harness.
I hope that helps???
@@ThePeakClimbingSchool Hi! With this method I only can have "2 sizes" or can I have an intermediate size between the full extent and small one?
@@sebastianmunoz8635 A bit late but, with this, the only way you can get an intermediate position is by tying an overhand knot in the sling. But keep in mind that this can weaken the tensile strength of the sling by as much as 60%.
can you do that with a cm or is that stupid... im kind of a beginner.
Hi! With this method I only can have "2 sizes" or can I have an intermediate size between the full extent and small one?
This would just be two sizes, realistically I can't think of a situation where an intermediate size would be critical
@@daniellambden1842 i mean that I always see this:
1) full extension or
2) 1/3 of size, when you pass the carabineer throw the other carabineer and make the "short one"
But... That's is a problem if I use this sling just folding in half?
@@daniellambden1842 min 02:00 - full extension. Min 02:12 1/3 extension.
You can use the intermediate size sling however it isn't typically used in trad climbing since it isn't as convenient. The situation where a 1/2 sling would be more useful than either a full length or 1/3 length is rare, and it's hard to plan for that before a climb.
At 2:35 you can see how it doesn't matter which of the three strands you clip your rope carabiner into since it will naturally equalize from a 1/3 length to full length. If you try clipping the carabiner into two of the strands to get a 1/2 length, the sling will become tangled around the carabiner and knot, rather than loop, and it can compromise the sling's safety. Plus it may take a significantly longer time to untangle.
If you take the time to set up the halved slings you can use them safely. Probably best to do that before you leave the ground, though.
@@Ben-cp6wv Thank you very much for the reply.
By using 1/2 I mean simply folding it in half and I understand safety, but how could I set up the halved slings safely. Do you have any video, link or reference image with which you can help me please.
Thank you so much!