IBM 5155 Part 1 : Surgery - Bringing the luggable back from the dead.
Vložit
- čas přidán 18. 09. 2019
- In this video series I'm going to take my newly acquired, non-working IBM 5155, and transform it into the semi-mobile powerhouse it once was.
After having exchanged my original IBM 5155 for an IBM 5154 EGA monitor, I really wanted a new 5155. Now these aren't that easy to come by, but I did found a great deal on an untested, non-working 5155
We've got a lot of ground to cover and we'll need to get our hands dirty with this one .... So follow along and enjoy the ride, as we take it step by step to get this machine up and running again. - Věda a technologie
For drilling out screws - get a left drilling drill bit. it usually persuades most screws that I came across because you can transfer more force with it. And if it doesn't move at all, it still drills. Saved me loads of headaches.
You're video helped me out a lot. My IBM 5155 which my dad bought new in 1984 and has been sitting in a hot attic since 1996 finally posted and even though the floppy drive hasn't moved in 25 years, once exercised a few times I was able to run PC DOS. Next up is to find out which expansion cards were causing problems.
Surgery is definitely the right word to describe what measures you'll need to take to get this awesome beast up and running again. Very excited to see the next part. Good luck! (you'll need it... 😉)
hehe .... part 2 is already done but I can already tell you there will be a part 3 ... found some additional surprises that needed extra attention
Looking forward to part 2!
holy moly I used to have one of these when I was a kid. all the way back in 1993..lol. I ended up breaking it because I changed the voltage switch. yes it made an almighty bang!
Good video again. Looking forward for part 2 and 3 and... lol.
Thx ! Fun “little” project :)
Nice. I had a 5155 as my system from 1988 to 1993. Fully decked out with a 20MB MFM HDD, AST 6 Pack Plus w/640k, NEC v20, 8087 Math Co-processor, and a 5153 external color monitor (I'd turn down the brightness and contrast on the internal monitor so it was essentially off). Everyone always commented on the little floppy storage space above the floppy drive.
Hehe .. the place to store the most important floppies :) My first one only had 2 360kb floppy drives. Nice to have some extra storage now.
watched 2 vids of yours and they are awesome. subbed
Thx a lot ! Every view is much appreciated ... not that easy for new channels to get some traction on youtube.
I was so impressed with your videos. I wanted to discuss donating what i have to you. Can you email me at sl12@hotmail.com. thanks
I've one of this in some box in my basement. broken powersupply, i'm pretty sure that I lost all the screws.
Maybe one day I'll re-build it!
To unscrew RUSTED bolts from plastic:
step1: let it marinate in penetrating fluid
step2: heat up top of screw, with soldering iron (preferably chisel tip, in this case)
step3: unscrew.
(if still stuck: position a screwdriver on top of the screw, and give it a few taps with a hammer, then repeat above methods.)
The hammer method also works really well for screws rusted in metal. But you have to hit them harder.
next time I will try to show some reserve and patience and do it in a more professional way.
You were pretty rough with that drill, I would first try some chemistry before resorting to brute force. I gasped when you drilled away that piece of beige plastic on the side. I know, talk is easy, so don't mind me :D Anyway, cool machine and another great video!
Thought about it for a bit, but couldn't really find something that would be strong enough to solve the rusted screws but preserve the plastics ... the 3 screws are also pretty well hidden en I can put a nice cover on them :) Focus now is to get it in mint condition again.
Oh man that drilling was hard to watch. You can get extractor bits specifically for this purpose and there are plenty of plastic-safe penetrating oils for loosening up rusted screws. Heating the screw with something like an iron can also work it loose through thermal expansion, although you'd need to be careful with the temperature given the plastic.
@@xenonkay yeah it shows that I am clearly more of a software engineer than hardware engineer :) Wanted to open it up asap and didn't have any of those tools at hand here .... But will look into it as I have another heavily corroded IBM with 1 screw that is completely stuck due to heavy battery leakage.
@@RetroSpector78 AGREED...ive used those extractor bits to get at rusty screws..its a worthwhile investment
I need that IBM.
It's build like a freaking Tank!!!
Great video, really well edited and commentated
Just curious, how did you learn to fault find these issues?
Thx ... glad you liked it ... www.minuszerodegrees.net is THE resource when it comes to IBM equipment. Can’t thank him enough for all of his valuable resources. Other than that, there is a great community of retro enthousiasts out there, and the rest is just a lot of trial and error :)
good job, once again! How easy/hard was it to remove those rusted screws?
Took some brute force.... not the ideal way but was too excited to look inside :) When I pick up something untested and/or non-working I want to jump right in :)
"The treetop screws" lol
Now that I probably have seen you fixing dozens of shorted tantalum caps, it seem to me that most of them were on the -12V line. That doesn't look like a coincidence. But what could be the reason for that? I begin suspecting that the -12V rail generated by those old AT PSUs may not be as clean as a simple multimeter makes it look like. Maybe there are voltage spikes that damage the tantalums over time.
My first IBM 5154 had rust/corrosion like this. When I opened it up, it looked like it had been in a basement flood, full of mud and more rust.
Did you get it up and running again ? Was lucky enough to have acquired a 5154 ega monitor a couple of weeks ago.
@@RetroSpector78 I tried cleaning and re-capping, it was no use, there was something wrong with the corroded board below the CRT. Got a second one working after re-capping the power supply, use it with my IBM 5150 PC and 5161 Expansion Unit.
Do yourself a favour, and get a reverse-drill bit/screw extractor set. Makes a world of difference when you can drill in the direction of the threads, because if it bites, it actually loosens the screw.
I use to see this one in computer stores sells used computers back in 90s. i thinking buying i didn't enough have money for it
Please, park the hdd!
you have (had) two of these?? I think I could not find two in my whole country...
Hi, I have one exactly the same. With the same problem. Is the graphic card changed at the end for a new one?
Greetings
Those mismatched screws are a telltale sign that someone has been in there before. There's only a few different thread sizes (3/32UNC and M3 as far as I know, just like modern PCs).
Have had 2 IBM 5155’s so far ... both with lots of different screws inside...
And then there's Compac and Dell with their Torx screws.
I am considering getting an retro computer to start off. Do I need to have a ton of knowlegde and skills on retro hardware in order to get everything to work?
Depends on what retro hardware you want to play around with ... different time periods have different type of issues / difficulties. Both for most there are grea online communities.
@@RetroSpector78 Thank you for replying! I have zero knowledge on fixing hardware....and I was quite amazed when I see you know every piece of PCB and can detect and fix the problems of them.
@@totommymmy If you can't get into the hardware, you can always play around using emulators such as DOS Box.
It helps to have a small background in electronics and computers. One thing that often goes on these old machines is the capacitors, so being able to identify the type/spec and having some soldering/desoldering skills is a pretty good start. But it's just like buying a vintage car. You need to know SOMETHING about how they work to be able to repair and maintain them. Fully working systems do go up for sale now and then, but they cost a pretty penny, and it's often more worth it to buy broken ones piecemail and fix them. You get much more enjoyment out of them that way.
@@BlackEpyon Thank you for the advice!
Probably a stupid question, but the only info I can find on the AMD version of the 8088 is that the x86 tech was licensed to AMD and a second source of processors for production of IBM PCs. What I'd like to know is, are there any differences between the two versions of the 8088? (One being produced by Intel and the other AMD) Or would it be correct to assume they are identical?
There is no difference between the Intel 8088 and the AMD 8088. (I think you mean "produced by Intel" instead of "IBM" ? Don't think IBM ever produced an 8088 itself). Besides Intel AMD, there was also Siemens, Fujitsu, Harris, NEC, ....that produced 8088 (some using different clock speeds). But the AMD / Intel CPUs are identical.
You can thank IBM for insisting on multiple sources for the existence of AMD, Cyrix, VIA, and other x86 compatible CPU manufacturers over the years. IBM was legally allowed to make and sell Intel chips as their model number up to the 486, which they did.
@@RetroSpector78 Yup, I meant Intel. I was thinking IBM because I think they were the ones that insisted upon multiple 'reliable' sources of production for the 8088.
Hey! My 5155 has diagonal amber lines, what is it caused by? I'm pretty scared...
Superb video - i do also have such a machine. Mine is booting ok, cursor is shown but no characters are shown on screen. Does anyone here has a hint for me how to fix? The machine reacts to commands when typing blindly - copies files does a dir command (cursor is moving correctly) and such. Alas not one character on screen.
I would love to have this for my server machine. How much did it cost? Is that monitor compatible with regular graphics cards ..something like idk.. S3 VirgeDX maybe?
It's a amber-monochrome CGA monitor, which is composite, and a horizontal refresh rate half what the Virge puts out, so no. With how extensively you'd have to modify it, you're better off just tipping a tower on it's side.
@@BlackEpyon there's no gui on my server, so... I mean, won't it work for console output? like.. text only no?
@@pmf026 Strictly for console output, sure, if your video card has a composite out. I haven't seen composite out on video cards since the early aughts (usually on a pig-tail breakout connector). You could also do a serial terminal using any XT-class system, since even modern servers still come with at least one RS-232 port.
Is this the Titor machine?
You're over 1K subs ;)
yeah ! party time :) Assuming you are one of the 1K, thanks a lot for watching , and I hope to continue seeing you here on the channel for lots more content !
No, I'm from about 600 something prehistoric era :D
@@badscrewold3162 hehe ... the good ol' days :) But got some great new content lined up so that we can hit that 10K ASAP :)
how can anyone dislike it?
I can imagine a lot of them after seeing me drilling holes
external harddrive? not floppydrive.
WD40 bud
First video of yours that I've watched and it sounds that either 1. your painfully reading this off of a script that you haven't rehearsed or 2. your not a native english speaker.
Not a native english speaker .... and definitely not scripted. Sorry to hear it came across as painful. Was not my sentiment when making it :)
These kind of videos are great, but with each one I watch, I become increasingly doubtful of the usefulness of these kind of fixes. What happens after you repair it to working condition? You aren't going to use it for anything practical, it's just a collector's piece. It's going to eventually sit of a shelf aging even more and giving in to the ravages of time again. Almost doesn't seem worth the effort.
You could ask the same of people who collect and restore vintage cars. It's the same. We do this because we enjoy collecting, fixing, and restoring them. And once in a while, we'll take them out of the garage for a spin, just for the pure enjoyment, and to show off to like minded individuals.
@@BlackEpyon The problem with that analogy is that vintage cars are still very usable today. We don't have flying cars that would immediately make them obsolete. A restored car from 1960 would still be able to drive down the highway like one made in 2020. A computer from the 1980s would not be useful at all when compared to modern PCs.
@@Levy_Wilson If we used your analogy, cars in 2020 would be more "useful" because they can outrun the cops at mach 2. You can still type, do spreadsheets, and play video games on older computers, just as we did back then. They're not as fast or have as many features, but they're just as practical in the same sense that a car from the 1960's will still get you from point A to B the same way a modern car will, even if it doesn't have air conditioning. But people don't buy vintage cars to use as commuters, and you certainly wouldn't drive one in the snow and mud if you want to keep it's condition. In my area, there's lots of people who bring out their vintage cars on sunny weekends just to cruise around, show off at the truck stops, and enjoy themselves, not because they need to go anywhere with them (also true of bikers). People buy and restore them because they enjoy them, and the same is true for vintage computers. There doesn't NEED to be a "practical" value to them.