find the sweet spot where you want the prop to be while crossing shallows, rig a bungee to hold that position, now fabricate a small slightly down angle wing on shaft near prop, as water flow increases the shaft and prop are pushed to max down agle, slow down it all rises back up safely off the bottom, thanks for posting this new sub here, i am buying this for my current project
Mount on transom, get a 2 blade prop and run with prop half in the water. Surface drive. I've had a twistertail for many years. It did take some getting used to but I love it.
Definitely let us know if you put a bigger prop on it! As crazy as it sounds I’m thinking of doing a build and putting this on my tandem kayak 😂💀 Super interested!!
You shouldn't need to get the prop much deeper, thats more of a surface drive motor. Maybe its not far enough away from the boat to get out the wash. Keep us updated, im interested to see how it turns out for you.
Good job.. I’d try to figure out a better dead man’s switch. Holding that door sensor down all the time is gonna get annoying. Surely you can figure a way to wire a kill switch with lanyard like a normal outboard
Id think that mounting it so you had the option of setting deeper in the water would help. Make it only clear of the water with an inch to spare at full forward tilt
I've been doing some research and I think your right, the prop needs to be down deeper. Unfortunately the mount that came with the kit is a surface mount and not a transom style one. Going to get creative with the mount for the next video
A lot of excellent suggestions. But there are a couple of comments that are just nothing but hateful. They make me damn grateful that I don't know these a-holes. Mambee!
The mud motors are made so you can stand up and drive the boat holding on to a grab bar they're not made for the handle to be pointing up in the air while you're sitting down if you want to sit down you going to have to lower the handle
The engine already sounds like it's lugging. I don't think a bigger prop or a steeper pitch would help without a belt reduction of some kind. Is the propeller below the base of the hull? If the prop is running in the wash behind the transom that can definitely cause the prop to suck air.
The prop definitely needs to be deeper, I'm going to get creative with the mount for the next video. It's barely below the hull, and makes a lot of wash behind the boat when under power
My setup is close to the same just a different transom mount and different prop. It should not have to be that deep. You should be running just fine as long as the prop is below the surface. I would change the prop and adjust the governor for higher rpm. You can get a higher rpm by just drilling a hole in the govenor arm a little further out from where it comes set from factory and move the spring to that new hole. As far as the prop I did see a video here of someone tapping the aluminum props and threading them on then just adding a nut on the end.
I have the same experience. I bought a Mud Skipper anti cavitation plate, unfortunately everything is frozen now so I can’t test it. I was running in marsh areas for duck hunting seemed lower idle I moved better but still was super slow. However once I got in 6 inches of water it moved decent strangely. I also have the same mounting setup my thoughts on moving it back is the same as yours. I was thinking of using mud skippers mount if it came in stock or using one they have for $40 and using a pin from Tractor Supply and a set screw or two to rig a similar mount! Thanks for the video much needed I thought about doing one as well. Just not a lot of information on these thanks again!
Is there any place you can get the mount or the prop shaft for that motor and not the motor itself? Also with the prop shaft be strong enough to run a go cart I’m thinking about buying two of these cutting the mounting section off for the engine, upside down and building a Wii managing rear wheel drive golf cart out of the thing, but I don’t know if the prop shaft strong enough to be a driveshaft
I got an anti-cavitation plate from mud skipper. It helps (see video), but will eventually change to two blade Thai long tail props. I got mine from Amazon over a year ago, it came with the transum mount. czcams.com/users/shorts8ARESawUGbg?si=C8rw1YdXuFyifJcP
put a 6.5"-7" 2x blade.. too get rid of that cavitation.. you could start with a 6.25" even.. but 7" was perfect for me..for speed and if your alone or lighter boat weight..you can get a hi-speed style... i got a black 7hp one from amazon last year.. its still goin... it really makes a difference with a prop swap.. and i did a cam an flywheel etc..etc.. 19mph.. get a longer bolt for the "trim".. and you gotta play with you trim level were the prop- goes on the water. I went with a motorcycle throttle the realases soon as my hand comes off.. But yea you should put a tether on them. an yess they do vibrate at idle.lol-thou a ALUM Flywheel and few other perf parts smoothed myne out... czcams.com/users/shortseuXOGXzFlmA?si=Ad8YkcLtfAck7bJ1 czcams.com/video/I1Mvr4iTDyE/video.htmlsi=O6Ag2zZniOyxDVMw
In my state safety shut offs aren't really required.....all the old motors back in the day had no safety shutoffs and no neutral......I have a 1947 Scott attwater 3.6 HP outboard I run all the time that starts in gear and has no shut off switch.......ya pull the rope and goo
A flat plate on top of the prop will reduce the cavitation. Spend some time watching videos instead of assuming you already know everything. The prop is junk. No cup, primitive design. That is a surface drive which you do not seem to understand or have a clue?
Ehy wouldn't you just get a outboard motor for thst type of boat you could have got you a nice 30 hp 2 stroke off market place for what you paid for that trash
guys, you get this type of motor for areas that a standard outboard would hit. A swamp runner and harborfreight engine is a little more but would work better.
Hi everyone, check out my fishing content! Sub for more
czcams.com/video/4wZsJrY2nwE/video.htmlsi=wF-Y4JxkML53LvNl
find the sweet spot where you want the prop to be while crossing shallows, rig a bungee to hold that position, now fabricate a small slightly down angle wing on shaft near prop, as water flow increases the shaft and prop are pushed to max down agle, slow down it all rises back up safely off the bottom, thanks for posting this new sub here, i am buying this for my current project
I’m saving your words for when I get mine here shortly 🙏👍👀
Mount on transom, get a 2 blade prop and run with prop half in the water. Surface drive. I've had a twistertail for many years. It did take some getting used to but I love it.
Definitely let us know if you put a bigger prop on it! As crazy as it sounds I’m thinking of doing a build and putting this on my tandem kayak 😂💀 Super interested!!
They do make out board mud motors. The guys from swamp people have them, and they use air-cooled Vanguard motors 😊
Mudskipper makes a clutch for the twister mud motors. Yours looks like an exact copy of the twister
There is a bolt to adjust the trim for the motor
You shouldn't need to get the prop much deeper, thats more of a surface drive motor. Maybe its not far enough away from the boat to get out the wash. Keep us updated, im interested to see how it turns out for you.
May have to lift or lower I've heard best performance when the propeller is level at the bottom of the boat
Did you grease the shaft? If you mentioned it I missed it. Didn’t see any grease on the fitting .
Will be making an update video soon, thanks for the views
DO YOU HAVE AN UPDATE VIDEO? gOOD JOB ON THIS ONE. SORRY BOUT CAPS....KEYBOARD IS MESSED UP LOL
Good job.. I’d try to figure out a better dead man’s switch. Holding that door sensor down all the time is gonna get annoying. Surely you can figure a way to wire a kill switch with lanyard like a normal outboard
put the switch in some kind of c clamp bracket, shove a piece of wood with a lanyard in it and el presto.
Why not put the switch in the handle ? So ya hold it with your thumb ?
FFS!
THE regular type kill switch is readily available on Amazon!
You lost me at that point...
Just not even a half baked idea....
Id think that mounting it so you had the option of setting deeper in the water would help. Make it only clear of the water with an inch to spare at full forward tilt
I've been doing some research and I think your right, the prop needs to be down deeper.
Unfortunately the mount that came with the kit is a surface mount and not a transom style one.
Going to get creative with the mount for the next video
Cavitation plate my guy
Yes, they sell one for this exact mud motor on eBay.
It should be lowered and scooted back to the end of the boat
Watch a bunch of videos I bet you get some ideas.
Awesome Stuff it looks fun!
A lot of excellent suggestions. But there are a couple of comments that are just nothing but hateful. They make me damn grateful that I don't know these a-holes. Mambee!
I see them from time to time, it's OK.
Use the seat from an old riding mower, switch is in it already.
How much drop from the key way to the propeller?
Install some rubber motor mounts to help with the vibration issue....
look into a 2 blade propeller swap. A lot of the twister long tail guys swear by it.
The mud motors are made so you can stand up and drive the boat holding on to a grab bar they're not made for the handle to be pointing up in the air while you're sitting down if you want to sit down you going to have to lower the handle
The engine already sounds like it's lugging. I don't think a bigger prop or a steeper pitch would help without a belt reduction of some kind. Is the propeller below the base of the hull? If the prop is running in the wash behind the transom that can definitely cause the prop to suck air.
The prop definitely needs to be deeper, I'm going to get creative with the mount for the next video.
It's barely below the hull, and makes a lot of wash behind the boat when under power
My setup is close to the same just a different transom mount and different prop. It should not have to be that deep. You should be running just fine as long as the prop is below the surface. I would change the prop and adjust the governor for higher rpm. You can get a higher rpm by just drilling a hole in the govenor arm a little further out from where it comes set from factory and move the spring to that new hole. As far as the prop I did see a video here of someone tapping the aluminum props and threading them on then just adding a nut on the end.
I have the same experience. I bought a Mud Skipper anti cavitation plate, unfortunately everything is frozen now so I can’t test it. I was running in marsh areas for duck hunting seemed lower idle I moved better but still was super slow. However once I got in 6 inches of water it moved decent strangely. I also have the same mounting setup my thoughts on moving it back is the same as yours. I was thinking of using mud skippers mount if it came in stock or using one they have for $40 and using a pin from Tractor Supply and a set screw or two to rig a similar mount! Thanks for the video much needed I thought about doing one as well. Just not a lot of information on these thanks again!
Dude you’re gonna have to switch it to a 2 blade and also put a plate on it can send you my set up for it changed the speed by 10 mph
Is there any place you can get the mount or the prop shaft for that motor and not the motor itself? Also with the prop shaft be strong enough to run a go cart I’m thinking about buying two of these cutting the mounting section off for the engine, upside down and building a Wii managing rear wheel drive golf cart out of the thing, but I don’t know if the prop shaft strong enough to be a driveshaft
Mudskipper
whats wrong with a lanyard kill switch that way your hand is free
Try a 2 blade prop and experiment with different sizes
Why doesn't it mount to the transom
Did your throttle stick? I got the same one and my throttle sticks on high and wont go down when I throttle down
It did at first, there is a small screw where the blade pivots on mine. I just loosened it a little tiny bit
I think I'll find some tighter return springs and swap to a bicycle brake lever
get a switch for boat shop that hooks to your vest
More of these
Where do you buy this
I got an anti-cavitation plate from mud skipper. It helps (see video), but will eventually change to two blade Thai long tail props. I got mine from Amazon over a year ago, it came with the transum mount.
czcams.com/users/shorts8ARESawUGbg?si=C8rw1YdXuFyifJcP
you hold the killswitch on the whole time? i cant...🍻
How long did it take to get it? I ordered one a couple of weeks ago and it still says that it hasn’t shipped.
About three weeks, came in two packages
one thing I noticed is the 212 cc motor that you have says it's a 7.5 hp. harbor freight 212 cc motor is a 6.5 hp. I did enjoy the video
Does anybody’s else do a pop sound when too deep
put a 6.5"-7" 2x blade.. too get rid of that cavitation.. you could start with a 6.25" even.. but 7" was perfect for me..for speed and if your alone or lighter boat weight..you can get a hi-speed style...
i got a black 7hp one from amazon last year.. its still goin...
it really makes a difference with a prop swap.. and i did a cam an flywheel etc..etc.. 19mph..
get a longer bolt for the "trim".. and you gotta play with you trim level were the prop- goes on the water. I went with a motorcycle throttle the realases soon as my hand comes off.. But yea you should put a tether on them. an yess they do vibrate at idle.lol-thou a ALUM Flywheel and few other perf parts smoothed myne out...
czcams.com/users/shortseuXOGXzFlmA?si=Ad8YkcLtfAck7bJ1
czcams.com/video/I1Mvr4iTDyE/video.htmlsi=O6Ag2zZniOyxDVMw
In my state safety shut offs aren't really required.....all the old motors back in the day had no safety shutoffs and no neutral......I have a 1947 Scott attwater 3.6 HP outboard I run all the time that starts in gear and has no shut off switch.......ya pull the rope and goo
You say some assembly was acquired I think you mean required you d a
The problem I have with mine is I can’t find the right trim position and my prop cavitates a lot, any tips?
Mines doing the same thing, I haven't had good enough weather to work on it.
The law says if motor comes with one
A flat plate on top of the prop will reduce the cavitation. Spend some time watching videos instead of assuming you already know everything. The prop is junk. No cup, primitive design. That is a surface drive which you do not seem to understand or have a clue?
That thing is the biggest POS I’ve ever seen. I’d just get a used 6.5 horsepower Go-Devil.
Ehy wouldn't you just get a outboard motor for thst type of boat you could have got you a nice 30 hp 2 stroke off market place for what you paid for that trash
And had reverse
guys, you get this type of motor for areas that a standard outboard would hit. A swamp runner and harborfreight engine is a little more but would work better.
Show me a running 30hp for 400
It's not as bad as the trash school systems teaching proper typing and proofreading skills.
You suck
Don't you sup to stand up and drive it.
The way that mounts is terrible
It’s because it’s wrong 😂
You don't know much about boats it shows