Very well structured, informative video... Instantly added to favorites and will be referenced several times for my upcoming first fiberglass project. Thanks for posting.
Skilled craftsmen are a national treasure. Once we lose the manufacturing we lose centuries of knowledge to the point where we will never recover it. Terrific video
What a great video! and quality mould!. i dont think ill need to make my mould as strong, but if you will be using it alot, this is a great way of making it! thanks very much for youre video
@GasserGlass Hi thank you for your reply, The methods we use in some of our videos are quite basic, the company producing these moulds do have more advanced methods but we try to keep the demonstrations to basic hand lay up without the need for spray or sometimes trimming equiptment. some of our customers buying our materials are first time user who may not have access to spray guns and pnumatic tools etc, hopefully we will get the time to demontrate other methods in future videos, Kind rgds
@irfanfikri This is known as The Plug / Mastermould: To produce a mould you need a pattern or former commonly called a “plug” an exact replica of the finished item. Usually you will have to make the plug from scratch. The plug can be made from almost any material as long as it is made rigid, accurate, dimensionally stable and set on a solid foundation. this particular one is made of fibreglass which we made earlier from another plug made from wood which was primed as smoothed to a gloss finish
I just now have to do this. And remembered your great video. Had a look. To make sure I will apply the gelcoat well. 2% of catalyst.. and 6mm thick.. (not more). Got it!!! Thanks a lot.
Hi The Gelcoat is the durable, cosmetic and more often pigmented finish you would see on the part you are producing, it provides weathering and water resistant properties on the part surface, you could pore silicone in just as always try a small test piece first, hope this helps
There is an old saying "God is in the details" Clearly the makers of this video understood the importance of the details in this considerable process. Well done lad's.
Question please: how strong is fibreglass? I was thinking in making a car roof cargo box out of fibreglass but obviously, has got to be very strong. How strong one layer of fibreglass is? How many layers would I need? Thanks
@ecfibreglassuk Thanks for the info. Its just i've seen other on here use upto 6! layers of wax, then 2 coats of PVA release agent. This was for an epoxy resin on carbon 6k fibers though. Would you recoment either/or rarther than both? P.s When you back open after xmas? got an order ready to ring through. Thanks again
Hi, Optimold relies on high exotherm for best results, bit of a nuisance sometimes depending on what your making, some other tooling systems recomend less Resin, thanks for the positive comment.
This is a great tutorial on mould making but 3 to 1 resin ratio would produce a bit to much exothermic heat in the mould I have used 2 to 1 with great results.
Hi, yes its a fibreglass plug that was made, in this case the male part outlasts the female part, so after every few thousand lifts this is brought back in to reproduce another, when its put back into stores a Gelcoat few layers of Glass is usally applied for protection, you can get mould protect, but its sometimes as easy the 'old fashioned' way :-). best rgds
@richarddale76 The treatment of moulds is slightly different for epoxy moulding, some people will only use the PVA alone for epoxy mouldings. Unlike polyester which relies on a chemical bond, the epoxy relies on mechanical bonding so will sometimes still grip to any microscopic scratches on the mould surface even if waxed, PVA produces a good solid barrier between the Epoxy and Mould surface. We are open again on the 3rd of jan. Thanks again and All the best for 2011 Kind rgds ecfibreglassuk
Hi - my A Level class and I have enjoyed watching this video, it has been very good for explaining the process for their A Level studies. They would like to know what the end result actually was, can you help? They have some very wacky ideas!!!!!!Mr Wakefield
When you apply the first layer on consolidation material i.e, the mat with the fibres, you are sticking it in with epoxy resin I presume? Or is it some other material?
@Savyoan Hi its not something i have done im afraid, i have made a mould from a Clay statue after covering it with Shellac first then applying PVA Release. You would only put wax in the Gelcoat (2%) if you were applying to the finished product for finish ect, not on the Female mould as this would inhibit adhesion of subsequent layers of reinforcement, hope this helps.
When you don't use the PVA, what is the trick? Is it that the surface has to be perfect gloss without ANY porosity seen in the surface anywhere? I have some areas still which I could sand out some micro-craters.
I have removed part of my Dashboard that is made from 'Pleather' material puled over metal, there is foam/sponge in between to give it shape. I'm looking to made a solid fibreglass part and not have the spongyness. Can you tell me if its possible to make a mould from the plastic/leather style dashboard material? Thanks :)
this is really about the resin system , you should go with polyester resin, fiberglass for cost, or go Epoxy/carbon and cure the part at the service temp desired
I have two questions about the video what wax do you use to keep the fiberglass from sticking and what is the black stuff u put on first to give it that gloss look after it is done?
@richarddale76 Hi This is a PVA Release agent not to be confused with polyvinyl acetate emulsion which is a Bonding agent. PVA Release agent is a liquid solution of polyvinyl alcohol resin in a mixture of water. when dry this forms a thin skin which acts as a barrier to prevent the resin from bonding to the mould surface. Kind regards ecfibreglassuk
Can I know this place .. iam from Hyderabad We have a electrical work shop and we are thinking introduce sales also from coming season ..so that we need what was the exact process to make cooler body dies
@EastCoastFibreglass - Thank you for this amazing video!! Is there a translucent version of the fibreglass that you could recommend that would allow light to shine through?
If you're NOT making production pieces....which need to be as close to PERFECT as possible.... you CAN skip the gel coat step. But this will give you a part thats not smooth as glass so you might have to do some finishing afterwards. Also keep in mind if the part you're molding has a deep well like the one in this video....you might have a difficult time removing it from the mold. Gel coat is very important when making repeatable molds and will reduce finishing time.
Hi. Great video. I am an ex fiberglasser who only used gel coat in the past, sanded and sprayed it afterwards. Why is there so much nonsense now about gel coat never curing, or you need topcoat or flocoat instead. Has it all changed so much.
If I am to make a boat mould, can I make a plywood mould and then coat it with a couple layers of fiberglass and a layer of gelcoat? So that I could mould the hull straight out of this? It is a one off production, and would not need a master mould.
Hi, that would work, just make sure you've got a good smooth finish on the plywood, and sand down the fibreglass before you gelcoat for the best possible finish on the part. And plenty of release agent
Really inspiring video - you make it look way easier than it is. I found your video looking to troubleshoot a Modified Car Rear Spoiler that I'm working on - hybrid 3d printing and glass fibre layup. I'll be making moulds next! Thank you for sharing and feel free to check out what I'm up to and leave a comment.... I've subscribed!
Thanks, I've taken a look at your video on creating the spoiler and also subscribed. feel free to visit our website for our contact details, drop us an email or call and we'll be happy to help with advice once your ready. Kind regards Martin
***** Take the original part and make sure the surface is a perfect as you want the copies to be. After that you would do exactly the same steps in the video. Ie, clean, thoroughly wax, apply PVA (an alcohol release agent), tooling gel coat, and finally the fiberglass and other reinforcements. You want your newly created master mold to be as flawless and robust as possible.
+Rasheed P Hi there, Release agents are applied before the gelcoat. For this mould we applied mould release wax TR104 hi temp. However your choice of release agent will also depend on what resins you are using and what material your mould or plug is made from.
Simple and clear.... great stuff guys, thanks.
Very well structured, informative video... Instantly added to favorites and will be referenced several times for my upcoming first fiberglass project. Thanks for posting.
Me too
Skilled craftsmen are a national treasure. Once we lose the manufacturing we lose centuries of knowledge to the point where we will never recover it.
Terrific video
Enjoyed the video. Being unfamiliar with the measurements, and the products, I enjoyed the music, and the narration.
Thanks for sharing knowledge sir. Huge respect for your tremendous effort.
very helpful video for my A level homework. thank you
What a great video! and quality mould!. i dont think ill need to make my mould as strong, but if you will be using it alot, this is a great way of making it! thanks very much for youre video
@GasserGlass Hi thank you for your reply, The methods we use in some of our videos are quite basic, the company producing these moulds do have more advanced methods but we try to keep the demonstrations to basic hand lay up without the need for spray or sometimes trimming equiptment. some of our customers buying our materials are first time user who may not have access to spray guns and pnumatic tools etc, hopefully we will get the time to demontrate other methods in future videos, Kind rgds
@irfanfikri This is known as The Plug / Mastermould: To produce a mould you need a pattern or former commonly called a “plug” an exact replica of the finished item. Usually you will have to make the plug from scratch. The plug can be made from almost any material as long as it is made rigid, accurate, dimensionally stable and set on a solid foundation. this particular one is made of fibreglass which we made earlier from another plug made from wood which was primed as smoothed to a gloss finish
Great Video
I just now have to do this. And remembered your great video. Had a look. To make sure I will apply the gelcoat well. 2% of catalyst.. and 6mm thick.. (not more). Got it!!! Thanks a lot.
Glad it was helpful!
I think it is 0.6mm and not 6 mm thick, the first coat(black one)
Very nice job. Thanks
Great video - thanks!
Thank you :-)
Thanks for the video
I think the most stressful part of Mould Making is the music, it'll drive ya crazy before your done..
Then youre not focused enough :D
Haaa true🤣
Me too.... music is sick
I agree, the music is disturbing.
Almost had to exit out👎 music ruined it
Fine finish,,,,great.
Its amazing a super nice coooool project
Hi, its really best to fully assure the coating is at adequate thickness throughout, you can locally re-apply to the effected area, hope this helps.
Hi The Gelcoat is the durable, cosmetic and more often pigmented finish you would see on the part you are producing, it provides weathering and water resistant properties on the part surface, you could pore silicone in just as always try a small test piece first, hope this helps
There is an old saying "God is in the details"
Clearly the makers of this video understood the importance of the details in this considerable process. Well done lad's.
You mean devil is into detail😁
you can get gelcoat pre colored in any color, or purchase tinting material to color as you need to.
@LovemeAquarius Hi, after the resin is catalyzed add talc until you can just pour, approx a 2:1 resin talc does this job, best rgds
Question please: how strong is fibreglass? I was thinking in making a car roof cargo box out of fibreglass but obviously, has got to be very strong. How strong one layer of fibreglass is? How many layers would I need? Thanks
thnk you for your time to answer ,yes that helped
its very good video for fiberglass workers its so nice cos i have my owen fiberglass besnuss thanks
When waxing the mould, is it ok to leave it over night say if you've only achieved 6-7 layers?
Same applies to the former?
Thank you. I am interested
@ecfibreglassuk Thanks for the info. Its just i've seen other on here use upto 6! layers of wax, then 2 coats of PVA release agent. This was for an epoxy resin on carbon 6k fibers though. Would you recoment either/or rarther than both? P.s When you back open after xmas? got an order ready to ring through. Thanks again
Hi, Optimold relies on high exotherm for best results, bit of a nuisance sometimes depending on what your making, some other tooling systems recomend less Resin, thanks for the positive comment.
Hi , material at 4.30 is basically a filler paste with low shrinkage properties, and the other is Opyimold Tolling Resin, hope this helps.
fiberglas is so cool , iam making didgeridoos of it! :)
I wanted to ask for the roller: can I use every kind or should it be a specific material?
thx
Love the music
Beautiful 👌👌👌👌
Qual o nome da tinta que vc usou antes do revestimento da fibra?
Hi, we used 10 waxes for taking mould from plug and also taking part from mould, best rgds
This is a great tutorial on mould making but 3 to 1 resin ratio would produce a bit to much exothermic heat in the mould I have used 2 to 1 with great results.
hi , do we can use other kind of material to put a color instead of gelcoat, is it possible to use an enamel paint ?
Is there any chance you have the intro clip by itself? Just wondering.
does the gel coat can be sprayed? using a compressor? thanks..
Hi yes it would, there is not a restriction on size, just different methods, best rgds
Hi, yes its a fibreglass plug that was made, in this case the male part outlasts the female part, so after every few thousand lifts this is brought back in to reproduce another, when its put back into stores a Gelcoat few layers of Glass is usally applied for protection, you can get mould protect, but its sometimes as easy the 'old fashioned' way :-). best rgds
Sir i m Intrast to fiberglass work experience to 15 years plz reply me
@richarddale76 The treatment of moulds is slightly different for epoxy moulding, some people will only use the PVA alone for epoxy mouldings. Unlike polyester which relies on a chemical bond, the epoxy relies on mechanical bonding so will sometimes still grip to any microscopic scratches on the mould surface even if waxed, PVA produces a good solid barrier between the Epoxy and Mould surface. We are open again on the 3rd of jan. Thanks again and All the best for 2011
Kind rgds ecfibreglassuk
What is the purpose of the gel coat? Can you cast silicone in a mold like that?
how to make that mould...and whats the degree of heat for melting and how it looks.. This video is very informative.nice
Hi - my A Level class and I have enjoyed watching this video, it has been very good for explaining the process for their A Level studies. They would like to know what the end result actually was, can you help? They have some very wacky ideas!!!!!!Mr Wakefield
Hi Mr Wakefield - These are moulds for life raft containers, some of which can be seen in the movie Interstellar - It's our claim to fame :-)
When you apply the first layer on consolidation material i.e, the mat with the fibres, you are sticking it in with epoxy resin I presume? Or is it some other material?
Hi, it's polyester resin
sometimes a certain kind of yellowish powder is added to the resin could you tell us what it is?
Hi, there is nothing to substitute the Gelcoat im afraid! Car wax is a release ageant, you need the Gelcoat for the mould surface.hope this helps
👌👌👌👌beautiful
Thanks, can I apply varnish on the finish fiber glass project instead of paint?
+cherfieldm Hi, please give us a call on 0191 497 5134 to discuss
@Savyoan Hi its not something i have done im afraid, i have made a mould from a Clay statue after covering it with Shellac first then applying PVA Release.
You would only put wax in the Gelcoat (2%) if you were applying to the finished product for finish ect, not on the Female mould as this would inhibit adhesion of subsequent layers of reinforcement, hope this helps.
@mindfreak001009
Hi you would need a compressor to spray gelcoat, or without simply brush apply,rgds
Painting tooling gelcoat is still the quickest no fuss way for small moulds
nice video
Very nice job
I enjoy thank u
When you don't use the PVA, what is the trick? Is it that the surface has to be perfect gloss without ANY porosity seen in the surface anywhere? I have some areas still which I could sand out some micro-craters.
Very great... But.. How do you trim what's over the mould?
Thank you..
Hi, same way you trim it to fit. The edges can be sanded down to get rid of the rough bits too
I have removed part of my Dashboard that is made from 'Pleather' material puled over metal, there is foam/sponge in between to give it shape. I'm looking to made a solid fibreglass part and not have the spongyness. Can you tell me if its possible to make a mould from the plastic/leather style dashboard material? Thanks :)
how much did this size mould cost to make all together?
Great stuff!! What is the mixture you used for the reinforcement board?
Hi, what do you mean?
Hi
I have a few questions.
Before painting gelcoat .
How many wax to original part ?
Thanksyou very much
What type of fiber glass cloth materials do I need to use in high temperature area like engine bay?
this is really about the resin system , you should go with polyester resin, fiberglass for cost, or go Epoxy/carbon and cure the part at the service temp desired
I have two questions about the video what wax do you use to keep the fiberglass from sticking and what is the black stuff u put on first to give it that gloss look after it is done?
It's all explained in the video as he goes
Good job
good job
Hello
I have so important question can I used fiberglass mould for to make Carbon fiber parts? please respond me very soon,Thank you so much
peter John I guess it is depended on the mold applications
Would this work for something the size of a car?
@richarddale76 Hi This is a PVA Release agent not to be confused with polyvinyl acetate emulsion which is a Bonding agent.
PVA Release agent is a liquid solution of polyvinyl alcohol resin in a mixture of water. when dry this forms a thin skin which acts as a barrier to prevent the resin from bonding to the mould surface.
Kind regards ecfibreglassuk
Excelente
Can this method be used to create a durable kitchen sink?
Thankyou :-)
Hi depends where you are they are companies that can import, hope this helps best rgds
Can I know this place .. iam from Hyderabad
We have a electrical work shop and we are thinking introduce sales also from coming season ..so that we need what was the exact process to make cooler body dies
nice sound
Hi, this would be the Gelcoat used in the process, best rgds
@EastCoastFibreglass - Thank you for this amazing video!! Is there a translucent version of the fibreglass that you could recommend that would allow light to shine through?
Not for mould making. We do some clear epoxy casting resins which may work if cast into shape, or we sell perspex sheets
@@ecfibreglassuk Oh, that's great! What's the name of your clear epoxy casting resins? I am interested!
@@Jules262 you can find them here www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/category/clear-epoxy-resins
If you're NOT making production pieces....which need to be as close to PERFECT as possible.... you CAN skip the gel coat step. But this will give you a part thats not smooth as glass so you might have to do some finishing afterwards. Also keep in mind if the part you're molding has a deep well like the one in this video....you might have a difficult time removing it from the mold. Gel coat is very important when making repeatable molds and will reduce finishing time.
Hi. Great video. I am an ex fiberglasser who only used gel coat in the past, sanded and sprayed it afterwards. Why is there so much nonsense now about gel coat never curing, or you need topcoat or flocoat instead. Has it all changed so much.
nice
Very nice video
If I am to make a boat mould, can I make a plywood mould and then coat it with a couple layers of fiberglass and a layer of gelcoat?
So that I could mould the hull straight out of this? It is a one off production, and would not need a master mould.
Hi, that would work, just make sure you've got a good smooth finish on the plywood, and sand down the fibreglass before you gelcoat for the best possible finish on the part. And plenty of release agent
Really inspiring video - you make it look way easier than it is. I found your video looking to troubleshoot a Modified Car Rear Spoiler that I'm working on - hybrid 3d printing and glass fibre layup. I'll be making moulds next! Thank you for sharing and feel free to check out what I'm up to and leave a comment.... I've subscribed!
Thanks, I've taken a look at your video on creating the spoiler and also subscribed. feel free to visit our website for our contact details, drop us an email or call and we'll be happy to help with advice once your ready. Kind regards Martin
hi, thank u for your video. I would like to know if this the mould, then what is the red colour?
Hi, the red is the gelcoat from the part they're making a mould from
so now you can put your fiberglass on?
how much would a piece like that cost in materials?
Where can I get this stuff?
Nothing wrong with brushing tooling gelcoat, spraying gelcoat is a real art NICE !!!
You need a mould to make the mould...I'm after the initial mould, How do I make that? Anyway, great video!
That is a master mould taken from the initial mould that was made, this can be used time and time again to produce a new mould.
***** Take the original part and make sure the surface is a perfect as you want the copies to be. After that you would do exactly the same steps in the video. Ie, clean, thoroughly wax, apply PVA (an alcohol release agent), tooling gel coat, and finally the fiberglass and other reinforcements. You want your newly created master mold to be as flawless and robust as possible.
start with a plug. hehehe
You need a pre-inital mould to make the initial mould
i used cement to make a mould for a sink .. . many moons ago
What kind of materials using before jell coat?
+Rasheed P Hi there, Release agents are applied before the gelcoat. For this mould we applied mould release wax TR104 hi temp. However your choice of release agent will also depend on what resins you are using and what material your mould or plug is made from.
What is the mixing ratio of TALC and RESIN ??
If I understand this correctly: Original part -> wax -> gel coat -> fiberglass + resin (repeat). This would give me a mould of the original part?
That's basically it
Hi yes it is actually better to leave wax to harden correctly overnight, if you need to put any more on the next day it will be ok, kind rgds
Hi, usually 2-3 hours @ room temp of approximately 18-20 deg C.
what if ,dont sell the gel coat in my country what im gonna do? to make a professional mold?
I just wanna find out, is tooling Gelcoat the same as regular unwaxed Gelcoat. Or is tooling Gelcoat something different
Tooling gel has a vinylester base so it's more suitable for mould making
Very nice give description of details
Hey have you tried using Hemp fibre matting before?
Yes, very weak.
polyester resin or epoxy resin?
what is the distance of each layer, and how many layers of gelcoat, resin, fiber and the last material ....?
UP
UP
but how do we make the "red thing" first?