Thank you Ramon. Good job. I appreciate your videos. Tip, when using 3/4 drive or 1" drive air impact wrenches, you will need 1/2 air hose plumbed straight to your air source. Also will need the 1/2" adapters and quick connects at the impact. This will supply the proper air volume to allow your bigger impacts to produce the rated torque. I use to have trouble loosening class 8 truck and trailer lugnuts that are torqued to 550 ft lbs. That was because I too was using 3/8" hose with 1/4" adapters and quick connects. Went to proper 1/2" hose and adapters, now 3/4" impact works and gives great torque output. Have a blessed and safe week.
BILLLLLYYYYYY! I been trying to get this stupid thing off my 2007 Honda Fit for 2 weeks+ I'm a tired man. I took out the quick connect from my compressor and directly threaded the hose to it and then the hose directly to my 1/2 gun. It worked in less than 30 seconds! Today was one of the most disappointing days ever because I ran out of ideas and options until I tried one last thing which was the instructions in this comment. Thank you so much!
Excellent idea!!! I spent 3 days in the rain and snow trying to remove a Honda crank bolt, and not once did I think of trying what you did. I eventually invited my friend with his 1" drive hammer gun and his huge compressor for working quarry machines. I was so fed up I didn't even care if it sheared off the bolt, but finally it came out with no more bother. What are Honda playing at!!!
MIGHTY MAGNUM madmansteve69 Thank you my friend. I don’t like to use this method but I didn’t have any other choice. You have to make sure that engine is turning clockwise and bolt is right thread and to disable ignition. You don’t want engine to start only crank. 👍👍
3/4 drive 4ft breaker bar and extension with about 1 min of heat on bolt did the trick. It also helps to have a 280 lb friend to lean on the bar. Glad I watched some videos so I knew what not to try.
Terima kasih brother, Video anda sangat bermanfaat. Beberapa cara sudah saya lakukan membuka mur pully crv gen 2 tp gagal, Cara ini layak untuk di ikuti. Mantab
I have just done this on my 2.2 CDTi CR-V. I broke a 1/2" breaker bar first. Had a chisel jammed into the flywheel ring-gear (there'a a little slot) and got into the brace position and pulled and pulled and then SNAP. So I got my second 1/2" bar and the first click of the starter freed it off. Hooray
So there is actually a Snap-On impact socket that works wonders for these. It's tapered at the nose to increase available breakaway torque. We call it the "bullet socket" because of it's shape. lol. After buying it, I've never had an issue getting the crank bolt off and I worked at Honda for 6 years. I'll grab the P/N and drop it below in case anyone is interested.
Grato amigo por compartilhar teus conhecimentos e experiências, tua paciência e esforço e dedicação na conclusão da tarefa, foram recompensados, este teu vídeo vai me ajudar muito nas manutenções do meu Honda Civic.. Assistindo no Brasil em 02/09/2021. Ganhou mais um inscrito. Obrigado e muito sucesso pra vc sempre..
On a lot of the 4 cyl accord engines , the crankbolt is also stubborn. I have found that a mapp gas torch held on it for around 30 plus seconds takes the fight ouut of them. But I just did 2 of the j35s and used the crank holding tool and a 3 ft 3/4 " ratchet and locked it down w a 1/2 " breaker bar against the motor mount bracket above the water pump. Was much easier than I planned. Good luck.
Done that with many toyotas. Never thought of doing that move on anything else. Good to see that work for someone. I have a CR-V that's as bad the one in your vid. Was tubing for ideas. This looks good. Was afraid of breaking the crank hub if I kept going with the standard Honda holding tool and continuing to keep adding leverage length. Have a IR 3/4 gun that until now never failed. Went off to try this and I am sad to say - NO JOY. Little Itty bitty Battery might be dropping the voltage as the torque demand builds. This one i have in my own little corner of HELL is exceptionally fucking bad. Seeking still other ideas. Still a good idea that is easy to set up and is worth trying. I have personally had many successes on other cars. Thanks for the vid.
For those asking, the torque on those crank bolts is 47 ft-lbs plus 60 degrees. The service manual does say to put some engine oil between the head of the bolt and the washer before installation.
And for anyone else who wants to know: 250ft-lbs didn't get me to 60 degrees and I said "fuck it good enough". That was a new bolt with lubed threads as the manual calls for.
@@someusername121 I've never measured it but I've had no problem getting the 47lbs + 60 degrees. The book doesn't recommend a new bolt, though it can't hurt. It also recommends oil between the head of the bolt and the washer, not just the threads. Usually, I only put oil between the head and the washer and don't bother with oiling the threads. I do use a holding tool, a 3/4 breaker bar and a cheater pipe, though. When you do them on someone else's car it's best to use the book specs. On your own vehicle, "good enough" is good enough.
I worry about twisting the crank (or breaking it) using the starter. If the bolt hadn't given something would have. It has happened in the past if the starter is a little lose on the ring gear to strip a tooth. Very good Video. I only found you a short time ago and have been watching since. By the way just to blow my own horn, I am 73 and had a car in the shop 4 time. All for warranty work.
Yeah, we broke a vanadium extension trying to break this bolt on my MDX. Had to buy an impact one and jump on the breaker bar together with my friend (like 320 LBS of weight). We had the Honda tool, though, so the balancer was kept in place.
Fair play to you. I've tried everything you have just performed. And now I think I will try the cranking method, again I don't like to do this, but what choice am I left with
I learned my lesson. It's a combination of volume and pressure. I added a 1/2 inch connector to my compressor and just enough 1/2 inch air hose and it increased my impact strength by nearly 50%. I never have any problems now. Long hoses expand and absorb a portion of the effective air pressure. Of course a really good high power impact helps allot. A way to deliver heat is also an absolute must. I don't think you will find a pro shop that doesn't have a torch.
how did you add 1/2" connector to the air compressor? I have 20Gal 240V tank with Aircat gun, but the bolt won't budge, bump starter does not work either. Thanks
I always find it funny that the torque on the bolt is more than the engine produces. I bet the spec for that bolt is around 150ft-lbs. Persistence pays off!
Nice! I used the pulley stopper tool and I broke my 1/2 extension. I just ordered the big 19mm socket before watching your video. If the big socket combined with a Milwaukee impact gun doesn't work, then I will try to crank the engine.
I have used this method on 2 of my Nissan's 3.5 engines, I place the end tip of the breaker bar on the ground. Works like a Charm. A bit scary to do, but gotta get that darn thing loose! I guess the starter of the car is the Ultimate Torque Monster. Good Video Sir.
wow. stubborn for sure. Clever the way you did it.. I certainly would not have the courage to try that. :) I first thought maybe left hand thread. Thanks for sharing.
@@manatutormtg the risk is the breaker bar might go flying and do damage. Disable the car from running (disconnect fuel injectors or spark, etc) and always attach rope or bunjy cords to keep breaker in place. Get other people out of area before cranking. Also if breaker bar is not kept so the socket is perfectly on bolt head, you could strip out bolt head etc. Also verify bolt is not counter threaded, or you will be tightening instead of loosening it. Excellent workable solution but you do need to be thoughtful about it.
Roman had this problem many times. I bought a Makita Gun that has 1700 nm break away torque and even if does not do it, i apply a little heat to the bolt and that does the trick. I feel you pain. Nice video.
That was cool 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 I have been in that spot many times!!! Never did the starter trick BUT after buying that socket you have there and using a really good air Impact like the IR Titanium that has 1200lbs of brake out it takes them off every time.. You can’t use any cheap air tool or battery impacts they just won’t do the job.. GREAT VIDEO 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 .. I’ve had people call me and ask if I can get that bolt off for them?.. Yes!! IR’ 2135 battery or the new bigger one with that (socket) will take it off... AND FYI for the arm chair pro’s out there 25+ years doing it AND remove dozens and dozens of those Crank shaft bolts every year... I pay my bills doing this kind of work.😉😉😉😉 so I don’t/won’t play around with home game tools.
The new Milwaukee fuel angle impact, yes, the battery operated one. I have also seen break the crankshaft bolts lose. Thats the only other thing. It was specifically the angle impact. NONE OF the other tools tested broke it lose
I thought I was back in time watching a silent film comedy... As long as your engine spins the correct direction that usually does the trick, though not recommended... Disconnect the coil wire or remove the fuse so the engine doesn't start, and be careful. You just got through the hardest part of the job. At least if you need to do it again it will spin right out... Good luck!
Jamie White I never had this much problem before. This is not my first Honda I worked on. My 3/4 impact worked every time. I used special socket as well but it just didn’t work . I hope to have more luck next time.👍😁
always wise to confirm engine rotation some honda have bolts open the other way. also sometimes tightening can help with the rattle gun. I crank my compressor to 13 bar if it wont open . extentions are a bad idea to much torsional torque loss. Last resort induction heat and then rattle gun.
I'm assuming it was a factory-installed bolt, the bolt did not look like it was corroded or rusted. So how could that bolt get so tight without the threads stripping or the bolt failing when it was last installed? Using the started was a truly interesting approach to get the bolt out, that was thinking outside the box!
I feel your pain. I've come to the conclusion, the problem is compression on the rubber motor mounts keeping you from generating enough torque to turn the bolt.
On my 2014 Accord V6, I tried everything you did, I purchased the largest Makita 1/2”, the pulley holder tool and still no luck. I seen where adding heat to it helps. I used my industrial heat Gun and heated the bolt to 300°. It came loose with the big socket and the Makita XWT08Z 18V LXT®... I think heat on the bolt is necessary.
LOL. I used a 20" Husky 1/2" extension on a breaker bar. I wrapped a strong rope on the handle of the breaker bar, and attached the other end to my work truck. LOL. Put my wife in the truck, and had the end of the breaker bar/extension against my knee. That's what held it steady the best. And BAM! Did I break the tools, did I break it loose? HEY! I broke it loose. LOL. My wife kept saying how much of a bad idea it was. Which it wasn't genius. But it worked. :D
The dewalt 1/2” impact 20v is a beast rips those right off. That’s my go to impact. So much HP I bought the 3/8” and 1/4” 20v as well however nothing beats the 1/2” 20v I’ll put it up against any other gun. DCF899 is the model. You gotta grab one you’ll love it
Welding Junkie I just got the Dwalt DCF 899 for $250 on sale on Amazon. It also came with a 4 amp hour battery, charger and carrying case. I also had $120 in gift cards so my total ended up being $150 with tax. That was a good day.
I like the air hammer with the hex nut extensiion bit. I was betting on it. I think 3/4 drive extensions would have been stiff enough too take it loose. If I were using a 600 ft lb torque wrench, it would be set to 595 ft lb.
steve park I believe 600 ft lb torque wrench would work if I would have lift. I could use short 3/4 extension and have plenty of room to move my wrench.👍
Looks like a job for my Milwaukee impact. Hit it long enough with that thing somethings gonna move. LOL. The starter method is one of the best tricks in the book as long as it rotates the correct way. If not it'll tighten it up even more :-(
I’ve literally tried everything and can’t get the bolt undone.. I’ve tried a milwakee m18 and then a brand new one of the same drill from my neighbour who’s a mechanic (the other drill was 4 years old) and nothing. It’s a 2003 crv vtec and the nut has probably never been off. I’ve tried the bump method, even welded a steel bar through and 50mm hex box spanner and used a breaker bar and it ripped the box section.. I’ve ordered a laser 3760 tool and going to try again but does anyone have any other suggestions ? A cam chain has turned into a nightmare 😭
You could place breaker bar and socket on bolt, other end of bar on hydraulic jack and lift car until bolt breaks free. Car weighs couple thousand lbs at front end so force is that times breaker bar length. 2000 lbs x 2 ft long breaker= 4000 lbs torque at bolt! This is way more than needed. Just be sure everything is lined up straight so socket doesn't slip off bolt. Or, just do the starter trick.
Wow, I admire your perserverence. I hope you removed the coil wire to prevent the vehicle from starting when you bumped the starter. Also, with vehicles with a timing chain tensioner, you have to be careful when you load the crank like that. You could jump a tooth. Also, that is a lot of torque put on a small starter gear and flexplate. I would hate to have to call a customer to tell them they need a new flexplate, or starter now. Or worse, the engine now wont start because the timing gears jumped a tooth or two. I end up buying the job. But congrats. You got it loose.
Jump a tooth? So what. You're taking that nut off to replace the timing belt anyway. Starter trick used thousands of times in shops and DIY. Quit worrying
Nah, they just want to do everything in their power to make sure you have to pay somebody else (preferably one of their service centers) to work on their vehicles. 😐
Do the back wrapped belt trick, with some Khrol oil mine was like that for a month as soon as I tried it it popped loose literally twisted and snapped 6 inch extension in the process tho make it one long extension and not a bunch of pieces and use a fence post as a breaker bar and it'll break loose. That's the only thing I got to work.
Your air gun did not have enough air. Usually those fat sockets do the job very well, provided you use a powerful wrench. Also stay away from those air restricting 1/4” fittings, I upgraded mine to 3/8th and now I am the Godzilla. I suffered for 25yrs with 1/4” fittings, also no one borrows my tools anymore😊🤓
I'm not sure what kind of torque that air gun was putting out but I can say that I have those same DeWalt 18v impacts and they don't put out anywhere near enough power to take off that crank pulley bolt, even with the Lisle socket. If you ever upgrade your impacts to the newer gen, using that with your Lisle weighted impact socket will zip those right off. Speaking from experience lol.
The dewalt 20v dcf899 will eat those for breakfast and come back for more. The 18v forget it. That dewalt 20v 1/2” illl put against any other impact any day of the week. I rip those bolts right off like it was nothing. The 20v 1/2” mid power won’t do it has to be the full size dcf899
I just put a little wd40 on it, then put a socket with a breaker bar braced on the lower control arm. Then I bump the starter. Off in 1 min. I don’t even mess with power tools or crazy set ups.
I’m trying to figure out how to get this to work on a 1986 Civic 1. 4-speed, crankshaft pulley bolt is on the driver’s side and it rotates counter-clockwise looking in from the driver’s side wheelwell. Not sure why this starter technique doesn’t work on counter-clockwise? Thanks for this video and for all the ideas and comments here!
The starter method will not work with the D-series engines because it its rotating counter-clockwise, which would be tightening the bolt. You may need to buy the special Honda crank pulley tool that holds it still while loosening.
It might seem that with an extension and long breaker bar with cheater pipe plus all your body weight that you're putting possibly 1000's of ft-lb torque on the bolt. The truth is that a lot of the torque is being lost via twisting of the extension, like torsion bar suspension.
Tell me you have heard of Milwaukee High Torque Impacts by now. 1400 breaking power. I think they even have one that is more. Like 1700. I've seen them bust these but even they have to hammer for a bit. 5 to 20 seconds. The bolt starts smoking at the washer. I wonder how many people have hurt themselves on that bolt. I just bought the high impact today. it 400.00 US. Came with a bag, charger and 1 5ma battery.
Good stuff have same problem even broke one straight connecter bar from socket the half inch or is it three quarter inch so I will try this tomorrow good on ya saw scotty doing same so defo worth ago
@@kyhomegarage3430 yep it sure is ,we tryed everything except turning over the engine and reason we haven't done that yet we believe one valve is abit bent or tightrod so abit afraid to try thst yet last resort it will be
They tighten over time. Its a reaction between dissimilar metals between the washer part of the bolt and the crank pully. Wheel bolts on alloy wheels do the same. Eg put them on at 80 ft pounds and a year later they may take 200 to remove them.
Why hell don't they just use a left hand thread on the bolt and inside the crankshaft. This would make the bolt self-tightening and wouldn't have to be initially torqued up so much? Liked the video and just subscribed.
Ah, the infamous Honda crank bolt.
Been at it 48 hours today haven't gotten mine out yet
I've done this battle a few times. I had good luck w/ heat on bolt head and Lyle special socket. Great video!
Thank you Ramon. Good job. I appreciate your videos. Tip, when using 3/4 drive or 1" drive air impact wrenches, you will need 1/2 air hose plumbed straight to your air source. Also will need the 1/2" adapters and quick connects at the impact. This will supply the proper air volume to allow your bigger impacts to produce the rated torque. I use to have trouble loosening class 8 truck and trailer lugnuts that are torqued to 550 ft lbs. That was because I too was using 3/8" hose with 1/4" adapters and quick connects. Went to proper 1/2" hose and adapters, now 3/4" impact works and gives great torque output. Have a blessed and safe week.
Thank you my friend. I will definitely have to invest in bigger hose. This is a first time I had this much trouble with Honda bolt. 👍
BILLLLLYYYYYY! I been trying to get this stupid thing off my 2007 Honda Fit for 2 weeks+ I'm a tired man. I took out the quick connect from my compressor and directly threaded the hose to it and then the hose directly to my 1/2 gun. It worked in less than 30 seconds! Today was one of the most disappointing days ever because I ran out of ideas and options until I tried one last thing which was the instructions in this comment. Thank you so much!
The starter turn-over trick worked after duplicating everything you did on your video. Thank you!!!
Cursing is mandatory when doing this, stressful just watching this!
sand 007 😂😂
Couldn't have said it better!
It is really helpful for me to get up and huff around for a while. Being a small women, I end up doing a lot of huffing around. Anger is good!
I had to do this a few times in the past. I served my time at Honda
Excellent idea!!! I spent 3 days in the rain and snow trying to remove a Honda crank bolt, and not once did I think of trying what you did. I eventually invited my friend with his 1" drive hammer gun and his huge compressor for working quarry machines. I was so fed up I didn't even care if it sheared off the bolt, but finally it came out with no more bother. What are Honda playing at!!!
MIGHTY MAGNUM madmansteve69 Thank you my friend. I don’t like to use this method but I didn’t have any other choice. You have to make sure that engine is turning clockwise and bolt is right thread and to disable ignition. You don’t want engine to start only crank. 👍👍
Nice job Sir, finally................this weekend I'll be exact;y that to get that stubborn crank bolt !
3/4 drive 4ft breaker bar and extension with about 1 min of heat on bolt did the trick. It also helps to have a 280 lb friend to lean on the bar. Glad I watched some videos so I knew what not to try.
Love the fact he's wearing Crocs while doing this.
Terima kasih brother, Video anda sangat bermanfaat. Beberapa cara sudah saya lakukan membuka mur pully crv gen 2 tp gagal, Cara ini layak untuk di ikuti. Mantab
I have just done this on my 2.2 CDTi CR-V. I broke a 1/2" breaker bar first. Had a chisel jammed into the flywheel ring-gear (there'a a little slot) and got into the brace position and pulled and pulled and then SNAP. So I got my second 1/2" bar and the first click of the starter freed it off. Hooray
So there is actually a Snap-On impact socket that works wonders for these. It's tapered at the nose to increase available breakaway torque. We call it the "bullet socket" because of it's shape. lol. After buying it, I've never had an issue getting the crank bolt off and I worked at Honda for 6 years. I'll grab the P/N and drop it below in case anyone is interested.
Where it at doe
Might be the way to go I say honda or who ever else takes these off wen replacement I say there's alot of locktiight on it
Grato amigo por compartilhar teus conhecimentos e experiências, tua paciência e esforço e dedicação na conclusão da tarefa, foram recompensados, este teu vídeo vai me ajudar muito nas manutenções do meu Honda Civic.. Assistindo no Brasil em 02/09/2021. Ganhou mais um inscrito. Obrigado e muito sucesso pra vc sempre..
HOLY MACRORONI 😲
I used to work on locomotives. Had spline drive impacts with 1inch air lines. Chicago fittings
On a lot of the 4 cyl accord engines , the crankbolt is also stubborn. I have found that a mapp gas torch held on it for around 30 plus seconds takes the fight ouut of them. But I just did 2 of the j35s and used the crank holding tool and a 3 ft 3/4 " ratchet and locked it down w a 1/2 " breaker bar against the motor mount bracket above the water pump. Was much easier than I planned. Good luck.
Done that with many toyotas. Never thought of doing that move on anything else. Good to see that work for someone. I have a CR-V that's as bad the one in your vid. Was tubing for ideas. This looks good. Was afraid of breaking the crank hub if I kept going with the standard Honda holding tool and continuing to keep adding leverage length. Have a IR 3/4 gun that until now never failed. Went off to try this and I am sad to say - NO JOY. Little Itty bitty Battery might be dropping the voltage as the torque demand builds. This one i have in my own little corner of HELL is exceptionally fucking bad. Seeking still other ideas. Still a good idea that is easy to set up and is worth trying. I have personally had many successes on other cars. Thanks for the vid.
Great idea to remove that stucked big bolt!.
Thanks.
For those asking, the torque on those crank bolts is 47 ft-lbs plus 60 degrees. The service manual does say to put some engine oil between the head of the bolt and the washer before installation.
And for anyone else who wants to know: 250ft-lbs didn't get me to 60 degrees and I said "fuck it good enough". That was a new bolt with lubed threads as the manual calls for.
@@someusername121 I've never measured it but I've had no problem getting the 47lbs + 60 degrees. The book doesn't recommend a new bolt, though it can't hurt. It also recommends oil between the head of the bolt and the washer, not just the threads. Usually, I only put oil between the head and the washer and don't bother with oiling the threads. I do use a holding tool, a 3/4 breaker bar and a cheater pipe, though. When you do them on someone else's car it's best to use the book specs. On your own vehicle, "good enough" is good enough.
@@johnaclark1 Its the huge washer thats the problem and or the rotation of engine. They're absurd to get off even if never done (factory)
I usually use a 1" impact gun. Gets the job done every time
I worry about twisting the crank (or breaking it) using the starter. If the bolt hadn't given something would have. It has happened in the past if the starter is a little lose on the ring gear to strip a tooth. Very good Video. I only found you a short time ago and have been watching since. By the way just to blow my own horn, I am 73 and had a car in the shop 4 time. All for warranty work.
flineman Thank you for stopping by sir.👍👍
The fact that this video has been watched over 70k times makes me wonder who is torque these bolts so tight.
Thanos
Yeah, we broke a vanadium extension trying to break this bolt on my MDX. Had to buy an impact one and jump on the breaker bar together with my friend (like 320 LBS of weight). We had the Honda tool, though, so the balancer was kept in place.
I thought the same thing, maybe my cheap extensions were twisting a little. I found that using actual 6 sided impact sockets helps too
Fair play to you. I've tried everything you have just performed. And now I think I will try the cranking method, again I don't like to do this, but what choice am I left with
I learned my lesson. It's a combination of volume and pressure. I added a 1/2 inch connector to my compressor and just enough 1/2 inch air hose and it increased my impact strength by nearly 50%. I never have any problems now. Long hoses expand and absorb a portion of the effective air pressure. Of course a really good high power impact helps allot. A way to deliver heat is also an absolute must. I don't think you will find a pro shop that doesn't have a torch.
how did you add 1/2" connector to the air compressor? I have 20Gal 240V tank with Aircat gun, but the bolt won't budge, bump starter does not work either. Thanks
I always find it funny that the torque on the bolt is more than the engine produces. I bet the spec for that bolt is around 150ft-lbs. Persistence pays off!
Nice!
I used the pulley stopper tool and I broke my 1/2 extension. I just ordered the big 19mm socket before watching your video. If the big socket combined with a Milwaukee impact gun doesn't work, then I will try to crank the engine.
did the weighted socket work with the impact? currently waiting on mine to be delivered.
I have used this method on 2 of my Nissan's 3.5 engines, I place the end tip of the breaker bar on the ground. Works like a Charm.
A bit scary to do, but gotta get that darn thing loose! I guess the starter of the car is the Ultimate Torque Monster. Good Video Sir.
me toon this was not my first rodeo with Honda engines but for some reason this bolt was really tight. It was fun for sure.😁😁
how do you get it back on?
@@morphius747 a difficult removal does not damage the threads, it threads back on easily.
I have used the starter a couple of times. No damage resulted.
wow. stubborn for sure. Clever the way you did it.. I certainly would not have the courage to try that. :) I first thought maybe left hand thread. Thanks for sharing.
@@manatutormtg the risk is the breaker bar might go flying and do damage. Disable the car from running (disconnect fuel injectors or spark, etc) and always attach rope or bunjy cords to keep breaker in place. Get other people out of area before cranking. Also if breaker bar is not kept so the socket is perfectly on bolt head, you could strip out bolt head etc. Also verify bolt is not counter threaded, or you will be tightening instead of loosening it. Excellent workable solution but you do need to be thoughtful about it.
Roman had this problem many times.
I bought a Makita Gun that has 1700 nm break away torque and even if does not do it,
i apply a little heat to the bolt and that does the trick.
I feel you pain.
Nice video.
I think the crocs might be draining all your strength. I feel your pain. Been there.
Great vid. Thx. I'll be trying this on my 2001 Civic.
That was cool 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 I have been in that spot many times!!! Never did the starter trick BUT after buying that socket you have there and using a really good air
Impact like the IR Titanium that has 1200lbs of brake out it takes them off every time.. You can’t use any cheap air tool or battery impacts they just won’t do the job.. GREAT VIDEO 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 .. I’ve had people call me and ask if I can get that bolt off for them?.. Yes!! IR’ 2135 battery or the new bigger one with that (socket) will take it off... AND FYI for the arm chair pro’s out there 25+ years doing it AND remove dozens and dozens of those
Crank shaft bolts every year... I pay my bills doing this kind of work.😉😉😉😉 so I don’t/won’t play around with home game tools.
My IR W7150 electric impact pulls out Honda crank bolts without any problems.
My Dewalt Can do these no problem as well.
The new Milwaukee fuel angle impact, yes, the battery operated one. I have also seen break the crankshaft bolts lose. Thats the only other thing. It was specifically the angle impact. NONE OF the other tools tested broke it lose
I do this most often. It may not be the safest, but done right - it works. A 1” Impact Driver (Ingersol-Rand) for RV’s and trucks work every time.
I thought I was back in time watching a silent film comedy... As long as your engine spins the correct direction that usually does the trick, though not recommended... Disconnect the coil wire or remove the fuse so the engine doesn't start, and be careful. You just got through the hardest part of the job. At least if you need to do it again it will spin right out... Good luck!
Been there , done that. But not in a long time. Lyle socket has worked every time now in sunny San Diego on 175psi. Thank god
Jamie White I never had this much problem before. This is not my first Honda I worked on. My 3/4 impact worked every time. I used special socket as well but it just didn’t work . I hope to have more luck next time.👍😁
Ramón, an induction heater will be your friend in these battles. ⚡
always wise to confirm engine rotation some honda have bolts open the other way.
also sometimes tightening can help with the rattle gun. I crank my compressor to 13 bar if it wont open . extentions are a bad idea to much torsional torque loss. Last resort induction heat and then rattle gun.
Intrade Motor agreed my friend. Thank you 👍
Outstanding job well done thank u for the video
Thank you sir. This one was crazy.👍😊
I'm assuming it was a factory-installed bolt, the bolt did not look like it was corroded or rusted. So how could that bolt get so tight without the threads stripping or the bolt failing when it was last installed? Using the started was a truly interesting approach to get the bolt out, that was thinking outside the box!
I get scared when that"unfixable" moment happens.
I feel your pain. I've come to the conclusion, the problem is compression on the rubber motor mounts keeping you from generating enough torque to turn the bolt.
Heat Ramon. Hit the washer portion with some heat. It should work. Not excessive. 👍
Nice job bro....u really make me smiles a lot coz im in your situation before :) i can feel you....
shukerij Life 😂😂
On my 2014 Accord V6, I tried everything you did, I purchased the largest Makita 1/2”, the pulley holder tool and still no luck. I seen where adding heat to it helps. I used my industrial heat Gun and heated the bolt to 300°. It came loose with the big socket and the Makita XWT08Z 18V LXT®... I think heat on the bolt is necessary.
LOL. I used a 20" Husky 1/2" extension on a breaker bar. I wrapped a strong rope on the handle of the breaker bar, and attached the other end to my work truck. LOL. Put my wife in the truck, and had the end of the breaker bar/extension against my knee. That's what held it steady the best. And BAM! Did I break the tools, did I break it loose? HEY! I broke it loose. LOL. My wife kept saying how much of a bad idea it was. Which it wasn't genius. But it worked. :D
I’ve been in that battle and it took me a week with an army of power tools and that special socket to defeat that stubborn crank bolt 👊💪!!
The dewalt 1/2” impact 20v is a beast rips those right off. That’s my go to impact. So much HP I bought the 3/8” and 1/4” 20v as well however nothing beats the 1/2” 20v I’ll put it up against any other gun. DCF899 is the model. You gotta grab one you’ll love it
Welding Junkie I just got the Dwalt DCF 899 for $250 on sale on Amazon. It also came with a 4 amp hour battery, charger and carrying case. I also had $120 in gift cards so my total ended up being $150 with tax. That was a good day.
I got the same one at farm and fleet a 2 yrs ago for 199 also with 4 ah charger and bag.
I like the air hammer with the hex nut extensiion bit. I was betting on it. I think 3/4 drive extensions would have been stiff enough too take it loose. If I were using a 600 ft lb torque wrench, it would be set to 595 ft lb.
steve park I believe 600 ft lb torque wrench would work if I would have lift. I could use short 3/4 extension and have plenty of room to move my wrench.👍
Looks like a job for my Milwaukee impact. Hit it long enough with that thing somethings gonna move. LOL. The starter method is one of the best tricks in the book as long as it rotates the correct way. If not it'll tighten it up even more :-(
I’ve literally tried everything and can’t get the bolt undone.. I’ve tried a milwakee m18 and then a brand new one of the same drill from my neighbour who’s a mechanic (the other drill was 4 years old) and nothing. It’s a 2003 crv vtec and the nut has probably never been off. I’ve tried the bump method, even welded a steel bar through and 50mm hex box spanner and used a breaker bar and it ripped the box section.. I’ve ordered a laser 3760 tool and going to try again but does anyone have any other suggestions ? A cam chain has turned into a nightmare 😭
Yea I broke my 3/8 breaker bar on this, didn't think it would but these bolts are on really good
how do you set the crank pully static when you turn the bolt
You could place breaker bar and socket on bolt, other end of bar on hydraulic jack and lift car until bolt breaks free. Car weighs couple thousand lbs at front end so force is that times breaker bar length. 2000 lbs x 2 ft long breaker= 4000 lbs torque at bolt! This is way more than needed. Just be sure everything is lined up straight so socket doesn't slip off bolt. Or, just do the starter trick.
The only you need is eat more frijoles, no more special tools. Thanks for your videos, good job
Wow, I admire your perserverence. I hope you removed the coil wire to prevent the vehicle from starting when you bumped the starter. Also, with vehicles with a timing chain tensioner, you have to be careful when you load the crank like that. You could jump a tooth. Also, that is a lot of torque put on a small starter gear and flexplate. I would hate to have to call a customer to tell them they need a new flexplate, or starter now. Or worse, the engine now wont start because the timing gears jumped a tooth or two. I end up buying the job. But congrats. You got it loose.
I don't like this method ether but I didn't have choice. thank you my friend.
Jump a tooth? So what. You're taking that nut off to replace the timing belt anyway. Starter trick used thousands of times in shops and DIY. Quit worrying
I dont understand. How would this cause the timing to jump?
Now you know.
Japanese know what they're doing. They make sure that you remember them.
🤣🤣👍
Nah, they just want to do everything in their power to make sure you have to pay somebody else (preferably one of their service centers) to work on their vehicles. 😐
Been there, done that! That's the way I got it off too.
Good thing your engine cranks clockwise...
My Accord cranks counterclockwise, so I can't use that method to loosen the bolt.
Makita tw1000 works as a charm, just in 2 seconds the bolt is out.
Do the back wrapped belt trick, with some Khrol oil mine was like that for a month as soon as I tried it it popped loose literally twisted and snapped 6 inch extension in the process tho make it one long extension and not a bunch of pieces and use a fence post as a breaker bar and it'll break loose. That's the only thing I got to work.
I got PB Blaster, 1100 ft lb impact wrench, the Lisle socket, torch. Even the last method didn't work for me.
I gotta take it to the man.😢
Your air gun did not have enough air. Usually those fat sockets do the job very well, provided you use a powerful wrench. Also stay away from those air restricting 1/4” fittings, I upgraded mine to 3/8th and now I am the Godzilla. I suffered for 25yrs with 1/4” fittings, also no one borrows my tools anymore😊🤓
2767 milwaukee impact and harmonic bolt socket does the job
You have to lock the flywheel dead still with a jig of some sort. Chain wrench method was springy and that's why you were not able to break it.
I'm not sure what kind of torque that air gun was putting out but I can say that I have those same DeWalt 18v impacts and they don't put out anywhere near enough power to take off that crank pulley bolt, even with the Lisle socket. If you ever upgrade your impacts to the newer gen, using that with your Lisle weighted impact socket will zip those right off. Speaking from experience lol.
The dewalt 20v dcf899 will eat those for breakfast and come back for more. The 18v forget it. That dewalt 20v 1/2” illl put against any other impact any day of the week. I rip those bolts right off like it was nothing. The 20v 1/2” mid power won’t do it has to be the full size dcf899
Harbor freight sells a old-fashioned corded impact gun that delivers a impressive 1050 foot pounds, and it’s $50
It’s ugly , it’s big, but it works!
If the crankshaft is on the passenger side, it rotate counterclockwise?
I'm sure someone already mentioned this, but the starter method only works with engines that spin clockwise.
never seen an engine spins counterclockwise yet.
My 97 honda accord engine spins counterclockwise.
the crank bolt is 212 ft.lb when tighten and to remove is has a honda crank pulley holder.
SMART!!! very SMART!!!
thats the last resort it works but i would have tried the blue wrench first
Its amazing how strong the starter is
Series DC motors have the highest torque.
What does a Haynes manual suggest?
I felt your pain 😖!
Get an impact driver with 1000 ft lbs torque breakaway it will loosen that stubborn bolt in a second 💪!
I just put a little wd40 on it, then put a socket with a breaker bar braced on the lower control arm. Then I bump the starter. Off in 1 min. I don’t even mess with power tools or crazy set ups.
I’m trying to figure out how to get this to work on a 1986 Civic 1. 4-speed, crankshaft pulley bolt is on the driver’s side and it rotates counter-clockwise looking in from the driver’s side wheelwell. Not sure why this starter technique doesn’t work on counter-clockwise? Thanks for this video and for all the ideas and comments here!
The starter method will not work with the D-series engines because it its rotating counter-clockwise, which would be tightening the bolt. You may need to buy the special Honda crank pulley tool that holds it still while loosening.
Toyota’s too
I wrung the end off of my 1/2 extension with a cheater bar trying to loosen mine..
Well he said it all his weight and the torque wrench clicked at 270ft, i think a 1000ft with a socket would take that off
Move jack so you can rotate your wrench more
Do this work on a 03 Honda Accord ex?
had a honda prelude 1990 and the advice was a 2m breaker bar with 2 men and a small boy
John Carter 🤣🤣
That advice sounds very suspicious 🤔🤔
It might seem that with an extension and long breaker bar with cheater pipe plus all your body weight that you're putting possibly 1000's of ft-lb torque on the bolt. The truth is that a lot of the torque is being lost via twisting of the extension, like torsion bar suspension.
Wow 😮 that’s ridiculous what’s the torque on that thing anyway? Obviously way more than you need lol
THATS HOW I DO IT FOR YEARS BUMP START IT BUT ON COUNTER CLOCK RUNNING HONDA ENGINES THAT DONT WORK DIFFERENT TRICK NOT TO BE SHARED SO EASIERLY
In honda hrv with push botton for start engine. How to use this trick to loisen this bolt
Did u turn the key half way or all the way
Can I really use the engine crank to do this??
1/2” breaker bar and the socket place breaker bar close to the lower control arm. Bump the starter and it’s loose
That’s what I did.
Tell me you have heard of Milwaukee High Torque Impacts by now. 1400 breaking power. I think they even have one that is more. Like 1700. I've seen them bust these but even they have to hammer for a bit. 5 to 20 seconds. The bolt starts smoking at the washer. I wonder how many people have hurt themselves on that bolt. I just bought the high impact today. it 400.00 US. Came with a bag, charger and 1 5ma battery.
Dang man, I used this method but I couldn’t get it out. I put more grease on it hope I can get it out tomorrow or sometime later
Good stuff have same problem even broke one straight connecter bar from socket the half inch or is it three quarter inch so I will try this tomorrow good on ya saw scotty doing same so defo worth ago
Good luck with your repair sir. This one was very difficult.
@@kyhomegarage3430 yep it sure is ,we tryed everything except turning over the engine and reason we haven't done that yet we believe one valve is abit bent or tightrod so abit afraid to try thst yet last resort it will be
Nice job Ramon! I wonder what the factory uses to install that bolt as well as the torque spec?
They tighten over time. Its a reaction between dissimilar metals between the washer part of the bolt and the crank pully.
Wheel bolts on alloy wheels do the same. Eg put them on at 80 ft pounds and a year later they may take 200 to remove them.
185 foot pounds
I had to do that to a couple of times.
I would have done the starter trick first time on this motor , wont work on pre 2000 anticlockwise hondas
You need a jack to support the breaker bar
did you just use torque wrench as breaker bar?
Desperate times call for desperate measures
Ramon, which air impacts were you using? The big one should've been able to take the bolt off provided you had a good volume of air going to it.
BuddysAdventures this was very first time that my 3/4 didn’t work. I have done Honda timing belt before this one was just crazy.
Why hell don't they just use a left hand thread on the bolt and inside the crankshaft. This would make the bolt self-tightening and wouldn't have to be initially torqued up so much? Liked the video and just subscribed.