We inherited several wood planes with different lengths. But when we tried them they didn't seem to work very well so they became shelf ornaments. But this video really showed how well they can work when properly adjusted and most importantly how to adjust with a hammer. We will now be taking them down off the shelf and giving them a second chance after a nice honing.
Thank you for this plane series. I'm a novice, just starting to flirt with a restored Stanley no. 4, but my appetite for hand planes has been whetted. I'm really enjoying your podcasts too. Thank you again.
I know that there are some professional woodworkers who won't even consider using a wooden bodied plane but I love my old woodies. It is great to see you guys singing the praises of these traditional planes and methods. I only regret that the prices will now shoot up as the word gets out.
There are a number of excellent reasons good wood workers don't use wooden planes. You should look into stepping into the 20th century. Use some real planes.
You and Joshua are knocking it out of the park with your series. Great job and woodworking journey! Keep up the good work! Few comments I notuced though, Throat opening should of been talked about also in terms of tearout prevention, and refence to dialing in the blade and how to sharpen it. A reference to it. (You did at the very end but no reference to how too dial it in or link) Also tapping hammer is a personal preference for weight and material. I use a brass head so the blade does not get damaged over time. And a small wood mallet on the wood bodies planes, Over all good video! 🤔🤗👌 👍
I've been looking at Veritas planes made in Canada. They look awesome with great specs. Have you looked into them? It's a cast iron vs the wood built ones you use. Or would you recommend getting a wooden one? Thank you
It's called a Camber. Its purpose is to prevent each stroke leaving tram lines in your work. It's essential really, and very easy to apply a Camber to your irons.
I have a few Japanese planes with relieved corners (and they work great), but most of my Western planes have a camber (a slight curve to the whole cutting edge). This allows the plane to take a deeper cut in the middle, tapering out to nothing on the edges. With the smoothing plane, the camber is very slight, almost imperceptible.
I have been taught to put the planer on its side when not in use to prevent damage to the chisel. I see you don't do that at all, but wouldn't it be better? Or does it not matter? Any ideas?
Leaving it on its side leaves the iron open to damage, anything on your bench can knock off it. If the plane is sole down then the iron is protected and cant be damaged. A wooden bench is not gone hurt the iron; it's made to cut wood.
Close ups of plane alignment and board would make this even more useful. Don't interrupt the flow of the video, just splice the close ups in afterwards. Cheating I know, but would help me. Ta.
We inherited several wood planes with different lengths. But when we tried them they didn't seem to work very well so they became shelf ornaments. But this video really showed how well they can work when properly adjusted and most importantly how to adjust with a hammer. We will now be taking them down off the shelf and giving them a second chance after a nice honing.
T
his has been most helpful - I have two new smoothing planes - an Ulmia and an ECE. This answers my questions. Thank you.
Thank you for this plane series. I'm a novice, just starting to flirt with a restored Stanley no. 4, but my appetite for hand planes has been whetted. I'm really enjoying your podcasts too. Thank you again.
I know that there are some professional woodworkers who won't even consider using a wooden bodied plane but I love my old woodies. It is great to see you guys singing the praises of these traditional planes and methods. I only regret that the prices will now shoot up as the word gets out.
I know there are some professionals that won't use a hand plane at all. Those are the real wierdos ;)
With wooden planes, I've always been put off by not being able to adjust the blade with one hand whilst I'm working.
There are a number of excellent reasons good wood workers don't use wooden planes. You should look into stepping into the 20th century. Use some real planes.
You and Joshua are knocking it out of the park with your series. Great job and woodworking journey! Keep up the good work!
Few comments I notuced though, Throat opening should of been talked about also in terms of tearout prevention, and refence to dialing in the blade and how to sharpen it. A reference to it. (You did at the very end but no reference to how too dial it in or link) Also tapping hammer is a personal preference for weight and material. I use a brass head so the blade does not get damaged over time. And a small wood mallet on the wood bodies planes, Over all good video! 🤔🤗👌 👍
Awesome tips, dude! Thanks a lot! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Love this series!
Great, detailed explanation! I don't use wooden planes, but I learn a lot from your videos. Thank you.
I've been looking at Veritas planes made in Canada. They look awesome with great specs. Have you looked into them? It's a cast iron vs the wood built ones you use. Or would you recommend getting a wooden one? Thank you
Do you also round off the corners of your iron edge? I heard it prevents accidental deep cuts or bumps
It's called a Camber. Its purpose is to prevent each stroke leaving tram lines in your work.
It's essential really, and very easy to apply a Camber to your irons.
I have a few Japanese planes with relieved corners (and they work great), but most of my Western planes have a camber (a slight curve to the whole cutting edge). This allows the plane to take a deeper cut in the middle, tapering out to nothing on the edges. With the smoothing plane, the camber is very slight, almost imperceptible.
I have been taught to put the planer on its side when not in use to prevent damage to the chisel.
I see you don't do that at all, but wouldn't it be better? Or does it not matter? Any ideas?
We actually just discussed this very issue in our most recent podcast - www.mortiseandtenonmag.com/blogs/blog/podcast-32-things-we-argue-about
Leaving it on its side leaves the iron open to damage, anything on your bench can knock off it. If the plane is sole down then the iron is protected and cant be damaged. A wooden bench is not gone hurt the iron; it's made to cut wood.
Could I set up a fore plane as a smoothing plane? I ask because the fore plane is much larger and I have huge slab to smooth
So after this treatment, you can move on to finishing or painting, without sanding?
This gud
Hi, is there a way to get the books in a digital version? Shipping to the EU on the website is 60$ which is insane.
Close ups of plane alignment and board would make this even more useful. Don't interrupt the flow of the video, just splice the close ups in afterwards. Cheating I know, but would help me. Ta.