Using a Timing Light on my Volvo 240 made a BIG Improvement!
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- čas přidán 20. 05. 2023
- Using a Timing Light on a Volvo 240 with a B230F Redblock and LH2.2 Ignition system. I set it to the correct 12 degrees before top dead centre (BTDC) after finding it was several degrees off, which was the cause of some hesitation, loss of power and could have been the reason it failed the emissions test...
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Love the fallout 3 bit at the beginning lmao, great game!
I keep trying to get Miss Involvo'd to play it, as she is partial to the odd video game or 2, I told her it's so good, I'm still doing stuff like this 15 years later after playing it 😂
SAME SAME, had no idea he was THAT cultured 😩😩😩😩
nice, just bought a Timing Light and used this as a "how to", man so sad that you stoped making Videos, i really miss it :(
I'm not surprised the car's running better. 5 degrees out is a hell of a lot. Glad it's sorted, now for the piston slap.
I knew how it worked in principle, but watching you and with the arrows was super helpful. Appreciate the effort you've taken
Thanks, glad it was helpful!
Finally! A decent video on timing these suckers.
I paint the timing mark on the crank pulley and then I also use a paint pen for the ticks on the lower timing cover. Makes everything very visible with just the strobe from the timing light.
What s delightful turn of phrase you have discribing how rough it runs😂
Dicing with death there asking the Mrs touch high voltage ignition parts when up the duff, can get one hell of a crack off any stray voltage there mate !
Yet another informative and helpful video, great. On another note, really nice to see Ms involvo'd looking radiant with the prospect of Motherhood. Best of luck with it all, you deserve it. You thought the car insection was difficult, wait until you meet maternity. All the best. Steve.
Haha, cheers Steve! 👍
Great job! This might also be what Furious Driving needs to do to his 740!
Maybe I should buy it when he eventually lists it for sale and do it 😄
Nice work and nice gun! Mine is rubbish and produces a faint light.
Hope all is well with Mrs Involvo’d…
Not too long now!
Aww, Bump Involvo'd is coming on now! Soon be the star of the show! Love to you 3! TCV, Marty D😁😁😁
Thanks 👍
Hope things are good and Mrs Involvo'd is well :)
Thanks, yeah she's doing great!
The Brit Expat has more power now!!!
I kinda surprised myself a couple of months ago when I was racing a Dodge and Cadillac and I hit 100mph in my 93 240 sedan (saloon)I honestly didn’t think the bloody thing could go that fast!!😮
It’ll do like 105 maybe 110, 92 sedan
What an amazing piece of kit Sledge. Even I could appreciate that. Nice to see your glamourous assistant looking well and happy. Have a great week.
Thanks 🙂
Thank you for sharing your work. I am glad you're feeling better and it's good to see Ms. Involvo again. I really enjoy your videos.
Thanks, I appreciate you watching! 🙂
Nice video. And good findings. :) I remember on my first car the hesitation on stepping on gas was due to worn out spark plugs. But that one had fixed distributor.
Nice! That's a usefull tool to have around. Good job!
The VATs intro got me good 😂
I love that you have kept pumping out videos lately! It makes my day every time!
Thanks for the support! 😀
When I lived in the UK, I was always told to leave a 6 pak of beer in the back seat to pass your MOT.....
Super! Nice tool! 👌🏻
In many B230F with LH 2.4 and EZ116K you can't change timing like that. The distributor isn't even movable in 940. Timing is adjusted by computer based on different constantly monitored variables/inputs and timed with crank position sensor. No doubt this is valid with LH 2.2 though.
You can take out the rubber key on the distributor and rotate it but it makes no difference as the computer corrects it all in 2.4
It really confused me at first too haha
you can move the timing to 3deg advance on lh2.4 volvos.
the contact going to the flywheel reader, if you cut of the directional plastic casting and turn the contact 180 degrees, you trick the brain to ignite another 3 deg earlier as it will ignite going into the timing hole instead of going out of the timing hole, by reversing the poles on the sensor.
the ecu will read it as the engine is on time but in reality it will inject and spark 3 deg earlier than stock, for a little power improvement, did it on mine on a dyno and it went from 96 hub hp to 100 then tweaked the cam timing and got another 6hp, (ran the H cam at 2 deg advance)
Hey Kolja 😃
Volvo Meeting Elbe standing next to your black 245 ✌️
Hallo,
wie geht’s der Lichtmaschine?
Bis demnächst.
@@PV_240 wieder sehr gut 😉 eine ganz neue brachte die entscheidende Wende.
Hi Sledge,
Another good video so thank you for posting.
When setting the dynamic timing with a strobe light you also need to adjust the rpm to a specific value, for Instance 12 degrees btdc at 750 rpm, sometimes the timing is set at the engine idle speed.
You also need to know if the vacume advance pipe to the distributor should be connected or disconnected whilst setting the dynamic timing, this information can usually be obtained in the workshop manual, Google or via Autodata.
Best regards to you both
Stefano
Thanks for the info, that's a good point! These didn't have a vacuum advance but the earlier ones did. I remember using Autodata years ago, such a good database!
@@Involvod Hi Sledge....
You're very welcome it's good to share experience and knowledge, I enjoy watching your videos.
Best regards to you and your good lady.
Best regards
Stefano
Good man, you know what they say...."timing is everything"..and once the bits are in, she'll pass....Take care you 2 plus
Finger crossed 🤞 (or thumbs pressed as they say here) cheers!
Very handy tool to have for sure! I also found that just a few degrees can make a big difference. Always nice when a noticable improvement can be a simple tweak. Loved the intro as well, made my day!
I have a stroboscope from the 80s. No fancy screen or multiple buttons, but it does the job. When I first used it on my Amazon, I couldn't find the marks. People kept telling me it should be located on the front pulley. Reading the service manual, I found that they're actually located on the flywheel of the car! There's an opening in the bellhousing you point the light through. The next problem I had was that because the car is 6 volt, it would barely flash. Had to hook it up to an external 12 volt battery.
Yes, many cars used to have that: Old Peugeots 404, 504, bmw 02, 3series
Glad you enjoyed it! And just when you think it should be easier to do stuff on older cars 😂
You're Cutting skills are getting better and better. Not only the intro
Really nice and enjoyable
Thanks, appreciate the feedback 😀
Is that one of those brand new old Volvo's you showed us from that showroom collection??
I wish! 😀
Shoulda set er at 13 or 14! Lil extra pep!
My LH2.4 redblock has unbelievably good throttle response but sometimes has hick-ups at very low rpm and a slightly rough idle. I wonder if I made a mistake when I checked the timing. Slightly too advanced ignition timing would explain those symptoms..
Good stuff Sledge! Super happy to be beneath the bonnet again :)
Edit: 4:01 yup mine does the exact same shaking thing without missing a beat. I'll double check the timing, I've got a feeling it's too advanced.
Low rpm hick-ups are the worst! I get so stressed thinking it's going to break down. The rough idle seems to be a redblock feature 🤣
LH2.4 system is different.
The timing is done by EZK and it keeps on advancing it until it receives ping feedback from the knock sensor. Then it delays timing in increments of 3 degr. after which it again tries to advance timing. Rinse and repeat. It's a classic feedback loop system.
The distributor just needs to be set in the right mechanical ballpark. Inside that dizzy there is no centrifugaal advance nor vacume advance. It's all done by the EZK module.
The only servic8ng you need to fo is decent plugs with the rigt gaps set, good wires, good cap and good rotor. If these are in good condition the ignition should be perfect all the time.
@@jfv65 I have read of a procedure to set the base timing though, I'm wondering if the EZK may be running out of adjustment freedom or if the previous owner maybe grounded pins 18,19,21 or 25 of the EZK. But you are right *ideally* everything should be fine.
As Sledge said though, running a bit rough might just be a feature of our beloved tractors :D
If only the occasional hiccup / difficulty starting would be replicable. It's such a nightmare to troubleshoot because it's always fine again when I try to check anything.
@@Involvod Once or twice it even quit on me when I was trying to get going. One quick tap to the fuel pump relay and it's usually fine again. No idea if it's actually at fault or a placebo in those situations, sometimes it still needs a few throttle blips to find its groove again.
It can definitely be scary but I've never been left stranded, only a very temporary road block :D
@@Bassalicious it is rare for them to really leave you stranded, has never happened to me, just a few temporary roadblocks as you say 😂 Oh and when I had to clean the distributor cap after the car wash 🥴 Do you have spare fuel injector relays? I made a jumper wire from the 87/2 to 30 pins, cheaper than a relay and a great way to determine if that is the fault / if the pumps still run!
nice one. Re the tyres on the test, perhaps it might be worth geting some new wheels and tyres and keeping them for test time, afterwards stick your part worns back on.
It's quite convenient that the 740 actually needs tyres so I feel a temporary switch around coming on 😄
@@Involvod shhhh maybe spies in the camp.
Sincronizar as correias é difícil, parabéns pelo trabalho 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thanks 👍
@@Involvod abraços do Brasil 🇧🇷
It’s nice when its a simple fix isn’t it?
Yeah man! Doesn't happen nearly often enough 😂
@@Involvod at least with redblocks it **can** still happen as opposed to modern cars anyway ;)
I am will save some money so i can buy a 240 next year. Preferably a glt/gle saloon
Could it be worth putting in some of the fuel additive to reduce emissions and/or giving it a good spirited run before the MOT test so it's nice and hot? I assume thermostat is working so car is not running too rich as well. Usually new spark plugs helps too.
Could definitely be a good idea, the emission should be better now after this adjustment, but I think last time they didn't warm it up fully, as we take it there early in the day and they get to it at some point not straight away
👍
Just wondering if you saw the Volvo on you tube with 15,000 miles on the clock and it was a sedan 2.3 Turbo, absolutely as new had only one owner. The guy in the States always finds nice cars as he is a car dealer with a you tube suite, I will see if I can find the name for you. Find it Euroasian Bob, please check it out. 🙏
Oh I'll check it out, I remember "Urination Bob" from Hoovies Garage 😄
Nice! I think, the timing on my 92 LH2.4 is computer controlled and not adjustable. Anyone? At any rate, I am ashamed to admit it is still in pieces in my garage since my head gasket failure in November. Spring came and with it a host of work outside. Maybe June is the time...
Yeah you're right, sorry to hear it's still out of action, that's why I'm hesitant to start any big repair jobs at the moment, I can imagine the car might stay on axle stands for a lot longer than anticipated 😅
you still have to set the "neutral" point so the computer can properly set the timing and doesn't run out of range. There's a procedure to do that but I can't remember exactly. There's also some connections you can make at the ignition computer to advance or retard the target ignition timing.
Edit: Google "Advance/retard timing on EZ116K" and check out the tubobricks forum result if you want to modify the timing on your LH2.4
would the offset be different for a carburetted volvo 240?
I saw it was anything from 10 up to 15 degrees btdc depending on the engine so it would be worth checking your engine code 👍
👍🏻
Have you considered upgrading the distributer to an electronic type? I wonder if this would help improve the chances of passing an emmissions test.
Unrelated to the video but I've been wondering if there's anyway to make a 1988 240 ulez compliant i live on the outskirts of london and would hate to give up driving mine come late August any ideas would be much appreciated mr involvod
Ah sorry to hear that, I'm always worried about that too. I'm really not sure what you can do, here they have a cold start system that you can fit to bring it to 'Euro 2' compliance, I don't know if it applies there. Are cars there over 40 years old allowed in those zones?
@Involvod they have to meet euro 4 standards to be ulez compliant unfortunately and yeah once it hits 40 years its clear of ulez and road tax would take another 5 years for me. I've heard the only way is to change the exhaust or the engine I'll have to do some more digging
Haha.. you have been using the ol time alive technology I see.. glad that you got things a bit better! Anyways, I'm kinda new to your channel, you seem to get around a but.. are you on the official UK owners forums? Also, are you UK based or did you have more sense? Lol hope you get what I mean
I'm not actually on any of the forums I'm not so keen on forums to be honest! As crazy as it might sound I actually wanted to stay in the UK but due to visa difficulties for the other half we had to go back to Germany, now we're in the countryside in Bavaria and it is very nice! Thanks for tuning in! 😀
Did i get it right that the 2 with LH Jet still has adjustable ignition?
I've never had a 2 or anything with a distributor on the block.
Yeah just the LH2.2, the later LH2.4 the dizzy is there but not adjustable
😁 I remember Sid used to speak like the aliens every time i phoned him.
Can you lend me some jet, my VATS kinda low
Good memories 😁
6:57
It's a bad idea to wear a loose scarf or a hoodie with draw strings while bending down over a running engine, or any machine with moving parts really.
Pefect, letting your pregnant wife turn the distributor. i cant even remember how many massive jolts ive had trough the years touching old distributors and leads while the engine was running, they have to be hardened from early age...
So he car failed TUV. How does that work in Germany? I see you driving the car.
In NL when your car fails, you're only allowed to drive straight home, and from there to the nearest garage for a next TUV (APK in NL) test.
So a garage which also does APK tests can ask what they want for a needed repair, because you can't go anywhere else if you can't do the repair yourself at home.
And no, if your car had still a few weeks APK according to your last years APK report, you can NOT drive the car another two weeks. The end date of the last years report is expired because your car failed the test TODAY.. This really s*cks in the NL
“Failed the emissions test” …is that a special TUV code for “you drive a Volvo”🥲
Haha, it's funny they normally always pass with flying colours here, this is the first time I've had problems!
@@Involvod I'm convinced the cat didn't heat up enough. it's half the cars length away from the engine so even idling isn't enough to heat it up properly.
@@Bassaliciousthe rich fueling on cold start up also helpt to heat up the cat. And now with correct ignition timing it will also start to workbearlier and better.
@@jfv65 that's true. my TÜV engineer told me that in his experience they may fail if not revved up for a bit before taking the measurement. I trust his expertise on that tbh