LOL, that is the first time I've seen someone use an impact to set tension. ...makes it hard to count the number of turns of the axle adjusters on left and right. I've always seen and heard that you should count the number of rotations and keep it even between the sides. Then, while the track is still off the ground, fire it up and spin the track a bit to see if it wants to run off to the left or right and do fine tuning to get it centered. But I guess I'm old school.
If you have the proper tool to measure the track tension it don't matter how you make your adjustment because you are setting it to a new nominal point. For guys like us we need to count because we need to move things incrementally to adjust from the set nominal point.
penetrating oil for a few hours and try some heat if it does not work try some more oil and heat a few times, this will usually break free most rusted bolts. You can also try hitting the dead of the bolt with a hammer to help the oil get in and to jar some of the rust, not to hard though.
Stiffen the rear of the skid via adjuster blocks, and/or tightening spring tension. Loosen up the tension on the front spring on the skid and/or tighten the limiter strap a notch or two.
Yep, never seen a sled/track that runs 100% true on the rails with exact tension on each side. One side always ends up being a little tighter. Not much, but some!! What I do is set both sides to the loosest possible as per the manufacturers recommendations, and then tighten it up and rotate the track with the sled running. I rotate it slowly for about a dozen rotations (more or less just run it for 10 seconds give or take). Then check the alignment of the track and tighten the side that has the most space between "nubs" and sliders. Don't tighten too much at once, maybe like 1/4 turn unless you're WAY off then maybe try 1/2. Tighten everything back up again and run the track. Once you have equal distance, I low temp loctite the rear axle wheels and torque them down. Don't forget to tighten up your jam nuts on the adjuster bolts also, if your sled has them.
that special tool is sold at every fish tackle shop
you took the words right out of my mouth...
xtidnab I thought that to
Get one at canadian tire in the fishing section 5.99
LOL, that is the first time I've seen someone use an impact to set tension. ...makes it hard to count the number of turns of the axle adjusters on left and right. I've always seen and heard that you should count the number of rotations and keep it even between the sides. Then, while the track is still off the ground, fire it up and spin the track a bit to see if it wants to run off to the left or right and do fine tuning to get it centered. But I guess I'm old school.
If you have the proper tool to measure the track tension it don't matter how you make your adjustment because you are setting it to a new nominal point. For guys like us we need to count because we need to move things incrementally to adjust from the set nominal point.
penetrating oil for a few hours and try some heat if it does not work try some more oil and heat a few times, this will usually break free most rusted bolts. You can also try hitting the dead of the bolt with a hammer to help the oil get in and to jar some of the rust, not to hard though.
My rev rear axle seems to be stuck I loosened up the adjustment screws but can not for.the life of me get the axle to slide. any advice?
What should i do if my tension bolt doesn't move its froze up.
How Do you adjust front strap on suspension? I put a 3" paddle track on my 2011 XP. It wheelies like crazy. it is 163" track. Summit X Etec 800.
Stiffen the rear of the skid via adjuster blocks, and/or tightening spring tension.
Loosen up the tension on the front spring on the skid and/or tighten the limiter strap a notch or two.
You happen to have a video on suspension. I have a 2009 summit hill climb. 154”. Like I don’t mind doing the odd tail stand but this machine will not.
And yes I’ve loosened the limiter strap already. Didn’t do much
Hello, is that tool still available, the link provided does not work :(
What about the alignment? Cant just tighten down like that. Itll be off to ine side. Gotta rotate track some then recheck. No?
Yep, never seen a sled/track that runs 100% true on the rails with exact tension on each side. One side always ends up being a little tighter. Not much, but some!! What I do is set both sides to the loosest possible as per the manufacturers recommendations, and then tighten it up and rotate the track with the sled running. I rotate it slowly for about a dozen rotations (more or less just run it for 10 seconds give or take). Then check the alignment of the track and tighten the side that has the most space between "nubs" and sliders. Don't tighten too much at once, maybe like 1/4 turn unless you're WAY off then maybe try 1/2. Tighten everything back up again and run the track. Once you have equal distance, I low temp loctite the rear axle wheels and torque them down. Don't forget to tighten up your jam nuts on the adjuster bolts also, if your sled has them.
@@neilsoftdotnet absolutely correct.
Guy makes good videos sucks at answering people that is same as a business don’t take more than you can handle