This is the best explanation of exposing to the right. An added way I could describe it is that white is every color added together and black is none. So more color information is in the right
This was not only your most informative video, it was one of the most informative videos I have watched on CZcams in an extremely long time. I loved the way you broke this down and explained it.
@@likiroki After hearing about ETTR twenty times I still wasn't sure what it meant(not my fault, it was poor explanation). Pretty simple.
Před 3 lety+23
This is the first time I've heard about how ISO 50 worked. I've been shooting all my photos at ISO 50... Well thankfully now I know. Better change it now then never. Great tips Nick. Thank you.
Remember though, the optimum iso is not always 100. For instance, the optimum iso for most professional cameras in the Nikon lineup has been 64 for the past 5 or 6 years at least, including D810, D850 and the Z lineup of cameras. But the same principles that Nick talks about do apply of course. Just not at the same numbers.
Před 3 lety
@@freetibet1000 I'm using the Sony fullframe system. Thanks for the heads up tho. If I ever change systems I'll have to keep that in mind.
@ Great! It helps to know what the optimum iso is for the actual camera model we use, not just the camera brand. For instance, not all Nikon cameras have iso 64 as the base iso either. And in the future this is likely to change for all camera brands and particular models again.
ISO 50 gives you cleaner photos with more color depth at the expense of dynamic range. ISO 100 gives you maximum dynamic range but more grain. You should use ISO 100 for scenes with more extreme cases in shadows and highlights and use ISO 50 for "flatter" photos, or photos where you can bracket. I still use ISO 50 more often than ISO 100 for the color definition, but I expose them to the middle and not the right. I don't know how much color loss ISO 50 has on the edges of the histogram, but you can always be safe and take a shot in ISO 50 and one at ISO 100 as a backup, or vice versa. The great thing about digital is that we don't have to stick to one ISO. When I'm not sure and I can't bracket, I take both ISOs
@@rauldeandrade Could you link a source of where you got this info? As far as I'm aware, ISO 50 wont give you any added benefit other than a lower exposure.
This is one of those vids that I save off, so I can watch it several times. All the way up to the parking lot, right before I step out for my shoot, haha. Great info sir. Thank you.
Also, a good thing to keep in mind is the histogram is based on the JPEG preview, so you do actually have a little wiggle room if you do blow out a few highlights, but this depends also on how blown out they are. But if you don't see much or any highlights, you're in good shape (sometimes if you have a little small area that's blown out on the blinkies screen, if you're shooting RAW you can often times get those highlights back because the RAW file contains more data than the JPEG). But I would still strive for no blinkies / highlight warning in the preview because that will ensure you don't have any blown highlights.
Sometimes Nick, you betray the fact, not only are you a creative person but intelligent as well. That's a wicked good combination. When left brain and right brain get together you get a beautiful mind.
Best exposure tip I have ever heard about putting the bulk your histogram in the highlight segment. I have been doing this for yours without articulating it the way you did here. Watching the histogram spread out when you adjust your highlights and shadows made the lights come on as to why I do what I do from years of trial and error.
Not only are your images awesome, but the way you explain things is straightforward, clear, and easy to understand for most anyone. Bravo! It’s things like this that make me want to sign up for a workshop with you when that sort of thing starts up again.
Hi Nick: The information contained in this video, is without doubt the best explanation of when to use Exposure Blending vs. ETTR. This has been extremely helpful. Cheers, Keith (Canada)
Nick's video tutorials on exposure blending from his website are the best there are (the only ones I actually understand!). He also shows some great techniques for dodging and burning using luminosity masks, which I now use all the time. I highly recommend them, and this video is a great introduction. Great stuff.
Very clear explanations Nick and picked up some tips. Oh...I suspect nearly EVERYONE has heard of Squarespace, they seem to sponsor nearly every photographer on CZcams! Merry Christmas from the UK, Stay safe.
This video ia a real public service, since so few people seem to understand the great revolution in digital sensor design in the past 12 years. I might suggest that people try a variation on bracketing. Take the simple case where you need only, say, three extra stops. Take one image, exposed to the right. Make a copy with three stops of exposure gain. Then set your sharpening and noise reduction separately for each copy. This will give either grainier or less-sharp deep shadows. However the images will almost exactly register since they are copies.
I think (I have never found technical documentation confirming) ISO 50 focuses the exposure curve and bit depth to the left at the expense of dynamic range and bit depth in the highlights. In practice I've always found ISO 50 cleaner as far as noise and with richer color depth exposing to the middle or to the left. This is why I bracket at ISO 50. Your photo of ISO 50 with color shift in the highlights is very interesting and something I've never noticed in my shots. I really wish there was more technical information on how the sensors work so we can better choose settings that better fit a given use case. Thank you so much for the wonderful video as always, you have a trove of information to share and I'm always grateful learning new things from you as well as the wonderful scenery. Keep it up :D
I feel like I know most all of this but I still watch cause you are so good and entertaining at it lol. And i know a good amount now largely because of you! Thanks for all you do brotha!!
Yep, really good solid technique. Where I live the weather is often unpredictable from one minute to another were everything changes so fast. Over the years I have become to understand that my real subject matter is movement within the landscape. Movement of light, shadow, weather and material forms, and so I have learnt to incorporate all of that into my exposure technique and routines, often making hundreds exposures of a scene in camera using a tripod. Sometimes I will ISO bracket from 200 to 6400 so as to get a grainy crunchy feel to the extreme shadows, and what helps further on in post production is to leave sharpness and noise reduction switched off.
Another way to align layers - set the blend mode of the top layer to "Difference." When not aligned, you'll see outlines of everything. When aligned, static objects will go completely black. It's VERY easy to see. When aligned, reset the blend mode to whatever is suitable for your plan for the image. Lighting the inside of the plane - Awesome!
Another good technique is to do nothing in LR or ACR other than export to PSCC creating smart objects. You can then use auto-align, turn them into smart objects and take them back into ACR to do whatever you have to.
Ah Nick, I didn’t know how much I’d missed hearing “it’s going to act like a stencil”. It’s time to get back to those PS courses for a refresher. Great video, man, thanks.
Nick!! others are saying it and I'll say it again.,. this was by far one of the best, most information dense, yet easy to take in videos. I have so much work to do. Thank you thank you thank you
Awesome vid Nick. I use ETTR for astro, but have never really considered it for other shots. Really good stuff. Technical, but not too technical. Anyone else mesmerized by the live audio meter behind Nick as well?
Expose to the right and Ignore the meter, just use the histogram and highlight alert, even if the image on the screen doesn't look right - that might just be the most life-changing advice I've been given in many years of photography. Can't wait start trying this.
A great vlog, Nick! I use Zebra warning rather than "blinkies" or the histogram for ETTR. One reason is that the blinkies seem to kick in before *true* blowout occurs in the raw file (somewhere below 240 out of a possible 255), presumably because it is assessing values in the jpeg rendition rather than the raw file. So I would suggest using a *custom* Zebra setting to about 108 on the Sony. I find that at that setting the Zebra warning kicks in at just below *true* highlight blowout. (I got this idea from Mark Galer's channel, btw.) I also prefer this method to examining the histogram which is not so easy to use on the Sony because it is kinda small. I'd love to hear your thoughts on this approach.
This is why i like using Capture One Pro..i can take a single image with the foreground exposing for the shadows and mask the sky and use luma range to recover the bright sky. Its super esy and i can stay in C1 to finish editing. All great things to keep in mind when shooting...thanks Nick.
Fantastic tutorial Mr Page ,been watching a lot of your videos over these last couple of weeks ,excellent . I'm new to photoshop and I'm finding it very daunting and I appreciate your videos so much . On a side note ,I normally loathe background music but I found your choice of music and volume level was perfection Sir ...
I love the selective blending, I have just used "hdr merge" in the past but this makes me want to redo those images with your approach. thanks for the education.
like every other video you have made always professional but in a language common folk can grasp (me) i think your down to earth presence & the way you explain things is brilliant , i think my favourite vid is the light painting one anyway great job again keep it up Thanks
Excellent! It is not long ago that one of your CZcams persr with a similar number of followers included ETTR in a list of the top ten most unhelpful pieces of advice he recieved when starting out because modern cameras allowed effective shadow recovery. Your point about data is well made I am amazed that people who would be appalled at the thought of a 50% decrease in the speed of their internet connection are happy to throw away 50% of the data in an image by deliberately under exposing by one stop.
Excellent video Nick! First time I've heard about dual-processing an image, but that makes so much sense. I've just arrived here from F4 Road Trip, and this is the first time in ages that I've binged a CZcams channel. Your images are sickeningly good 🙂 Just beautiful. It also means a lot that you like everyone's comments. I'm sure other CZcamsrs read (at least some of) our comments, but it's really good to see it explicitly.
Nick you kind of touched on this when you mentioned the 5Dm3 but I think something incredibly important to this entire lesson is your results will vary based on what camera you are using, specifically how new it is. As you pointed out shadow recovery has gotten so much better in the last couple of years allowing us to expose for highlights and recover shadows a lot more than in the past. However for any of your viewers who might be shooting on mid/low range cameras or older cameras they might not experience the same abilities you were able to showcase here.
Woah! I gotta say man, jaded ol' me learned quite a bit from this video. Mind a bit blown with the bit about iso50 vs iso100. I'm shooting on an A7iii and just always figured that the lower the iso, the better, but you just helped me make complete sense of why I often select my shots at 100 or 200 rather than the ones at 50 or 64.
This is, for sure, one of your best free instructional videos to date. Almost touching the premium level I would say. Even if one could figure out a lot of this by sheer trial and error, it is far better to have this information in the back of your head once you are out in the field, than finding out afterwards during post, with lower quality material to work with. Possibly spoiling an image that could be potentially awesome. Thanks a lot Nick! The content and your personality keeps your channel on a solid first place.
I've tested it myself using 5D Mark III. You can blow up your highlight in raw a little bit, because the warning is only for the jpg. By pulling down the highlight in post, you will recover those details as well
6 or 5.5years ago, I watched one of your vids for the first time, and you showed me the wonderful world of astrophotography. (6 months after i bought my SL1) along with Rokinon lenses. I am just now at this level to where i need and must learn this, and your explination are always understandable, clean, and precise. I have pugilistica dementia. Obtaining new info is difficult a lot of times, BUT all your teachings have begun to enter my long term memory, and my photography has skyrocket overnight. Many people ask me what camera did i upgrade to, and i love telling them that its my SL1. I always boast your channel. Thank you so very much for sharing your knowledge with the world sir! 😊 Much Love From Iowa 😁
Glad to hear you say that you look at the histogram, ignore the rest. Photography is about feeding light to your digital censor, or your film, people think photography is about manipulating your lens and camera, oh no.
Lot's of great tips in this video. As someone who shot primarily transparency film back in the day, I was familiar with "exposing for the highlights" but did not realize how this affected the digital sensor. Thank you for explaining that Nick.
Yes, back in the days when I was shooting film positives I had a habit of intentionally underexpose 2/3 - 1 1/3 for best results. That is usually not such a good idea in the digital world of today though.
A tip: when lining up two PS layers, temporarily set the blend mode on the top layer to "difference." It will make registering them easy. BTW, if I had a choice between background music in the video or silence, I pick silence.
yep I use that blend mode all the time, but I didn't want to get sucked into a rabbit hole about blend modes, I was trying to talk about something else.
Holy crap that was a lot of very cool info... even cooler was having it explained in a way that I will remember it!!! I thank myself for subscribing once I found you!!!
Dude can I just say that this video was the most helpful advice I have ever received for photography in a very long time. I went out to do seascape shooting recently and instead of exposing -1 EV like I normally do, I used ETTR and just took a separate shot for the highlights in the sky. The RAWs came out so much better. Thank you for putting together this video.
Damn...Wow such a great video, you just turn my world upside down. I usually tend to underexpose because it looks better on my screen. After seeing this I’m definitely going to use the info I’ve seen here. Subscribed👍
Thanks Nick! This is by far the clearest explanation and set of directions and procedures I have found about this subject of exposure control. Just wonderfully clear and so very helpful.
You have clarified this whole area for me Nick, I often bracket when there is moving objects like trees and then struggle to blend the images. I know better now, thanks.
First of your videos I've seen & I enjoyed. However, it must assume use of a tripod or prior understanding about length of exposure. ETTR requires longer exposure, which can introduce blur if hand-holding & is likely why you didn't go all to the right on your telephoto rolling hills shot...I feel you nearly said it. The 3 exposure blend at the end was lovely.
Great video as usual. Understanding luminosity masking makes selective blending much easier. Side note: the R6 has better dynamic range than my 5D Mark IV. I look forward to using it more in low-light situations.
Another nice vid. Because pushing the shutter button is so cheap in digital. I go to the left & the right in some of the scene types you showed here. I can then decide what I want to do in post later. As always, great content.
Thanks Nick, super helpful. Soo great getting this level of detail and the multiple examples really make it clear. Definitely learned a few things here.
Excellent and very useful video! I am subscribing now! I am trying to compensate a bit the dynamic range limitations of my APS-C camera. The information presented here is exactly what I was hoping for. Thank you!
Remember though, the optimum iso is not always 100. For instance, the optimum iso for most professional cameras in the Nikon lineup has been 64 for the past 5 or 6 years at least, including D810, D850 and the Z lineup of cameras. But the same principles that Nick talks about do apply of course. Just not at the same numbers.
This was a brilliant video done in such a subtle way. I learned more than I want to admit too. For almost a year I bracketed all the time. Lately I have stopped bracketing for everything but the situations you pointed out. However when I didn't bracket I did not ETTR because I did not understand it in the way you just taught it. This brought together a lot of things I have learned in a succinct way. Using luminosity masks as a selection to paint in the detail from another image really helped me understand how the two concepts differentiate. I think this video is going to help a lot of people become better photographers. Thank you Nick.
Good video Nick. I became disillusioned with luminosity masks a while ago as some of the example I was seeing were creating these muddy images where so much detail was recovered it didn't even look real. They absolutely have their place but I'm glad you pointed to the fact its not a style of photography but rather a tool for specific conditions.
Thanks Nick really helpful video, I don’t really shoot landscape more than to capture a trip out as a record of the day, but am just trying this on some people shots 😀 works well
I just bracket all the time. If anything is not good at the blending it is likely that one of my 9 photos would work as an ETTR alone. That increase my possibilities although in the case of trees I did get the movement point. If you have moved objects at the highlights just get a good exposure to the highlights use blending for the shadows instead. Anyway, for me they are not mutual eliminating concepts. Use both at the same case.
2 photography courses, one run by a very successful photographer in his own right, taught me to under expose on the side of caution. Maybe I misunderstood all this time. Obviously the "correct" exposure is always best, a balanced histogram if you're not going for a certain look. But never heard of exposing to the right until recently.
typically when you hear someone suggesting to underexpose, its because they shot a lot of film. In the old days, before digital... that was what the pros did. These days, because of how our sensors collect data, you ALWAYS want to expose as much as you can, before blowing any highlights. Thats why the histogram is king. I will look at my lcd.. compose my shot with a darker exposure that resembles the final result, then brighten the shot as much as I can before clipping any highlights.. and take the image. Underexposing on purpose is frankly, bad advice.
This is the best explanation of exposing to the right. An added way I could describe it is that white is every color added together and black is none. So more color information is in the right
This was not only your most informative video, it was one of the most informative videos I have watched on CZcams in an extremely long time. I loved the way you broke this down and explained it.
Wow, it was exactly what I thought through the middle of the video. Nick Page this is my first time seeing you and I'm really glad.
@@likiroki After hearing about ETTR twenty times I still wasn't sure what it meant(not my fault, it was poor explanation). Pretty simple.
This is the first time I've heard about how ISO 50 worked. I've been shooting all my photos at ISO 50... Well thankfully now I know. Better change it now then never. Great tips Nick. Thank you.
Remember though, the optimum iso is not always 100. For instance, the optimum iso for most professional cameras in the Nikon lineup has been 64 for the past 5 or 6 years at least, including D810, D850 and the Z lineup of cameras. But the same principles that Nick talks about do apply of course. Just not at the same numbers.
@@freetibet1000 I'm using the Sony fullframe system. Thanks for the heads up tho. If I ever change systems I'll have to keep that in mind.
@ Great! It helps to know what the optimum iso is for the actual camera model we use, not just the camera brand. For instance, not all Nikon cameras have iso 64 as the base iso either. And in the future this is likely to change for all camera brands and particular models again.
ISO 50 gives you cleaner photos with more color depth at the expense of dynamic range. ISO 100 gives you maximum dynamic range but more grain. You should use ISO 100 for scenes with more extreme cases in shadows and highlights and use ISO 50 for "flatter" photos, or photos where you can bracket. I still use ISO 50 more often than ISO 100 for the color definition, but I expose them to the middle and not the right. I don't know how much color loss ISO 50 has on the edges of the histogram, but you can always be safe and take a shot in ISO 50 and one at ISO 100 as a backup, or vice versa. The great thing about digital is that we don't have to stick to one ISO. When I'm not sure and I can't bracket, I take both ISOs
@@rauldeandrade Could you link a source of where you got this info? As far as I'm aware, ISO 50 wont give you any added benefit other than a lower exposure.
This is one of those vids that I save off, so I can watch it several times. All the way up to the parking lot, right before I step out for my shoot, haha. Great info sir. Thank you.
Also, a good thing to keep in mind is the histogram is based on the JPEG preview, so you do actually have a little wiggle room if you do blow out a few highlights, but this depends also on how blown out they are. But if you don't see much or any highlights, you're in good shape (sometimes if you have a little small area that's blown out on the blinkies screen, if you're shooting RAW you can often times get those highlights back because the RAW file contains more data than the JPEG). But I would still strive for no blinkies / highlight warning in the preview because that will ensure you don't have any blown highlights.
Sometimes Nick, you betray the fact, not only are you a creative person but intelligent as well. That's a wicked good combination. When left brain and right brain get together you get a beautiful mind.
My mind is now blinkening, blendably, full. Thanks
Stay safe.Peace
Absolutley loved the Elder Scrolls: Oblivion-sounding music in the background
Best exposure tip I have ever heard about putting the bulk your histogram in the highlight segment. I have been doing this for yours without articulating it the way you did here. Watching the histogram spread out when you adjust your highlights and shadows made the lights come on as to why I do what I do from years of trial and error.
Not only are your images awesome, but the way you explain things is straightforward, clear, and easy to understand for most anyone. Bravo! It’s things like this that make me want to sign up for a workshop with you when that sort of thing starts up again.
I really appreciate that thank you.. some people try to sound wise when the speak.. I just try to get my info across with common simple language
Hi Nick: The information contained in this video, is without doubt the best explanation of when to use Exposure Blending vs. ETTR. This has been extremely helpful. Cheers, Keith (Canada)
One of the best explanations for ETTR I have ever heard. Great information and great video. Thanks man.
Nick's video tutorials on exposure blending from his website are the best there are (the only ones I actually understand!). He also shows some great techniques for dodging and burning using luminosity masks, which I now use all the time. I highly recommend them, and this video is a great introduction. Great stuff.
I appreciate that! Thank you!
Very clear explanations Nick and picked up some tips. Oh...I suspect nearly EVERYONE has heard of Squarespace, they seem to sponsor nearly every photographer on CZcams! Merry Christmas from the UK, Stay safe.
Great explanation with examples to illustrate when to use exposure bracketing and ETTR. Well done and thank you for your clarity.
Thank you so much for explaining ETTR in terms of depth of data capture. Lightbulb moment for me. It'll change the way I expose images.
Great point on the ISO 50 vs. 100. Never knew that it would inadvertently clip highlights.
This video ia a real public service, since so few people seem to understand the great revolution in digital sensor design in the past 12 years. I might suggest that people try a variation on bracketing. Take the simple case where you need only, say, three extra stops. Take one image, exposed to the right. Make a copy with three stops of exposure gain. Then set your sharpening and noise reduction separately for each copy. This will give either grainier or less-sharp deep shadows. However the images will almost exactly register since they are copies.
I think (I have never found technical documentation confirming) ISO 50 focuses the exposure curve and bit depth to the left at the expense of dynamic range and bit depth in the highlights. In practice I've always found ISO 50 cleaner as far as noise and with richer color depth exposing to the middle or to the left. This is why I bracket at ISO 50.
Your photo of ISO 50 with color shift in the highlights is very interesting and something I've never noticed in my shots. I really wish there was more technical information on how the sensors work so we can better choose settings that better fit a given use case.
Thank you so much for the wonderful video as always, you have a trove of information to share and I'm always grateful learning new things from you as well as the wonderful scenery. Keep it up :D
I feel like I know most all of this but I still watch cause you are so good and entertaining at it lol. And i know a good amount now largely because of you! Thanks for all you do brotha!!
Yep, really good solid technique. Where I live the weather is often unpredictable from one minute to another were everything changes so fast. Over the years I have become to understand that my real subject matter is movement within the landscape. Movement of light, shadow, weather and material forms, and so I have learnt to incorporate all of that into my exposure technique and routines, often making hundreds exposures of a scene in camera using a tripod. Sometimes I will ISO bracket from 200 to 6400 so as to get a grainy crunchy feel to the extreme shadows, and what helps further on in post production is to leave sharpness and noise reduction switched off.
Another way to align layers - set the blend mode of the top layer to "Difference." When not aligned, you'll see outlines of everything. When aligned, static objects will go completely black. It's VERY easy to see. When aligned, reset the blend mode to whatever is suitable for your plan for the image.
Lighting the inside of the plane - Awesome!
Another good technique is to do nothing in LR or ACR other than export to PSCC creating smart objects. You can then use auto-align, turn them into smart objects and take them back into ACR to do whatever you have to.
Ah Nick, I didn’t know how much I’d missed hearing “it’s going to act like a stencil”. It’s time to get back to those PS courses for a refresher. Great video, man, thanks.
Wow...for the first time I think I get the ETTR concept.
Great video man...thanks for this
As I'm progressing in my post processing education, Nick Page and Greg Benz are becoming my go to teachers.
Nick!! others are saying it and I'll say it again.,. this was by far one of the best, most information dense, yet easy to take in videos. I have so much work to do. Thank you thank you thank you
Awesome vid Nick. I use ETTR for astro, but have never really considered it for other shots. Really good stuff. Technical, but not too technical. Anyone else mesmerized by the live audio meter behind Nick as well?
Hey, a very good video.
Great content, good music in the backround. Not too long, not to short. Fine!
Thanks from Germany.
I was there yesterday at Boot Arch , alabama hills !
That was the best explanation of "exposing for the highlights" that I've heard yet. Thank you!
Expose to the right and Ignore the meter, just use the histogram and highlight alert, even if the image on the screen doesn't look right - that might just be the most life-changing advice I've been given in many years of photography. Can't wait start trying this.
A great vlog, Nick!
I use Zebra warning rather than "blinkies" or the histogram for ETTR. One reason is that the blinkies seem to kick in before *true* blowout occurs in the raw file (somewhere below 240 out of a possible 255), presumably because it is assessing values in the jpeg rendition rather than the raw file. So I would suggest using a *custom* Zebra setting to about 108 on the Sony. I find that at that setting the Zebra warning kicks in at just below *true* highlight blowout. (I got this idea from Mark Galer's channel, btw.) I also prefer this method to examining the histogram which is not so easy to use on the Sony because it is kinda small. I'd love to hear your thoughts on this approach.
Up until today, I had only seen your gear review videos. I was definitely missing out. Such great tutorials man!
Wow really? I recommend my in the field videos over the others
This is why i like using Capture One Pro..i can take a single image with the foreground exposing for the shadows and mask the sky and use luma range to recover the bright sky. Its super esy and i can stay in C1 to finish editing. All great things to keep in mind when shooting...thanks Nick.
Fantastic tutorial Mr Page ,been watching a lot of your videos over these last couple of weeks ,excellent . I'm new to photoshop and I'm finding it very daunting and I appreciate your videos so much . On a side note ,I normally loathe background music but I found your choice of music and volume level was perfection Sir ...
I love the selective blending, I have just used "hdr merge" in the past but this makes me want to redo those images with your approach. thanks for the education.
like every other video you have made always professional but in a language common folk can grasp (me) i think your down to earth presence & the way you explain things is brilliant , i think my favourite vid is the light painting one anyway great job again keep it up Thanks
Excellent! It is not long ago that one of your CZcams persr with a similar number of followers included ETTR in a list of the top ten most unhelpful pieces of advice he recieved when starting out because modern cameras allowed effective shadow recovery. Your point about data is well made I am amazed that people who would be appalled at the thought of a 50% decrease in the speed of their internet connection are happy to throw away 50% of the data in an image by deliberately under exposing by one stop.
Excellent video Nick! First time I've heard about dual-processing an image, but that makes so much sense. I've just arrived here from F4 Road Trip, and this is the first time in ages that I've binged a CZcams channel. Your images are sickeningly good 🙂 Just beautiful. It also means a lot that you like everyone's comments. I'm sure other CZcamsrs read (at least some of) our comments, but it's really good to see it explicitly.
Fantastic video Nick. A really well explained process that seems almost obvious when simplified in such a clear way. Have a good one. 👍
Great video Nick, very informative. Never considered blending 2 edits of the same file before.
Fantastic video Nick personally think its one of your best tutorial vlogs.
I like the way all is explained. Clear and with beautiful examples, thanks
Great explaining how to work a photo with editing in mind for the best outcome.
this is the best discussion and details relating to how to expose and why to expose for the highlights. Very Good :)
Nick you kind of touched on this when you mentioned the 5Dm3 but I think something incredibly important to this entire lesson is your results will vary based on what camera you are using, specifically how new it is. As you pointed out shadow recovery has gotten so much better in the last couple of years allowing us to expose for highlights and recover shadows a lot more than in the past. However for any of your viewers who might be shooting on mid/low range cameras or older cameras they might not experience the same abilities you were able to showcase here.
Woah! I gotta say man, jaded ol' me learned quite a bit from this video. Mind a bit blown with the bit about iso50 vs iso100. I'm shooting on an A7iii and just always figured that the lower the iso, the better, but you just helped me make complete sense of why I often select my shots at 100 or 200 rather than the ones at 50 or 64.
This was a really great video with clear explanation of the why behind the concept. well done.
You’re a great teacher Nick.
This is, for sure, one of your best free instructional videos to date. Almost touching the premium level I would say. Even if one could figure out a lot of this by sheer trial and error, it is far better to have this information in the back of your head once you are out in the field, than finding out afterwards during post, with lower quality material to work with. Possibly spoiling an image that could be potentially awesome.
Thanks a lot Nick! The content and your personality keeps your channel on a solid first place.
Double RAW editing is going to change my work flow for sure, never thought of doing that!
I've tested it myself using 5D Mark III. You can blow up your highlight in raw a little bit, because the warning is only for the jpg. By pulling down the highlight in post, you will recover those details as well
Loved how you explained your editing process. Thanks
Fantastic information sharing there Nick. As an amature, I find your insight invaluable.
6 or 5.5years ago, I watched one of your vids for the first time, and you showed me the wonderful world of astrophotography. (6 months after i bought my SL1) along with Rokinon lenses.
I am just now at this level to where i need and must learn this, and your explination are always understandable, clean, and precise. I have pugilistica dementia. Obtaining new info is difficult a lot of times, BUT all your teachings have begun to enter my long term memory, and my photography has skyrocket overnight.
Many people ask me what camera did i upgrade to, and i love telling them that its my SL1. I always boast your channel. Thank you so very much for sharing your knowledge with the world sir! 😊
Much Love From Iowa 😁
This was so informative! I've tried the ETTR with my small Olympus camera and I get much much cleaner images! Thanks a lot Nick
Fantastic tutorial Nick. Great info. Amazing images here. Thanks.
Glad to hear you say that you look at the histogram, ignore the rest. Photography is about feeding light to your digital censor, or your film, people think photography is about manipulating your lens and camera, oh no.
Such a great video, you truly are one of the best photographers I know!
Lot's of great tips in this video. As someone who shot primarily transparency film back in the day, I was familiar with "exposing for the highlights" but did not realize how this affected the digital sensor. Thank you for explaining that Nick.
Yes, back in the days when I was shooting film positives I had a habit of intentionally underexpose 2/3 - 1 1/3 for best results. That is usually not such a good idea in the digital world of today though.
Thanks Nick. during this video the light turned on, and I realized what I needed to do to make my photography better...... happy new year....
Thanks Nick for explaining exposing to the right in an easy to understand manor!
OMG! I finally understand this. And now it seems obvious! Thanks for such a clear explanation without condescension.
Impressive video. I will definitely spend more time thinking about post processing when I am shooting.
zero unlike...that SAYS IT ALL! thanks Nick for all of this straightforward informations!
Give it time.. it will come haha
Great stuff as usual, thank you. It would be great to see how you blended the last shot.
So much information here. Thank you. Going to save and revisit ... often. Thanks!
A tip: when lining up two PS layers, temporarily set the blend mode on the top layer to "difference." It will make registering them easy. BTW, if I had a choice between background music in the video or silence, I pick silence.
yep I use that blend mode all the time, but I didn't want to get sucked into a rabbit hole about blend modes, I was trying to talk about something else.
This is like 5 videos worth of info in one with a nice flow. Easy to understand
As usual, Nick puts some meat on the bone in this one. Not just a bunch of talking he actually gives some valuable tips and insight.
Holy crap that was a lot of very cool info... even cooler was having it explained in a way that I will remember it!!! I thank myself for subscribing once I found you!!!
Well Nick over 1.1K thumbs up and no thumbs down ...
Chapeau brother !!
Dude can I just say that this video was the most helpful advice I have ever received for photography in a very long time. I went out to do seascape shooting recently and instead of exposing -1 EV like I normally do, I used ETTR and just took a separate shot for the highlights in the sky. The RAWs came out so much better. Thank you for putting together this video.
Damn...Wow such a great video, you just turn my world upside down. I usually tend to underexpose because it looks better on my screen. After seeing this I’m definitely going to use the info I’ve seen here. Subscribed👍
Thanks Nick! This is by far the clearest explanation and set of directions and procedures I have found about this subject of exposure control. Just wonderfully clear and so very helpful.
Good explanations, thank you.
You have clarified this whole area for me Nick, I often bracket when there is moving objects like trees and then struggle to blend the images. I know better now, thanks.
Excellent presentation Nick.
Awesome video Nik! Always very clear and useful presentation! Thanks
First of your videos I've seen & I enjoyed. However, it must assume use of a tripod or prior understanding about length of exposure. ETTR requires longer exposure, which can introduce blur if hand-holding & is likely why you didn't go all to the right on your telephoto rolling hills shot...I feel you nearly said it. The 3 exposure blend at the end was lovely.
Very awesome info. With an example, you make it easy to learn. Thanks a lot Nick (kk guru) 🙏👍
It’s been a while, but I’m glad I’ve come back to this channel
thank you nick! Just got to know ETTR is that helpful in improving image quality!
Great video as usual. Understanding luminosity masking makes selective blending much easier. Side note: the R6 has better dynamic range than my 5D Mark IV. I look forward to using it more in low-light situations.
Another nice vid. Because pushing the shutter button is so cheap in digital. I go to the left & the right in some of the scene types you showed here. I can then decide what I want to do in post later. As always, great content.
Great video, I especially like the Aurora photo at the end.
The aurora picture blown my mind at the end! He just left it for a couple of seconds but it fell like m: Boom!! (Mic dropped)
Thanks Nick, super helpful. Soo great getting this level of detail and the multiple examples really make it clear. Definitely learned a few things here.
Excellent and very useful video! I am subscribing now! I am trying to compensate a bit the dynamic range limitations of my APS-C camera. The information presented here is exactly what I was hoping for. Thank you!
I didn't know about the base ISO and going under that being an issue, Thank you!
Remember though, the optimum iso is not always 100. For instance, the optimum iso for most professional cameras in the Nikon lineup has been 64 for the past 5 or 6 years at least, including D810, D850 and the Z lineup of cameras. But the same principles that Nick talks about do apply of course. Just not at the same numbers.
Great lesson Nick. Thanks!
I am in awe of the amount of technical knowledge you have. Thank you for sharing these tips!
This was a brilliant video done in such a subtle way. I learned more than I want to admit too. For almost a year I bracketed all the time. Lately I have stopped bracketing for everything but the situations you pointed out. However when I didn't bracket I did not ETTR because I did not understand it in the way you just taught it. This brought together a lot of things I have learned in a succinct way. Using luminosity masks as a selection to paint in the detail from another image really helped me understand how the two concepts differentiate. I think this video is going to help a lot of people become better photographers. Thank you Nick.
Good video Nick. I became disillusioned with luminosity masks a while ago as some of the example I was seeing were creating these muddy images where so much detail was recovered it didn't even look real. They absolutely have their place but I'm glad you pointed to the fact its not a style of photography but rather a tool for specific conditions.
Don't remember hearing this topic on the many many photo how vids I've watched explained this way. Its an easy way to understand.
Thanks Nick, from Nick. Hope you have a Merry Christmas.
Thanks Nick really helpful video, I don’t really shoot landscape more than to capture a trip out as a record of the day, but am just trying this on some people shots 😀 works well
I just bracket all the time. If anything is not good at the blending it is likely that one of my 9 photos would work as an ETTR alone. That increase my possibilities although in the case of trees I did get the movement point. If you have moved objects at the highlights just get a good exposure to the highlights use blending for the shadows instead. Anyway, for me they are not mutual eliminating concepts. Use both at the same case.
Wow thank you I had no idea I had a highlight alert on my camera
2 photography courses, one run by a very successful photographer in his own right, taught me to under expose on the side of caution. Maybe I misunderstood all this time. Obviously the "correct" exposure is always best, a balanced histogram if you're not going for a certain look. But never heard of exposing to the right until recently.
typically when you hear someone suggesting to underexpose, its because they shot a lot of film. In the old days, before digital... that was what the pros did. These days, because of how our sensors collect data, you ALWAYS want to expose as much as you can, before blowing any highlights. Thats why the histogram is king. I will look at my lcd.. compose my shot with a darker exposure that resembles the final result, then brighten the shot as much as I can before clipping any highlights.. and take the image. Underexposing on purpose is frankly, bad advice.
Do you also expose to the right you base image when you're about to bracket? All the best for 2021 Nick!