Jeep Liberty Rack And Pinion Replace Under 2 Hrs
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- čas přidán 10. 09. 2024
- In this video we rack em up and roll em out...in less than two hours! Yes we know what the book time says but we have ways...ways to save you time and money. Watch this video to learn how to replace your Jeep Liberty steering rack and pinion in under two hours. Impress your friends, your boss, your wife. Heck, your wife will figure it takes at least six hours to replace and youll have time to hang out at the hair salon or even the gym like me!
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As a fellow CZcamsr myself I know the amount of time it takes to make a video. I want to say I really appreciate the time you took to share this. I just finished my under 2 hrs rack R and R. The tricks you show really make it very simple to do. I am blessed in having a two post host so that does help. Having the passenger side lower control arm out makes it even easier.
I was replacing the lower bushings when I noticed the rubber boot on the rack was full of fluid. I found your video and it made it a breeze to do it. Only thing I did different is I removed the lower valances to make the line of sight easier. Once again thanks!!!
Awesome!
I used this video as a guide to do this job in my driveway. I took my time and spread it across a couple of days, but I also had to replace the power steering lines and do a brake job while the Jeep was in the air. Thanks for the video and the GREAT shots with the GoPro!
This is a great video! It only took me about 5 hours to swap out the rack, pump, and lines; and flush the system.
The only thing not mentioned in the video is taking out the fan and shroud. My jeep has the extra tow package fan installed on the engine, and without first removing the fan shroud it is impossible to get the lines disconnected from the rack, or remove the steering pump.
After watching the struggle to get the tie rod ends off, I also opted to install new tie rods and jam nuts.
I dont know why, but I freakin love the sound an impact wrench makes; puts a smile on my face every time!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. It easily saved me hours of labor this morning. Much appreciated!
Man what a lifesaver! Fought with it for almost 2 hours until I watched this video! Came right out! Thanks again.
very nice!
Thank you for recording this!
Nephew replaced pump this summer and now rack is going in my 20 yr old Jeep Liberty. Drove it 3000 miles with no problems until hitting 2° in Connecticut cracking radiator.
Have all the rack and pinion symptoms except leaking.
I'm 62 yrs old, no strength in hands anymore, don't have my own tools or garage with a lift.
Disabled on fixed income so I saved a lot of $ doing ignition actuator switch myself in October. Replaced thermostat myself with help of landlord in November saving myself over $800. Dang they wanted $350 for ignition switch actuator which was only a $30 part taking 30 minutes and was easy. They wanted $450 to replace thermostat only taking an hour by the time I drained coolant and $25 for thermostat. Wonder what a shop will ask cuz I'm not sure I can do this unless my 73 yr old landlord who does have all tools needed, engine hoist, and garage.
My poor 20 yr old AZ Jeep hasn't been happy with cold temps since moving back home to Maine January 2022 🤦♀️
When do I stop sinking $ into it❓❓
We've got a couple customers with Liberty's... thanks for sharing this time saver!
You bet. If they put 80K miles on them they will be needing a rack before long.
The Car Doctor nice shortcut,but I’ve got 250000 on mine with no signs of letting up, go figure!
At 90k miles I replaced mine !
Hey I wanted to say thank you. I replaced all moving components including the rack and this video help one hell of a lot.
THANK YOU FOR THE HELP!
Nicely done. Feeling much more confident tackling this after watching your walkthrough.
Good job Tim. Good on ya for figuring out how to shorten the R&R process. Huge time savings and a job still done correctly. I agree; Anchorage is beautiful!
Thanks and I appreciate you watching
WOW, time saving on that scale is rare indeed. Love the way you 'power through' torn glove not withstanding :) Keep 'em coming, that was a great vid.
Thanks! Those cheap gloves are sad. Boy it was just a rag hanging on my hand by the time I had finished. haha
Your approach to doing this job was great !! ...both from the video overview of doing the job and its clarity. It took me 2 days but I am 70 and considering the $$ I saved it was very worth my efforts...not to mention the cuddos from my chess group!!! I replaced the steer pump as well. So far the jeep steers much better and no leaks. I am a happy ole puppy. ps- wiggling the rack out passenger side works with rack steer shaft pointing forward in front of engine main pulley and that oil shield does need to come out.
Thank you for the different angles. It shows you want a good quality video so that it really helps us in removing it ourselves
Awesome tip Tim! I have not done one on a Liberty but surely will one day. Can't believe you did not have to support anything...nice job. You are really helping fellow tech's. It's amazing what tips we can find on youtube. I use it a lot to assist in repairs. There are so many vehicles and issues out there it is virtually impossible to know all the tips and tricks.
Thanks. Yes, CZcams is more and more valuable to techs and DIY folks alike. It's changed the way I wrench! Take care.
Who Loves Baby?? WE DO!! -- Keep rockin and rolling Bruddah - we be right here with ya!
I have a 2009 Jeep Liberty Rocky Mountain Edition and it sat for a month needing tires, nothing was wrong with it at all (except for tires) then i started it and it was leaking power steering fluid, not sure if its a line or rack and pinion. It was dripping pretty good in the middle kinda between the radiator and where the engine begins, thats thr only way i can explain it. No one has looked under it yet to see where its coming from. I hope its not rack and pinion. I bought it 2 years ago from a used car dealer. Already replaced the oil pan and tranny lines are rusting, flaking. Wish you were in Maine🙂
Another very helpful video Tim. Thank you
Excellent video. As others have said you can shorten it even more. I have done several and I just remove the passenger side front control arm bolt and drop the diff on that side only. One less cam bolt and diff hanger bolt to deal with and the rack slides out perfectly. Cuts another 5 to 10 minutes. In this biz...time is money. And in response to the guy who asked if the customer was billed 2 or 5...it's 5 all day long. We get paid for what we know and experience and quality work deserve fair compensation, not to mention time writing the RO, ordering the part, returning the core etc.etc.etc Again...great video.
I got a faster way to remove it 30mnts or less if you nee help let me know
Ricky fredriko you have a video?
Very useful video. The RH rubber grommet / bushing that isolates that 18MM bolts had dissolved thanks to an oil leak from the aftercooler, I drive a CRD. I think my rack is fine unless that leak oil too.
You are a man after my own heart. You were trying to get that tie rod off and I'm sayin Tim don'tcha got a pipe wrench and on que you break out a pipe wrench and get the sucker off.
Nice time saver. Now that I've done a ps rack I know that while the write up with the new rack says it's at it's center point that may not be true and it's easy to find it. Another time saving tip from Tim the tip man Taylor.
If the shaft was 360* out it would be pretty obvious on a rack because the ends would be different but those traditional gear type steering boxes aren't so obvious and when the pitman arm goes on any number of possible locations its sometimes hard to guess without turning all the way in one direction then counting to the opposite stop and bringing it back half way. I actually broke a clockspring once and it was super sad. I hope I don't make that mistake again. About the time I learn from my mistakes they invent another way to trick me into damaging someones car. I think they are out to get me.
Oh yeah I that's how I found the center but with the rack out of the car, no wheel turning here. Mine was off 90 degrees but by doing the left, right, center found out the new rack was off and not the old one. It's just another thing I will check before doing another rack replacement. But being the Dr and seeing more patients then I do you have more patience that I do. I think I said that wright write rite right correct.
Thanks Professor
is it possible to replace the rack and pinion bushing without removing the whole assembly? thanks.
Thank you very much for the video...it helped a lot. I didn't have to remove the oil filter and it fit right in.
Very nice! Good job.
Awesome video. Great videography as well. You’re a Master
Thanks Tim for another great video. I really appreciate your camera work. Sure must take you a lot of time to keep moving the camera around for the best viewing angle. Know that your efforts are enjoyed and appreciated.
Thanks for noticing. The camera can be super frustrating. My new mic cord is constantly getting tangled in my feet and I can't tell you how many videos I have just given up on because it got too frustrating and I decided I didn't have the time because of the workload that day. It's very satisfying when folks like yourself recognize the efforts and the video actually helps some people. It makes it all worth while! Blessings!
thanks for the vid..you have tremendous patience,. I am encouraged to fix my 04 now...Q...was it a 'vent tube' you installed near the end.? and for the tie rods, did u count the threads . how did u measure em up to get em close ?
Very good job Tim !!! My rack and pinion is leaking power steering fluid. I don't see it leaking when i got home from work, but i saw it on the ground the next day.
Well done Tim. I replaced the oil pressure sender . Haha it fell apart getting it out. I never want to do that job again , what a complete screw up I made out of it haha but it's all done.
So that must have been the problem all along I guess. Nice work brother!
Thank you! Help out a ton!
Really helped out a lot
Nicely done Tim. I love a time saving tip. Cheers 🍻
Thanks, it will save you about 3.5 hours over pulling the diff, axles and control arms. Enough time to chop a hole in the ice and catch dinner at one of your local lakes!
The Car Doctor aww
Nice work Tim. Those flat rate guys are going to love the tips!
You got my sub off your disclaimer 😂😂😂
I caught my arm on fire after I cut it off. Thank you for the great video though
Kroil is the best! Expensive but only takes a small amount
Thanks that was very helpful in deciding to do it myself or have a shop do it. I have an '05 CRD - Do you think it would be similar to the removal of the one you show on your video?
Free's All is the best spray. Idk how you get it but I do. I'm not telling either. But actually clean motor oil first, soak, heat, trans fluid to use conditioners to clean it. And scrub rust off bolts first. Get a good bite, leverage is key. Never try force first with rust.
At mark 6:40 there is a faster way. I cut the bolt head off so I don't have to mess with the lower control arm. Then install a new bolt backwards.
You need new lower control arm bushings anyways. Take them out. Do it right.
Slayer is probably right. Every kind of vehicle that has this style body, I don’t care if it’s a gmc jimmy or a ford escape; nine times out of ten those control arms aren’t as fantastic as they once were..
I'm in the middle of doing this job also.. I thought if you just dropped the differential and front bolts on the control arms that you could get it out that way. Thanks for confirming.
Just cut the bolts on the front diff and replace going the other direction. A lot of extra work there.
Will this work on newer liberty too? I have a 2012 4wd liberty I seen another video saying you had to take the front end off and drop front differential
U make it look easy nice job .
Good work Tim ! Good info on saving some time .
Live saving time as long as it's done right in the end. Thanks for the encouragement
Very clever and informative
Thank you, glad you watched!
Another good video Tim, Thanks.
I appreciate that, Thanks for dropping by!
what are you using to clean the area .....brake clean?
How much would you typically charge to supply and install this??
Bloody hell, that extention is long, the other end has its own time zone :)
Dam good short cut :-), the book version sounds like a haynes manual.
"Cut your arm off, break your head open, spill your guts out, and catch on fire"
Now that would be an unfortunate and annoying day LOL :-D :-D
haha, I bet if I spilled that much blood on video I would finally get the views ive been wanting!
But you would be dead, thats no good, we dont want that :-(
Keep up the good work, your customers are lucky they have a honest mechanic that thinks about there safety more than the money.
Some just don care :-(
Thanks. I think there are a few techs who do it for all the right reasons. I try to not die every day here. I sometimes wonder how im still alive after all these years of doing this work. One time a car fell on one of the other techs at our shop. He was holding the front of the car up when we came to see what had happened. Lucky for him it didn't squish him. I have almost been ran over I don't know how many times. Caught on fire way too many times to count (once last week) God must still have plans for me. Blessings my friend!
Nice tip & video & I'm glad you didn't demonstrate how to crack your cranium, catch on fire or implode/explode for entertainment purposes... I use the Mityvac MITMVA670 Power Steering Air Bleed Adapter Kit and it works great.
Oh wow, that sucks all the air out? I'll have to check that out. I'm also glad I didn't spill blood even if just for entertainment value. Haha
Oh wow, that sucks all the air out? I'll have to check that out. I'm also glad I didn't spill blood even if just for entertainment value. Haha
Oh wow, that sucks all the air out? I'll have to check that out. I'm also glad I didn't spill blood even if just for entertainment value. Haha
Thank you for this
Hopefully you are still around, watching your vid im trying to figure out what bolts i wanted to replace and i cant figure out what they are. Im thinking differential bolts? the bolts that are facing "the wrong" way, you gotta remove the lower control arm bolt to access them. What are those bolts?
I did a rack on a 2005 liberty sport. I didn't touch any of the differential or control arm bolts. it did barely wiggle out of the right side. I believe I did remove the crank pulley for a bit of room. I don't think it was necessary. This liberty looks like a renegade model so it may have a differnent differential up front. I believe the book wants you to remove the whole differential assembly which is crazy
Ive tried on these without lowering the diff and it didn't seem to have enough room. I never pulled the crank pulley however. I'll have to check that one out.
The Car Doctor You can cut the time on this job in half most likely.. I did the rack on jack stands. It was a weekend side job. It does take some/maybe alot of twisting out the passenger side. It will come out.
Nice i think i need this done what is a fair price to pay to have this done?
Well done! Enjoy your videos
Thank you so much. It was a fun project. Appreciate you dropping by.
Is it possible to pinch off the radiator hoses, drain and remove the radiator, remove both inner tie rod ends, remove steering lines, and the mounting bolts to the rack and lift it up through the top?? Jw
I might of missed it but what are you using at the end to clean everything
Brake clean
i like how you just pull those cam bolt out with your hands wish it was that easy around here
I don't know why all mechanics don't move to Alaska. Haha
We'd all be so embarrassed by your talents and couldn't get a customer base going. Better to stay here and suffer looking at all the girls walking by in bikini's. It's so boring here.
I thought of setting up shop on the island but afraid none of the locals would take their car to me
With your wild and freaky haircut - You'd fit right in with all of the locals. They'd probably take everyone home and feed all of you until you did a 30 second non-stop burp.
Great video Tim. I hope mine goes this smooth tomorrow. Just curious, did I see you tighten the steering supply lines once after the rack bolts got tightened and once after the cam bolts got tightened? Did you forget to double check that the o-rings were in place or something? I'm writing down the order of operations here and got confused. I assume they really just need to go on some time before the skid plate and when they go on isn't super critical.
God bless mechanics
Nice job Doc!!
Thank you kind sir.
Doctor, you didn't install the plastic-oil-drip trough in reverse order. I followed the video and struggled for at least two hours trying to get the thing in and it would not go. There was no way. I turned that thing every which way and finally gave up and took things apart again in order to put the trough in place.
The replacement orings are they regular round orings or are they square cut
I use 50% mix of automatic transmission and acetone. Works good a penetrating fluid. I call it "Panther Piss"
Nice! Sounds like some good stuff. Might be good in your coffee when you need that little extra boost in the morning. :)
Wonderful disclaimer, I subscribed. Any recommendations on brands for Rack and pinion sets?
Thanks for subscribing! IM not aware of any high quality rack reman companies since they are all hit and miss and we only have limited availability here. Just deal with a supplier who will stand behind their product and give support if there is an issue I guess. Or pay big bucks at the dealership. Good luck.
Rockauto.com has some pretty strong parts at a wholesale price.
i just cut the diff mounting bolts and replace them with new ones instead of messing with the lower control arms , put them in the opposite way so it isnt such a pain if theres a next time
If you replace them with shorter bolts that's fine but if they stick out very far they will rub on the threaded end when you go over bumps. But yes, that's one way of doing it. I like saving time! Take care!
Great video, my daughters boyfriend and I followed your video step by step and did this job in about 6 hours. We had a few more delays. Had to run out to buy rack n pinion bushings and crow feet wrenches. Was wondering if there are torque specs I should have used when putting things back together?
there are specs but since they vary between year models I sometimes don't include those in the video. Check out autozone.com and see if they have the info there or of course you can buy a manual or finally just pray something doesn't come loose and fall off. hahaha Thanks for watching
Am I the only one who hates where the oil filter is on these things?
No you are not...haha
Just remove the inner tie rod ends and stabilization bar. Its a lot easier.
lol true, here in Connecticut sodium chloride laughs at wd40, pb and heat is my daily routine
Don't know if I could do it. I had a Chevy Silverado the other day with a rusted rear upper shock mount. I had to fab a new section of crossmember and weld a new mount on it. I burnt up my shirt and my belly even though I was wearing my welding jacket and had it buttoned up. Just a whiff of PB leaves me with a splitting headache for the day. Haha. Much respect for you rust belt guys!
Are both lines 18 mm ?
Yes they are. I'm doing mine right now lol
I guess there are no serviceable parts on that rack, like replacing the seals instead of the entire rack? Great video.
The bore of the rack tends to wear and then pressure blows out the seals. Not really any end user serviceable parts. Thanks for watching.
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sound is terrible. otherwise seems to be informative.
It is terrible, that's why I'm here because there's no way in hell I'm dropping the diff, removing the control arms and axles to remove this stupid rack.
Done 3 of those on wife's 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix. Definitely a flaw with that car.
I bet youre pretty good at Grand Prix racks! I had a couple Grand Prix vehicles of that vintage. Really nice car.
So Umm Can I ship you mu Jeep for this. Tools and I don't mix.
Awesome Video Man. Really Kool!!
Tim, I got a few questions that perplex my single BB sized brain cell to this day. Hopefully somewhere deep in your "Vast Storage of Wisdom Jar" is the all knowing, all seeing and packed full jar of Tips, Tricks and Obscured Magical Answers. Hopefully you will share with us wanna-be back seat driver couch potato headed mechanically challenged dummies the forever elusive answers. These mysterious Wonders of the Mechanical World are important because "We Really Need To Know".
-- 1) How come everyone using an impact tool has the obsessive need to quickly squeeze and release the trigger when removing or installing anything with an tool? Doesn't the impacting action of the gun's hammers provide enough "impacts"?
-- 2) I know using the Flare Crowfoot is the right tool but if you didn't have one or couldn't get one right away, would a regular crowsfoot work or would it ruin or round off the hose fitting making it simply best to wait until we have the flare crowsfoot tool in our grubby meat milkers?
-- 3) Not a question but - since the video lost sound, and I really need to hear your sexy man voice, I studied and completed the Willy Wonka Speed Lip Reading Course for Seniors. I finished 48th in a class of 10! I now have my own spiffy and shinny new rear facing lapel pin and a "special" made in china bumper sticker that I proudly let my wife put on her car because she is so "supportive" of my Special Needed People moments. Kinda like my sports supporter, it works even when I don't know I'm wearing it backwards. I also like your new soundless teaser video style of copying the chinese film makers where you hit something or say something then go get coffee and wait for the sound to return segments! Truly magical and awesome. And watching you un-thread the bolt in almost total silence for 20 minutes was surely inspiring.
3) The sound went away for 20 minuets? Lame. The stupid mic cord keeps getting wrapped up in my feet. 1) guys like to push buttons. Air impacts are cool. 1) yes. 5) read my lips.
You are a funny funny man. Hahaha
HaHa! You must have really huge body parts - See, like I said before, you're the Great White North's Stud!
Great video! You're spot on with the wd40 vs PB blaster thing. I live in the rust belt, and wd is pretty much useless compared to blaster. It's funny though. I have the same effect you do, but with wd instead. It gives me a nasty headache. Here, that job would take a ton of head and 2 bottles of PB! I'm no mechanic like yourself. But I have 5 trucks I'm constantly working on. Your videos give me the courage to tackle jobs I wouldn't have done without seeing them done here first. If you get a chance, check out my jeep exhaust manifold job I did, and let me know what you think. Have a good one, cheers!
Your comments are super encouraging! Except for the part about rust...yuk. Don't know how you guys do it. I would have to find another line of work if I was dealing with that every day. IM sure you guys have developed ways of dealing with it. We should figure out a way to exchange vehicle parts. We send bodies of vehicles with blown engines and you send engines from rusted out cars.
We do it with fire and pb blaster here.
There are some sound/voice issues with the video, unfortunately. Otherwise, very helpful.
I don't see what you did to save any time what you did is exactly what's needed to be done in order to get it out. You have to remove the front differential and the lower control arms that's the hardest part. Or did I miss something
You missed something.
@@ThecardoctorTV I just did one and I didn't remove the axles or the differential. I just swung it down in the front. Still took me about 3 hours start to finish
was the cusmter charge for 2 hrs or 5 hrs
What do you think I should charge?
Charge 6 hours book time. Your skill and knowledge should work to Your advantage not the customers!!
The Car Doctor 4 is reasonable for both customer and worker. You never know if the customer is rich poor etc etc
Awesome job, thanks for the time saving tip. But I have to ask, what part of that job did you skip to get it down from over 5 hrs to under 2. Just curiosity, being a tech myself this is probably how I would of done it. sometimes the way those things are put together is so dumb the engineers need to be shot.
They want you to remove the lower control arms and completely remove the front differential assembly. Crazy.
What's the s10 there for Tim?
Engine oil cooler lines leaking oil. Its one of the messiest jobs ever. I went home with oil up to my elbows and beyond.
The Car Doctor yuck! Those are common to leak too
The suspensions on these jeep liberty's are designed horribly. I see a lot of liberty's with bad camber. On my liberty i had to replace bad ball joints and now I have a leaking rack. My camber is maxed out I'm still getting really bad pull and wearing the inside of my tires.
The tie rod ends fail at 60K miles so be sure to check those as well. Stay safe!
Volume way too low hard to follow
So the real question is, how much did the customer pay in labor fees? My guess is you charged for 2.5 hours? 😉
Alaskans are cool
I agree. Some super cool folks up here. All that cool air helps I'm sure. Blessings!
Come on man lol
lost ur volume half way thru