Blue Sea System Battery Switch ACR - Portland Marine Electronics
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- čas přidán 20. 03. 2012
- Blue Sea System is the leader in battery switches for automatic charging relays (ACR). Here is a informative video by Jim at Portland Marine Electronics on how a ACR can help give you the power you need on the water.
- Sport
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I was hoping you would have the installation on that so I could see the bag and how the wires were hooked up. Anyway, it was a super informative video and I appreciate your time. Very helpful.
By far by far I say, this has been the best explenation that I have found for the Blue Sea Systems twin battery ACR set up, thank you!!!
Just bought a vessel with this set up, and now I understand it - thank you! Super clear explanation; not a wasted word.
Great clear explanation! Blue Sea should hire you to explain their systems like you did; in plain language! Thank you.
amazingly clear explanation. keep up the good work (Y)
Great Presentation. Thanks for posting this.
Good explanation of how it works.
Perfect explanation thank you sir.
Just saved me some money on my crest pontoon. I believe the combination with no need to go between one and two is what I have. I was just about to purchase a dual switch.
Like 621! How are you? Great video with great information! I have that first switch but I also have an old boat so I guess I'm ok! Learned a lot of great information from this video! Have a great day and happy boating!👍❤️⚓️🛥🐠
Thanks.... finely someone properly explains the function and wiring of a battery switch!
Great video! Im curious though. If im running my radio on battery one, whats to keep it playing when switching to battery two? It almost seems like I have to also run a power wire form my radio to battery two as well, correct? I really appreciate the video and feedback. Cheers!
July 02-2021, that was pretty damn good, thanks
This was an excellent video! Greatly appreciate it. When running your 4 power wires to combiner and 2 negative wires from battery does it matter which order you connect in like when you connect or disconnect a battery you usually go red first for connecting. Looking to install and don't want any surprises. Thanks.
I just bought that 3 screw switch you showed and I think it will be fine I’m using it for 2 batteries in a car to run an audio system in trunk. It clearly allows me to pick and choose which battery I would like to charge when engine is running and the ability to charge both at same time and when I’m done driving I can turn it off and use it as a kill switch so no one can steal my car and avoid any parasitic battery drains if I don’t drive for a few weeks or months.
How did that work out? I want to do the same.
Is there a wire diagram or a link to one that we can reference I was going to buy the other style switch and I'm glad I saw this video
Awesome video - I was looking for some detailed info on how this system works - great video ..
Cheers Jim. No fuse protection? Have just ordered my kit but most diagrams show at least 50A fuses on battery to ACR positives and also on the pos from switch to house appliances.
So if you never turn the battery switch off, do you need the battery switch at all,mor wills the ACR be ok by itself, with the remote switch to turn it off for switching (the 7622) -Thanks, Rebecca
Excellent
JR Moritz I was just the same
I have read your comment about blue sea products and it is not very hawaiian. What hareware do I recommend for this purpose?
So if you have it switched on to the second battery only, will it charge both battery's when the vehicle is running?
(I have the first switch you talked about, the old one.)
okay so i have a different use for this mind could you tell me if it would work or not please, my idea is to this in my solar system i just upgraded from my sealed lead acid batteries to gel deep cycle batteries if i put this switch between my inverter and battery bank could i use it switch between the two battery banks the lead acid batteries being a back system for just in case
Thanks for your explanations!
I have a question: where does the ARC positive connect to the on/of connector (one in 1 position a one in 2 position, but 1 there are two screws and the same for 2 position)?
Each distribution, motor and services has two screws to connect the line. thanks for clarifying it for me.
I have the switch you have on the wall there , and 2 batteries...and i bought the acr... i have an outboard that is just electric start but in the instructions its says the motor switch is optional....is it optional if i dont want to fry my electronics?
Where to or how do you ground on to your boat? i.e. bayliner 175?
I love it, but I am with chickenma and Obet -- how much to install on my boat?
I order the wrong switch
I got the E-series, Luke the one on this video and I just found out that is to be use with an inboard engine and my boat has an outboard.
Will that be a problem?
Thanks
Hello Jhon need to make an inquiry about the best installation of battery DM31, I have 4 auxiliary batteries and a single outboard with a 65A alternator, which would be a setup using BlueSea hareware for charging the battery starter and The 4 Optima DM31 batteries
I have a question what shahid wire do I use and for the fuses brakers what size on those
so why do you need the red switch when the ACR does the work? what is missing from the ACR?
too cool ....good video ....that was my nightmare exactly....looks expensive for new system though.....but for the saftey?.....IM GAME !!!!
I have this exact same set up on my 2017 Supreme S226, and all of a sudden that dial free spins and doesn't actually work. I went to the off position and found that the boat would still turn on. Today, the boat has no power but if I wiggle it a bit, I could find a spot where it provided power, but of course something's wrong. Not sure what to do when the dial doesn't work regardless of the position it's in.
Post a video of the install for us!!! Please
what does the voltmeter on the dashboard or fishfinder do during this half hour?
I use a NOCO Genius G3500 6V/12V 3.5 Amp Battery Charger and Maintainer to charge my batteries when the boat is not in use. Can I use this with the ACR?
A parts list would certainly be nice!
..... when you use an onboard charger what position do you leave the "combneabattery" switch in WHEN CHARGING??? THANKS!
Im a Little confused as to where all the ground wires are connected? does the large ground wire from the boat go to the bus bar?
what size red wire goes from battery to switch? what size red wite goes to fuses? Where do you get the fuse?
there's a wiring? I have to made this on my boat
How does one tie in solar charging and charge controller?...
Yea...but if the charging relay fails or goes bad, can current still travel threw it to the batteries?
The instructions included in the package show two fuses and a bus panel. Where are they in your video?
is the kicker motor connected to the house battery then?
Would I still be able to use a trickle charger at home and if so how would I hook it up to charge both batt's?
I have a dual on-board charger and thought the same question then it occurred to me to keep the old 3 prong big red battery switch and place it between the second battery and the ACR so when charging at home both batteries can be manually isolated. THEN i found the BlueSeas ACR that has the big yellow manual switch on top. That's the one that you can manually switch also to force the ACR to isolate the 2 batteries for charging at home.
will it work with 72 volts dc 30 Amps ?
Wouldn’t a voltage gauge be better knowing what battery has what charge than guessing to switch ?
I have similar set up(no bus bars) but also have Noco smart charger plug in each battery. I have connected the crank neg to deep cycle battery. Problem...when the switch is in off position rocker panel still works. I cant figure out what I may have done wrong. Is it the smart charger?? Any insight would be greatly appreciated
what is the difference between E series switch and M series switch ?
Have battery running down condition...new single wire alternator supplying 14.6 VDC to isolator then to batteries(2)...14.0 VDC to each battery. Engine runs for 1/2 HR, then battery appears to go flat...engine stalls or runs poorly...Whats going on?
In the video, you indicate that one of the terminals on the switch connects to the engine. Is that the alternator or the starter? Is there a good instruction manual with this product?
I've Been trying find this out too.. instructions say engine, for both ACR and Switch (add a Battery Kit) ACR has one to go to engine as Does the On Off Swtich.. which goes where !!!!! One to Alt, and One to Starter.. HELP !
This is 12 years old, but where is the start isolation wire go to, from the ACR? LED plug just go to bus or something?
For this system, do both batteries have to be the same size/capacity?
I have this system in my 2016 Cobalt 200. Today I go to switch the battery from off to on and the switch doesn't click into place. No power to the boat. Any ideas what is wrong?
Eric Stegall
Howdy, The best ideas that I have seen was on Volt daddy (i did a google) I bet its the most helpful info on batteries and this kinda that I have found.
I’m confused. If the switch position is in 1+2, wouldn’t that run and charge both batteries at the same time?
I have That same question. I am a newbie and motivated by necessity to learn about this stuff.
I have a convertor/charger that operates very well, with intelligent charging and many protections built in, when plugged into shore power. It is currently set up to charge and maintain just the house battery bank, while plugged into shore power. But I want to be able to charge and maintain ALL the batteries... or... both banks... while hooked up to shore power.
I will set up two separate battery monitors... one for the house bank and one for starter bank... simply because the banks are in two different physical locations and I am on a meager budget, so cheap and simple will do, for now, for the required purpose of monitoring charge status on independent banks.
The rig came with an old but functioning battery isolater on board, that allows both house and starter banks to be charged, while the motor is running (which we know does NOT provide full maximum battery recharging, but is better than being completely dead.
SOOOO.... I just bought one of those switches... and am awaiting its arrival.... thinking I could use the 1, 2, off, 1+2 switch... by coming off my distribution panel (charger/converter)... to it... to the switch... and then connect the switch to both battery banks.
The idea being that I could THEN use the shore power to charge either bank, with bulk charging if needed, and then use 1+2 to maintain both banks for longer stays.
So am I WRONG in thinking that would work?
@@TxRiverElf the same thing in theory is with the big red switch except you must not change position of your big red switch while engine is "running" or you risk blowing out your ECM or rectifier on your boat motor. This ACR can switch without that danger because of how it is wired essentially
Every boat is different, but if you already have 2 batteries and a switch, it's about $800-$1000 for the parts and labor - depending on the boat's original configuration. isolating the engine electrically is the most important thing, and some vessels require several hours to convert. this is the best way to go to ensure you always have a fully charged engine battery to get you started or get you home!
this is manual how about automatic?
it would be nice for wiring diagram
how can i make the old one work like the new one, can I add something so both batteries charge at the same time with NO issues?
This will work for what you are asking
zash when you say “this will work for what you are asking”... are you referring to Be Lu’s 3 prong switch or a four prong with acr unit?
@@TxRiverElf if you are adding the ACR you need to change the 3 prong big red switch to the 4 prong big red switch so you can manually isolate the batteries when charging at home out of the water.
Or it looks like to me maybe installing the ML-ACR that has the manual switch built into the ACR on top. I am fixing to add a second battery myself and trying to decide on the SI-ACR or the ML-ACR.
See, the big red switch essentially does what the ACR does but it is risky switching the big red switch while engine is running because of sudden spike when switching can burn out your engine ECM or engine rectifier. This switch does it safely because of how it works
@@TxRiverElf blues seas 7655 has an onboard charger built in to the ACR. That may be just the ticket for people with tight places and if you dont already have a charger installed onboard.
zash ... thanks truly for responding... but I don’t think this set up you are promoting is for me.
Many boaters may need it to avoid being stranded without power, due to failing to monitor their switch position.
This would not apply to me.
I do not have a boat; I have a converted bus with an onboard distribution panel and with intelligent charging... which IS working great for my house battery, when plugged into shore power..
Plus I have a battery isolator, already, that automatically charges both banks, when the motor is running.
I do not foresee any reason to run my motor except to relocate... in which case I would be taking standard Prep measures to disconnect electric and water hookups.
Having the 3 prong switch on hand... and not looking to buy more stuff...
I don’t see way it can not be used to offer a Shore Power Charging opportunity... for my starting bank as well...
... by simply switching either between the already established house battery to charger connection... to a connection to the start battery... and ONLY WITH ENGINE OFF... of course... as something to do prior to take off, for short layovers...
Or ... in the event of longer parking... switch to the “both” setting...
... so shore power charging can keep both battery banks TOPPED OFF.
Prior to starting the engine... for relocation... I would simply switch back to House Bank Only...
... so any loads to the distribution fuse panel... like interior lights and radio... would draw only from the house bank.
Again... park... engine off... shore connected... THEN switch to BOTH.... to charge both banks...
Time to leave... disconnect shore hookups... switch to house bank... start engine... ease on down the road.
If I add in solar... in the future... things would expand accordingly... but until then... I think the old system of hands on control switching will work for me.
I may even make a rather Splenda pilot’s checklist... 😂... left ON THE STEERING WHEEL... to ensure that I follow proper procedure.
Best regards!!
OK, not so clear for me, let's say there are 2 batteries, but only 2 red cable, which terminal to connect to? Also, where's the negative cables will go for the 1st or 2nd batteries?
I believe there is a serious design fault with this battery isolator. What happens if the auxiliary battery circuit shorts out by whatever means - a cable short, equipment fault, battery shorts or explodes on its own, (as I have witnessed) fuse or circuit breaker malfunctions, or whatever?
You switch off the Blue Seas Battery isolator immediately which cuts the power to both circuits. But now, you can't switch on the starter battery to start the engine and get out of trouble because the isolator will also automatically connect and send power to both circuits including the faulty one, at the same time. So now, you can't restart your engine or return the boat to safety because you will be sending power to both circuits including the faulty one as soon as you switch to 'ON'. Heaven help you if you are close to the rocks etc and no time or access to find the fault or disconnect cables etc. "Old fashioned" use of two separate isolator switches would eliminate this serious issue altogether as the starting circuit can be engaged while the auxiliary remains disconnected from its circuit. I'm not convinced this is a safe product.
how to ell if your battery switch is bad
how much it will cost me to have all these installed into my boat?
11.300.00
11,300.00 !!? dam - i hope that includes rewiring the entire boat
Do an actual install
You might want to update your presentation. Clackamas is mis-spelled.
Meeeh. A solution in search of a problem.
Great information!
On a side note, You guys are terrible at answering emails.. get into the current century guys and check your inbox
in order to talks 5 minutes, electrical circuit diagram more then enoughft
VSR' are a load of crap. House battery has been connected to various loads and is now discharged to 12 V. Engine is turned on and starts the alternator. VSR senses the main starter battery and allow it to charge by itself. When the voltage is 13.8V i.e. starter battery is fully charged. The VSR connects the Auxiliary battery to the starter battery and the alternator line, so it gets charged by the alternator and the starter battery. Now at this point this is what happens. Assume each battery has an internal impedance of .002 Ohms. Starter battery fully charged to 13.8V So the voltage difference between the two batteries is about 1.8V. 1.8/(2*.002) = 450 Amps!!!!! Starter battery is being
discharged so its voltage drops and the VSR contactor opens. Starter is charged again in a matter of a couple of seconds. Voltage again drop and VSR opens the contacts. So this chattering goes on until with each pulse the Auxiliary battery is being slowly charged.
Opening a Direct current with the contacts causes it to arc. If the VSR uses transistors (a few in parallel) capable of passing this high current at least there are no contacts to arc. They build in hysteresis into the circuit. How much? 0.2V, 0.5V? If the Auxiliary has dropped to 11 V then the current is 700 Amps. Do they have current limiting? NO! Now which dumb shit designed something like this using relay contacts? And they sell them to the unsuspecting public for how much? $125 for a so called 120Amp relay which can be called on to pass 700 Amps? This is a really shameful product