There is no Live Stream session this week as I am away from my workstation in Kuala Lumpur. I'm at home in Kuching, Borneo with mum and will spend almost two weeks here celebrating the coming Chinese New Year festivities. Instead of a live stream, I hope you enjoy this video! Regular streaming will resume next week, and we sure have a lot to talk about!
Robin…beautiful pictures of a beautiful city. The streets are so well lit at night, and they are so clean…no trash. You can be proud of where you live…Be Well…
I do similar technique for night photos in city... I limit ISO up to 800 and shutter speeds 0.5-4". I do this so that people and their faces are not clear and also get light trails in the photos! With Olympus cameras it is so easy but you definetely need tripod for similar results with other systems. Thanks Robin for the great tips.
I love your choice of music and how you incorporate it into your videos. I often see people not mastering this part of creating videos that well, but you do it well. Keep up the great job :)
Robin, your tips are so valuable. I have just switched from Nikon DX camera bodies and got my first Olympus, an E-M1X. I am currently in the process of setting my M1X up using my preferences from all your settings/tips videos. Keep up the fantastic work sir, you help so many of us 👍
Night shoots are so dramatically mysterious and colorful that a sense of wonder is the result. With your example, I have images of Kuala Lumpur forever implanted in my brain. Thanks for sharing. I'm soon off to the desert to do a night shoot of Saguaro Cacti, monumental Rock arches with a backdrop of distant mountains and the Milky Way.
Hi Robin your test convinced me to change definitely my Fuji staff with a Olympus camera. I choose an om digital solution om-5. Already tried to shot in a few occasion: very impressive results! Thanks for you professionality The 45mm 1.7 is really incredible lens, you are right! Ciaoooo ! Massimo .
I personally enjoy pushing the shutter slower for night shooting in the city for light trails of passing cars with a skyline or neon sign backdrop. I did this challenge around New years and it was totally worth it doing something new to me.
Fun video, Robin, thanks! I noticed in your M1 original video that you shot several of your photos at very high ISOs (I think I saw one at like 8000) and they looked great. While this video is about working around low ISOs, I appreciate your reminder to just take photos and don't stress the noise too much. Lots of cool photos here!
For moving subjects (human walking, dance, action) and if you intend to freeze motion, just go high on ISO, that is fine. But this case, I wanted the scenery/urbanscape instead, do motion or no motion makes no difference. Hence ISO200 is fine!
What a beautiful city. Love all the lit up building's and the colors. I don't know of anyplace in the states that look anything like this. Vegas? Maybe. lol Great video Robin.
Hi Robin.. enjoy the New Year celebration and your time with family. I hope people are appreciating how much instruction you pack into your videos.. and your production values get better all the time. I finally got one of these lenses for myself.. so happy with it. I also enjoyed the smooth stable video walk at the end.. really shows off with the Olympus cameras can do!!
Thanks for the well wishes, and you are too kind. Appreciate the coffee too. I do try my best to improve my video production, but as you know, I am a photographer first, so only during my spare time I can learn new things and explore. Not a good excuse I know, but I will continue to get better.
Thanks Andrew, yes, night shooting is great here in KL, but it just rains so much sometimes. My cameras/lenses may be weather-sealed, but I am certainly not!
@@robinwong true :). I should have added "when it's dry". I was so excited to get my first weather sealed gear, until I remembered that I didn't particularly like getting wet.
Thanks for another great video, Robin. I like the way way you challenge orthodoxy and encourage us to just get out and shoot. It was good to see you using f2.8, too. At least now I know I can try this ISO200 challenge with my current lenses.
Thank you for the video, Robin ! I use ISO-200 + timer in the low light, sometimes even stop to F/8.0 to get nice sunstars. But for this I need to hold camera on something steady. Looking at your pictures from blog, I don't like how the 9mm lens renders the lights. Let's call it sunstars, although it does not look like sunstars and it has a lot of CA. Perhaps it would look better at F/8.0. Your video&article were very usefull. I realized PL 9mm is not for me. This it does not means it's a bad lens, it's just that it does not fits my needs.
I do the same in most cases -- auto ISO up to 3200 (but I'm shooting FF... probably less like 1600 on my m4/3 cameras which is an old Panasonic GF1). But using auto ISO is a good tip and one that a lot of people shy away from, but with modern digital cameras made in the last 5-6 years, it's gotten better to a point where it's reliable and will provide good results overall, with one less thing for you to think about as a photographer. In fact, unless I'm doing something like landscape photography, I'm usually in auto ISO mode up to 1600 or 3200, especially for travel and street photography.
The reason I made this video is for situations where you don't need high ISO (when motion is not important), you should not be using auto ISO as it will go up to ISO6400 or beyond. Staying at ISO200 brings a lot of benefits.
Surprisingly enough, I recently did some night shots on 35mm film using Kodak Gold at iso 200. The results are the best I have got. It seems to be the golden number for night photography.
@@robinwong would love to see you do some 35mm or even 120mm film photography with some of the legacy OM etc. would be fitting to your compact nature of photography.
Similar when I go into night city with my Pentax K3, Sigma18-35/1.8 and just do hand held pics staying in ISO100-400 level. Or sometimes with EPL6 and Pany 25/1.7. 9mm F1.7 would be nice to have since I only have 9mm F8 cap :)) Noise is only one issue, but dynamic range is other challenge. Especially with dark places and bright color lights in some parts of image. Then the exposure is tricky. Btw even Oly XZ-2 can do very nice night handheld shots with 1/10s shutter using the mighty F1.8 lens while keeping ISO low. Perfect travell companion if you have no more space in suitcase :)
When shooting with dynamic range in mind, it is even more important to lower the ISO numbers, and at base ISO which was 200 for OM System and Olympus cameras, you get the best dynamic range captured in the RAW file.
Thanks Robin for doing the 200 ISO challenge, How does the high ISO capability compare with your two cameras, one being your brand new OM-1 vs E-M1 MKII, watering boat what the difference of image quality between two cameras at ISO 1600 to ISO 6400 is, I personally wouldn’t shoot any higher than 6400 yes, I had to get the shot for indoor sports photography where a fast shutter speed is needed using my 75mm lens which is equivalent to 150mm full frame lens to get the shot, Please do a high ISO test comparing the two cameras when shooting moving subjects.
No comparisons, I did one and I was eaten alive by overzealous fanboys. From my experience, the OM-1 and E-M1 Mark II produce identical high ISO performance. DPReview also backs up this claim.
Hi Robin excellent vid as usual and i have the same body and lens so I'm out on a trip to try very soon. Can you give me the name of the recoding monitor? do you have to alter settings in the HDMI setting to get the full view of camera setting etc many thanks Brent uk
Hi Robin, thanks for this nice video! Question: is there any reason why you stopped down to F2.8 on this lens instead of setting it at 1.7 (more light!)?
The Anti-Flicker is for dealing with fluorescent and LED lights, and that happens a lot in the streets. I set it to 50Hz, this is dependent on your local electricity frequency
Hi Robin, sorry, I would like to ask you something. When shooting in jpeg with om1 in certain situations the camera tends to expose the highlights excessively, significantly decreasing the details, even in scenes that in theory do not have a high contrast. Have you noticed this fact and if so, are there any settings in the camera to obtain a more "stable" jpeg? Hi thank you very much
I've been shooting with an Olympus E-410 for the last 15 years. Its just a hobby for me so it has served me very well. I think its time to move into something newer but the investment seems too big for my pocket. Any ideas?
I am capturing city-scape, and I don't need shallow depth of field. So I stopped down the lens a little for better sharpness. Also, the 5-Axis IS can handle the longer shutter speeds.
Anti-Shock prevents shutter shock which was caused by the shutter mechanism opening and closing. This has nothing to do with camera stability on tripod, or image stabilization. They operate differently.
Sadly I can't do that when I'm shooting events. The good thing is that the High ISO performance of the OM-1 is much better, so I work comfortably with ISO up to 8000.
@@robinwong well I'm happy to say this is not true. They look similar up to ISO 1600, but from there starts the difference. It's way more visible after ISO 4000 up to 8000 (I don't shoot over 8000). On the OM-1 the skin tones are better, the color reproduction is better, and the noise is less, it's not a huge difference, but it's more organic and monochromic, but what makes a big difference are the colors. Also if you bring the shadows up you will see banding on the E-M1 II and the files start to look terrible. On the OM-1 latitude is so much more and you can work more with these files, I can push even the exposures 1-2 stops together with the shadows.
Another great video Robin but I have a question. I have a GH5 and it goes down to ISO100 but this is an extended range. Should I use the default base iso 200 still, or would the extended Iso100 be even better?
The ISO200 is the native, base ISO and will give you better dynamic range. The Extended ISO is fake ISO, meaning they just overexposed the ISO200 image and artificially reduced the exposure in software processing. You already lose one stop of advantage.
Great video Robin! How do you get your display to show you the green level gauge when shooting stills? That only seems to be available on my OM-1 in video mode.
If you treasure the zoom convenience, then go for 8-18mm. If you need the lens to be as bright as possible, the 9mm has an advantage being F1.7, and it is just so much smaller and lighter, not to mention, lower in price!
Want more tips and tricks on shooting in low light? Please join my membership here: czcams.com/channels/jUwaonD9QVeDzEdSqwrGmA.htmljoin
There is no Live Stream session this week as I am away from my workstation in Kuala Lumpur. I'm at home in Kuching, Borneo with mum and will spend almost two weeks here celebrating the coming Chinese New Year festivities. Instead of a live stream, I hope you enjoy this video! Regular streaming will resume next week, and we sure have a lot to talk about!
Happy New Year, Robin
Happy Chinese New Year.
A Hug from 'Mum'/Mom is always the best. And something precious I miss the most.
Thanks everyone, Gong Xi Fa Cai to you all
Gong Xi Fa Cai, Robin! If I see you anywhere on the streets this week, I'll definitely say hi!
Robin…beautiful pictures of a beautiful city. The streets are so well lit at night, and they are so clean…no trash. You can be proud of where you live…Be Well…
I do similar technique for night photos in city... I limit ISO up to 800 and shutter speeds 0.5-4". I do this so that people and their faces are not clear and also get light trails in the photos! With Olympus cameras it is so easy but you definetely need tripod for similar results with other systems. Thanks Robin for the great tips.
Yeah slow shutter speeds open up more opportunities for creative output too
I do similar technique during the day with ND filters.
I would like to see a video where you use the olympus mini flash provided in the kit with omd cameras.
I love your choice of music and how you incorporate it into your videos. I often see people not mastering this part of creating videos that well, but you do it well. Keep up the great job :)
Thanks Johnny, appreciate that you notice the work I put in selecting the music. It takes quite a bit of time.
Great demonstration of the strengths of M43 systems, the IBIS!
Yeah I cannot live without the 5-Axis IS
Robin, your tips are so valuable. I have just switched from Nikon DX camera bodies and got my first Olympus, an E-M1X. I am currently in the process of setting my M1X up using my preferences from all your settings/tips videos. Keep up the fantastic work sir, you help so many of us 👍
Night shoots are so dramatically mysterious and colorful that a sense of wonder is the result. With your example, I have images of Kuala Lumpur forever implanted in my brain. Thanks for sharing.
I'm soon off to the desert to do a night shoot of Saguaro Cacti, monumental Rock arches with a backdrop of distant mountains and the Milky Way.
Thanks, and wow, you are going to make some incredible images, go make more photos!
Hi Robin your test convinced me to change definitely my Fuji staff with a Olympus camera. I choose an om digital solution om-5. Already tried to shot in a few occasion: very impressive results! Thanks for you professionality
The 45mm 1.7 is really incredible lens, you are right! Ciaoooo ! Massimo .
Great images. Night city photography is one of my favorite subjects, and the IBIS on these cameras is amazing.
I personally enjoy pushing the shutter slower for night shooting in the city for light trails of passing cars with a skyline or neon sign backdrop. I did this challenge around New years and it was totally worth it doing something new to me.
Yah slow shutter speed is so so fun!
Fun video, Robin, thanks! I noticed in your M1 original video that you shot several of your photos at very high ISOs (I think I saw one at like 8000) and they looked great. While this video is about working around low ISOs, I appreciate your reminder to just take photos and don't stress the noise too much. Lots of cool photos here!
For moving subjects (human walking, dance, action) and if you intend to freeze motion, just go high on ISO, that is fine. But this case, I wanted the scenery/urbanscape instead, do motion or no motion makes no difference. Hence ISO200 is fine!
What a beautiful city. Love all the lit up building's and the colors. I don't know of anyplace in the states that look anything like this. Vegas? Maybe. lol Great video Robin.
Thanks, and yes it is magical to shoot the city lights at night!
I was scratching my head, wondering how you recorded the screen, when BOOM!, you gave away your secrets!
Love your enthusiasm I like the slow shutter shot with my om1 too
Thanks, and yes slow shutter can create some cool images
That is some super stable walking footage! Nice.
Yeah, the wonders of image stabilzation
That lens is a gem! Thanks for the inspiration.
Oh yes, loving the Panasonic 9mm F1.7
I did this in Tokyo last October! It is so much fun with that lens!
Tokyo is such a nice place to shoot at night
@@robinwong Magical...full of hidden corners and iconic forms. I just love the Tokyo crossings!
Love this combo for street n night photography.
Oh yes, loving the Panasonic lens.
Cool photos. I also really like that lens.
Thanks Evan, loving the Panasonic 9mm F1.7
Great Video, please do more of this kind of videos to show us how to push our OM cameras to the limit.
Thanks. I am doing the best I can.
I agree with everything you said, photos are taken with light, not raising the ISO dial
you have to go in search of light to photograph
Great video Robin. I love also the excellent Panasonic Leica 9mm f1.7. So this video was lovely to watch and instructive too. 👍👍👍
Thanks Alex, appreciate that, ad yes the Panasonic 9mm F1.7 is so awesome.
Hi Robin.. enjoy the New Year celebration and your time with family. I hope people are appreciating how much instruction you pack into your videos.. and your production values get better all the time. I finally got one of these lenses for myself.. so happy with it. I also enjoyed the smooth stable video walk at the end.. really shows off with the Olympus cameras can do!!
Thanks for the well wishes, and you are too kind. Appreciate the coffee too. I do try my best to improve my video production, but as you know, I am a photographer first, so only during my spare time I can learn new things and explore. Not a good excuse I know, but I will continue to get better.
My favourite photoffa from Kompor! Keep it up!
Thanks, appreciate that
I really enjoy your photowalk style videos, but this one was especially good.
Kuala Lumpur looks like a great city for night photography!
Thanks Andrew, yes, night shooting is great here in KL, but it just rains so much sometimes. My cameras/lenses may be weather-sealed, but I am certainly not!
@@robinwong true :). I should have added "when it's dry". I was so excited to get my first weather sealed gear, until I remembered that I didn't particularly like getting wet.
Thanks for another great video, Robin. I like the way way you challenge orthodoxy and encourage us to just get out and shoot. It was good to see you using f2.8, too. At least now I know I can try this ISO200 challenge with my current lenses.
Wonderful!! Also whatever you recorded your vlogging on worked so well too!
Thanks Gordon! And yes I hope the HDMI capture device is good enough to show the viewfinder
OM system IBIS in your capable hands is amazing.
Thanks, 5-Axis IS benefits everyone!
What a beautiful city at night. Stunning images.
Thanks Mike, appreciate that
Thanks for another excellent photo-walk! Happy New Year 🙏
Thanks so much, appreciate that!
Kids off😊🎉
Thanks
let's not forget it's aperture 2.8..! ... if Robin used aperture 1.2 with differentl lens, it's like 2 stops of difference.. Wow :)
Great video Robin. Wonderful night-time photographs.
Very nice and inspiring video, need to try it😊
Your photos makes me want to visit Kuala Lumpur!
Please come!
Merci Robin pour cette vidéo, je vais essayer avec le E-M5 mark III +12-40 f 2.8 , pour voir
Cool, thanks again ❤ i do 70 percent images in low light..❤
Thanks Paul! Oh yeah low light shooting is fun.
Great vid as always. I always take a tripod wherever I go, but I'm going to try this, it would certainly help with carrying less gear.
Thank you Robin .
Thanks Christine!
amazing and inspirational as always! thanks!
Thanks Roland
Thank you for the video, Robin ! I use ISO-200 + timer in the low light, sometimes even stop to F/8.0 to get nice sunstars. But for this I need to hold camera on something steady.
Looking at your pictures from blog, I don't like how the 9mm lens renders the lights. Let's call it sunstars, although it does not look like sunstars and it has a lot of CA. Perhaps it would look better at F/8.0. Your video&article were very usefull. I realized PL 9mm is not for me. This it does not means it's a bad lens, it's just that it does not fits my needs.
Great photography I use a monopod because I don’t have Tripod Hands like you lol 😂
I am sure you can achieve the same too, trust the camera's 5-Axis IS more, it will surprise you.
Nice pics and excellent video
Thanks, appreciate that
haha, I think I saw one of these skyline photos come up on flickr. I liked it without even realizing it was you. Great shot.
I don't have a Flickr
Heh, went back and looked. It was a Hasselblad from Feb 5th. Bad assumption. Very similar photo.
You've got it man, nice 😎
Thanks Mike!
I do the same in most cases -- auto ISO up to 3200 (but I'm shooting FF... probably less like 1600 on my m4/3 cameras which is an old Panasonic GF1). But using auto ISO is a good tip and one that a lot of people shy away from, but with modern digital cameras made in the last 5-6 years, it's gotten better to a point where it's reliable and will provide good results overall, with one less thing for you to think about as a photographer. In fact, unless I'm doing something like landscape photography, I'm usually in auto ISO mode up to 1600 or 3200, especially for travel and street photography.
The reason I made this video is for situations where you don't need high ISO (when motion is not important), you should not be using auto ISO as it will go up to ISO6400 or beyond. Staying at ISO200 brings a lot of benefits.
Surprisingly enough, I recently did some night shots on 35mm film using Kodak Gold at iso 200. The results are the best I have got. It seems to be the golden number for night photography.
ISO200 is the native ISO for Olympus and OM Products, so it will give the best results.
@@robinwong would love to see you do some 35mm or even 120mm film photography with some of the legacy OM etc. would be fitting to your compact nature of photography.
恭喜发财, Robin!
Similar when I go into night city with my Pentax K3, Sigma18-35/1.8 and just do hand held pics staying in ISO100-400 level.
Or sometimes with EPL6 and Pany 25/1.7.
9mm F1.7 would be nice to have since I only have 9mm F8 cap :))
Noise is only one issue, but dynamic range is other challenge. Especially with dark places and bright color lights in some parts of image. Then the exposure is tricky.
Btw even Oly XZ-2 can do very nice night handheld shots with 1/10s shutter using the mighty F1.8 lens while keeping ISO low. Perfect travell companion if you have no more space in suitcase :)
When shooting with dynamic range in mind, it is even more important to lower the ISO numbers, and at base ISO which was 200 for OM System and Olympus cameras, you get the best dynamic range captured in the RAW file.
Thanks Robin for doing the 200 ISO challenge,
How does the high ISO capability compare with your two cameras, one being your brand new OM-1 vs E-M1 MKII, watering boat what the difference of image quality between two cameras at ISO 1600 to ISO 6400 is, I personally wouldn’t shoot any higher than 6400 yes, I had to get the shot for indoor sports photography where a fast shutter speed is needed using my 75mm lens which is equivalent to 150mm full frame lens to get the shot,
Please do a high ISO test comparing the two cameras when shooting moving subjects.
No comparisons, I did one and I was eaten alive by overzealous fanboys.
From my experience, the OM-1 and E-M1 Mark II produce identical high ISO performance. DPReview also backs up this claim.
Thank you :)
Cheers Lecky
Hi Robin excellent vid as usual and i have the same body and lens so I'm out on a trip to try very soon. Can you give me the name of the recoding monitor? do you have to alter settings in the HDMI setting to get the full view of camera setting etc many thanks Brent uk
Hi Robin, thanks for this nice video! Question: is there any reason why you stopped down to F2.8 on this lens instead of setting it at 1.7 (more light!)?
Wonderful! I see FLK in your camera settings, did you use the anti-flicker function? With what setting? Thanks.
The Anti-Flicker is for dealing with fluorescent and LED lights, and that happens a lot in the streets. I set it to 50Hz, this is dependent on your local electricity frequency
I've been here with my 2.8 sigma 18-50 and sony zve10, it was though to take a pictures with iso less than 3200 😂
Hi Robin, sorry, I would like to ask you something. When shooting in jpeg with om1 in certain situations the camera tends to expose the highlights excessively, significantly decreasing the details, even in scenes that in theory do not have a high contrast. Have you noticed this fact and if so, are there any settings in the camera to obtain a more "stable" jpeg? Hi thank you very much
I've been shooting with an Olympus E-410 for the last 15 years. Its just a hobby for me so it has served me very well. I think its time to move into something newer but the investment seems too big for my pocket. Any ideas?
Hi Robin, thank you for the Video, why you are never using 1.7 aperture during your walk when taking the pictures?
I am capturing city-scape, and I don't need shallow depth of field. So I stopped down the lens a little for better sharpness. Also, the 5-Axis IS can handle the longer shutter speeds.
Thanks Robin! Does Anti-Shock improve stabilization when taking night photos without a tripod?
Anti-Shock prevents shutter shock which was caused by the shutter mechanism opening and closing. This has nothing to do with camera stability on tripod, or image stabilization. They operate differently.
OK thanks Robin!@@robinwong
@@robinwong I'm going to do some tests with my OM-5 🙂
Is it suitable to photograph distant objects at night and at a short focal length with the aperture fully open? Depth of field not resolved?
Sadly I can't do that when I'm shooting events. The good thing is that the High ISO performance of the OM-1 is much better, so I work comfortably with ISO up to 8000.
I find OM-1's high ISO to be identical to E-M1 Mark II. I have done extensive tests, and DPReview also agrees in their own rigorous tests.
@@robinwong well I'm happy to say this is not true. They look similar up to ISO 1600, but from there starts the difference. It's way more visible after ISO 4000 up to 8000 (I don't shoot over 8000). On the OM-1 the skin tones are better, the color reproduction is better, and the noise is less, it's not a huge difference, but it's more organic and monochromic, but what makes a big difference are the colors. Also if you bring the shadows up you will see banding on the E-M1 II and the files start to look terrible. On the OM-1 latitude is so much more and you can work more with these files, I can push even the exposures 1-2 stops together with the shadows.
Great video Robin
If using a low iso knowing you will correct exposure in post do you prefer to under expose image and correct or raise iso?
raising exposure in post makes more noise compared to properly exposed shots even with high iso
Thanks. I always expose my shots correctly. Or as close to correct exposure as I can.
What metering mode do you use. The default matrix or some thing else
Nice video robin, as always :) how do you manage to capture the viewfinder of your om1? Greetings from austria!
I have explained that in video.
Probuje systemu aoe minto ciezko idzie szczegolnie nocne ujecia
👍
Great video Robin….just wondering does your lens need to have IS stabilisation for the IS to work?
Thanks. This was purely body 5-Axis IS.
Another great video Robin but I have a question. I have a GH5 and it goes down to ISO100 but this is an extended range. Should I use the default base iso 200 still, or would the extended Iso100 be even better?
The ISO200 is the native, base ISO and will give you better dynamic range. The Extended ISO is fake ISO, meaning they just overexposed the ISO200 image and artificially reduced the exposure in software processing. You already lose one stop of advantage.
@@robinwong Thanks for this reply. I'll be sure to not use it then.
Great video Robin! How do you get your display to show you the green level gauge when shooting stills? That only seems to be available on my OM-1 in video mode.
Try pressing the Info button.
hai robin im test om1 vs oly 5 mark3, om1 im saf focus war schwach,aber hier es hat gut gemacht?
So will any Panasonic micro 4/3 lens work on our OM system
Wonder how much difference the 1.5 extra stops of IS on the OM-1 II will make?
I think at this point, any additional stop won't bring that much difference any more
What is the fog for on the street by 1:38 ?
Some fake fog thing pushed out by machines
OK? What camera did you actually shoot this with? The Oly OM-1 is a film camera.
The Olympus OM-1 is a film camera, but the OM System OM-1 is a digital mirrorless. 😉
Can i apply to flagship smartphone it has ibis like vivo X80 😅😅
Give it a try
Why did you shoot at f/2.8 for a low light challenge when the lens can do f/1.7?
Because I want the shutter speed to be slow enough to induce motion blur.
These are not really low light conditions.
ISO200, F2.8, 2 seconds, is not low light? If you need to handhold, say 1/30 sec you need ISO12800!
💯❤❤❤❤❤💯
Thanks Zoltan
Hey Robin, between the Panasonic 8-18mm and the 9mm... which one do you think is more practical to pair with a 12-100mm lens?
If you treasure the zoom convenience, then go for 8-18mm. If you need the lens to be as bright as possible, the 9mm has an advantage being F1.7, and it is just so much smaller and lighter, not to mention, lower in price!