UTV Snow Plowing | Don't Make this Mistake!
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- čas přidán 7. 07. 2024
- UTV Snow Plowing is a lot of fun…until you make a mistake and break it! This video is all about showing you how to quickly fix a common mistake that can happen when plowing snow.
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I’m not going to lie, when it starts snowing out I get a little excited about hopping in the Side by Side for some snow removal time behind the wheel. Plus there is the added benefit that I get to say I'm “working” around the house while doing it…after all, it has to get done.
Well over the course of just a few times testing the Denali County Plow system, we managed to break it. The worst part is it was a totally avoidable issue (although there is a small flaw with the plow, but that’s for another video). So as we were out working that UTV snow removal process we love so much we managed to pull the winch up to high…multiple times.
The problem when you pull a winch too high when a plow is attached (again multiple times) something has to give, and its generally not the winch. So over time we slowly managed to pull the winch plate away from the plow until it had enough and just popped right off the plow base. This can be a common mistake for someone new to plowing…and apparently us. So one of the goals of this video is to bring awareness to this so hopefully, you can avoid it in the future. The other goal is to show you how to fix the problem in case you do accidentally make the same mistake on a plow system.
This fix should be similar rather you made the mistake when using your ATV for snow removal just the same as if you were using a UTV. It should also be rather similar for different types of plows. So I hope if you are here because you made this mistake while removing snow it is helpful, whether you have an ATV or a side by side or while using an entirely different plow system.
I hope you enjoy this video and it gets you back to that ATV snow removal process fast so you can continue to have fun...I mean get the chores done!
Lock washers do not go on flat washers they go on the nut to keep the nut from backing off
The lockwasher goes on the nut side! =0
Sure does 😆 one of those mistakes you make and then your like crap... Well I guess everyone saw me do that! 😂
and no need when using locking nuts
"Locking washers" don't work anyways. Blue loctite or nylon locking nuts are much better options.
I would use the correct size hardware.......
I’m glad he got the nuts hang low part lol. Always place your nuts on the underside so if they were ever to work loose and fall off you would still have your bolts holding things in place.
Masonry drill bit, 3” long bolts to go through 1/2 material, lock washers go under nut or use nylock nuts, 🤯
First things I noticed too.
They actually have a cable stopper to put on the cable to stop it before creating a issue like you had. Also, the lock washer belongs on the side with the nut and a nice weld around the bracket will keep it together for much longer.
Its supposed to use weak bolts. That way if you raise it to high you break the bolts rather than the frame or winch cable
good point
They should name those books something to indicate that they're designed to break or sheer. I know, sheer pins.
lock washers go on the nut side
@@petercalabrese4102 You beat me to the comment.👍👍👍👍👍
In addition to the note "Lock washers go on the nut side", you should also use a large flat washer on BOTH sides. As a bonus, spray the finished fasteners with silicone or other rust inhibitor of choice. You'll thank yourself some day.
Now with the bolts heavier we will bend something harder to fix !!!
Wow first time i ever seen steel get (hammer) drilled and ffs i think that was a concrete bit too lol
I was going to say the same. I normally don't use my hammer drill for drilling holes in steel. I do believe that is a masonry bit.
@@schrankm This guy knows just enough to be dangerous LOL
not really...
Came to the comment section for this.
Buddy is a toolbox
Lock washers go on the nut side. And a Hammer Drill, that is for concrete.
Bill Koller ya no kidding. What a jabroni
That's what I was thinking
@@chrisreid3155 wrong color
Second rookie mistake lmao
And that drill bit looked to me like a masonry bit.
I love your honesty about making a mistake!! You probably kept me from making the same mistake!!😊 Thank you!
I found the same issue on an old Kawaski Mule. I engineered the winch so the cable would go up and around a pulley that is about a foot above the highest the plow will lift. That way the plow can reach its maximum height and I can see the winch cable. Adding an extra pulley also allows the winch to lift the plow using only half the initial effort.
Wire a limit switch into the winch drive circuit. That is a good fix man. You are right, they skimped on the gauge of steel used. You made a good call on the locknuts and washers. (If it’s going to be vibrating constantly you need a lock washer or nut or both. You seem to have the wrong size lock washer on though...... it should be a nice slip fit .
Okay, I know this has all been said already and I'm late to the game...but I can't not comment:
A hammer drill is for CONCRETE - not steel - that's a great way to destroy bits and create uneven holes in steel.
Lock washers lock the NUT not the bolt and they a POOR job at that . Buy nylock nuts or use blue Loctite!
That cable "stop" is worthless - it didn't even fit snugly on your cable. If you want to stop overstressing your winch and cable, install a wired contact switch.
Be well,
Don
Wow, seriously, you should sell your tools.
I'd argue that that little piece breaking off is much much better than losing any other components
Use a snatch block to save your winch because of the angle. Also your cable will last less than one season because it constantly rolls on same spot. Use a rope winch cable.
Throw a carabiner on the end . If you hold up too long the carabiner will flatten out. Throw a new on one 15 second fix. And that rope is awsome ita all I use
Love it that you can make fun of your mistakes!!
When using lock washers they should go on the bolt next to the nut. The head of the bolt won't "walk" off but the nuts will work loose and drop off.
Lol
Maybe your wife could come out to the shop and show you how to properly use tools and hardware
I love this...!!!
I liked how he used the ratchet & socket on the bolt & not the nut 👍 i know either way works
Your a smart arse
Agree with Quaddingsous. Washers should be on the bottom side to help distribute the stress. Also, an old learning thing from the Navy, bolts go from the bottom up, then if you lose the nut, the bolt goes too. As you have it, if the nut were to fall off, the bolt would remain and you may not know in time that you have an issue.
Also the nuts will be visible so that they may be noticed prior to falling off and corrected.
Oh my god, nothing like using washers that are for bolts twice that size. And a masonry bit for drilling steel, HACK!
right?!?! Ive done some hackery but this made me cringe
Never trust a guy that calls a bolt a screw. Just saying. I am out lol
Also never trust a guy that drives a cfmoto
Sorry. I disagree. As a machinist, anything with an external thread is a screw and all screws used to fasten things together are called threaded fasteners. Fussy...yes. LOL!!
Lol! My exact thoughts.
You ain’t too bright boy
Buddy this video was hilarious!! Nicely done short film!
Thanks man, I appreciate that!!
You should consider putting a pulley in the setup to help reduce the strain on the winch. Did this for my warn plow system and it was awesome. Worked so much better
Not a bad idea, plus the travel speed would be cut in half.
Where would you hook it up?
@@UBAYBE hook it right onto the plow, then run the cable hook back up to the rack on the machine. I recommend lubing the length of cable that makes contact with the fairlead and pulley with silicone grease #3. That reduces the friction, and keeps the cable from trying to walk up the sides of the pulley, and keeps it in the pulley groove. In the winter, there’s no dust and dirt to stick to the grease, so that’s not a problem.
This is the Motoalliance Denali plow. They make a pulley system for it.
OK, so I'm not going to beat the dead horse about your mechanical skills, but a cable stop is a good idea, but here is a great idea so you don't make matters worse down the line: get an extension line for your winch to connect to the plow so you don't raise it to far and bend/break something else. I made mine the day I installed it because I foreseen the issue ahead of time. I raised the plow up once on the UTV, and placed blocks underneath to hold it at its high point. I then unhooked the winch and reeled it in. I then took two chain clevises and and attached them to the winch hook and the connection point on the plow. I measured between the two and cut a piece of chain to go between. the chain I had on hand made it so the cut piece was about 1/2" longer than my measurement, which also adds some breathing room when raising the plow. Attach the chain to the clevises, and your ready to go.
There are aftermarket items such as roller extensions and actual cables that do the same thing, but it's just another way to do it yourself if you want to try to be handy.
Dude...liked this video right way with the fact check skit!
Hahahaha! Thanks man.
Good stuff!
Thanks, Jim!
good video. like the repair.
Perfect,now you just got rid of the shear point so next time you can rip out the axle 😂
That closer loop you temporarily used almost looks like it would be less strain on the plow. But probably more strain on the winch.
The mid western anger so funny!! Lol
LOL Midwest anger! HAHAHA
😆
Yeah advice from someone who can't find the correct size washer for the bolt he is using. That's the ticket.
Also someone who uses a masonry bit for steel... dude isn't very competent..
@@aaronvangilder2499 he said “a hammer drill bit so it’ll go in easier” lmao has he never looked up bits that go through metal? And washers on the wrong side
Never seen someone put lock washers on bolt head end!😛
@@aaronvangilder2499 I thought I was seeing things..🤔
No one sponsors you because you're mechanically challenged......
Did you make this video as a joke?
LMAO - You are hilarious man!!! Great editing skills; poor mechanical skills - washers go on the nut side - hahaha - sorry buddy - I couldn't resist. Oh . . . . and one other thing you were wrong about . . . . this IS one of the most entertaining videos you've ever done (4:48).
Thanx for sharin'! . . . . . . . . . . (still LMAO!)
PS: we're not laughing at you, we're laughing with you.
Hahaha! Thanks man, I appreciate that. I am tracking the locking nuts. That was one of those things you realize and go "crap, I hope not too many people realize that I just did that!" 😂
Tha is again for the compliment, I appreciate that!
Love your vids Quaddingsous.
Navigate Offroad was watching this going “that’s not how you use lock washers.”🤣
Yea I couldn't believe he put the lock washers on the wrong side
Quaddingsous Oo no...I was definitely laughing at him!! 😂
I returned my eagle plow (the plow in this video) because when I called the company to ask a question about a specific mount, the lady on the other end of the phone was over the top rude and angry from "hello".
I ended up going with a full Kolpin High-rise pushtube, High-rise power angle unit, 66" poly plow blade and 3000lb winch on my Zforce 500. Lightweight and totally automatic.
For a cable stop i use a transport trailer suspension walking beam bushing. Very cheap
Should see the plow on mine. All welded up big time. Alot of new steel. Added
You guys bolt things up funny there in the USA.
They have that measurement thing backward as well !
Think I would raise the plow and then mount an atv fiberglass whip flag to the plow frame so that the flag pole touches the bumper. When you raise further the flag will fold forward as its bent by the bumper and let you know you have exceeded the lift angle. So in the down position the flag will start coming back as the plow is raised and then it will switch directions and bend forward.
love the flagpole idea, thanks for that!
When I first got my plow, I noticed this was an obvious weak point in the setup. So I bought a weatherproof pin switch and mounted it so the plow shuts off the winch when it reaches max height. Has worked perfect for about 8 years now and doesn't get in the way during summer cruising. Also, running the cable directly to the plow causes it to lift too fast, the Warn plows use a snatchblock-type setup that halves the speed of the winch.
Thanks for the comment and feedback! Can I ask what type of pin switch you used? Is it attached to the plow bracket?
The problem is simple physics. The angle of the cable is too far out so that you're pulling back against the plough instead of lifting it. That hook mount that you used to lift the blade to mount the other bracket actually gives you the proper lift angle(pretty much vertical & ideal). The other forward mount puts tremendous strain on the cable also so cable failure is eminent. How do I know this? Been there ..........done that.
You should cinch the cable stopper up higher on the cable so that it will actually stop it where you need it too.
Buy the snatch block that loops your winch rope back to the bumper. I have the same plow and I've abused the hell out of it for the last 2 years and haven't had this issue.
I realize that what I’m writing here is not EXACTLY in parallel with this video. BUT HERE THIS:
I bolted an HF WINCH ONTO THE FRONT OF MY KUBOTA GR-2100 LAWN TRACTOR ABOUT A YEAR AGO. NOW DISABLED, I can’t use my welder anymore and other equipment as well. So I had to BOLT IT ON A BRACKET THAT I MOUNTED ONTO THE FRONT OF MY MOWER WITHOUT USING ANY WELDING. AFTER MUCH SEARCHING FOR SOME GOOD MATERIAL THE BEST MATERIAL I FOUND WAS THREE PLATES THAT I PURCHASED AT HF. The PLATES WERE BEAUTIFUL. PAINTED IN POWDER COAT GRAY THAT MATCHED THE KUBOTA PERFECTLY, I WAS ABLE TO DRILL A COUPLE OF HOLES AND MAKE THE THREE PLATES WORK PERFECTLY AS MENTIONED. THEY COST $3.99 EACH AND I BOUGHT ONE FOR A SPARE. IT LOOKED FACTORY MADE!!
SHUCKS, I KNOW IT DIDN’T COMPLY WITH THE VIDEO BUT I BET SOME FOLKS GET THE POINT! THANKS!!
Green Horn for sure . All that extra bolt length sticking out the bottom could scratch up someone's hard surfaces .
lock washers on the nut side. BUT I found that nylock nuts work a lot better. been running them on the truck plow several years & they just stay put (?)
those were a very pleasant surprise. use nylock nuts on saws also and they dont vibrate loose - :)
another posted to put the bolts from bottom up. [a good idea.] as the studs [nut end] drags and wears making disassembly tough without cutting them off.
yeah the heads wear a bit, but can be reused.
if your afraid of losing a bolt? tack weld to the frame to hod it in place. [just another idea to ponder]
All I can say is I'm new to Montana winters and with a new Polaris 570 glacier plow setup . I have about 200 yards of driveway and associated tracks to out buildings. This setup has taken all I can give it. bashing into burms, busting through crusty frozen snow. Zero issues.
As a fastener salesman. Lock washer go on the bolt on the nut end not the under the head.
I just bought a kfi 72" for my ranger. You are best 5o remove the winch cable and use a short piece of tow strap in the winch.
By the way..... hammer drill bit are for masonry jobs. 🙈
Do you still like the KFI?
@@jwills3242 yes, works great still.
Still cant believe this guy used concrete bits to drill steel. Lol
Run the cable through a pulley on the plow then thread cable to a dead stop on the atv. Reduce the pull by 50%. I can't believe people don't do this. What a bunch of green horns LMAO🤣
My blade is manual lift with a handle, but sometimes when the snow is heavy I wish I had the winch setup.
I would put those bolts up from the bottom so the nuts are on the top. This way you can see if they come loose or you loose the nuts and them the bolts.
Isn't "Super relatively affordable" what they call an oxymoron? Plus, color coordination would demand a blue accessory rather than a boring same-color orange. :)
Fun video and got me thinking about my first-ever setup that I am now installing. Appreciate the pointer (and comments from others). Lots of sharp viewers out there too.
Upgrading the bolts is probably not the best. As you said, something’s gotta give. Those bolts are the failure point maybe designed into the plow to have a designated point of failure which is easy to fix. Now that you put what looks like grade 8 bolts, if you make the same mistake, what will break?
a pulley riser-bar on front... would allow for much less stress on winch and higher possible plow rise...and bolts should have been installed from bottom and nuts on top...
Nuts up - good ball
Wow, just wow. So much to see, so much to not repeat.
If it were me, I would not make the mount so strong. I'm sure it was designed as it was to be a sacrificial as to minimize more serious damage should someone hoist too much.
You need a snatch block and a hook strap up on your bumper. Makes it much easier on the winch.
Steel cables are crap too....
Your drill is in hammer mode.
I was drilling through steel with a steel bit and having trouble. Threw it in hammer mode to get the job done. Is there an issue with that and steel I'm not tracking?
Navigate Offroad ... it will dull your drill bit. If it’s already giving you trouble then it is probably dull anyway so I guess you would have nothing to loose by hammering it.
The problem with using a hammer drill is that it's actually like hitting the drill towards the metal with a hammer! Good for concrete, bad for metal. It's more likely to break a regular drill bit, so it's a good thing that you used what looks like a concrete bit with that drill but bad that you used that drill and bit on metal!
What you might have been thinking of is an Impact driver. An impact driver uses the rotational energy imparted into a spinning weight to impact the bit and DRIVE it in a circle. So if you were using it to screw a screw into some hard wood it would help you out. Or if you needed to loosen a stuck bolt from your vehicle, the added torque from the impact driver would break the stuck part free. However, I can't tell from the video if you actually have a hammer drill or an impact driver, so this information is more of a general FYI than a comment on your specific tool use.
I've never seen anyone drill steel with a masonry bit before this video.
well from what i know the washers should be on the under side no pressure on the top side it would be on the bottom and flared head bolt and nuts dont take lock washers the flare locks them in
What in the world is a FLARED HEAD BOLT??
Please explain what you are referring to.
Agree with some of the below comments. Washer on wrong side, put the bolt in upside down, weld the bracket right to the blade.
Also though, did you just use a masonry bit on hammer to drill steel? Lol
Like your content regardless.
There's something out there that's even better- maybe not cheap. I installed a magnetic fairlead on my winch so that if I forget to let off the button when raising the plow, (many times), it shuts off before breaking the rope (many times lol).It works great??
Really? That's awesome, I have never seen those. How does it stop the plow? I will have to go look them up, thanks for the tip.
That’s why I wire a prox switch in-line of the winch, that way it stops before it breaks something, in the cab you can’t see if you over lift it. Electrical kill it, those stoppers are not a cure. They help
Michael Block he couldn’t figure out how to use a lock washer, prox switches might as well be the NASA space shuttle to this clown! 😂 btw that’s a great idea! I use the same on my 3 point set up
For me, I wired in a new winch contactor. I wired outlets, under the hood. It took a bit of thinking. So I use a summer connection and a snowblower connection. I’m using a 6’ snowblower.
Midwest Anger!!! Blahahahahha! You're evil twin is kind of a D%$#, I like him!
I was thinking the same thing ! :-)
Bahahaha! Hes got a real anger problem we are working on 😂
The cable hook stopper will not do anything if you cannot have it set to max up pull for your plow. But then it will drag or be annoying when you remove the Plow.
the lock washers go on the nut side for future projects
Way too many issues here please read your comments and learn from some of us most of us have been if the field longer and may know some really great information. But good video to keep people aware of mistakes
My man
The lock washer goes on before the bolt!
Can you make a video on a sparkplug change for a cforce 800? No one has as of 6/26/22
Check out the Plow Alert Light System. Really cool new product a simple concept that is easy to install and will keep you from breaking cable or in your case the plow.
Lol, nice self advertisement there! But I'm intrigued and will check it out.
I cant a totally seem to find this product anywhere..
Here is the link. czcams.com/video/HbUxZM3Hqio/video.html @@NavigateOffroad
Cool concept, thanks for sharing!
Interesting...
I've been plowing snow '89. Started with a Suzuki 2wd quad runner, and now an '09 Artic Cat.
Both of these machines have run the M.U.D. Moose plow 54" (?). The ONLY thing that I have broke is the cable.
You get what you pay for.
Any recommendations on those skid deals that prevent your steel edge from scraping the concrete??
I have Koplin plow.
Dude, its 2019. Get you a lithium powered drill and get rid that dinosaur! Just kidding, Ive still got my old XRP my dad gave me something like 20 years ago. About to order a Denali plow myself, thanks for the heads up on the winch cable bumper.
Back off TJ I love that drill! 😂
Glad to hear the video was helpful. Good luck on the plow! They are so awesome and helpful.
Well… ya need to know… the lock washers go behind the nuts… not the bolts. Also, ya need a different place on the plow to hook the winch. Your hooking point is too far forward. That angle is not lifting “UP” on the plow. It’s more pulling back on the bracket instead of “UP” on it, and the higher the blade goes the worse the angle gets putting more and more backward pressure on the bracket. THAT’S why the bracket broke. Basic geometry.
Lock washers go before the nut goes on
Lock washers don't go under the head of the bolt...they go on the Nut side.
I wouldn't be putting my hands under there without something else holding it up. That cable breaks or slips it won't feel good.
Lock washer goes on the nut end to prevent it from backing off.......
Oock washer go on but side, use shorter bolts those will drag on the ground. Hammer drill to go through metal? They are for concrete
I think it would be less stress on the plow/winch/cable if you hooked on at the attachment point directly below the fairlead, more of an up/down vertical motion versus pulling back...?
Actually it's easier to pull from further out because of where the pivot point for the winch and winch plate are.
That other spot we connected to does work well to hold the blade off the ground when needed though 😀
Thanks for the input, Bryce.
Midwest ATV that makes sense. Different theory with a front mount versus mid mount.
Cable would be lucky to make it one or two storms. Running it over that sharp of a bend will break the strands down in no time and it will snap.
Lock washer on the nut side eh do it right the first time.
Why not put a spring between the winch and the plow? The plow does not look like it's super heavy. I think it would give some cushion and leeway when raising it.
Somebody show this guy how to delete a video. He must like making himself look foolish.
And you all missed this part...the flat and lock washers are the wrong size for the bolt....if you need a bigger washer you should use a fender washer which is bigger outside diameter and right bolt size!!
Wait a hammer drill with a concrete bit ...I want to see more
This is why I built my own blade, no chance my winch is pulling anything apart on my blade lol!
That's awesome! How did you build one? Do you actually have the ability and knowledge to bend metal?
Navigate Offroad Yes, check it out, lots of videos of it on my channel, go to playlists to find it easier. It’s a 6’ I run on a Dodge Neon.
@@CarswithNash haha, dude thats crazy! Just went and checked it out. I can't believe that neon worked that well for plowing. Its such a small and light car. Plus I think I heard you say you have over 250 hours of plowing with it..that's nuts! Cool man.
Navigate Offroad Yep, I get over 6 ft of snow per winter on my acreage, lots of plowing, I’ve yet to break anything beyond the winch cable. I’m actually revamping the whole setup currently and I plan to add some small wings on my blade so it will carry a bit more snow. Thanks for taking the time to check it out, I sub’ed to you now.
@@CarswithNash That's awesome Matt. I love the uniqueness of your setup. I would say you probably get a lot of looks from others passing by but I'm guessing you don't get too many of those. How much acreage do you own?
Thanks for the sub man, I appreciate that!
He is almost so handy like my nieces!🤭
You had stitch also curtains?🤣
Number one if your using a masonry bit on steel do not run the drill in hammer mode that is for concrete only yes masonry bits will drill through steel will get you out of a pinch but buy metal drill Bitts. I would have welded that plate on its way stronger if done correctly
Nothing like Kubata
That really looks like it’s a design flaw in the plow. The attachment point should pull directly toward the winch. If it did, you wouldn’t have had this problem.
It's built that way to keep the winch from bending or breaking other things 🥸
He is so proud about 3 screws washers and nuts ! Is there a patent pending on it ?
Joke is on you!!! There were no SCREWS used in this video!!!
@@jamesglenn520 ok 3 bolts if you prefer ....
HEY DOPEY THE LOCK WASHERS GO UNDER THE NUTS HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHA
Dopey has lock nuts, lock washers unnecessary! Lol
@@stevearsenault4898 FKN FUNNY RITE HAHAHA
Lil bit of what I call I have more money than brains 🤣
you should of put the locking washer on the nut side of the bolt
Get the new Polaris winch with auto stop and you will never break another bracket or cable!
I hope he's not relying on that winch and plate to hold the plow while his hand is under there.
Washer and lock washer goes against the nut