Thanks for watching really appreciate it. To be honest I can do them in about 3hrs maybe less. But if your doing it for the first time it might take you more longer
"Why" these go through clutches for fun - often just wrecking the clutch center while not having any wear to speak of on the friction material - is due to the utter pish they use in the master/slave/pipework to them System - have a delve into the master cylinder - it's a crappy plastic plunger in a crappy plastic casing with a crappy plastic push-rod. They use 1 teensy tiny seal to keep pressure - nothing more than a boggo O ring. Imagine a syringe with more rubbish seals & you're getting the gist - I.E Crap. . Then they have the most convoluted, windy, gimpy path they run the pipe along - guaranteed to trap air and because it's so long, with such a weedy master cylinder, with such a tiny stroke capacity, you're almost guaranteed issues. Next "layer" of crappiness is the slave cylinder - firstly, they're crap - and secondly 3/4 of the crappy stroke does nothing - only on the last 1/4 does it actuate the clutch - which is almost guaranteed to be a compromised 1/4 of the stroke due to the utter sh**e master cylinders & the fact air will probably be present in the line to some extent - getting it all out requires you to be a Ninja Bleeder & most aren't. Then factor in that the geniuses didn't incorporate ANY hydraulic advantage to the system - the plunger in the master is the same bore-size as the plunger in the slave - I.E ignoring basic hydraulic principles, mainly so the utterly rubbish master cylinders don't burst, which they certainly would if asked to do anything beyond 1:1 as they are utterly rubbish. Did I mention they are rubbish? Next - you have to factor in the unutterably garbage bleed screws they use on the slaves. Junk. Total junk. If you open them even a crack, they are no longer air-tight at the base - so forget about suction/pressure bleeding because it ain't gonna work on these puppies - you will pop on your pipe & the crappy bleed screw will suck/blow air the minute you apply vacuum/pressure - the designer must never have come across a brake bleed screw before being asked to design these yokes. So you're back to using the teensy, tiny, weedy master cylinder to do the bleeding - which it is hopelessly undersized/underbuilt to be able to do, due to the sheer length of the stupidly routed line. Hence these eat clutches/have gear selection issues constantly & often come right out of the factory with rubbish clutch actions - plus they are a pita to do a clutch on, despite what people might tell you. Pretty much. In a nutshell.
Another "Fun" design feature that might catch you out is the feed to the master from the combined brake/clutch reservoir - if you pop the rubber feed pipe off the master, chances are you will be amazed at how little fluid will leak - often, none will. That's because the rubber pipe itself is airlocked as bubbles have accumulated at the stub it comes off the reservoir at - meaning no fluid is getting to the master. You clamp the rubber hose half-way, pop off the clip, pull it off the master .....and it's bone dry.. no fluid leaks. Well.. that's a problem right there before we start, Boss..
I have problems with the same vehicle but when you change the gear lever it does move D its seen on the dashboard us N with selecting
Great clip well explained thanks R4UL TV
No worries thanks for watching really appreciate
Thanks man
Thanks for watching really appreciate it
Nice video! For clutch kits do you also recommend a Valeo kit next to LUK and Sachs? Cheers
Valeo Clutch kits are not too bad their ok. On some occasions I bought LUK only to find it has a valeo clutch on some cars they are OE
@@TEAMR4ULTV alright thanks man!
How many bell housing bolts are there in total?
hello tell me something my clutch is high and normal is it adjustable?
I dont think they are adjustable
Very good video! Please tell me, what's the approximate weight of the gearbox?
I really dont know that but get a friend to give you a hand
Hi how long dose it take to do a clutch on these cars thanks dave Great video
Thanks for watching really appreciate it. To be honest I can do them in about 3hrs maybe less. But if your doing it for the first time it might take you more longer
@@TEAMR4ULTV 0K THANKS VERY MUCH
👍
Thanks for watching really appreciate it. Thanks for your support.
Is a a manual gearbox or a semiautomatic gearbox?
Thanks for watching really appreciate it. This one Is s full manual gear box
R u mr clutch employe???
No am not. But clutches are my speciality, thanks for watching really appreciate it
Cannot believe driveshaft oil seals weren’t replaced for new items
Hi thanks for watching really appreciate it. As for the driveshaft seal it's not a hard job so if its goes in the future I'll replace it.
"Why" these go through clutches for fun - often just wrecking the clutch center while not having any wear to speak of on the friction material - is due to the utter pish they use in the master/slave/pipework to them System - have a delve into the master cylinder - it's a crappy plastic plunger in a crappy plastic casing with a crappy plastic push-rod. They use 1 teensy tiny seal to keep pressure - nothing more than a boggo O ring. Imagine a syringe with more rubbish seals & you're getting the gist - I.E Crap. .
Then they have the most convoluted, windy, gimpy path they run the pipe along - guaranteed to trap air and because it's so long, with such a weedy master cylinder, with such a tiny stroke capacity, you're almost guaranteed issues. Next "layer" of crappiness is the slave cylinder - firstly, they're crap - and secondly 3/4 of the crappy stroke does nothing - only on the last 1/4 does it actuate the clutch - which is almost guaranteed to be a compromised 1/4 of the stroke due to the utter sh**e master cylinders & the fact air will probably be present in the line to some extent - getting it all out requires you to be a Ninja Bleeder & most aren't.
Then factor in that the geniuses didn't incorporate ANY hydraulic advantage to the system - the plunger in the master is the same bore-size as the plunger in the slave - I.E ignoring basic hydraulic principles, mainly so the utterly rubbish master cylinders don't burst, which they certainly would if asked to do anything beyond 1:1 as they are utterly rubbish. Did I mention they are rubbish?
Next - you have to factor in the unutterably garbage bleed screws they use on the slaves. Junk. Total junk. If you open them even a crack, they are no longer air-tight at the base - so forget about suction/pressure bleeding because it ain't gonna work on these puppies - you will pop on your pipe & the crappy bleed screw will suck/blow air the minute you apply vacuum/pressure - the designer must never have come across a brake bleed screw before being asked to design these yokes. So you're back to using the teensy, tiny, weedy master cylinder to do the bleeding - which it is hopelessly undersized/underbuilt to be able to do, due to the sheer length of the stupidly routed line.
Hence these eat clutches/have gear selection issues constantly & often come right out of the factory with rubbish clutch actions - plus they are a pita to do a clutch on, despite what people might tell you.
Pretty much. In a nutshell.
Another "Fun" design feature that might catch you out is the feed to the master from the combined brake/clutch reservoir - if you pop the rubber feed pipe off the master, chances are you will be amazed at how little fluid will leak - often, none will. That's because the rubber pipe itself is airlocked as bubbles have accumulated at the stub it comes off the reservoir at - meaning no fluid is getting to the master. You clamp the rubber hose half-way, pop off the clip, pull it off the master .....and it's bone dry.. no fluid leaks.
Well.. that's a problem right there before we start, Boss..
You have too much time on your hands to type this whole story haha
@@SemteVruchte I type fast. :-)