This was very helpful, I appreciate your concise presentation without the somewhat standard childish comic efforts that detract from a serious matter. My cutter had a damaged bolt and nut combination, which required a seven foot extension over a 3/4" breaker to unthread the nut. Of course, a new nut and bolt will be required to replace the blade. Your presentation encouraged me and has made this task much easier. One bolt has finally been removed, and the other is soaking in loosening solvent. The dealer quoted me 1.5 hours and $300.00 for the labor to replace the two blades. Thank you very much for your help.
I follow pretty much the same procedure on my Bush Hog SQ160. I have two sets of blades that I alternate every 50 hours or so, dressing the set that I remove so that it will be ready to install next maintenance period. Removing the blades regularly helps to avoid problematic blade removal due to rust and corrosion. I use a 3/4" drive breaker bar with a 5' galvanized pipe as a cheater bar. The recommended torque for my machine is 600 ft-lbs, so I torque it until I go "ugh!" This has worked for me for the last 20 years. Periodic replacement of the bolts and nuts is also recommended.
Thanks for showing your underside clearance for the blades. My one side has been bent for a while and I need to figure a way to straighten it out so the new blades I put on like yours clear the lip on the underside. I used a lot of penetrant to loosen my bolts. My blades fractured near the ends.
Great video and info. Thank you. BTW…my Land Pride RCF2072 bush hog blade snapped off at the same location and threw the blade through the deck in almost the same spot. I was cutting high grass/brush and hit a mound of dirt. No rocks, stumps, or otherwise rough terrain. Wow! Fragile piece of equipment in my opinion.
You ain't kidding about being lucky that blade departed in the direction it was going but dang for it to go right through the housing like that, I would be welding some heavy thick gauge steel up front as a guard to keep it from throwing a blade in my direction. Take care and be safe!
Excellent video, much appreciated. I needed my blades ASAP so I got a set at tractor supply. They look the same. So I’m not sure why they show two different blades in the manual
Great video! I have to remove one one mine after hitting some fence wire in high grass that I didn't know was there. One question and one comment. First...comment. WD-40 is a great product but is NOT a penetrant. If you want to try something awesome use some Kroil from Kano Labs. Second...question. Why didn't you use an impact gun to break those bolts loose? I would think that would have been easier.
Be careful how you support the cutter, the front can still drop if you only support the back, not trying to criticize you, I just didn't realize it myself till the 3pt leaked down while I went to town
@@RidgeLife cool! I did find a torque up to 600lbs for 209, looks like a deal. from Performance, has good ratings for the brand. Think I'll take the plunge. I have other nuts that require a higher torque, notwithstanding my self, lol.
@@homesculptor You can buy a 3/4" drive 150-750 ft lb digital torque adapter from Horror Fright for right at $70. Beats paying $400 for the Icon 3/4" drive 100-600 ft lb torque wrench.
This was very helpful, I appreciate your concise presentation without the somewhat standard childish comic efforts that detract from a serious matter. My cutter had a damaged bolt and nut combination, which required a seven foot extension over a 3/4" breaker to unthread the nut. Of course, a new nut and bolt will be required to replace the blade. Your presentation encouraged me and has made this task much easier. One bolt has finally been removed, and the other is soaking in loosening solvent. The dealer quoted me 1.5 hours and $300.00 for the labor to replace the two blades. Thank you very much for your help.
My pleasure!
I follow pretty much the same procedure on my Bush Hog SQ160. I have two sets of blades that I alternate every 50 hours or so, dressing the set that I remove so that it will be ready to install next maintenance period. Removing the blades regularly helps to avoid problematic blade removal due to rust and corrosion. I use a 3/4" drive breaker bar with a 5' galvanized pipe as a cheater bar. The recommended torque for my machine is 600 ft-lbs, so I torque it until I go "ugh!" This has worked for me for the last 20 years. Periodic replacement of the bolts and nuts is also recommended.
Good call!
Absolutely great video and well informative. Now I have more confidence and information to change my blades on my 5'ft Land Pride. Again thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for showing your underside clearance for the blades. My one side has been bent for a while and I need to figure a way to straighten it out so the new blades I put on like yours clear the lip on the underside. I used a lot of penetrant to loosen my bolts. My blades fractured near the ends.
Yeah same issue often here!
Best video I have seen thank you so much !!!!
My pleasure. Thanks!
Great video. Nice pleasant host too! First class!
Awe thx!
Wow yea that makes your heart skip a beat. Always a fun job by yourself.
Oh yeah!
Great video and info. Thank you.
BTW…my Land Pride RCF2072 bush hog blade snapped off at the same location and threw the blade through the deck in almost the same spot. I was cutting high grass/brush and hit a mound of dirt. No rocks, stumps, or otherwise rough terrain. Wow! Fragile piece of equipment in my opinion.
That’s wild! Thx!
Your slip clutch isn't slipping, loosen it up let it slip.
Oh my! Glad you are safe! That could've been bad.
Pretty scary too see that hole int eh steel housing!!! Thx
Great video ! However I do recommend always using a new lock nuts though. The old ones may not grip as well after being removed.
Great point!
You ain't kidding about being lucky that blade departed in the direction it was going but dang for it to go right through the housing like that, I would be welding some heavy thick gauge steel up front as a guard to keep it from throwing a blade in my direction. Take care and be safe!
Thanks brother! Ernie has one for you to change too I hear!!!
@@RidgeLife, I am sure there is plenty for me to do!
It happens because people don't season the slip clutch or properly adjust it to slip before using. Sheer pin models hardly ever do this.
I feel your pain. Well actually I was lucky too today when I hit a rock I didn’t see! Blade right put the side.
Ouch!
Good job! I use a length of 3/4" or 1" pipe to add leverage when I need additional wrenching power. Best wishes.
Great idea! Thanks!
Great how to video tim!
Thanks!
keep up the good work.
Thanks, you too!
Excellent video, much appreciated. I needed my blades ASAP so I got a set at tractor supply. They look the same. So I’m not sure why they show two different blades in the manual
Hmm… I’m not sure about that. No issues from mine so far. Good luck!
Thanks for the video. One thing I wonder is, The shop did $1400.00 worth of work on the gear box? How did they not see damaged blades?
I'm sure they would say it was internal but you know how that goes.
Great video! I have to remove one one mine after hitting some fence wire in high grass that I didn't know was there. One question and one comment. First...comment. WD-40 is a great product but is NOT a penetrant. If you want to try something awesome use some Kroil from Kano Labs. Second...question. Why didn't you use an impact gun to break those bolts loose? I would think that would have been easier.
KRoil is awesome! Unfortunately, I didn’t have an impact at the time.
Thank you
You're welcome!
Don't forget you have to put a new lock nut on even if you reuse the old bolts.
Hmm… I never have and neither has the dealer when I had it done previously. It makes sense though thx!
@@RidgeLife Your welcome also don't forget the slip clutch has to be adjusted and slipped at the start of mowing season every year to get rust off.
Use the handle from a hydraulic jack on a 3/4" ratchet bar to lock down the nuts.
Nice!
450 lbs of torque?! Sheesh!
Oh yeah!
Thanks. I’ve got the same model about 3 yrs old. I need to check and Change blades. Build help
Good luck!
Hey! This is great! I bet ours hasn't been changed in about 8 years! Can you swing by the crib later and do it?
Ha! I bet Ed know a very well how do to this!
@@RidgeLife He does but he isn't Ridgelife!
Ha!
Be careful how you support the cutter, the front can still drop if you only support the back, not trying to criticize you, I just didn't realize it myself till the 3pt leaked down while I went to town
Absolutely Tyler. Thx!
Thumbnail made me laugh today man
Ha! Thx
I have an RCR1884. Where did you find the torques numbers? Also, can I ask where you bought your blades? Thanks for the video!
I got my blades from the Kubota dealer near me and the specs came from the manual I believe. Take care.
Okay, so I'm typically a stickler on torque. I've never felt what 400 lbs feels like. But, has the blades stayed on after?
Oh yeah! Good to go.
@@RidgeLife cool! I did find a torque up to 600lbs for 209, looks like a deal. from Performance, has good ratings for the brand. Think I'll take the plunge. I have other nuts that require a higher torque, notwithstanding my self, lol.
Nice!
@@homesculptor You can buy a 3/4" drive 150-750 ft lb digital torque adapter from Horror Fright for right at $70. Beats paying $400 for the Icon 3/4" drive 100-600 ft lb torque wrench.
1st
Yay!!!