Rev the motorcycle to around 4k rpm and sync' there or a reasonable cruising RPM. Syncing at idle isn't relevant as the engine spends most of it's time at cruising RPM's.
That was a great demonstrative video. The restrictor valves could use a little more demonstration. I don't know how you did that. It seems to be a key feature of how you get an accurate reading.
I used to use an oil filled manometer that I made around a slat of wood. Worked okay but I was a pain if the manometer fell over. I then made a twin gauge panel. I really like that.
Dude! I did this with a tube filled with AT fluid and rev'd to 4,500 and sync'd my R1200GSA there. That's where the engine spends most of it's time and where your hands and fingers will go numb if not sync'd. You can fine tune idle using other methods but you spent way too much time on the idle sync' and not cruising RPM where it matters. Consider remaking this but synchronizing at cruise RPM.
After Sync the carburetors. Can you connect the 2 Vacume hose together if and once the AIS is disabled and not being used. What difference will it make once they are connected? Reason I ask is that, I seen folks on CZcams connected them. Just curious and need some inputs. Thanks
Hi can yo answer this good question After Sync the carburetors. Can you connect the 2 Vacuum hose together if and once the AIS is disabled and not being used?
Thanks for this. I balanced just like you did, but I lost about 50% of my power. Valves are recently set to spec and carbs are clean. Any idea what I did wrong?
@@motorcyclemanthony1552 what kind of valve? I have a set of similar gauges and it came with a lot of fittings and adapters but no valve. Mine also has the needle just go crazy while the bike idles and the only way they behave is when revving the engine up. I think you mean something like a check valve to prevent reverse airflow?
Hello! Looking at buying this tool aswell. Did you need to buy 6mm adapters? I saw something about that in the product description! Let me know! Thanks!
Shouldn't needles be in green position (normal position) if everything is ok with the carbs and engine? Normal readings should be 17-21 inHg as far as I know but here you have around 11. I have just bought these kind of gauges but I still didn't try them on my bike.
You want to ignore where they're pointing as far as the "normal part" . This is just to see that the vaccume is the same and moves up and back to where you set it after your blip the throttle.
@@yakmalxc Rev the motorcycle to around 4k rpm and sync' there or a reasonable cruising RPM. Syncing at idle isn't relevant as the engine spends most of it's time at cruising RPM's.
Hi if I sync the carbs at idle the bike buzzes at 100-120kmh. If I tweak the screw I can get it to not buzz at 100-120khm, but them the idle is way different. Any ideas ? It’s more important not yo buzz at highway speed.
Rev the motorcycle to around 4k rpm and sync' there or a reasonable cruising RPM. Syncing at idle isn't relevant as the engine spends most of it's time at cruising RPM's.
@@mattcero1 I ended up connecting two vacuum gauges with the adjustable valve to the top of the fuel tank. So I can check it at all speeds while riding around to make them even. It’s perfect now. Ignored idle settings.
That red is if you were using this for a car carburetor. The readings are different on a motorcycle. All that matters for the purpose of a motorcycle is that the 2 needles are in the same place.
Clear, straight to the point and enough detail to avoid any confusion. Good Video instruction!
Your vids have really been helping me. I have 1998 650 vstar so everything you do in all your vids is the same procedure for me.
Rev the motorcycle to around 4k rpm and sync' there or a reasonable cruising RPM. Syncing at idle isn't relevant as the engine spends most of it's time at cruising RPM's.
That was a great demonstrative video. The restrictor valves could use a little more demonstration. I don't know how you did that. It seems to be a key feature of how you get an accurate reading.
I used to use an oil filled manometer that I made around a slat of wood. Worked okay but I was a pain if the manometer fell over. I then made a twin gauge panel. I really like that.
Dude! I did this with a tube filled with AT fluid and rev'd to 4,500 and sync'd my R1200GSA there. That's where the engine spends most of it's time and where your hands and fingers will go numb if not sync'd. You can fine tune idle using other methods but you spent way too much time on the idle sync' and not cruising RPM where it matters. Consider remaking this but synchronizing at cruise RPM.
Great video. And this, is why you want a fuel injected bike, boys and girls😂
This was a great help, thank you brotha.
Awesome video bro.
I APPROVED OF THIS VIDEO
👍😎
Great video, really informative. Keep up the good work!
I really appreciate that, thank you. Ride safe!
The sound of the bike sounds great, sexy. It sounds like percussive glass pak.
Great video.
Thanks for the video dude!
Thanks for showing me where the screw is lol
Thanks mate. 👍😁
How do them little valve things go on the vacc lines to the gauages i got a ebay kit and it has plastic tee.peices
After Sync the carburetors. Can you connect the 2 Vacume hose together if and once the AIS is disabled and not being used. What difference will it make once they are connected? Reason I ask is that, I seen folks on CZcams connected them. Just curious and need some inputs. Thanks
Hi can yo answer this good question After Sync the carburetors. Can you connect the 2 Vacuum hose together if and once the AIS is disabled and not being used?
Is this the same for the vstar 1100?
Is this what you do when you change your exhaust or add a hypercharger?
This has nothing to do with how much fuel your bike gets it’s just to make sure all butterflies on the carb open at the same time
Thanks for this. I balanced just like you did, but I lost about 50% of my power. Valves are recently set to spec and carbs are clean. Any idea what I did wrong?
Don't sync your carb at idle rpms, sync at whatever rpm you tend to cruise at
How did you get the needles to not bounce everywhere. I'm trying to sync mine and it is all over the gauge
The vacuum hose going to your gauge should have a valve. Slowly close it to fine tune.
@@motorcyclemanthony1552 what kind of valve? I have a set of similar gauges and it came with a lot of fittings and adapters but no valve. Mine also has the needle just go crazy while the bike idles and the only way they behave is when revving the engine up. I think you mean something like a check valve to prevent reverse airflow?
@@ghg8257 @2:55 on this video.
Why do all the mechanically inclined seem to have adhd? Haha
Hello!
Looking at buying this tool aswell. Did you need to buy 6mm adapters?
I saw something about that in the product description!
Let me know!
Thanks!
I didn't have to order anything separate. It also came with an external fuel canister, very helpful.
Thank you
Don't you set the idle mixture by vacuum too?
that’s determined by rpm, you want idle to be around 1150
Shouldn't needles be in green position (normal position) if everything is ok with the carbs and engine? Normal readings should be 17-21 inHg as far as I know but here you have around 11. I have just bought these kind of gauges but I still didn't try them on my bike.
You want to ignore where they're pointing as far as the "normal part" . This is just to see that the vaccume is the same and moves up and back to where you set it after your blip the throttle.
@@yakmalxc Rev the motorcycle to around 4k rpm and sync' there or a reasonable cruising RPM. Syncing at idle isn't relevant as the engine spends most of it's time at cruising RPM's.
Hi if I sync the carbs at idle the bike buzzes at 100-120kmh. If I tweak the screw I can get it to not buzz at 100-120khm, but them the idle is way different. Any ideas ? It’s more important not yo buzz at highway speed.
Rev the motorcycle to around 4k rpm and sync' there or a reasonable cruising RPM. Syncing at idle isn't relevant as the engine spends most of it's time at cruising RPM's.
@@mattcero1 I ended up connecting two vacuum gauges with the adjustable valve to the top of the fuel tank. So I can check it at all speeds while riding around to make them even. It’s perfect now. Ignored idle settings.
If it's in the red, isn't that bad , meaning needs work or troubleshooting?
No
That red is if you were using this for a car carburetor. The readings are different on a motorcycle. All that matters for the purpose of a motorcycle is that the 2 needles are in the same place.
@@DoomFinger511 That was the answer I needed thanks.
Isn't that needed to be in the normal box?🤔
What you mean normal box
Crap
Tiny bike.