Wet vs Dry lube | What's the difference?
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- čas přidán 8. 07. 2024
- In this video I go over the differences in wet and dry / wax lubricants, the advantages and disadvantages and where I use them.
Links:
Using Dry lubricants: • Ways to re wax your ch...
Clean your chain: Wet lubricants: • How To Wash Your Bike ...
How to wax your chain: • How to wax your chain ...
Zero Friction Cycling: zerofrictioncycling.com.au
Chapters:
00:00 - Intro
00:56 - Wet/ Dry
02:04 - Adv/ Dis
07:31 - When to use
09:18 - Recommendations - Sport
Ever triend hot waxing your chains ? I think I’ll never gonna use lubricants no more
It’s actually all I do instead of the drip wax. I have made 2 videos on the Chanel so far. But still don’t like it for the winter bike.
Way faster and easier than both methods isn’t it.
Always Chain L wet lube for me. I ride too much to play around with dry lube every week.
we ride in saudi.. dry lube is the only choice.
You may read the test porcedure of zerofrictioncycling. U will find why it SEAMES that wax based lubs superior. 🤦♂️ Hind: Hot wax chains get cleaned after dirt, the rest not .... Buy an ultrasonic cleaner for 50 bucks, use wet lub every 200km and throw the chain every 500-1000km in the cleaner for 5min. It will be as good as the best waxes but at a quater of the cost and effort .... to buy 4$/kg paraphin wax for 80-120$ seams a bit special. Educate yourself 👍
Please can you link below where you have these prices?
For me I tent to go through 1 bag of silca hot melt wax a year with is £40 here in the uk. Not bad when you consider I haven’t needed a new cassette our chainring in 40,000km and each chain so far has lasted around 15,000km for me.
No doubt that your method would work well but I would like to see some data if possible using that method? If you have some, please can you provide it for me?
There are also other disadvantages for me personally:
A lot more cleaning with wet lubricants with the cassette, chainring and anything that sprays onto the frame. I personally find it’s so much faster to clean a bike to look perfectly clean with wax.
If you puncture or need to put your bike in your care. No lube or grease to get your hands or car dirty.
Still have to purchase and use the degreaser with your method, which has to be worse for the environment when disposing of it.
The variability of quality with oil based lubricants as ZFC has shown with data, there are only 2-3 wet lubricants I would spend my own money on.
These might not bother you though.
Finally, I would argue with cost for your method
5 litres Degreaser £12
X2 lubricants £10-£15 £30 each for a good one
Yearly cost £32-72. This is the same range as I spend on wax per year.
I would gladly have you show me some of your yearly costs though if you can get that life and milage from the components with your method, with what and how much degreaser and lubricants you use.
I look forward to your highly educational and data driven response.
@@cyclingunboxed U are right. Was misslead, a friend bought a 40g block Rex Black modifier for 35 bucks 875€\kg, did not check that u have to mix it 1:4 or 1: 11 ... which is 175 or 85€\kg. But 80€/kg Silica and up to 175€\kg Rex is still hell of a lot for cheap paraphin wax with some graphit (which also costs nothing) in it. Not to mention drip wax, UFO black at 240€/l for 180ml and Silca super secret at 316€/l for 60ml. Have correct the first post
... and u are right to that the same companies sell oil with some additives for mind buggling prices. Buy plain heavy duty oil for 10€/l ... that's what's used in industry and aerospace ...
@@cyclingunboxed The point is you will not need new chains or cassette if you clean it properly with an ultra sonic or chain cleaner like you do when you rewax ... you have to compare wax + perfect cleaning and oil + perfect cleaning and that's what zerofrictioncycling does NOT do. Wax is not a lubricant it's the left overs after the extration of white oil, which is an very good lubricant.
With the wax. It’s is cheap, no doubt about that.
However they have already done the work to find the correct hardness of paraffin. Too soft it pushes out too quickly as pick ups dirt.
Too hard it takes too long to break in or will flake.
You might get lucky and buy the correct paraffin first time but you might not.
Then it changes again when they add the tungsten disulphide additive which they have to work out the correct ratio for.
It’s a lot of work on your own if you want it perfect. I’m happy to pay £40 a year for the perfect mix and that’s ok.
The lubricant aspect is different. I believe that wax works by leaving a hard polish after 5-10k of riding on the inside of the links. The metal doesn’t touch metal anymore it’s hard polished wax on polished wax. We know that from ceramic speed testing that this is the lowest friction chain we can make so far.
I still maintain that the cleanliness aspect is by far the best part of wax and will always be better than any wet lubricant used. This for me is a huge benefit.
Before I even consider the other method I need to see some testing and data which no one has done yet (Including ZFC). But I do keep track of my own chain and cassette mileage which correlates with what we see in other test data sets.
@@cyclingunboxed The problem is that every bike lubricant sold to privat persons is just expensive snake oil. How to you know, it has no datasheet, does not meet basic industry standards/norms and the prices are just a rip off. It's sad. We use expensive application specific lubricants in aerospace but nothing comes even close what cyclists pay for lubricants ... and bike drivetrains are a very very low load application. Thats why you can even use non lubricants like wax. It's just an expensive labor intensive hype ... if u feel u need to use wax use plain paraphin wax for 2-4 bucks per kg. And rewax more often than the zerofrictioncycling messias did. You will get the same results as the expensive suff.