Hobby Cheating 192 - Speed Painting Base Coats (No Airbrush)
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- čas přidán 7. 06. 2019
- In this Hobby Cheating Tutorial, I take you through my method for laying down base coats that lets you speed paint with contrast without an airbrush. Hope you enjoy!
Twitter: @warhammerweekly
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Even if you paint something awesome by accident, you still painted something awesome. I actually set aside the anxiety today and painted bravely.
That's awesome to hear and I totally agree.
I have found many of your videos useful to date. But you have no idea how much just clicked for me with this one. Thanks.
That is awesome to hear and happy to help as always.
“Geeeet outta here.” Lol, you’re the best, dude, always appreciate your candor and your kindness, man. Thank u for the hard work and effort you put into creating content for all us plebs. (We’re not all plebs, I know - only speaking for myself lol.)
Thank you, no one is a pleb. Everyone is on their own place on the hobby journey, happy to help as always. :)
This would be more than enough to get my miniatures on table. I'll definitely give it a try. Thank you for this whole serie. :)
Awesome, happy to help as always.
You are a hell of a teacher Vince, I've said it before, I have been painting models on and off for 40 years and I have learned more in the last 18 months watching you than at any other time, many thanks and keep up the amazing work.
That is wonderful to hear and I am very happy to help as always. :)
Thank you for this!
I have been trying to glaze a space marine I to a satin type armor. For days. This was the push I needed to stop worrying and have fun. I grabbed some warcolours marine 5 and 3 and did the shoulder pads. 10 minutes of work and it looks way better than what I had been doing.
Most fun. I have had painting in awhile. Especially with warcolours. They have been a bit difficult to use. I went for it straight out of the bottle and it worked well. Thanks!
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
can't tell you how much these, and other paint videos have helped me. I'm still learning and trying to get better, but they've helped me understand what i need to work on. Thank you.
That is awesome to hear, happy to help as always. :)
A great video demo'ing just how fast a person can be and still get aspirational results, along with interesting commentary on the painting process vs what is considered the norm. Great timing on this upload as well, thanks vince!
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
Thank you Vince! bewteen this video and the PMP are helping me to learn a different way of painting other than the basecoat+washed+highlight , hopefully later this year I will be able to challenge myself to get more tools in the painting toolbox and get a different painted army under my belt. Very insightful and useful.
Excellent, happy to help as always.
This video spoke to me on so many levels. I think your comments on confidence and fear of laying on the paint really hit a note.
I am glad I was finally able to find the time to watch some of your videos
That is wonderful to hear. happy to help as always. :)
Really inspiring video, thank you ! I'm struggling to have proper contrast on my minis and I feel your tutorials are a goldmine of information.
Happy to help as always. :)
Thanks for this video vince! The amount of time you did this in😂..
Also loved the "you are the master of the model, it does not master you". Have to put that on a paper and pin it to my wall😂
It's words to live by. Happy to help. :)
Thank you for showing how to paint on zenithal priming!!! This is an eye opener for me!
Happy to help as always. I have so many more videos on Zenithals, as there are lots of places one can go. :)
I like how you measure models in terms of their relative size to an orge. "This model is a 1.5 Larry. This model is a 2 Larry."
Everything is multiples or fractions of Ogres, they are the universal measure to be sure.
One thing I noticed that wasn’t verbalized (yet obvious) is having your paints on the pallet BEFORE starting. My analysis paralysis kicks in with “what should I use now” that slows me down. Embrace the Bob Ross spirit!
Yeah, you are dead on there.
That, and having a really good idea of the value sketching. I find myself slowed down by trying to figure out where the values need to change, so working this fast seems very daunting.
A revolutionary video to me, as a painter trapped in the GW layer style. I wonder how to free myself from those chains. Great work.
Glad you enjoyed it! :)
great video Vince. you mention trying to get people to feel less fear about trying these techniques but from my experience the issue was and is that spending a good amount of money on a "hero" model that we want to look good causes fear in the possibility of ruining the model. I have found that my best looking painted models are the ones that i got cheap and often didnt particularly enjoy painting. i lost the fear simply because they were cheaper/didnt care much for the model. For me the other part of dont fear the painting is trusting ones own ability and accept that the outcome may not be "great" but to learn from it. The cost of the models for me personally is a big influence on this as if the model didnt cost much i dont feel i have "wasted" much in learning and improving. keep up the great work as they are fantastic.
Totally understandable, and I get it, but here is my response to all that (I talk about this in the Paint Bravely video) - What is the worst case outcome? Absolute darkest timeline where we all have goatees? The paint job is terrible and cannot be redeemed. Okay, strip it and try again.You aren't permanently changing the figure, it's still the figure. We aren't doing anything permanent here. :)
The reality is though, the need to strip should be near non-existent. You try something and you fail? Okay, keep painting. I fail all the time, I try things and they don't work. I just paint over it and keep going. :)
@@VinceVenturella very true , but when it comes to stripping minis there is again the fear that it will damage the figure as there is a lot of 'information' about stripping the paint off minis and everyone has certain sure fire methods, and that also leads to the fear of ruining the mini. I havent seen a video by you with regards to how you strip minis (not that you need to as your painting is and confidence is at a fantastic level) and i think that may help allay peoples fears.
Hey man, thank you for providing this resource to use humble wargamers. You are a fantastic artist, and for you to make these and put on CZcams is really amazing
Thank you, that is deeply appreciated.
This is excellent and fired me up. Cant wait to work on this method, thanks for sharing
Excellent, always happy to help.
If there is a limit to how much one person can blow your mind, Vince exceeds it without fear or hesitation, thank you Vince!
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
This is a superb example of painting, "on the miniature" very inspirational stuff, thanks!
Thank you sir, happy to help as always.
@Craig X dick much?
Hey :) I’m a recent subscriber, I love your videos. This one in particular really spoke to me; I’m back into painting minis after about 15 years away from the hobby, but I have spend a lot of time with traditional 2d art, and this type of technique is right up my alley. You paint beautifully and your teaching style is superb; can’t wait to experiment with this style. Thank you!
Welcome aboard! Very happy to help. :)
Wow very impressive and most useful "beginner" tutorial I've watched in a while! Sometimes it pays off to re-learn basics in a different way and this is all this video is about, thanks for the great tip!
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
Great video and such an invogorating approach. Will definitely try to implement this more into my own painting
Glad it was helpful!
Vince! This video is extremely liberating. Thanks for showing that I don't need to always be fussing about every little thing. I may give this a whirl with some black armor.
Awesome!
I was hoping you'd get around to this eventually. I own an airbrush but since moving into an apartment that has walls thinner than tissue paper using it hasn't been an option, so having a method like this helps a lot!
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
the most amazing thing about your video is that it actually works when you try it home :)
I have been binge watching your quick tips and I can't thank you enough for your review of daler & rowney inks
It ended a 25 years battle with white color
That's awesome, I am glad it's helpful and always happy to assist. :)
The so-called 'base' painting you accomplish here, to me seems startlingly close to a fully layered paint scheme. A most impressive display!
That's the idea. :) - Why do it one layer at a time when you can do it all at once. :)
As someone who is coming in from pumpkin carving/sculpting I can absolutely relate to this style of painting.
Sounds weird, but with pumpkin sculpting you get all of the different shades by shaving down at different depths. If you make a mistake, go too deep, you can't really correct it. The best option is to roll with it and keep moving, blending that mistake into your piece.
Your wet blending style definitely caters to this ideaology, and the results are great.
That's awesome! I have no idea about that world, so this is awesome to learn.
Great technique it conveys a lot to us experienced painters and new people.
Thank you, happy to help as always.
You are the master of the model..... outstanding attitude
Absolutely, you just have to yell it out loud while painting. Reinforce it. ;)
@@VinceVenturella i yell out loud when I am painting anyway! Lol
Will have to try this....BTW this is one of our most Bob Rossian video "You are the master of the model!" "There is no pity in this dojo"....Loved it!
Thank you, this is one of my favorite ways to paint for sure. It's just so relaxing.
I began using Zenithal as a guideline for my dark/light colors and only smooth the transitions. I only use shade paints for undersides and absolute shadows anymore. This seems like a more advanced methodology of mine. I'll try it out! cheers for your vids man.
Thank you and happy to help as always. :)
Great tutorial! I use oils a lot and this is pretty much how I put down my initial layers!
Awesome, yes, this is much closer to how traditional artists, especially 2-D oil artists would/do often work.Glad to hear I am in good company here with this technique with yourself. :)
That was awesome. I’m a beginner painter and putting down the base layers is really hard as I mess it up and get paint on areas where it shouldn’t be. I will definitely be trying this. I did laugh when you said “I’m going a bit slower”. I don’t know how it would be possible to go any faster.
Well, when you do this enough, you get quite fast. :)
That was magic! You're a WIZARD Vince...
I await my owl any day now. ;)
Outstanding tutorial,you are great.many thanks
Glad you liked it! :)
"Stop painting everything 4 times". I learned to wetblend on one of your vids some time ago. Great effect and fast. Through some force of habit I keep going back to basecoating and thin layers. Then a fig takes forever, and I get frustrated, AND it doesn't look as good as the wetblended fig.
I know this is probably a repeat topic for you, but thanks for posting. Great reminder to 'paint without fear' and learn from the screwups.
Yeah, I have tried to attack this from multiple angles to give people different ideas of how to integrate this into their own process. :)
This kind of epitomizes why I prefer the base shade highlight method: it's consistent and fairly objective. Your method looks great, probably better than anything I'll ever do, but it's very subjective and arbitrary. As a painter (and as a person in general) I thrive on reliable, mechanistic methods. For instance I have a recipe for my Custodes I really like. It's like a mathematical function that I can feed whatever I want into and be confident I'll like the result. This sort of method causes me to suffer a short circuit.
Great video, I really enjoyed it. I just tried this on a cloak, and to be honest, I screwed it up pretty bad haha. Some parts I wanted to be lighter stayed dark and some dark areas became much lighter than I intended. I'm a relatively new painter, so this is nothing new for me. I really like the concept of this style of painting though, and I will be able to do it well one day :)
Awesome, that is the right attitude. Messing something up is the first step to being good at something. Glad it was helpful. Remember to keep your paint thick and spread it on the model, work quick and paint bravely. :)
This looks much more fun than the old prime with airbrush, base coat with airbrush, apply the wash, tidy up after wash and then edge highlights and details which is the typical procedure with space marines painting. In fact it would be great to see someone do this style of painting on a space marine; if Bruce Lee did miniatures painting this is exactly the style of painting he would employ.
Exactly, this is such a fun process, you just get to slap paint around.:)
started not so long ago painting like this after watching a similar video with sam lenz and holy balls this was a game changer for me
Awesome, yes, Sam is also a big proponent of this technique for sure. :)
You are the Bob Ross of minipainting, Vince!
Bob Ross has nothing on Vince and his mastery of big massive buttcloths, it’s insane
That is a very high compliment, not deserved, but appreciated all the same.
"Here, in the studio, in competitions, if a paint job can master you, then it is the enemy. An enemy deserves no mercy. FINISH IT!"
Sweep the leg.
Thanks for this great video, this is exactly what I'm trying to learn and this helps a lot.
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
I wish I had learned this sooner. It’s hard to unlearn things that have become habit
yes, but at the same time, it's never too late to try something new. ;)
This video is EXACTLY what I needed! Thanks Vince!
I have one question: I finished up a Keeper of Secrets today and the large draping cloth was very difficult to paint without leaving brushstrokes. After adding additive, the paint would run even when I only added enough for the paint to level. Any tips?
Thicker paint, more smoothing, less additives, bigger brush and use the side of it more. The more you "slice" the paint with a thin brush, the more likely you are to leave brush strokes. Hope that all helps.
This is so cool! absolutely gonna try this out with the night haunt im working on atm. would you use a similar technique for nmm?
You bet, in fact, stay tuned for next week and you may just see such a thing in practice. :)
This is awesome and just what I needed! I started the hobby when AOS first launched but have barely painted because psyched myself out too much. I finally got an airbrush and am having fun with it and have the painting bug. Helps kill every stroke has to be so perfect and right approach. Thanks for this! Also what is the color/brand of blue you used on the loin cloth part of the leg fabric?
Huldra Blue and Adriatic Blue from Scale 75, then some white and payne's grey. Glad it was helpful.:)
@@VinceVenturella Gotcha thanks!
Edit: I got off Facebook a few years ago and never looked back. Is that the only way to be a part of the PMP community? Got the painting bug now and that would be great to keep it going.
This should be in the beginners playlist
HAAAA really "their arnt any contrast paints on the market, maybe when your watching" gd man did you ever nail that one!!
ps this is the best way of painting ive ever seen, going to have to try this now
Thank you, always happy to help. :)
Wtf I love this style of painting flesh
Thank you, hope this was helpful. :)
Finally figured it out.
You sound like Hiccup from how to train your dragon
Wow, I have to go watch that again and see. I get Steve Buscemi a lot. :)
@@VinceVenturella I hear Bill Hader in my head.
I love You(-r approach)!
Well, thank you for both. :)
This is profound and I will try to see if I can find back to it: 24:00 - 24:13. Finding back to where one just paints and see what happens. Focus on the journey not the end. If every brush stroke must be perfect then one gets nowhere. Relax and enjoy the ride. I will try and take this with me.
Yep, so much of this is about finding your way as you are going. Often times the destination surprises us and that is perfectly okay. :)
The mechanics of this method are fast and easy I agree but the knowledge level is high. You must know about shadows, highlights, gradients and you must have experience in painting to know how to blend it together from a color theory standpoint. You did put black in the right spots of the skin to simulate the shadows of his muscles and lighter tones at the right positions where an above light source would reflect from. You know where the colors need to have hard edges separating them and where a smooth transition is right. How on earth would you know that if you were just starting out painting models? You either need talent, a good instructor or experience. Without any of those this method will fail a new painter horrendously.
It's a fair question, and it does require a little more knowledge. My answer would be a zenithal prime will give you a sketch and if you just follow that, you will be pretty well off. Even if they just experimented, it would all be good learning (as they are looking at models and art, there are endless examples). That being said, you are correct, it's a higher learning curve, no doubt at all. It would be tougher, but I think it would be worth it. :)
Process Seer as someone who studied art in college, you are correct sir. Someone who never has painted anything or even taken a basic drawing class would be lost in this demo. You still need to understand light and shadow, etc. just knowing how to shade in 2D with graphite would help a lot following along to this demo.
Vince Venturella Just to be clear. I agree with you on the point that if you are to teach someone painting (as in tutoring) this would be a good way to go and in the end much more interesting to learn. Unfortunately 99.9% of all miniature painters learn by themselves based on some online tutorials or video guides. While this is leaps and bounds better than what you had 20 years ago I remain sceptical about the prospect of learning this technique here all by yourself. I think chances would be high to get frustrated. With my friends I have seen more success teaching them very simple techniques that get them fast initial results to spark their interest in learning more. And if someone wants to know more I lean back and simply send them the link to your channel. 😋
Hi there, you are right. However, I never studied art, I am painting for several years according to the GW general light school of "thoughts" (base, shade, highlight, edge highlight) and I greatly enjoyed myself this way. I wanted to try to increase contrast and create atmosphere, and zenithal light or angled light it very helpful in that end. I tried to understand light, but I have to admit I am a poor observer and frankly I sucked at it. Then, as a final attempt, I tried zenithal under shading (white spray at an angle over dark primer) and it changed everything for me. Let's be honest, I still do not understand light, but I know where to highlight even through base colors. It is freeing, a bit exhilarating, quicker and fun. Let me know how it works for you. Cheers
@@tibo16ia a person could paint like norman rockwell did, photograph the sceen and paint from a b&w print. some day I want to try it, but for now i try to observe the light and paint it. I think study of photography is very helpful to painting.
Hi Vince, any follow ups planned to this video? Like next steps after the wet blend basecoat? I discovered I really love wetblending and these paints and recently picked up the entire pro acryl line. So far I've been pretty happy with what I've done so far, but am curious what your preferred method of finishing this style of model is
In general, I then just refine, so place some highlights, strengthen them and then glazing shadows. So the how to Glaze video would be a good follow-up, but I do also have a follow-up planned on smoothing out and adding with the airbrush.
Great video. Very informative. Need to ask though, it almost sounds like you are reshaping the tip with your mouth, is that correct? If so are you worried about paint residue? If not, without wetting the brush, how do you keep a sharp point?
Yes I was, I generally wipe the tip first on the paper towel or my thumb as you saw. You can roll the tip on wet paper towel if you don't want to eat paint, but I just eat some paint. :)
Vince, I enjoyed as usual.
I have some advice and I want to ask you for a favor.
First the advise: do you have any idea of the time, engineering, and money was used in the design of a beer bottle.
How comfortable it feels to hold in your hand is no accident.
I epoxy the top back on the bottle and attach models with a drop of ca glue. A blade tip pops it of when done painting.
The favor: could you please do a video on painting glowing coals and fire/flames?
Thank you!
1) That's an amazingly wonderful insight. I love everything about this.
2) I have done a video on fire, but glowing coals seems like a fun one, I will add that to the list. :)
Moin!
An awesome Video, thanks for that.
But this is an hard and difficult Video. Most off the showing techniques, i didnt learned at all. I think i will use the "traditionel way" to paint my miniatures. And in a few years, maybe, i can try this ;).
Grettings Ruberius
Glad it was interesting, I hope it gave you some food for thought and thanks for watching. :)
@@VinceVenturella
Yep, it is an inspiration and it gives me an impulse to learn more about painting and motivation for more practice :D
Ok, if there was a religious experience tied to a painting revelation, this was as close as it comes for me :) I love your ongoing series. The single biggest factor in improving my meager painting skills. Quick Q; What are you using for the wet pallet?
Redgrass wet palette. They are expensive, but worth every penny. I love it.
Thanks for the video. Will try this out but it seems quite hard. Practice makes perfect I guess :)
Is this a method you would use if you where speed painting a unit of say 12 models at the same time? Or would you just paint them one by one?
Yes, this definitely requires some time and practice. That being said, it's worth it. When I am painting several models, I do this quite often, sometimes intermingled with the airbrush to set down the base coats.
I'm an inexperienced painter (of any medium), but got out the paints to get a couple minis ready for a board game. I tend to watch too many videos and psych myself out before painting. I stumbled across this video and figured I'd give it a shot. I'm only 30 min into my mini, but I'm very pleased with the results. And it was the most fun I've had painting because it felt so much more relaxed with quicker results. Thank for a great video.
Question: Could you use this style for painting metallic/sci-fi armor? Would you change anything up for more organic or softer materials (flesh, cloth, wood, etc) versus like colder, harder materials like metal? I hope that makes sense.
You certainly could, you would want to glaze to smooth it out after, but it would otherwise work fine. :)
This tutorial boggles my mind. It's a lesson you'd give to someone starting from zero. But it involves a mix of feathering, wet blending, and other tricky techniques applied in rapid succession based on snap judgment.
I've been painting for a few months, am not great at blending, and this looks like magic to me. Is this like watching a kid carry a conversation in French? Would I be a master blender if I'd started off just pulling colors into each others without much regard for how to put them together?
Glad it was helpful! The key is really just getting the sense of the colors and placement over time. Once you have an idea of highlights and shadows, it's really just laying them in quickly. :) (And basically, yes, it's a great way to practice blending.)
This is really great, thanks for the tutorial, I have a question though and I have searched through a million comments below and not found the answer but what is this model? I'm new to wargaming.
No issue, this would be the Demon Prince Syll'Esske (specifically it's the Syll part as they are two demons in a pair-bond relationship). You can find the figure in the Slaanesh rage from Games Workshop. :)
tried it yesterday on a small model and holy fuck, this changed everything o.0
thank you so much
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
Great video as always! Do you think you could do this on a vehicle with large flat surfaces, like a tank?
You could, but you would want a really large brush to smooth everything out evenly.
Vince Venturella Cool, ill have to give it a try. Thank you very much for the response!
Thanks for the video. I try to transition from the gw method. When youbuse shades?
Rarely, but mostly as glazes instead of washes, or with bases or when I need a very specific effect with microdetail.
again vince knocks it out of the park with a fanstastic video. One question tho, is there a way to get such a good zenithal prime without an airbrush? :/ ive tried the drybrush method but its not great.
Not really, but for this method, you don't need perfect, as it's not as transparent as the Glaze method. A rattlecan can do it as well (spraying white from above). That being said, there is no real replacement for the airbrush.
Amazing work! But where did you get that devil mini?! Love the design.
It's Syll'Esske from Games Workshop.
Which paint brand do you recommend taste-wise? Love your videos!
Tough to say what is the best, but I know GW Shades are the worst. ;)
Cracking content as usual vince. Also , where did the pmp community go ?
It went to Facebook, the link is in the end of month reviews.
Hey Vince! I just wanted to let you know that of all you're videos this one has had the greatest impact on me. I would love if you could make a new video that reiterates the themes of this video.
Good call, I will think about how to update it. :)
I'm a beginner. Do you have the initial steps on how you primered it? It looks like you did a cool shadow effect before you began this video with basecoating. Great work, very impressive!
Sure, so that is zenithal highlighting, I have many videos on the subject, but you can find one here. - czcams.com/video/J-dQU-dSNa8/video.html
Hey Vince. I tried this approach - very fun! I found it tricky to make the lightest colours look smooth - "gaps" started appearing in the paint, and after I could see a sort of texture in the paint from brush strokes. Any tips? Cheers. I was mainly using F&G colours, highlight was Moonray flesh over Cokum Copper.
It can be a little tricky sometimes if you stretch the paint too thin. here is my best advice, you a bigger brush., You saw me using like a size 6-8 in this video, by using a bigger brush and rocking it to the side, you will have a better experience as you aren't "cutting" the paint so much. Other thought is use thicker paint, F&G is a little thinner than S75 normal paint, something like the Pro Acryl here or regular S75 will probably work better. Hope that helps.
Vince Venturella thanks! I was using a big brush (6 I think) but I think you might be right about the paint, I wasn’t using huge amounts and it’s pretty thin, will try using regular S75
Did I hear more sass than usual? :p
I've been sorta bumbling towards this lately. Good to have some helpful reference material as I stumble onwards.
There may have been a little sass, not intentionally mean, all good natured sass. :)
@@VinceVenturella Best kind of sass
Im very interested in such technique of painting, but is it possible to achive such effect with gw or vallejo paints? I remember that they dry kinda diffetently and afraid to pull coat of unfinished paint with new strokes of brush in attemts to achive blends.
You can, but they should be thicker. Something like the Base from GW or the Model Color from Vallejo will work fine. Thinner paints are actually a bit a challenge with this.
This one is a real eye opener...
Glad to hear and happy to help as always. :)
Hey Vince, I'm a little late to the party but as a fairly-new painter this video was basically a painting epiphany for me. What you did was basecoat a model 3x larger than any of my models in 20 minutes and it looks better with nicer contrast than any of my finished models that take me several hours. Consider my mind blown. Thank you for doing this video (and all your others).
I do have a few quick questions about the rest of your painting process though. Since your base coat basically took you 20 minutes, how much more time would you generally spend during the refining phase? This was a character model, so I imagine much longer than normal. How about if it were just tabletop quality, or just a generic guardsman etc.? Your completed basecoat already looked great to me so what are you spending most of your time refining (beyond smoothing out blends with glazes)? It's just hard for me to visualize since your completed basecoat already looks nicer than my finished models.
Thank you again. I'm watching the video again so it will really sink in.
Glad it was helpful! :) - So from here, it's just reinforcing and refining. Adding careful contrast, cleaning up if someting isn't placed right and glazes to smooth transitions. REfine, refine, refine is basically the key.
Question i have previously seen your snow tutorial.
But i wanted to know lets say you wanted to make a diorama where maybe either a caravan or a line of people where walking through deep snow the kind that´s halfway up your shin to close to your knees, in the middle of winter.
How would you create the effect of deep snow, i am especially thinking of the waves and ripples we usually see in deep snow.
And what of the trench, holes? the part of the snow where the people have already walked?
I could imagine it might be using some foam and either cut some holes in it or a squire trench and then apply the snowmixture with an old brush?
But i don´t know..
Also since we are dealing with a lot of white here would it make the diorama more interesting to maybe add some black...ish rocks or something like that is to simulate a large rock or something poking through the snow?
So a few thoughts.
1) I would build the base solid except where you need to place the feet (i.e I wouldn't try to build it all up with snow.) I would build up with cork or something everything up to the shins. Then I would place the snow and effects to simulate the layers.
2) Yes, the more you have breaking up the snow, in general, the better.
Thanks for sharing. It bears similarities with the style of Jeremie Bonament Teboul. If you have seen his DVD tutorials, what did you think if them? Keep fighting the grey, you are very inspirational.
I haven't seen them, but it makes sense if he is always drawing from more traditional 2-D art styles. I will have to look into those videos. :)
@@VinceVenturella I am biased when it comes to Jérémie BT. But I believe there is value in watching him paint. You're comment on connecting to your inner child, having fun, and not fearing a messy wet blending reminded me of his commentary. Painting as a hobby is so gripping that you might find yourself seeking perfection through recipes and methods as proxy for hours of practice. But trial and errors is so rewarding those little few time you break your walls. It is one of the many reasons I like your channel, you often try and change approaches and are kind enough to take us on your journey. It appears to be a genuine attempt to enjoy yourself and it never comes across as a lack of consistency. Thx again.
If I were to do this with Vallejo Model Color would it be adviseable to add a drop of Vallejo Model Color Dryretarder to each drop of paint? VMC dries quite fast on me but I'd rather not have to go on out and buy a new paint range as I already have a lot of VMC.
Yep, that can make things much easier for sure.
Amazing video Vince!! I believe this one is my favorite so far, keep posting more about this technique please!! i remember a dvd i saw long time ago from Jeremie Bonamant , he wetblended in a similar way than you did, did you by chance learned this technique in one of his workshops? i ask because i never learned it completely from his dvd, and your video is more detailed. Please keep posting more :)
Someone else mentioned that name, I honestly am not familiar. If you watch James Wappel, he also has a similar technique and is someone who inspired me (along with Bob Ross to be honest and just oil painting in general). I will certainly keep posting more as well as next steps after this.
@@VinceVenturella I did some mini painting with oils decades ago and I always like thick paint. You just thought me how to do it in another way. Wappel is amazing but I never his watercolour background realted to me.
Hi Vince, I've been considering Proacryl but already own scale 75 paints, is there enough difference to make it worth trying them? I live in UK and have been reluctant to ship from US.
They are different, I use them both interchangeably. I think that they have stock in the UK now, so you don't have to ship from the US.
@@VinceVenturella Ok thanks for the info I'll see if I can find their stockist.
Are vallejo model colour paints of suitable thickness to use this technique? You say it needs to be thicker than usual but I dont know what usual is. I understand its difficult to describe paint consistency, but do you have a picture of perhaps, some painted lines over a piece of paper with black text so we can see the translucency and "runny-ness" of the paint?
Thanks Vince. Eager to give this a try, probably over a wolf or a bear first.
Yep, I use this same technique with them all the time. They don't have the thickness, but the increased opacity of metal paints makes it doable.If you look back in the series a few videos, I have a TMM revisited video that uses very similar techniques.
Welp that seem intimidating. Might try it on the sigmar banshes with all that cloth.
Yep, something with a bunch of foldy cloth is really the way the go.
Hey Vince, IIRC you've mentioned in your Product Reviews earlier that you would recommend new painters to start with something like Vallejo or Army Painter over something like Warcolors or Scale 75, which are a bit more difficult to use. Did you change your opinion?
Not broadly, but I also want to provide people an alternative. My basic recommendation would be like this. If you want to follow a more traditional route (the sort of base coat, wash, layer/highlight) most of us started with, then something like Vallejo is the way to go. If you are willing to give a more unusual method a try (in the wet blending style base coats here, then I would recommend something like Pro Acryl or Scale 75.
@@VinceVenturella Hm, I got your point. Earlier I thought that the GW way is simpler, but I have trouble figuring out where to put edge highlights and how intense they should be given that the rest of the undercoat is mostly flat colored, but your way establishes contrast all across the miniature in a much more intuitive way, so I was a bit puzzled as to which line of paints I should start with.
Do these paints also work with drybrushing and artistic acrylics, by the way?
So after that you would do like, glazes to smooth out transtiitons and such?
Exactly correct.
Hey Vince! A bit of a silly question ; but is there any occasion in which you don’t zenithal prime your minis?
When they are going to be complete and total metal (like a Knight Titan skeleton).
Is the idea behind wiping the brush on the towel to make sure the paint doesn't get thin by cleaning the brush with water? How fast will this wear out your brush?
Yep, that is exactly the case and it will tear your brush up fast, hence why I use synthetic brushes for this (if you use your nice brush, just be nicer and gentle with your wiping).
How much paint did you eat during this video? ;) Great tutorial btw!
A fair amount, at this point, it's like a food group. ;)
What did you use for the deeper blue on the cloak? It seemed like an ink almost
Huldra Blue from Scale 75 and Payne's Grey. The Payne's Grey is a Daler Rowney FW ink
The more I watch these, the more I realize my next supply run will involve shopping around for better brushes.
Well, as you saw here, I was using a pretty crappy brush, it's really more about the right brush for the right job, in this case, the larger synthetic brush. But also having nicer brushes for when you need those.
If we are not licking the brush should we be cleaning it at those points?
As Leman says, another really good trick is to just keep your paper towel or wipey very wet. Then just wipe your brush on the wet paper towel. It's a great alternative to brush licking.
LMAO, this is pretty much my approach to painting whole models! Though I dont zenithil
Good, glad we are on the same page. :)
It seems like a big part of speed painting is just knowing when to say “done”.
I think that's true, and of course, you can call it "done" temporarily and then use a few glazes or the airbrush to smooth things out or push contrast.
Do you use this technique on your smaller models as well?
Yep, it's great on smaller models.
Assuming I have only painted the 'traditional' way, can you think of a good model to practice this style of painting on?
Also, what does 'pulling up' the paint mean?
Bones minis or the D&D minis where you can get multiple minis quite cheap are great practice minis. Pulling up the paint is when it stops blending because it's partially dried and when you move paint around, you start pulling the previous layer up completely instead of blending it.
@@VinceVenturella I'll hunt down a few and see what I can do, thanks!
Yes, this works nice if you are seasoned painter, and know what you are doing, but this is a nightmare for a new painter and I would never try to tell someone new to start from this.
This requires you to have a certain paints, or mess with retarders so from there alone you are making it difficult for new painters. Then the actual process requires you to understand from the get go what needs to go where. You need to know straight away where you want your shadows, and highlights, and you need to do this fast because the paint can't dry up. Then you need to have a immense trust for your abilities and paints that they blend correctly, and as it doesn't look nice from the beginning it's giving the idea that you messed up.
There are lot of things that a new painter will mess up with this technique, and unless you are standing behind them giving pointers and encourage them to go on it's probably going to end badly. That's the reason why base, wash and highlight is a good starting point that all those are easy steps to follow and execute.
I certainly agree it's a higher learning curve and would be tougher, but I submit most folks could get the basic idea, that being said, I think it would be worth the effort and some smaller pain. That being said, I agree the straightforward base, wash, highlight method is simpler and hard to mess up (I think I say as much). That being said, a technique like this teaches you so much and my hope would be people would give it a shot. But then, either way, whether they are learning now or later or wherever on their painting journey, I hope it's helpful.
You never learn if you never try. If you need more guidance I recommend watching more of Vince's videos. He goes it to great detail and explains everything, also I like to practice the technique while watching. I will rewind, paint, pause and rewind again while learning. Vince has shown me a better way of painting and my skills keep on progressing!
@@davidmanz8886 I never said anything about myself. I was just commenting about what Vince said about how this should be the way painting is tought to new painters.
I personally very rarely wash my minis anymore because it just creates extra work to fix the wash.
Nice video- oh and hey, did not realise this dude is sooo large, looks like well over twice a regular human sized mini....
yep, he's a demon prince, he's quite big and a wonderful figure.
@@VinceVenturella Might have to get it. Not 100% sold on the dominatrix he carries on his back, but I assume you might convert a regular demon prince out of it. Oh, and, as always: lovely video. Have you done one on oil washes? And, do you use them?