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Let's settle this... The Kneepad Debate ft. Chris Sharma
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- čas přidán 6. 07. 2022
- If you do want to try out a kneepad GET IT on the EpicTV Shop - bit.ly/3RarBNT
To watch the full episode click here - bit.ly/3bKNB1q
I wonder if Charles Albert feels the same way about climbing shoes...
Right? Oh you climbed el cap? Nice! You did it barefoot using hemp rope and homemade knot pro right?
Oh? Well I mean I guess you didn’t REALLY climb it then.
@@jjbassing9044 Jokes aside, I honestly can't think of an argument against the use of kneebar pads that couldn't also apply to climbing shoes.
Don’t forget about crack gloves…..
@WungusBill Problem is that that argument is entirely subjective. "Lame" is just so meaningless. You're not "skipping harder moves", you're finding a better beta. It's not like it's impossible to kneebar without pads. Pads just make it less painful and easier to use the full force of your calf muscles. In _exactly_ the same way that climbing shoes let you use the full power of your toes on otherwise unuseably small footholds.
For me, I _love_ finding kneebars and no-handers. It's all part of the game, just as much as using shoes to stand on stuff you can't stand on without them.
@WungusBill Yeah, fair enough.
if you wanna climb with knee pads, do it. do whatever the hell you want. why does it mater what other people say?
Cuz if you tell other people about climbing these routes then you obviously do care what they say at least a little
It's important if you climb one of the hardest routes in the world and using a kneepad makes it easier. Then you should mention it.
Probably most people don't care if you and I are using kneepads 😅
As long as it’s not aid climbing don’t worry about it
I feel like I’d need to my tendons hurt so bad if anything hard presses against them
If one shouldn't climb with kneepads shouldn't we also climb without climbing shoes.. ?
Also, doesn't it make a difference between climbing with long pants and short towards kneebars.. ?
If the route was put up without shoes and that's the way intended just say "i completed it but with shoes" it doesn't invalidate anything but not mentioning it takes away from those who have completed it as intended
Some people like to climb with ladders…some with a nice girl… some alone… some without chalk… some without hands… its a Great Sport for your one
I think it was Ben Moon on the Nugget mentioning a couple of old / classic routes being downgraded because they have been repeated with a kneepad on, but put up without. Not sure how he felt about it.
I mean it gives a massive advantage on certain routes so yea it should be mentioned. If it didn't help a lot no one would use them
Bingo.
"back in my day we didn't even use rope" but in all seriousness, Chris clearly doesn't have that strong of an opinion on the subject, just seems like that's his personal preference. I get what he's saying about the "if you used kneepads you should mention that", that's fair enough, but it's not like people hide that they use kneepads. And technically you can do a kneebar without a kneepad, it's just going to be extremely painful. Similar situation with taping hands or wearing crack gloves, it's only really aid insofar as it makes the moves less painful.
Are taking painkillers aid?
“You can do it without a knee pad, it’s just gonna be painful” climbing knee pads are rubber on the outside so they actually increase traction, it’s like wearing shoes on your knees. Personally I think aid climbing is great so I don’t care but it definitely gives more advantages than just a normal knee pad designed to prevent injury
@@ohokcool Kneepads DO provide an advantage, I agree. However, the trouble is that climbing has seen so many advancements in the technology used by its climbers that it would be futile to prevent climbers from using that new technology. I'm primarily referring to shoes of course, if a climb was sent with a pair of old shoes from the 1950s vs a pair of modern state of the art shoes then that distinction should be made between the two sends: the modern shoe clearly gave an advantage, but that doesn't mean it's aid. If one person sends with a kneepad and one without, then that's just something you should consider when comparing the two sends, rather than condemning the kneepad user and discrediting their climb.
You could take the aid argument as far as you like all the way to "wearing shoes and clothes and using chalk is aid", but that's not productive to the climbing scene in any way, it's just stubbornness.
idk why it’s a debate, my knees are mangled and the slightest bump in the wrong spot can put me out of commission, so yeah knee pads for me, but if you can take a bump to the knee go ahead climb without them. i much prefer climbing without them but if i’m going to be on a wall for a prolonged period they’re nice to have
Fighting words… we need drama in climbing… 😂😂😂😂😂
There’s absolutely nothing controversial about what he said. He doesnt like to use them, if you use them you should say you did.
I know there are times knee bars hurt and I wish I had them. Knee bars are fun! They give you a sense of exposure and disconnecting from the rock, but you feel totally in control. Like soloing. That feeling of freedom and flow without a partner and gear.
I think what Chris said is super fair, to each their own, but if a route was graded and sent by someone without wearing knnepads, it should be mentioned because there is a good chance it changes the original intended grade and vision of the route.
Yeah I don't understand what's so difficult to understand in Chris' words. People commenting "weeell what about climbing shoes uuh??" sound braindead
Kneepads is cheating and so is climbing without a shirt and so is free solo.
Aid
Breathing is aid
In the future kids who climb barefoot 8a will say the same about climbing shoes
I use kneebars really frequntly, long pants do the trick for me, thick cotton is perfect, especially in sandstone. I couldnt even fit half the knees with pads ontop. But i also climb cracks without gloves, maybe pain is just my kink.
I prefer not having bruises. I like kneepads.
They’re talking about rubber knee pads that increase traction between your knee and the wall in knee bars, no one is against protective equipment 😊
I didn't know kneepads existed - i guess if you wear them in my local gym they just throw you out.
Some people like to climb with ladders…some with a nice girl… some alone… some without chalk… some without hands… its a Great Sport for your one
You that use knee pads, just shouldn’t, climbing is with your arms. You don’t climb with your feet then use elbow pads to lock in to ‘rest’
I just don’t think they provide that much recovery anyway after 15 years of being on the rock
The issue is the same as with many other sports. How much assistive technology is acceptable, before it diminishes the integrity of the sport?
Attn: Dave graham. Shots fired.
Everyone just missing his point to fall back on the age old trick of taking the “what is aid?” Question to its logical limits.
Aaaaah the old fear of progress/new things
Jailhouse whoop cali!
I really hate Sharma after his statements making fun of someone for bailing
He didn't make fun of him, he was encouraging him to send it
@@lurkwave no he wasn’t, he even encouraged the other participants to harass him
On an unprotected climb in the rain too
@@cornball1111 you are reminding me of “walk of life” trad route
Magnus said also same, he doesn't like the feeling
Debate? Who lives in a world where knee pads rise to the level of an issue that is debated?
Just fucking climb my dudes lmao
Two of the best climbers in the world use knee pads, I think that says enough
No knee pads for me plz
Nope it’s a bummer that knee pads/knee bars have basically broken up climbs, as in made them easier
Yep, same thing for chalk and climbing shoes
@WungusBill everyone has their own feelings i guess
@@raf99bub Im guessing you're a knee pad user lol
I’m just trying to imagine how knee pads could possibly help in climbing. Could anyone enlighten me? I could see for like multiple pitches and sensitive knees it being a comfort thing, but like how could it make a climb easier?
The classic kneepad book. Your knees are too slightly too short to get a good kneebar in and potentially a good rest. So you pad your kneepad with a book. Suddenly you fit perfectly
It’s like shoes for your knees, not the same as the kind skaters use
Let it known... kneepads are for the weak
💪
Are pants aid?
Bouldering is the equivalent to rollerblading lol. Fruit booters!!!
@@crimpingenthusiast don’t tell me he rollerblades too!
Says the guy who literally drilled holes because he admitted to himself he wasnt a good enough climber to ascend what he had found 💀
@@bk341 maybe it's just me but drilling holds is not ok. What if when v10 was the hardest grade people drilled stuff into all the v15s today because they were "impossible"? There wouldn't be any v15s.
This guy is one of the strongest climbers in history, what are you talking about
@@amaturearcadia I know that. I respect him as a good climber (very good), but drilling holds is not ok imo. And he has done that many times in the past, but that's the only thing that I disagree with him about. And the "admitting he wasnt a good enough climber to do it" means basically that he should've just tried what he found, not modified it so he could do it.
@@vancestanfield chris sharmas words, "I do take a stand against drilling a route down to your ability level. If the route has holds, leave it alone. I have never chipped a hold in my life, and probably never will. Also, I have way more respect for the route developers who’ve established hundreds of routes with a few chipped holds here and there than the people who sit in their office and try to defame these [developers] in their little online forums.”
@@brianblackmore1759 my friend read a magazine that said Sharma drilled holds. If he genuinely doesn't then I have nothing against him. Hes an awesome climber, but I dont stand for anyone that intentionally changes routes because they're too weak.
what a shit take. this route was done when the sun wasn't up so therefore u haven't finished it if the sun is up like what is happening
@@Jay151 Lol, as if there is just one "right way" to enjoy climbing as a sport. Don't need to shit on others having fun lol.
@@Erulilum you didn’t understand the point in the video and the person who responded to you. they talk about degrading climbing. climbing is about ascending. for example, you don’t normally get to climb top rope until you lead the route. have fun all you want, but be honest about what you’re doing, call it what it is.
@@Jay151 Elitism and gatekeeping has never made a sport better.
Finding a better beta is cooler than doing it like a caveman