Hi Rek, I only do things that need doing on my car. The youtube videos are just an additional thing, perhaps to help other people, but there will always be stuff that I need to do on my car. Fortunately, the alternator/starter motor on my car are alright. If something happens I will do a video on them.
1. There are about 6 liters of antifreeze in the system, you drained and then added about 3 liters, so this is not a replacement since there are still 3 liters of old antifreeze left in the system. 2. The temperature regulator does not block the heater circuit; there is always hot antifreeze in the heater radiator, regardless of the position of the regulator. 3. If you previously flushed the heating system with water, then after flushing approximately 3 liters of antifreeze very strongly diluted with water remain in the system, then you fill in another 3 liters of antifreeze and this is not correct since the boiling point of the antifreeze is disturbed due to water. After flushing with water it is required pour 3 liters of antifreeze concentrate. 1. В системе примерно 6 литров антифриза , вы слили и затем залили примерно 3 литра , так что это не замена так как в системе осталось еще 3 литра старого антифриза. 2. Регулятор температуры не перекрывает контур отопителя , горячий антифриз в радиаторе отопителя есть всегда независимо от положения ругулятора. 3. Если ранее вы промывали систему отопления водой то после промывания в системе остается примерно 3 литра очень сильно разбавленного водой антифриза , далее вы заливаете еще 3 литра антифриза и это не правильно так как температура кипения антифриза нарушается из-за воды .После промывки водой требуется залить 3 литра концентрата антифриза.
What is this rubbish, sorry, but I only read a few of these lines, maybe badly translated from google. Nevertheless, what do you mean strongly diluted. Maybe strongly diluted for your country, but not for mine. Also, how do you know I poured only 3 litres. For your country, whatever that is, you may need stronger concentration, for mine is absolutely fine. Where did I say this is for everyone.
It is very helpful, very well explained! could you please explain the Crankshaft/Camshaft sensor replacement on this TU5JP4 engine? I have an issue with P0341 (Camshaft sensor position code) but I can't locate the sensor. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
As far as I know, there is no Camshaft sensor on the TU5JP4 engine, so it is a bit of a misnomer error. The position comes from the spark plug coils. It is either some sort of cable issue somewhere there or the coils are somewhat going.
В этом двиготеле 6.5л антифриза,сколько ты залил?Чтобы слить весь антифриз,нужно сзади с блока ещё один шланг снять.Таким образом сливается 6л жидкости,в системе остаётся 0.5л.
Yes, absolutely correct. There will be 0.5L left of old antifreeze. The thing at the back of the engine is really difficult to seal back alright, so I did not do it. 0.5L of old coolant is not that much of a problem when it gets diluted 10 times.
Thank you. I used already diluted (50:50) antifreeze, but if you are using concentrated then yes 50% antifreeze and 50% distilled water. Total capacity 6.2L, but there will always be some left, so 5L is more than enough to replace it.
I did all you did .... Water keep go up and down in funnel fan start working and when open thermostat vent alot of hot air out .... Alot like I did it 15 times and alot of hot air out if keep going will go alot of air but I did it more than 30min ..... I close all vents and water bottle cap ... and drive car But my temperature keep fluctuate up down from 80 90 ...and reach 95 and then back to 80 alot of times like up down up down every 1min up down .... It's normal or what ......
Not too sure if I replied already to your comment, apologies if I have not. Do the bleeding (bottom valve, top valve) on a cold engine several times. Run it again and then bleed again. If it does not work, use a header tank and keep it running until you see no bubbles. Hope this helps.
Overheating if not worse, very hot spots at different places of the engine, depending on where the air bubble is at. How would you know, overheating. Difficult if one has not watched the temperature dial on the instrument cluster for quite a few years. Basically it is a gut feeling, one knows where the normal temperature of an engine is at, so if you start to deviate substantially, especially after a coolant change you know there might be an air bubble or say the thermostat is somewhat defective.
I need help if you please I flush coolant and i followed your steps I opened 1st and 2nd vents and after drop water i close them I did all and i start engine and when temp reach 90 while cap open alot of water goes out ... and temp down then i fill more and second time did it again ... fan working normal and radiator and upper hose still cold until last time i fill water and close cap temp reach 90 fan work and thermostat open and mix water from engine and radiator.... its work normally but why when cap was open water goes out and radiator cold ... Hope you could help me
What do you mean by running the engine and opening cap? When the engine is running all the caps have to be closed. The coolant becomes pressurised and of course collant will come out. Run it for longer and see if the top radiator hose i cold. If it is cold you might have to use a header tank, see here: czcams.com/video/CSmm2SCpPCs/video.html If you do not want to use a header tank, I would do the bleeding from the screw caps multiple times. Drive it, then leave it to cool and then undo them, close them, drive again an so on, you would clear the air. Much easier with a header tank though.
Well done, good presentation! Some antifreeze replacement manuals use vacuum pumps for deaeration. I don't know what it says about Peugeot. Do you have any idea? You can get an air pocket, there is a way to check this :). There is also some mismatch about the specified antifreeze, supposedly G30, in the technical specifications it says G40, and for the OEM Part Number G12 +.
Hi Kalin, Thank you for the good words. IMHO, the best thing is probably in addition to the two bleeding points, is to leave the coolant cap open and run the car until the fan has kicked in or no more air bubbles are coming out. Once the coolant comes to operating temperature, the air bubbles will expand and move around (forced by the coolant flow) and eventually coming to the breather pipe in the coolant reservoir and if the cap is opened they will go in the air. The other option (depending on the level of the heater matrix) is to use a header tank and again run the car until the fan has kicked in (the thermostat opening). Something like this: czcams.com/video/CSmm2SCpPCs/video.html. Depending on the design of the engine, there could be an air pocket, but this will be difficult to get rid of. I really spend a lot of time researching these different coolant/antifreeze specifications. IMHO, all are nearly the same, the only difference being how long they last, e.g. 5 years, 1 year and some different additives for rust.
Which vacuum pipe? Maybe I have forgotten, but there was no need to remove a vacuum pipe. Even if I do not remember from my own video (hahaha), it is not a problem not to remove a vacuum pipe.
@@moremolecules u removed a pipe beside the second bleed screw in at the back of the engine u called it a vacuum hose. I didn't remove it and everything was fine thank you.
@@martymartin2894Yes, apologies, the pipe was in the way o I removed it to bleed the valve. If you can do it without removing it, it is even better, well done 👍
Hey, Just wanted to ask since you put the heat on max but my peugeot has buttons instead. Do i still have to do it and should i be on ignition (it doesn't appear otherwise)
Hi Ivailo, IMHO if you do not have any dial-type thing, then it would not matter that much. Basically, remove air from the bleeding points as much as it can be done, then drive it around and make sure heating is coming on. You could then do another go with the bleeding points only, it would not hurt at all and if there was any trapped air it will go out from the bleeding points.
@@moremolecules well another issue.. Cap of the 1st bleeding points seems to be sealed off and i can't unscrew it.Can i do the procedure using only the 2nd bleed point?
@@ivailoyordanov1159 It should not be sealed off, is this the NFU engine? You could do it with only the upper point, but a bit risky. How is it sealed off?
@@moremolecules it has a hex key screw instead of s cap and it had some rubber silicone around it .Well i removed the silicon but couldn't unscrew the bolt .might try s hexagram see if that works . Yes thats the NFU one
Hi. I have P308 vti. 1) I have first bleeding valve turned up, it is not turned right side like yours. Do I can do the same? But there is nothing to put under to catch liquid because valve it look UP. 2) I not have manual heater, I have auto dual zone climate sistem. Is enought to only start key contact or must run engine, then shutt it of before bleeding? Thanks.
Hi Joe, I am not familiar with the 308vti, but the principle is the same. If the bleeding valve looks like a tyre valve then even if it is up just put a some sort of vessel underneath to catch the liquid. If it is automatic, yes leave it open if you can.
fucking ell they dont make it easy any more do they. on my old 86 fiesta the bleed cap was on the thermostat housing next to the radiator so easy this is so much more complicated than it needs to be all they had to do was have one on the radiator it self. sheesh
I cannot even start to express how stupid this design is. I was going crazy to look for these valves. I had other cars that I didn't need to unscrew half of the engine to remove the air from the cooling system.
@@moremolecules Just plug some tubes and surface them, keep them high for reach without disassembling all the plastiky stuff, which will brake after many flexing, and to make the air surface too.
2 years later, you're still helping people. Thank you 🙏
3 years
I have this engine in my berlingo, your vids are such a help thanks vvv much
Detailed & easy to follow. Appreciate it 👌
Le escribo desde Venezuela muchas gracias por su conocimiento me ahorro 100 dolares 😂
Thanks. Super detailed. Very useful
You are very thorough. Very good!
So happy with this helpful video!! Thank you
Good and clear vid. Thanks so much for posting ....
Very good video. Could you do a alternator and a starter motor replacement guide for 1.6 hdi in the future?
Hi Rek, I only do things that need doing on my car. The youtube videos are just an additional thing, perhaps to help other people, but there will always be stuff that I need to do on my car. Fortunately, the alternator/starter motor on my car are alright. If something happens I will do a video on them.
Thank u very much. Very very nice video. I learn a lot. Thank u for english text. You are beautiful.
Thank you.
great video thx for sharing youre experience
Thanks for the video!
When you did the first flash, did you used a flash cleaner or just distilled water?
I used just distilled water. I did it several times and at the last time the water was quite clean.
1. There are about 6 liters of antifreeze in the system, you drained and then added about 3 liters, so this is not a replacement since there are still 3 liters of old antifreeze left in the system.
2. The temperature regulator does not block the heater circuit; there is always hot antifreeze in the heater radiator, regardless of the position of the regulator.
3. If you previously flushed the heating system with water, then after flushing approximately 3 liters of antifreeze very strongly diluted with water remain in the system, then you fill in another 3 liters of antifreeze and this is not correct since the boiling point of the antifreeze is disturbed due to water. After flushing with water it is required pour 3 liters of antifreeze concentrate.
1. В системе примерно 6 литров антифриза , вы слили и затем залили примерно 3 литра , так что это не замена так как в системе осталось еще 3 литра старого антифриза.
2. Регулятор температуры не перекрывает контур отопителя , горячий антифриз в радиаторе отопителя есть всегда независимо от положения ругулятора.
3. Если ранее вы промывали систему отопления водой то после промывания в системе остается примерно 3 литра очень сильно разбавленного водой антифриза , далее вы заливаете еще 3 литра антифриза и это не правильно так как температура кипения антифриза нарушается из-за воды .После промывки водой требуется залить 3 литра концентрата антифриза.
What is this rubbish, sorry, but I only read a few of these lines, maybe badly translated from google. Nevertheless, what do you mean strongly diluted. Maybe strongly diluted for your country, but not for mine.
Also, how do you know I poured only 3 litres. For your country, whatever that is, you may need stronger concentration, for mine is absolutely fine. Where did I say this is for everyone.
It is very helpful, very well explained! could you please explain the Crankshaft/Camshaft sensor replacement on this TU5JP4 engine? I have an issue with P0341 (Camshaft sensor position code) but I can't locate the sensor. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
As far as I know, there is no Camshaft sensor on the TU5JP4 engine, so it is a bit of a misnomer error. The position comes from the spark plug coils. It is either some sort of cable issue somewhere there or the coils are somewhat going.
В этом двиготеле 6.5л антифриза,сколько ты залил?Чтобы слить весь антифриз,нужно сзади с блока ещё один шланг снять.Таким образом сливается 6л жидкости,в системе остаётся 0.5л.
Yes, absolutely correct. There will be 0.5L left of old antifreeze. The thing at the back of the engine is really difficult to seal back alright, so I did not do it. 0.5L of old coolant is not that much of a problem when it gets diluted 10 times.
Good work.
Thanks for your information and guidance.
DIY.
Tanks
dude, thanks for sharing, could you please share what is the correct pressure of the coolant cap? its 1.0bar or 1.4bar?
To be honest I do not know the pressire under the coolant cap, but I suspect it will be probably higher than the 1.4bars.
@@moremolecules I checked some datasheets from the cap factories and for TU5JP4 is 1.4 bar
Hello man great video i wana know how much freezing coolant is needed for a change is like 3L antifreze liquid + 3 water ?
Thank you. I used already diluted (50:50) antifreeze, but if you are using concentrated then yes 50% antifreeze and 50% distilled water. Total capacity 6.2L, but there will always be some left, so 5L is more than enough to replace it.
@@moremolecules thank you!
Hi do you dailute it with water or u put it just like that
Not to forget to say thank you for all your efforts we really appreciate it ❤❤❤
hello good morning to purge the car it must be with the engine on or off
Good morning to you too. It must be with the engine off and to be off for a bit of time. I did it overnight to be on the safe side of things.
I did all you did .... Water keep go up and down in funnel fan start working and when open thermostat vent alot of hot air out .... Alot like I did it 15 times and alot of hot air out if keep going will go alot of air but I did it more than 30min ..... I close all vents and water bottle cap ... and drive car But my temperature keep fluctuate up down from 80 90 ...and reach 95 and then back to 80 alot of times like up down up down every 1min up down .... It's normal or what ......
Not too sure if I replied already to your comment, apologies if I have not. Do the bleeding (bottom valve, top valve) on a cold engine several times. Run it again and then bleed again. If it does not work, use a header tank and keep it running until you see no bubbles. Hope this helps.
What would happen if air is still trapped and how would I know thanks.
Overheating if not worse, very hot spots at different places of the engine, depending on where the air bubble is at. How would you know, overheating. Difficult if one has not watched the temperature dial on the instrument cluster for quite a few years. Basically it is a gut feeling, one knows where the normal temperature of an engine is at, so if you start to deviate substantially, especially after a coolant change you know there might be an air bubble or say the thermostat is somewhat defective.
@@moremolecules I got the job done and everything is working perfect thanks for your video and reply 👍👍
I need help if you please
I flush coolant and i followed your steps
I opened 1st and 2nd vents and after drop water i close them
I did all and i start engine and when temp reach 90 while cap open alot of water goes out ... and temp down then i fill more and second time did it again ... fan working normal and radiator and upper hose still cold until last time i fill water and close cap temp reach 90 fan work and thermostat open and mix water from engine and radiator.... its work normally but why when cap was open water goes out and radiator cold ...
Hope you could help me
What do you mean by running the engine and opening cap? When the engine is running all the caps have to be closed. The coolant becomes pressurised and of course collant will come out.
Run it for longer and see if the top radiator hose i cold. If it is cold you might have to use a header tank, see here: czcams.com/video/CSmm2SCpPCs/video.html
If you do not want to use a header tank, I would do the bleeding from the screw caps multiple times. Drive it, then leave it to cool and then undo them, close them, drive again an so on, you would clear the air. Much easier with a header tank though.
Well done, good presentation! Some antifreeze replacement manuals use vacuum pumps for deaeration. I don't know what it says about Peugeot. Do you have any idea? You can get an air pocket, there is a way to check this :). There is also some mismatch about the specified antifreeze, supposedly G30, in the technical specifications it says G40, and for the OEM Part Number G12 +.
Hi Kalin, Thank you for the good words. IMHO, the best thing is probably in addition to the two bleeding points, is to leave the coolant cap open and run the car until the fan has kicked in or no more air bubbles are coming out. Once the coolant comes to operating temperature, the air bubbles will expand and move around (forced by the coolant flow) and eventually coming to the breather pipe in the coolant reservoir and if the cap is opened they will go in the air. The other option (depending on the level of the heater matrix) is to use a header tank and again run the car until the fan has kicked in (the thermostat opening). Something like this: czcams.com/video/CSmm2SCpPCs/video.html. Depending on the design of the engine, there could be an air pocket, but this will be difficult to get rid of.
I really spend a lot of time researching these different coolant/antifreeze specifications. IMHO, all are nearly the same, the only difference being how long they last, e.g. 5 years, 1 year and some different additives for rust.
@@moremoleculeswhat would happen if air wasn't properly removed like how would it affect and how would you know.
Is it important to remove the vacuum pipe.
Which vacuum pipe? Maybe I have forgotten, but there was no need to remove a vacuum pipe. Even if I do not remember from my own video (hahaha), it is not a problem not to remove a vacuum pipe.
@@moremolecules u removed a pipe beside the second bleed screw in at the back of the engine u called it a vacuum hose. I didn't remove it and everything was fine thank you.
@@martymartin2894Yes, apologies, the pipe was in the way o I removed it to bleed the valve. If you can do it without removing it, it is even better, well done 👍
@@moremolecules no bother thanks for the very helpful videos I just subbed I forgot to before.
Hey,
Just wanted to ask since you put the heat on max but my peugeot has buttons instead.
Do i still have to do it and should i be on ignition (it doesn't appear otherwise)
Hi Ivailo, IMHO if you do not have any dial-type thing, then it would not matter that much. Basically, remove air from the bleeding points as much as it can be done, then drive it around and make sure heating is coming on. You could then do another go with the bleeding points only, it would not hurt at all and if there was any trapped air it will go out from the bleeding points.
@@moremolecules thanks bud!
@@moremolecules well another issue..
Cap of the 1st bleeding points seems to be sealed off and i can't unscrew it.Can i do the procedure using only the 2nd bleed point?
@@ivailoyordanov1159 It should not be sealed off, is this the NFU engine? You could do it with only the upper point, but a bit risky. How is it sealed off?
@@moremolecules it has a hex key screw instead of s cap and it had some rubber silicone around it .Well i removed the silicon but couldn't unscrew the bolt .might try s hexagram see if that works . Yes thats the NFU one
Hi. I have P308 vti.
1) I have first bleeding valve turned up, it is not turned right side like yours. Do I can do the same? But there is nothing to put under to catch liquid because valve it look UP.
2) I not have manual heater, I have auto dual zone climate sistem. Is enought to only start key contact or must run engine, then shutt it of before bleeding?
Thanks.
Hi Joe, I am not familiar with the 308vti, but the principle is the same. If the bleeding valve looks like a tyre valve then even if it is up just put a some sort of vessel underneath to catch the liquid.
If it is automatic, yes leave it open if you can.
fucking ell they dont make it easy any more do they. on my old 86 fiesta the bleed cap was on the thermostat housing next to the radiator so easy this is so much more complicated than it needs to be all they had to do was have one on the radiator it self. sheesh
Yeah, they do not make it easy. I suspect htat is on purpose. All are like that
0
I cannot even start to express how stupid this design is. I was going crazy to look for these valves. I had other cars that I didn't need to unscrew half of the engine to remove the air from the cooling system.
Yeah, what can you do...
@@moremolecules Just plug some tubes and surface them, keep them high for reach without disassembling all the plastiky stuff, which will brake after many flexing, and to make the air surface too.
Thank you.