Compact Vs. Standard Cranksets: Which is really best?
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- čas přidán 16. 05. 2024
- Which is best: A compact crankset or a standard crankset? Or is it the new semi-compact crankset? This video dives into the differences of a compact and standard crankset and tells you how they will each affect you as a cyclist. Both have advantages and disadvantages, and for many cyclists it can be confusing to navigate all the different opinions out there.
In this video I give my opinion on which is best, and tell you why I believe this. - Krátké a kreslené filmy
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As a novice I found this to be super informative. Thank you.
Best explanation ive ever heard, cheers man
the most beneficial comprehensive video on compact vs. standard. thanks very much!
Good, honest assessment of the pros and cons of riding a compact. Honestly, if you're not a pro, if you don't race or if you ride in hilly terrain, most of you will be better off with a compact crank paired with a wide range cassette.
Thank you!!! I was just having this discussion today as I wasn't sure what my best option was for me. That said, I was told a compact and your video give it even a more in depth explanation as to why.
Great video. Carefully, thoughtfully and thoroughly explained your rationale. I have a full suspension lefty with a compact. Thought about switching my crank but decided against it for the very reasons you described.
I found that with compact crankset that came on my bike I was often in the top gear at the rear, so I changed to a standard. I only use the top gears now going down hill (long shallow hill) or when drafting motorized vehicles but I like it that they are there.
Perfect explanation. I have been riding road bikes for 25 years and at the beginning it was all 53/39 & probably 11/ 20? at the rear. You could never ever spin that gearing out. By spinning out I mean going over 115/120 rpm in 53/11. I ride a compact with a 11/28 rear and sometimes a 11/32 for steep long long climbs. I can hold 105rpm in a 50/11 going slightly downhill 2% with a tail wind 10mph for like 45 seconds before my heart rate is maxed out. 53/39 is for the Pro's, everyone else compact is the only way. I have seen a 34 front and a 34 rear on Contadors bike in the big mountains. Cavendish with a standard crank in a full sprint at 120rpm 65kmph, you are not spinning out your standard crank. Go compact and let it go.
James Butler finally. Why is that so difficult for so many? All these guys out here spinning out on flats, 🙄they need to be on the tour beating Cav and Sagan on those sprints. 😂👍🏼
Great informative video. Thank you!
I agree with you, I'm on a semi-compact 52/36, and rear 11-28, now live on the outskirts of Madrid, it's crazy the amount of climbing around here, at first my training was different, and difficult, almost went to full compact but, I stuck withe my set up and feels a little easier now, my fitness is much better and stronger now, plus I like the idea to be able to stand up on certain parts of climbs, but if I went to compact AND a 11-32 in the rear, it would force me to sit, so I think if one can stick it out with a semi and 11-28 they can acomplish those climbing tasks... now if you live in the alps, or demanding terrains with massive climbing, I SURELY would have to make a change just to be able to finish a climb like that!!!! Lol.
Thx , great info most riders!!
Thanks for the info... Just thinking about getting the 105 standard... Now im getting the 105 compact... Because there is a lot of hills and mountains in my area..
Well best explained. Thank you.
Hey I really like your video. I was wondering what your opinion was on one by drive trains for mtb
I got a 50T and I'm happy with it . 👍
Pretty easy choice. If you don't have a lot of hills ride standard or compact. If you live in a hilly/mountainous area get a compact. Simple.
A simple solution to those looking to stay with the standard chainring can stay with the 53/39 but go with a 11/32 or higher cassette. Any one out there try a semi-compact 52/36 and 11/32 or 28 if so ,please share. Thanks
Thanks you’re right just what I need it to know. 😎👍🏼
My rear hub is a stormy archer 3 speed internal geared 18 tooth hub. My chainring is a 42,34,24. I am looking for advice on what would be better to get a smaller youth sprocket for my rear hub or change out my chainring set. I live in San Antonio, Texas and enjoy riding into Austin, Texas along river road and into the canyons which can get pretty difficult but I want to be able to reach higher speeds back in San Antonio wherever mostly flat. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Great video! But, I disagree. I like the larger chain ring myself. So, I’m on the small chain ring most of the time now, so the standard does help me a lot on my average speed.
Is 50-34 11-28 a good all rounder?
Thats why it comes that way on most bikes.
Well explained n informative thnx
On my climbing bike (some of the hills I ride are ~15 degrees), I have 50/34 and 32/11. I rarely use the 34/32 combo but on sustained climbs at 10+degrees, it definitely is nice to have if your heart rate gets a little high and you need to bring back down.
FOR A MAJORITY OF CYCLISTS this is a great idea even changing my big ring for a 50T has made a big difference in my riding cadence and gear selection used AND l ve hit 55km hr on the flats using 50-12 its enough to make you feel like TDF sprint finish :)
convinced we made questions back the present topic.
I have a Dura-Ace 9000 crankset set up with 52/34 chainrings and I use the 11/28 cassette. I actually thought about getting a compact 50/34 but was concerned about losing the speed on the flats and and downhills. I got the idea of changing out just the small ring from a well know racer because he said that this is what he uses and it works or shifts without issue. Sure enough it does work and I saved by not buying a 50T ring. I live where all there is are hills after hills and climbing has gotten harder for me now that I'm feeling my age. I am a little surprised to learn from you that even with a 50T ring you can still ride at 35 to 40 mph. I didn't think it would be that fast.
My road bike came with the compact Ultegra R8000 and I've been cycling for 2 years on it. Here in the Netherlands is 100% flat and my problem is, I never touch the small ring. This makes me consider switching to the 53-39 so I can have a few more gears to play with. My old road bike used to be a 52-42 I think and it felt more natural here on the flats. Any thoughts?
Don't do it unless youre maxing out your gears on the hardest regularly. If not, leave it on compact.
"The biggest hill I get around here is when I go over a bridge."
Thanks for the balanced information. Even though you advocated for a compact, your information convinced me to stay with my standard crankset. As a power rider, I live in the large chain ring, don't have the crossing issue and don't want to give up the speed.
Today I thought to by 53 chai ring, because 52 and 50 I already have, but after this video I changed my desicion. When I gonna to buy 53 chainring again, I'll watch this video and save my money.
As if you're able to sustain upwards of 67kph on a 110 rpm for longer periods. Poser.
I own a compact.and I'm always using large chainring ring and 12,14,16 sprockets in flat. Don't really use the 11 and 32. Once i get a little money. I'll get 12-27 cassette, standard crankset and short cage derailleur.
And I never ever do cross chain.
I agree 100%, intelligent presentation! Nowadays only pros use standard and on the hard climbs EVEN THEY use compact to save their legs for the remaining stages of the race!
I also live in Florida and am an above average cyclist - and am 71 yrs old. I currently have a 56/36 chainring and 11/28 cassette. I'm going to a 50/34 chainring, should I consider changing the cassette? I'm in Florida and average 15-18 mph
Very intelligent video, I agree 100% with you, there is about 200 people on Earth who would need any kinda special setup- the Le Tour guys- they've got their flat racers, and they've got their climbing setups so they just swap bike depending on the section they do and pumping out 450ws for hours... :) ....the rest of us gonna be totally fine with the compact! Not to mention the even less # of speed racers with the 1x1 say 60x11......
I used this video and others to decide on a compact for my look kg486 frame I built. I have a 11-23 cassette. I'm not a super strong cyclist, but after 3 years I find myself always wanting to cross chain the compact. The small chainring is too easy, so I always want to be on the smaller cassette or I'd want to be on the big ring on the bigger cogs. The 39 on the standard is exactly what I need. I went the other way and switched to standard. High cadence might be how you win races, but most avg cyclists probably prefer to bike at a lower cadence for sustained rides.
Standard with an 11/32 works for me. For long grueling climbs (which I dont usually do on my road bike) not so much😁
LuisManuelHdez
This is a great way to go and I really like this set up on one of my bikes.
5:58 that's the key point, standard suite's for group race
how is shifting more is less off a deal from only gaining couple of watts from cross chaining ?
I spin out too quick on a compact. I'm using a medium compact. Even with that I'm usually in my big ring on flat surfaces at 16-17mph. Standard may be my favorite but we do have some hills nearby.
I am always in 53-11 in flat roads of Texas. I like the speed.. with standard. Just like the way it feels. Went from a compact to standard and couldn't be happier. Actually crave more gearing looking for 54.....I think it's more like weights at the gym. If you prefer a tougher gear.....Go with standard. I noticed a speed boost when riding standard over compact on the flats.Easier to get into mid 30mphs than with compact. Compact feels like there's no chain on at high speeds. Yes some may like that, but I like it to feel like there's still pull in chain. Standard also allows you to overtake people quicker than a compact. Just more torque for quick accelerations.
I have standard and I want to go to mid compact. But after reading your comment maybe I'm going to stick with the standard
Yeah, this is the issue i'm having with a 50, at 55-60km/h there's little feel from the chain. Will be trying out a 52 shortly.
hello, can I ask for advice? I ride cx bike with triple crankset 50-39-30 and a 12-25 cassete, 10 speed. Is there some option for a cassete where I can get a higher gear ratio (I have an impression when I am in highest gear: 50-12, I feel that I can put s higher gear and ride a little bit faster). I know that road bike configuration with standard and semi compact cranksets is faster option but i really prefer cx bikes, because of ocasional offroad. Thanks.
11-42t cassette 10 speed with long arm derailleur and derailleur extension piece just in case
I think riding TT bikes is an exception. I ride a 80-100 rpm cadence on a road bike.
But on a tt bike, it's easier to bring the cadence down to a 70-90 rpm cadence which is why I ride a standard crank or even a 55/42.
I will listen for ever im new
Why you stop making vids?! They’re great man!
The only time I ever regret having a compact is if i'm going for a flat PR/CR on Strava. I also live in Washington State so having that 34 in the front is crucial for me lol lots of hills out here
What if i swap the 39 chainring in my standard for for a 34 and then I end up with a 53/34? Won't that be ideal? I will be fast on flatroads and downhill and climb fast as well .somebody please enlighten me.
I have a 10speed drivetrain, 11-25 casette by the way.
+kay poly most standard cranks have a bolt pattern that won't allow a 34 to fit. Besides, shifting would be very poor with such a gap between the sizes. In your situation I would just get an 11-28 cassette. Otherwise you would need a new crankset.
Exactly, check 110 BCD vs 130 BCD
Sorry, I made a mistake. I have a 52/39 but, now i run 52/36 11-34 I climb every piece of road thrown at me.
I have an shimano 105 FC-5700 53/39T crankset. Does anyone know if I can just swap the chainrings or do I need to buy a whole crankset. Thanks!
Coming from standard to compact i can say that compact is efficient on : chain line being straight = to less dragging, good for long mountains climbs and faster cadence !
Only down side high end speed but is actually marginal if you know how to convert a decend into a good aero decend .
More shifting is usually need it over the cassette to rich 25 mph but hey is just like a outo trannsmission in my mind 😆
I just upgraded my 52/40 1986 Peugeot to a new crankset made by velo orange and here in Virginia in the Blue Ridge Mountains I found even with a freewheel with 14/32 it was always exhausting to climb. I kept the same freewheel but now have 46/30. I couldn't believe how much better and faster I could ride keeping the cadence up. It was a couple of mph faster for the avg speed. That was huge for this 69 year old man. Good video. Thanks for your time and reinforcement.
@@joejones2700 is you inner ring 46 or the outer?
@@Terrifier1984 outer is 46
Totally agree. I live in a fairly flat area. On my group rides, I'm typically hitting a 20-21 mph rolling average and generally pulling at 23-25 on the open road. I like to spin at 100 rpm. and I find I spend the vast majority of the time in the 53x19 or 53x17. Given that I'm running a 11-25, that's pretty high up the block. On steep climbs, I'm either cross chaining the 53 or searching madly for a gear on the 39. A compact crank gets me into the middle of the block with plenty of room to go up and plenty of room to go down. The only exception I can see for non-pro US-based riders is potentially race day for a strong cat 1-2 crit racers who is going to spend most of the race at 29 mph+. Those guys likely do need a 53. But that's not me, or likely you.
Good content,im new to biking, I was wondering, if I change my cassette and chain rings,do I have to change both deraileurs and shifting mechanism?
I have a compact on my TT bike and hit about 95 cadence in 50x11 at 38 mph downhill... Compact is fine for most people.
what about those of us who have a profound love for sprinting? almost every time I ride, I do several high effort sprints. I just love the power and speed involved with sprinting. pushing my body to extremes and really getting my speed going. now, I recently switched from a standard crankset to a compact and I found myself spinning out way before I was able to hit the apex of my sprint and this compromise between the two cranksets is having my pretty bummed out on the new bike i just bought. to be fair, My new bike is a couple lbs heavier and has a longer wheelbase. i switched from a Cannonade SuperSix 10 sp i think it was 52/36 and 11-26. now I'm on a 2019 BMC road machine Ultra Di2 50/34 11/32 11sp. I love the bike but I'm having a hard time finding reasons not to return it for a more race driven bike or, Should I invest in a standard crankset and rear cassette for race days?
You need a 11 to 25 cassette for subcompact sprinting. Your not thinking outside the box
25 to 34 climbing is perfect look at a chart it's the same gearin you had with more even spread. You only lose a quarter a rotation wheel spin max from 53 to a 50 but it's a lot easier to spin
50x11 at 100 rpm is equal to 36 miles an hour if im not mistaken... Usually sprinter get to 120/150 rpm... Meaning you'd sprint faster than 36 miles an hour... How many times I go faster than 40 miles an hour while racing crits??? If I'm fighting towards the Finnish line for a podium I'll get to 1500/1600 w and maybe 43miles an hour... Other than that... Oh well
I use I 50/34 with an 11/28 and that's plenty for me
I'm convinced. I'm getting a compact.
how about changing your cassette from 11/28 to 11/30 with 52/26 instead of going 50/34 crank and 11/28 cassette ?
A 52/26? Are you mad? Who in the hell wants to make that shift?
I believed that was a typo…52 36
Florida in the house 🙌🏿🙌🏿🙌🏿
good video!
Would be good if you put definitions of both at the start of the video
For an older guy like me, using a slower cadence with bigger gear ratio works better because it keeps the heart rate down more. Especially important when you have a sensitive sinus node condition like me where it gets jacked up very quickly/easily and you really only have a 30-35 BPM window between avg and max heart rate. I have a lot of hills where I live, and even my easiest ride has 600 feet of climbing. Compact crankset with 11-32 cassette works fine for me, but sometimes I think maybe a sub-compact might work a little better for me. I come from 80s BMX world back when it was standard to have 44-16 or 44-17 gearing, so grinding gears (up to a point) feels natural for me. Obviously I don't grind all the time, but I find the biggest gear I can use without killing myself or the legs. Sometimes do a little cross chaining, just depends on the circumstances.
Vegas Cycling Freak
Spot on bro!
I am 70 yo I ride vintage steel 53/39 on 13- 29 still a strong rider but I like to keep my heart rate under 150 bpm
My bike with a compact drive train is a wall hanger :)
For hilly terrain I use my touring bike which has a triple - best of both worlds :)
I use a 36 46 rotor oval. I'm decent on the flat and would be cross chaining on the flat with a 50 let alone a 53. in a strong chaingang a 50 may be better. going down a mountain fast a 46 is fine it's all about corner entry exit speed. on a long straight a 53 may be better.
I have a 1996 TREK Mountain Track 820 with a Shimano Altus FC-CT91 Crankset. I'm having issues finding a similar crankset to install. It's a 38/32/24 tooth crankset. Can I install a different size crankset ie., 42/38/24? Would that work? Would appreciate anybody's input. Regards
Thanks - easy to understand and excellent, practical advice.
What about a shorter crank arm (faster cadence) and standard gearing(slower cadence)?
Shorter fulcrum (crank arm) = less torque generated coupled to standard gearing requiring more torque. That's the worst of both worlds.
I like a sub compact 46-30 much more but can't find one easily. So, I have a 50/34 with 11-34, as I live in a hilly area. I will be lucky if I can sustain 35 km on a flat for 30 min or more (only likely with the wind on your back).
Absolute Black make 46/30 oval chainrings that fit on a four bolt 110 mm BCD shimano crank
@durianrider approved.
If your cassette is 11-34 rather than 11-28, then would you still recommend getting a compact over a full size crank?
Yes as long as you got that 11teeth rear
There’s no answer for this question, it depends on how good your “engine” is......
Yes there is an answer to this. We all know how good we are, if we can maintain speeds over 40 miles per hour.... if not, compact. Simple.
Populations of cyclists, like all things, regress to a mean. The majority of people have zero business on a standard. You, like it or not, are almost certainly one of those people.
It's not uncommon for me to be hitting 40mph/64kmh going down the hills around my area. It's annoying to be spinning out, so i'll be moving to a 52/36. I also like to bomb down a steeper hill on some rides which gets me up to 75-80kmh.
I have a 39 50 with a 40 cassette you will need a roadlink to use the gears I can climb any hill I've been up mount vontoux on it oh ya even a bridge
I just purchased a BMC SLR01 that came with the Ultegra Di2 12sp with 52/36 crankset. I am coming from a BMC SLR01 Sram Red 10sp with a 50/34. I hate the 52/36. Why have 12sp if I am basically staying on the top 3-4 cogs when riding on the 52? I can’t use most of the cogs unless I drop to the smaller chainring. But I hate having to change chainrings so often. On my 10sp 50/34 I could stay on the 50 80% of the time and just switch to the 34 chainring on some uphills. Not the case here. I hate having to spend $ changing the chainrings or crankset but I will. I can go as fast as need to on the flats with the 50/11-16 gear ratio. I rather spend most of my time on the middle of the cassette and have the flexibility to go up and down without cross chaining a lot and not having to go down to the 34 chainring. In short, I agree with you. 50/34 FTW. Whenever I get stronger I may put the 52/36 back on it, but I’m 45 yo and I like higher cadences, so I don’t foresee that happening.
Is it possible to change standard with the compact? I have an Ultegra 6700 with 53/39. What compact do I need? Thanks.
+Valentin Seician Sure it is- just requires some adjusting of your front derailleur. To keep it simple just get a Shimano Ultegra 50/34 crankset.You will probably need to shorten your chain by 2 links and lower/readjust your front derailleur and it will work fine.
Thank you very much. I will take that into consideration. Very helpful info.
I have three bikes one standard 53-39. 11- 36 rear capacity of 11-40 one mid 52-36 11-34 rear and one compact 50-34 11-32 rear.
They all ride relatively the same in shifting and gear ratios. I have the same crank length on all the same 170. i have a gs rear derailleur for all three which is cheaper than switching a crankset and bottom bracket if your bike didn't come with one. you just need a wolf road, new chain and cassette. Keep old cassettes and chain for riding on different terrain flat rolling hills or steep hills.
The lower end gears have more gaps in between gears as your chainrings get bigger. However this is less noticeable if you spin over 100 rpm cadence and let off when shifting for acceleration. My standard is on my tri bike and for fast on the flats I use 11-25 or 11-23 it actually feels like less friction with larger pulley cage. However I can take it anywhere rolling hills or up walls with 11-36 .My tri and road bike are di2 mechanical hybrid commuter. hope this helps. You can get an app to compare gear ratios to do math to know what ones equal what you looking for
If you absolutely feel you must switch get the new 4 bolt 105 or ultegra because when you get stronger and want to go faster they can use chainring sizes from standard to compact or cyclocross. They say 11 speed but work with 10 speed. which will be one less thing to buy if you upgrade to 11 speed.
If the teeth on your current chainrings are not worn I recommend again changing cassettes and chain until price of new cranksets and chainrings come down unless money is no object but if that's the case buy another bike with components you want..
Thank you for the kind reply. It seems that with every week of riding I am getting more used to the bike, shifting gears and especially climbing hills. Got the road bike only 2 months ago. And being used to my MTB with 27 gears I used to climb hills with more ease, then got the road bike Scott CR 1 Team and I realised that it is much more difficult to climb hills, even when in the smallest cogs. But again, I believe it is a matter of training and getting used to the bike. I don't think it is worth for now to invest in a new chainring and modify the bike. Thanks again and cheers.
I think Froome use 52t osymetic chain ring which is even bigger than 53T, 38t is bigger than 39t
How are you sure I am not on my bikle and computer at the same time? Just kidding, great video share.
However,,, in high cadence my heart tend to high up the cadence too. So I preffer to put a little bit of force than a higher cadence, For me 53/39 and 13/32 is the perfect combination.
@banksie
I have a 50 34 and 11 34, i got eaten alive around the course but climbingis wonderful
The point about alignment is a bit moot: the big chainring on a standard is only 6% harder than on a compact, which is less than the difference between between any two consecutive cogs on your cassette. If you typically ride on the 15 tooth cog on the flat with your compact 50 tooth chainring, then you would select the 16 tooth to have the same cadence with a standard chainring. The difference in chain alignment is negligible here. For the small chainring, the same thing applies, as long as you use it only when climbing (you could conceivably ride 39x14 on the flat, but you shouldn't)
what about single 40 crank and 11-42 cassette? Understand this would limit top end somewhat but will it give enough on climbs?
IMO you should go 2x11... More gears... But to answer your question, yes, you'd be ok with your setup
I hate the compact's large gap. Always having to compensate with a million shifts on the back per front shift. I changed from a compact to a triple. I prefer the meaty feeling of a low cadence.
This also explains why I had to spend such a high amount for a replacement chainring for my crankset. I was using a 52T but I replaced it with a 50T. $240 for a chainring? WTF. Cycling is getting too expensive. I think my next bike is going to be a single speed.
Grand tours have been won by people who used low cadences. High cadences do not suit everyone. Higher cadences require more oxygen and fuel per watt into the bike.
True, a higher caence makes you a less efficient aerobic motor. However, shifting the strain from your heart to your muscles comes with the downside of more lactic acid buildup, which limits the acual ride longevity because of your legs being clogged up. Those people most-likely used some sort of doping to achieve the needed recovery after grinding up a climb and wrecking their legs.
Yep but it's easier to build you aerobic motor than you muscles, also lactic acid build up from low cadence will make your rides shorter
What does a 34 inner mean? Standard or semi
Alex W 34 inner, usually refers to the smaller chain ring, on a double or compact (50-34) crank set.
Standard / 53-39
Mid or semi compact/ 52/36.
If someone had a standard (53 big ring) and changed the inner ring to 34, which I would never recommend , then skip over the comment. They don’t know what they’re doing. It would be a nightmare 😂
Great review.
Make me want to go bigger, I do 18 average on a 44 but can push to 28mph on a good day and keep it steady for a good distance
If you’re into bikes like me and my dad. We have 4 road bikes. 1 for climbing and 1 for flats
I have a 50/40 chainring...
When I'm going to ride relatively flat, I use a 13-26 cassette...
But if I'm going to ride with a little climb, I use an 11-34 cassette...
I enjoy my ride more as compared to when I have a 50/34 chainring...
Just sharing...
Do you have a way to switch them on and off quickly? Isn't that a pain?
@@FrankZen The cassette..? It's just 4 steps, change the chain, remove the wheel, change the cassette then put the wheel back... Only need a chain plier, a hex wrench and a lock ring tool...
I have a triple on my roubaix, I pity the folks who struggle along without one.
Damon Thomas granny gears! Yay
Damon Thomas
I agree. Triple all day every day. 50, 40 30 in front and 11-32 or 11-30 on rear freewheel.
The new Tiagra is available in triple.
No hills where you live? That sucks. Where I live we have them all over the place.
i'm HUGE on the compact team, even subcompact because I live in the alps and the average 53/39 here is a 150FTP cretin who mocks me for my low ratio, but if i lived in florida i'm pretty sure even I would be using standard, with my shit FTP.
11:40 and compact- ain’t no mountain high enough :-)
chris froome isn't just using a high cadence ;)
On topic though, compact cranks (50T) seem to be governed at around 32-34 mph if you've got a 12T cassette maybe 35-36 with a 11T cog, if you're racing criteriums, standard chainring seems to be the way to go. But for the regular recreational rider, compact is nice for those hills. I went from standard for two years to a compact, felt very slow, but eventually got used to it and now I'm back to where I used to be.
I want a compact with 11-42
I ride 50,34 11-30 on my road and TT bike. I get a lot closer cadence and just feel more efficient. TT,s might be around 23-24 mph with a lot of gears left at 90 RPM. I have to chuckle when I ride past riders nearly cross chaining their 53,39 ego gears 😂. that used to be me 😂
34/50 11/28 all the way, and i have a lot of hills to climb
I live in New York City, where most climbs are going uptown or going over bridges.
I'm upgrading my AR4.
Is this best balanced,(34/50 11/28) and good for climbing?
@@kollinquinn1956 its a balanced one, if u see u cant do it with 34 and 28, then look for a 30 cassette ...
You DID Really forgot to mention that, when you see a pro cyclist doing 100 rpm's or with high cadence.... THEY ARE STILL NOT USING A STANDARD CRANKSET, THEY HAVE A HIGH CADENCE WITH A 42 OR MORE SMALL CHAINRING AND A 100RPM WITH A 54 CHAINRING
Downhill 40 mph, then hit the hill and shift to the 34 and instant 400 rpm cadence. I'm such a sucker
I just started cycling and i only ride mtb and in my case i can barely climb 15% using 42crank 30cogs cause my weight 74kg
52/36 11-28
i had this semicompact for 3 years. it helped me build great legs but i suffered a lot
compact with 11/34 for me
Are you kidding me? I also live in florida and I would never ever use a compact crank. I recently rode with a guy who has a 52t big chainring and he said he had a hard time keeping up with me. Our average was just over 19mph and hitting top end speeds of 24 to 25 mph. I also believe his cadence is to low. Also he was in big chainring and small cassette. He says he has a cadence sensor but says it doesn't always work. I spin 90ish on the flats and higher on hill climbs. I actually have some hills on a stretch of a back country road but my rides are on mostly flats. I used to spin 96-106 but found it not needed on flats and not building muscle either.
Your friend is not in good shape. Nothing to do with the crank set he was using. You can maintain 25mph easily with a 50-34, just do the math. You spin out a 50-11 at 73 km/h (45mph) at 130 RPM, an you CANNOT do that on the flat, because you're not super man. So if you do not need to pedal at 45 mph on the down hill, get a compact. It's so much better!
David Hoppes He needs more work on cadence and more training. Week legs.
i'm 56yrs.and my top speed i can do at my age is 43.7 with a 52x12.at my age i can't keep that up for very long maybe 1 mile tops but for me it doesn't matter because i'm not a pro rider i just really like my speed.but yeah i enjoy my full size crank sets.i'v tried compact and found i don't like them i can spin them out to easy.i know i'm not real fast next to the young guys but like i said i do love speed.cheers and keep the rubber side down.
Wallace Pelletier you can spin out a 50 11!? Wow you must be super old man! You can be the oldest man in the Tour de France if you can do that on anything other that a down hill.
I’m sad this channel isn’t producing anymore
Understanding an engine’s speed/torque curve predetermines a vehicles gear qty and ratios. The human body produces far less than one horsepower! So the speed torque curve is extremely peaked within a very limited speed range, I.e., your optimum cadence between 80 and 95.
That is all we need to know….
Point
Thanks
Hell no mid compact is the way to go !! If your fit enough you should be able to spin a mid compact as well ...