I found the resistor mods have most noticeable effect after I adjusted the spill valve screw clockwise one full turn from my standard position. I have to back off the throttle a small amount to maintain the same boost and rpm. All my experiments are done with clean intake manifold, air filter and 3" Free flowing exhaust and good injectors. I increased the boost from std. up to fuel-cut of 14psi before ever touching the spill valve. Previously I only made small 90deg increments in spill screw rotation, but now i've gone a full turn. Im confident I can turn the screw further than one turn as I get no smoke and EGTs are unchanged when warmed up. But I prefer to wait and get AMC head before looking for power. For now I have an awesome and reliable tow vehicle.
Hey Alton, thanks again for putting this together, really like your approach. Have you noticed fuel consumption got worse with the spill valve adjustment? I remember you had an awesomely low fuel consumption. Here waiting on mt PPD 3 inch to arrive to go further down this track.
@@martinravina6934 Hi Martin. Immediate adjustment of spill valve screw did not effect economy as I calculated 9.2l/100km(with the resistance compensation of Timing=100% and Fuel=80% on the dials). The last two fills returned worst than expected economy figures, both about 11.3l/100km, but I don't think this was caused by the spill adjustment (currently CW 360deg). I've only driven city in winter conditions, down to 3degC starts and short trips. Some of them towing approx. 1 tonne payload. I will know when Summer comes round as 11.3l/100km is the worst I've on record, I expect it will drop to be
Economy better than 10.0l/100km is on combined city and open road measures. Hope you like the PPD exhaust, mines been good so far. Only wish i'd installed the EGT sensor before the changeover. I have loads of EGT figures, but all done after the fact. So no way of quantifying a reduction of EGT temp.
@@altoncooper3751 thanks so much for the feedback. Do you think the spill valve adjustment could have been avoided if you would have used a resistor that would be able to explore the full range of the pump resistor? (1:07 says it accepts up to 2490 Ohms and you seem to have 758 + 500 variable still allowing for at least 1000 Ohm on top of you top mark. Anyhow the shorting to return to original and having this inside de cabin makes total sense so I'm definitely going to follow your steps. I owe you at least a couple of beers when I'm down in ChCh next time. Cheers!
I have a dtc 14 code on 1999 prado 1kzte. In the last year before issue popped up . New crank sensor New timing belt New tb tensioner No slop in timing belt Pump body is aligned to side slot line Since the issue New spill control valve No noticeable performance drop with the check engine light on . No excess tail pipe smoke . Somewhat of a hard start from cold . Starting motor quite noisy will fix that tomorrow. But starts every time regardless of how long you swing.
Hey mate, I love this idea. How do you know what settings are the best? Can you adjust the timing/fuel while driving and feel what works best? Would be mint to dyno it and see the data change while dialing.
The benefits come from the timing advance in combination with spill valve adjustment. Works ok until you cant get enough air from the Turbo. EGTs get too high. In my opinion, safe gains arn't enough to justify the dyno, I think we really need to have Uni-chip tune for dyno, that way the timing is right and you get the most from it across a wide range driving conditions. I'd need to check my records, but my spill valve adjustment is something like two full rotations clockwise now. Shouldn't effect the economy, and it hasn't. Gets enough air in the mix, timing good, im getting
My original timing resistor measured 863 Ohms using a multimeter. The pump gets calibrated after assembly and the technician chooses a reisistor value that brings the pump into specification tolerances defined by the manufacturer. This adjustment is required because of the inherent differences between the pumps found in manufacturing.
I found the resistor mods have most noticeable effect after I adjusted the spill valve screw clockwise one full turn from my standard position. I have to back off the throttle a small amount to maintain the same boost and rpm. All my experiments are done with clean intake manifold, air filter and 3" Free flowing exhaust and good injectors. I increased the boost from std. up to fuel-cut of 14psi before ever touching the spill valve. Previously I only made small 90deg increments in spill screw rotation, but now i've gone a full turn. Im confident I can turn the screw further than one turn as I get no smoke and EGTs are unchanged when warmed up. But I prefer to wait and get AMC head before looking for power. For now I have an awesome and reliable tow vehicle.
Hey Alton, thanks again for putting this together, really like your approach. Have you noticed fuel consumption got worse with the spill valve adjustment? I remember you had an awesomely low fuel consumption.
Here waiting on mt PPD 3 inch to arrive to go further down this track.
@@martinravina6934 Hi Martin. Immediate adjustment of spill valve screw did not effect economy as I calculated 9.2l/100km(with the resistance compensation of Timing=100% and Fuel=80% on the dials). The last two fills returned worst than expected economy figures, both about 11.3l/100km, but I don't think this was caused by the spill adjustment (currently CW 360deg). I've only driven city in winter conditions, down to 3degC starts and short trips. Some of them towing approx. 1 tonne payload. I will know when Summer comes round as 11.3l/100km is the worst I've on record, I expect it will drop to be
Economy better than 10.0l/100km is on combined city and open road measures. Hope you like the PPD exhaust, mines been good so far. Only wish i'd installed the EGT sensor before the changeover. I have loads of EGT figures, but all done after the fact. So no way of quantifying a reduction of EGT temp.
@@altoncooper3751 thanks so much for the feedback. Do you think the spill valve adjustment could have been avoided if you would have used a resistor that would be able to explore the full range of the pump resistor? (1:07 says it accepts up to 2490 Ohms and you seem to have 758 + 500 variable still allowing for at least 1000 Ohm on top of you top mark. Anyhow the shorting to return to original and having this inside de cabin makes total sense so I'm definitely going to follow your steps. I owe you at least a couple of beers when I'm down in ChCh next time. Cheers!
@@martinravina6934 The fuel compensation resistor effects the lower rev range (
I have a dtc 14 code on 1999 prado 1kzte.
In the last year before issue popped up .
New crank sensor
New timing belt
New tb tensioner
No slop in timing belt
Pump body is aligned to side slot line
Since the issue
New spill control valve
No noticeable performance drop with the check engine light on . No excess tail pipe smoke . Somewhat of a hard start from cold . Starting motor quite noisy will fix that tomorrow. But starts every time regardless of how long you swing.
Any help much appreciated .
@@nategmaycock9398 code is a control valve
After resistor mod ? too much advance
Hey mate, I love this idea. How do you know what settings are the best? Can you adjust the timing/fuel while driving and feel what works best?
Would be mint to dyno it and see the data change while dialing.
The benefits come from the timing advance in combination with spill valve adjustment. Works ok until you cant get enough air from the Turbo. EGTs get too high. In my opinion, safe gains arn't enough to justify the dyno, I think we really need to have Uni-chip tune for dyno, that way the timing is right and you get the most from it across a wide range driving conditions. I'd need to check my records, but my spill valve adjustment is something like two full rotations clockwise now. Shouldn't effect the economy, and it hasn't. Gets enough air in the mix, timing good, im getting
What was the fuel pump timing original resistance?
My original timing resistor measured 863 Ohms using a multimeter. The pump gets calibrated after assembly and the technician chooses a reisistor value that brings the pump into specification tolerances defined by the manufacturer. This adjustment is required because of the inherent differences between the pumps found in manufacturing.