The 2nd video in this series. The top is prepped, and epoxy is used to fill and stabilize the 2 slabs. www.systemthree.com/products/... www.systemthree.com/products/...
Welcome aboard! We may have to head into the shop if the weather gets bad enough. We have a small backlog of milling jobs we need to get done though. I did start a cherry coffee table. May have to jump in on that one.
Living, and learning my friend. Only my second time using epoxy. I will keep that in mind for the next project. I will be using the penetrating epoxy on the soft sap wood areas. My first time using that.
I don't know if it would help here but I've seen guys line the edges of the voids with a bead of silicone to create a pool over the cracks. I guess it allows the excess epoxy drain into the voids. I haven't tried epoxy yet but I'm looking forward to it.I can't wait to see your finished project.
Hey Jason. I know what you're saying. I"ve seen some other do that. It appears that it's to helps on deep pours, to keep the extra epoxy from flowing anyway from the void.
I'm still looking for some to use. No issues with a mess this time. This table is temporary as well. I plan on a redesign, and will see about incorporating a roll into the design.
i use incredible solutions table top epoxy. i made a kitchen table out of very old reclaimed pine and coated the top with it. looks great and very hard.
Awesome video series, thank you! I'm getting ready to do the exact same thing with a 16'6" slab for an 8x8 L shaped bar. Any chance you could show a quick walk around of your router table? I'm mostly curious how you supported the bottom to keep flex out and what you used for and did to the rails.
Thank you very much, and welcome to the channel. I will have to take some time, and do a shop walk through. I hope the video helped with your project. We had fun building this one. Hope you do the same.
That's why I was heating it slightly. It was flowing much better then. Also, I'm going to try some penetrating epoxy first, to soak on, and seal the softer wood. Thank you for your advise. Do you have the name of some good thinner to use?
Hello Pete, and thank you for your question. I did heat it with the heat gun, while it was in the cup. That seemed to work well. Heating it after I poured it, was to pop the bubbles. It did help it flow even better then as well.
I like using epoxy for filling, but not as a finish. I think it hides the true wood appearance, under a layer of thick plastic. I like some of their countertop finishes that look like granite, but dont like to cover natural wood.
That's going to be a great looking bar top my friend. You do awesome work.
This was a fun build. A few challenges working with love edge, but it worked out in the end.
Thanks man! Loved it. As good as Abom79 and Keith Rucker. Big ups!
Thank you very much. We take that as a huge compliment. This is a passion, and we hope to make it here on CZcams
You’re doing a great job Chuck..your time and effort will pay off handsomely!🙂🙂
Thank you as always. I always work to put my best effort into a project, and learn new things where possible. So far, this one is working out well.
Just found your channel. Love your work. Would love to see more of your projects. But will always follow your mill work.
Welcome aboard! We may have to head into the shop if the weather gets bad enough. We have a small backlog of milling jobs we need to get done though. I did start a cherry coffee table. May have to jump in on that one.
he was a good man
Coming along nicely!
Thank you James. This one is a lot of fun.
In was surprised that you didn't use the penetrating epoxy on ok the punky area first and then do the fill.
Living, and learning my friend. Only my second time using epoxy. I will keep that in mind for the next project.
I will be using the penetrating epoxy on the soft sap wood areas. My first time using that.
Deb is awesome she’s the boss ♥️♥️
I let her think so. LOL
She's the best
I don't know if it would help here but I've seen guys line the edges of the voids with a bead of silicone to create a pool over the cracks. I guess it allows the excess epoxy drain into the voids. I haven't tried epoxy yet but I'm looking forward to it.I can't wait to see your finished project.
Hey Jason. I know what you're saying. I"ve seen some other do that. It appears that it's to helps on deep pours, to keep the extra epoxy from flowing anyway from the void.
If you are going to use the router table like this again, get a roll of kraft paper to protect the surface. Clean up would be easy.
I'm still looking for some to use. No issues with a mess this time. This table is temporary as well. I plan on a redesign, and will see about incorporating a roll into the design.
i use incredible solutions table top epoxy. i made a kitchen table out of very old reclaimed pine and coated the top with it. looks great and very hard.
Great job reclaiming that old timber. Too much is lost to the fire pit or landfill.
What bIt do you use in your router for the sled? Seems like it may be a great solution for my projects that are over 15 inches wide.
Hello James, and thank you for your question. The bit is a Freud 1 1/2" mortising bit. It's doing a great job so far.
Awesome video series, thank you! I'm getting ready to do the exact same thing with a 16'6" slab for an 8x8 L shaped bar. Any chance you could show a quick walk around of your router table? I'm mostly curious how you supported the bottom to keep flex out and what you used for and did to the rails.
Thank you very much, and welcome to the channel. I will have to take some time, and do a shop walk through. I hope the video helped with your project. We had fun building this one. Hope you do the same.
It would be worth adding a little epoxy thinner before use - the epoxy would flow into the gaps much better.
That's why I was heating it slightly. It was flowing much better then. Also, I'm going to try some penetrating epoxy first, to soak on, and seal the softer wood.
Thank you for your advise. Do you have the name of some good thinner to use?
Have you considered heating your epoxy before pouring? 100 degrees works good, thinner for better flow.
Hello Pete, and thank you for your question. I did heat it with the heat gun, while it was in the cup. That seemed to work well. Heating it after I poured it, was to pop the bubbles. It did help it flow even better then as well.
Can I leave the bark on my live edge or is that not a good idea..
Have you tried Stone Coat products for your epoxy? It is self leveling and dries clear unless you add a colorant.
I like using epoxy for filling, but not as a finish. I think it hides the true wood appearance, under a layer of thick plastic.
I like some of their countertop finishes that look like granite, but dont like to cover natural wood.