Belly Bulge Repair on Acoustic Guitar 1 of 2
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
- Belly bulge is the term for when the bridge on an acoustic guitar lifts and brings the whole top with it. it's caused by a number of things...too many to list here but mostly from improper hydration, a poor design, not enough glue between the braces and the top, but enough braces, aliens, lizzy borden's ax or Joe Biden fell asleep on it. guitar top repair, guitar top bow, bowed guitar top lifted, guitar bridge pulled up, etc.
Very nice video, thanks. What makes me scratching my head is: Boy Taylor did a nearley similar procedure on a Taylor guitar with cracks but there was quite the opposite issue of belly bulge to this guitar due to lack of humidity. So I am still asking me what condition of humitdity will cause the belly to come up. As you implied heat and weight to the belly I could imagine that the prozess would rather softening the glue of the belly plate and restructering the joint than flatening the whole top. I have three guitars with this issue and my humidity at home is at avarage 65 %. The bad belly bulge is with the 12 string, so think it is a combination of string tension glue issues and maybe structural imbalance and not primary the ambient humidity. There is a professional tool that will heat the belly plate up to 150 degree Celsius after removing the bridge. Think the rising of humidity will only soften the wood to the point when heat and pressure can do the job.
Damn...I watched this video today and completely agree with the thumbs downs! Holy super slow talking, taking ten minutes to explain something that should've taken two minutes Batman. Also sniffling and stuffed up sinuses made for exceptionally annoying narration. I'm really sorry...I'm obviously not a video maker...or a luthier! I just did that guitar repair and it worked so well that I made a video. If I had found that anyone else had made a similar video then I wouldn't have done this. But using heat, humidity and weight to reduce bulge to almost zero is something that I couldn't find on CZcams. Not saying it's not..just that I couldn't find it. Had a cold that day so I was stuffed up and sniffling...two more reasons to thumbs down my kindergarten quality video creation. Bottom line is the repair works really well so...there it is. Thank you to everyone who viewed it and please let me know if it worked. P.S. I'm not trying to do anything with this channel, I have no clue why anyone would subscribe to it besides my family, I'm not looking for views or thumbs ups, I'm just trying to help people by making what I think might be helpful videos. But they're mostly my family, daughters, cats and motorcycles etc. That's all. Thanks again:)
Hi
I think it´s great, but I didn´t get it at full
Please excuse me, but english is not my primary language
I´ve watched this video again and again, I hope you can help:
-The procedure is with or without string tension?
If I understand correctly, the procedure is this:
1-Place moist rag (on something plastic) inside the guitar
2-Put that green snake inside the guitar
3-Put a towel on the bottom of the guitar near the bulge area
4-Put a rag over the guitar top
5-Rest the heating mat over the rag that protects the top
6-Setup a spot right on the bulge (most likely on the bridge) with a towel to place the weight
At this point It´s not clear for me
-Should I put the weight at the very same time the heating mat begins to work or after some time?
7-Should I leave the heating mat + weight working overnight, then check in the morning and if necessary add some weight and leave for 12 hours more?
Thanks in advance
You don't need heat.
lol he is a lonely engineer impressed by his wisdom
You're an internet troll with zero videos on your channel. At least i'm trying to help.
@@Mikkeyboyy He’s not very lonely
Source: He’s my dad 💀
Very enlightening video. Granted, cinematography has room for improvement, but you claim nothing more than to share the benefit of your experience. I, for one, appreciate it. I checked your videos page and couldn't find part 2, but it seems part 1 and the comment replies hold the key information.
But tell us, please; how has the repair held up after two years? I just bought an Alvarez 5214-12 (string) with a bulge, and thought I'd put in a Bridge Doctor, but your method is simple, inexpensive, and provided the desired outcome. Just wondering if it lasts. Thanks for making this video!
A - "I posted part 2 immediately after this one...but it's gone? I'll try to find it in my gallery...hopefully I didn't delete it. It I did then I'll try to re create and post it. Basically I just added the heating mat and more weight. The heating pad heats the area "10° to 20° F above ambient air temperature". It's a "Hydrofarm Inc. Jump Start Seedling Heat Mat". I didn't take any temp readings which was a mistake but I'm gonna estimate the temp at approx 90° F or 32° C. The combination of the heat, extra humidity and weight were the keys to getting the bulge out. I had weight on there but without the heat and humidity it did nothing. Good luck with it!
P.S. Even if I did one of those bulge kits I would definitely use heat and humidity so the bulge would come out gently and without causing any damage. I suggest you quantify your beginning point by measuringand recording, then you can see the effects of your repair job, it's more fun that way too as you can tell exactly what you did. You can show exact measurements instead of being like "ya man, it was waaaay worse than it is now!"
Again...good luck!! And thank you for your kind words:) They're pretty rare here on the old internet."
How long did you keep the heating pad on the guitar?
@@paulalcamo2255 - That post is not originally mine. I copied and pasted from the author's other lesson.
Why does the video title say "1 of 2"? And it just cuts off mid-sentence at the end? Is there a part 2? Where?
I posted part 2 immediately after this one...but it's gone? I'll try to find it in my gallery...hopefully I didn't delete it. It I did then I'll try to re create and post it. Basically I just added the heating mat and more weight. The heating pad heats the area "10° to 20° F above ambient air temperature". It's a "Hydrofarm Inc. Jump Start Seedling Heat Mat". I didn't take any temp readings which was a mistake but I'm gonna estimate the temp at approx 90° F or 32° C. The combination of the heat, extra humidity and weight were the keys to getting the bulge out. I had weight on there but without the heat and humidity it did nothing. Good luck with it!
P.S. Even if I did one of those bulge kits I would definitely use heat and humidity so the bulge would come out gently and without causing any damage. I suggest you quantify your beginning point by measuringand recording, then you can see the effects of your repair job, it's more fun that way too as you can tell exactly what you did. You can show exact measurements instead of being like "ya man, it was waaaay worse than it is now!"
Again...good luck!! And thank you for your kind words:) They're pretty rare here on the old internet.
Is there a part 2 posted? I want to fix up an old Ibanez sage acoustic but I don't wanna pay $150 for the Thompson belly reducer to reglue the bridge on flat. I honestly really like how you explained your process and how methodical you were.
Wow, thank you! So glad that i might be able to help you! One critical part that I'm not sure I included is a thorough inspection of the structure and glue joints inside the guitar. You'll be looking for any gaps between the braces and the top sides and back, any cracks, any factory defects, previous repair attempts, anything. Because you need to know where you're starting. I got a small dish towel size towel, got it fairly wet and did my best at cleaning the inside of dust and spider web leftovers. If you see gaps then you'll want to get some appropriate glue and fill the gaps AFTER you've gotten the belly bulge out. Also, after you get the bulge out, you really want to do your best at keeping it hydrated with one of those snake things that you soak in water then stick inside. I bought a little hygrometer from Amazon...they're so cheap that you can buy a 12 pack of them for $20. No idea why someone would need a dozen but that's what they offer. I bought this (link below) two pack for $5 because I have two acoustic guitars. I've found that you can get all the bulge out but it you shoot for like 80% then you'll be fine. And keeping 80% of the bulge out is more realistic. Those strings are pulling on that bridge constantly, with a decent amount of force, so you're temporarily fighting a constant force.
If you have any specific questions then feel free to respond. Thank you:)
www.amazon.com/dp/B08H7VPTLS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_bia.Fb9R3KW28
$10 just for eh cauls, then $150 for 3 clamps, not sure they even work for anything over a half mm... heating pad, weight, several ways to do this but do not exceed 120 deg.. put the heat inside as in a light bulb, then inside a case, stack cards on top the body bulge and close guitar case lid on the works let sit for a few hours so wood can move.. start slow and low heat, so low heat and not many cards or shims at a time, increase till desired results...
or the way he did it, heating pad, weights on top, shouldn't matter if the heat is on top or inside what's important is the wood is heated through, braces and top, heat allows you to move and bend wood, this is how the sides are made, heat molded.. once cooled the wood retains that shape, so consider that, watch how an acoustic is made primarily the sides.. the heat changes the molecular structure and loosens the fibers so it can move.
that's all you are doing to the braces that have moved over time and tension, consider applying slight - movement so with string tension top comes back perfectly and your job lasts longer, not like wood has memory, it stays where its cooled, so if heated and shaped, then cooled in said shape that's where it wants to stay however, time gave it bulge so if you add some slight negative and it comes back flat with string tension you're that much further ahead of the game.. I have like 8 vintage yamahas need this, one is the brazilian FG580.. very nice guitar, lost a half inch section of binding on the headstock, sad cuz its so aged and tinted at this point, hate to put new on it or repair, cannot find the piece.. boo
good luck
I'm really grateful for this information, thank you! Been searching around the web for alternatives to going the JLD bridge doctor route or Thompson belly reducer. My guitar belly situation is for a guitar that is probably not worth dumping a ton of money into. So if I make a mistake its not the biggest loss. Happy there is a home remedy route. Hopefully Part 2 of the video shows up! Quick question about adding weight to the top. Just trying to get a mental picture of the set up. You would lay the weights right on top of the heating pad just below the bridge? Also, how long did you find you needed to leave the heating pad/weights on for? I may have missed that piece of info. Thanks again.
I'll re create the setup and make a quick video. But in the mean time...I had a wet rag on a plastic bag inside so it wouldn't soak the wood but would increase the humidity. I then covered the hole to trap the moisture in. Then placed the heating pad and a folded towel to direct or hold the heat onto the guitar where the bulge is. Then added weight overnight. I'm guessing the slower you do it the better it will work so I did about 10lbs overnight, then went to 15lbs overnight then a total of 20lbs overnight. It's been months and the guitar is still flat. I wish this system would work for my belly bulge! I didn't do it this way on purpose..I kept adding weight because the lighter weights didn't work enough. So you might be able to go right to 20lbs overnight and it will work and it might last too..I'm not sure though. I'd go slow..it bulged slowly, so try to remove it slowly..that makes sense to my brain but who knows! Good luck!
imperative temp is controlled! too hot will loosen the glue and create other issues, no more than say 120? deg.. weight and warmth will loosed the wood fibers, then you must COOL the wood with weight still on so it sets int he shape you want it
Hi. I cannot find video 2 of 2 in this series. Could someone please post the link for it? Thanks
Sorry I did not quite get what helped to get the belly down I watched this 3 times.. Was it the moist rag? What was the beneficial process to flatten the belly?
Hello, thank you for watching my video:) I kept accurate notes on amount of belly bulge over time and in response to different things i tried. The answer to your question is yes, but the weight is critical too. The humidity helps get the structure ready to move, the heat helps the humidity to really soak into the wood, and the weight does the actual work, it moves the bulge back down. I suggest you follow these steps:
1. Place moist rag inside guitar on something plastic so the water doesn't soak the wood.. you just want the atmosphere to be humid, don't want to soak the wood.
2. Place a towel on the bottom of the guitar near or on the bulge area, then place a heating mat like the kind you use to warm a specific area of your body, or a seedling heating mat. Seedling heating mats are $13 on Amazon and that's what i used..i know they don't get too hot so you won't have to use a laser thermometer to verify temp.
3. Setup a spot right on the bulge with a towel to place the weight. The bridge is most likely the place where you want to put it. I started light and ended up with 20lbs i think. It's in the video.
4. Remove after 24 hours and measure three bulge. If it hasn't reduced, add more weight and go another 24 hours.
You don't want to move it quickly, it bulged ever so slowly so move it back slowly. Mine is still flat and it's been months. Having the atmosphere inside the guitar high humidity for a couple days before you add weight is good, i don't think you want to add weight when it's dry. Good luck!!!
@@mboyer68 That was very kind and helpful to write all these instructions. I have guessed from your video that this was the actual procedure so I already have some good results but I have more guitars with belly so I will try on others! Thank you again!
Hi Just wondered if you kept the heat on for 24 hours as well.@@mboyer68
8/64th is 1/8th!! equivalent to 3mm .....BUT WHY DO YOU SAY 8/64TH IN STEAD OF 1/8TH???
Where is part 2?
I have an Alvarez AG60 CE with the same problem , but I live in a High humidity environment .
Any suggestions on how i can reduce the bulge since i can't use the sponge to release moisture ?
Add strings on it is ? Tension
I think you're taking a good approach. It's a good possibility the guitar has dried over time. Most acoustics will grow a belly. It's not a big problem unless it gets really bad. Applying a dampener and some weight, and some time, probably will bring it down to 'acceptable'. Thereafter, keep it reasonably humidified (Google for a number}, and enjoy.
What if I use a simple wet cloth and the weight? Would it work?
I applied 17 kg on my guitar. ..to down its belly is there nay prblm with it
I'm not sure about what you wrote..did it fix the belly bulge problem?
1) Thanks for posting its relevant information. 2) One of the main things omitted is TEMPERATURE OF HEAT AT THE BRIDGE ... (types of glue .. .tolerences of those glues - sensitivity to water vs heat and visa versa ..... starting with lower heat and lower weight and
measuring temperature at bridge and belly etc .... AS AN ENGINEER (I'm not an engineer but I have worked with a good many fine engineers and wood craftsmen, machinist, mechanics, etc ...) I have a lot of experience with instruments, wood etc ... THERE IS A LOT OF INFORMATION MISSING HERE ABOUT ... different types of wood, glues, building methods, materials, makes .... disclaimers ... warnings about possible damage to instruments (like applying too much heat that could do damage to bridge, bridge plate .... braces ... previous repairs of cracks etc .... ... if anyone is going to do perform this sort of work ... do it on a less expensive guitar first and get skill-set honed .... not your more expensive MARTIN or GIBSON etc .... even middle of road guitars. Largest concern HEAT, TIME ... measurements .... protecting the rest of the top while applying ANY heat .... WHAT TO USE FOR WEIGHTS so they don't slip and harm the finish or worst ... lots of stuff ... As a "TRAINED ENGINEER" I WOULD expect a bit more careful approach and documentation before publishing ... and a careful follow up of results after 1 week, 1 month, 2 months, 6 month etc....
thanks >>> just sayin
Publishing? Publishing? This is youtube, where the most popular videos are things farting or singing songs with farts. This isn't some MIT information repository. How the fuck would i know what glue they used? Or what it's properties are? And if i did, would that have helped you? Because you know the type of glue on your guitar and it's properties, right? What a jackass you are, holy shit.
Painful to watch but kind of informative I guess.
P
Camera work is less than stellar and the narrative, continual back and forth to find the correct page of information has me almost in a coma. Most of us, guitarist, know how to use a rule and measurement points on any measuring device. So, I'm out of here. Bored! You need a fixed camera position zoomed out to see all the movements you are using. No offense, but this is too hard to watch.
dood, put the fookin camera DOWN, then make your video, FFS!