Trying Out a Back Blade for Plowing Snow with My Kubota Tractor
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- čas přidán 22. 08. 2024
- I procured a back blade for my Kubota B2301 compact tractor in order to plow the snow on my property. My biggest concern is tearing up the gravel driveway. Therefore I experimented with blade angles, starting with a shallow angle and moving, if necessary, to a more aggressive angle to optimize snow removal without digging into the gravel.
Instead of using the camera mounts attached to my tractor, I used the head mount for my GoPro. Only later realizing how much and how quickly I move my head back and forth. Therefore I apologize for some of the on-tractor shots with a lot of camera movement.
Years ago I used a back blade for plowing snow. The one I had was far enough away from the tractor to spin it all the way around and face backwards. If we got a deep and/or heavy snow fall, I'd spin it around and plow backwards. Pain in the neck and not ideal, but it worked for the first pass. Then I'd flip it back around for clean-up. Now I have a 47hp with a front plow w/3rd function. Life is good.
Being that is now August, you have figgured out your adjustments.
During a heavy snow winter it is important to push back to the maximum for a place to put future snows as it will be nearly impossible after it freezes and thaws several times.
Tip from a 17 yr pro snow man.
Thanks for the tip. Last year it only snowed enough to need to plow twice, but I can see a much higher snowfall in any given winter lead to running out of room if I don't get it off the drive far enough.
Great video, I have a kubota L2501 with a heavy duty rear blade. I also have ice under my snow quite often. One trick that keeps it from biting in, yet won't rip up your gravel and grass, is to turn you blade around, driving forward, it will float instead of bite, AND you can have your top link fully extended. Speed also helps with the snow roll, but be very cautious, as I learned the scary way, when the weight of resistance against my blade didn't kick the rear over, it slid the front end and nose dove me towards the ditch. Sadly these all purpose tires just don't do well in ice, and I too am considering biting the bullet on at least rear chains. I don't have rim guard in my tires, as my tractor is much heavier and my rear blade weighs just shy of 700lbs. Once my ground is frozen, I run my top link about midway, otherwise it lifts the blade off the ground when I go down hills. With that ice, you've got 2 things against you, lack of weight, (with your blade down, your loader tries lifting your rear up, lack of traction. On the icy spots you could also try driving backwards with the rear blade down, it'll float over the ice, pushing the snow, but just like with the blade turned around driving forward, going backwards with the blade it floats nicely over grass and gravel. I use my blade in reverse quite a bit. Plus, then unlike driving forward with it, your not driving on uneven ground, so the blade stays level. After your first pass driving forward, you're driving over your 1st pass' pile and it tilts your blade, plus you lose traction. Sadly with snow, there's not a 1 thing does it all attachment, just like all snows aren't the same. I'd like a
snow pusher,
a 3 point blower(for our occasional 2ft snows, or 5ft drifts)
A front angle blade,
And alas, tire chains.
Just to name a few.
That's quite a dissertation you wrote there, but all good information. I was planning on trying the blade in reverse as one of the experiments, but by the time I had tried all the previous methods the snow was all cleared. Also, oddly with that blade there are only three settings in reverse orientation as opposed to five in the forward orientation. I'll try with the next snowfall however. I agree that there isn't any one good "do everything" attachment for snow. 700 lb back blade, eh? That must be fun hooking up.
Spray pam on the blade to make it more slippery.
I've heard that works. Possibly WD -40 as well. We have a 1- to 3-inch snowfall predicted for this evening. Good time to test it out.
You need to angle the blade to shove it off the driveway. Otherwise it just builds up.
I have the same grading blade as you (or darn close). I make my first pass with the blade reversed (plowing, going in reverse) and then switch back to pulling (grading mode) for touch up and have had good results.
Whoops! Forgot to say I appreciate your videos!
Thanks for the feedback. I'll be sure to give that a try next time. No significant snow in the forecast, however. I may have to wait a while to give it a whirl.
Speed is your friend! The faster you can go, the farther it pushes the snow and the less chance of sliding out. Also, as others have stated, chains on the back will help a lot.
Thanks for the input. So, when I see those guys in pickups plowing parking lots at 50 mph it's not because they are in a hurry, but because it works better that way. Next time I plow I'll have chains and a turbo I guess.
with a rear blade on a smaller tractor push the snow in reverse and after you have a pile lift a little on the blade to increase traction on rear wheels
I have a big gravel driveway too, and worry about digging it up while plowing. For my first couple of plows each season, I either turn the blade all the way around, or just plow in reverse, so the blade doesn't dig into the gravel. After a couple plows, the snow/ice is packed hard enough that I can go forward and my blade won't dig up the gravel. I live in northern Minnesota, so I spend a lot of time plowing November to April.
In southeast Michigan we don't get too many snowfalls, and many times in between there's a couple of sunny 40+ degree days that melts anything left. So, unlikely I'll ever get a packed base to plow over. I used to live in the U.P. of Michigan and we'd end up with 6 inches of base in the driveway (small driveway so we shoveled, not plowed). Amazing that only 3 or 4 degrees of latitude makes that much of a difference.
I say the top link is adjusting the "tilt" and the blade adjustment is the "angle". Soft gravel is tricky, but once it's frozen, you'll have no problem running your blade normally (less tilt than at 5:30).
Yes, that's my thought as well. The more frozen the ground is the less chance of gouging up the driveway. We haven't had much in the way of sustained below zero temps this year so it'll be a while before I can pull that tilt back. Then again, it doesn't look like it's going to snow any time soon, either.
That blade looks really rough.....like rusty, rough. Snow won’t want to slide off of that. Wire wheel it and add some paint. More angle and full beans! Momentum is your friend. Have fun!
It's probably more rougher looking if you were to see it in person, LOL. Good idea to smooth it and paint with something high gloss to reduce the sticking of the snow. Thanks for the tips.
You should spray the blade with WD-40 before plowing, this should keep the snow from sticking to it.
I'll definitely give that a try next time. Thanks.
I only have a box blade now but I have been looking at getting a plow.
You mentioned the top link, but are you aware that making the plow frame parallel to the ground will keep the blade level regardless of its angle?
You are correct, making the frame parallel to the ground will keep the blade level at any angle. The reason I started it raked forward with the top link (resulting in less aggressive cut) is because I was concerned that the blade straight up (90 degrees with the ground) may dig into the driveway and I'd end up plowing much of my 22A limestone to the side along with the snow. I'll be gradually decreasing the rake (closer to parallel) and keeping an eye on any digging up of stone) with future plowings. Ideally I'd be able to run parallel, thus no adjustment if I change the blade angle, without worrying about digging into the driveway. That may also depend on how frozen everything is as well. Thanks for your input.
Have you tried the PVC on the cutting edge yet? Works good for me.
I have not. What size do you recommend?
@@thecountrylivingproject3263 I have a four inch black PVC pipe on my eight foot blade, I clamped a straight edge to one side and cut the kerf with a circular saw. Then I slid it over the bolts on the cutting edge. czcams.com/video/RTfuY8gLwAc/video.html
Please try to stop some of the movement of your camera.
Need chains.
I was hoping I wouldn't have to go through the hassle with chains, but you may be right. Thanks for the input.