Thank you I couldnt find anything about the blow by issue other videos would show smoke from the oil cap but no explanation. I will be doing a longer video in the future about my experience with this issue
The trick with the injectors seems obvious but ive never thought of that. You just saved me a huge amount of time the next time i have one of these. Thanks
I would suggest running a cylinder compression test of all 4 cylinders. Good rule of thumb from when I was in auto tech in high school was they should all be with in 15% of each other
I know its been a while since this upload, but was your repair successfull and got rid of all the postive crank pressure? I've been doing a lot of research and there seems to be one common issue, the Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve Orifice, it's integrated into the valve cover. It's GM part # 12641875. Apparently it gets clogged and causes the same p codes you were experiencing such as the mass air flow performance/out of test range. There's a couple of accounts also stating that it takes out cylinder 1. I'm currently going to open up a 1.5l on a equinox for a bit of postive crank pressure. On a side note this equinox had excessive vacuum on the oil fill cap and oil dip stick. That was due to a very clogged engine air filter. After figuring that out, it had a bit of postive pressure. No codes though, but I want to fix it before it causes damage. 90k on the odometer currently. And the only reason I want to fix it is because on my research many mechanics stated that this engine on idle should have a slight vacuum at the oil fill cap and dipstick.
So it solved the code how ever the engine had already lost compression on cylinder 1 after I repair it I ran a cylinder compression test and thats when I realized the rings on number 1 piston had already built up so much carbon and the piston was cracked. I spent the money replaced almost everything inside the motor other then the cam shafts and crank shaft, car ran great for about 500 miles then soon after then cylinders 3 snd 4 dropped on compression to around 90 psi at that point I got a good used engine and swapped it out. Its been a good car other then those issues, I just replaced the turbo this past weekend due to an oil leak so when you dig into it my suggestion would be make sure ur working in the cleanest environment you can, pay for all data. Next I would also say go over every part with a fine tooth comb so you don't miss any bad or failing parts
It is the same problem that my car now presents with the smoke in the oil cap, you only changed that piston, no. 1? In addition to the other changes that you mention in your video But from the engine you only replaced piston 1 and its rings and how did the other 3 remain and did you solve your problem? thank you
I replaced all 4 piston, rings. Along with new crank shaft bearings, all new gaskets, timing chain, tensioner and guides, had the head sent out to be cleaned, reservist , the valves were cleaned and had new valve stem seals, pretty much rebuild and with in 500 miles 3 and 4 started losing compression
If your having a carbon build up issue on just the valves you could try a cleaner. Theres a ton of different ones avaliable, sea foam anf royal purple are the 2 main ones I use
I'm having the same problem but now the car won't start until I change the battery distribution fuse block thing this will be the 7th time and I'm not sure if it the wiring to the ground ive changed the starter and alternator and all now still the seme issue
I can't say for sure but I feel like yours might be more of a ecm problem if it runs when you change out the fuse block ontop of the battery then stops working again. Do you have a video of what its doing or a scan tool to check for communication to the ecm. I have also heard of some thst had to be reprogrammed. I'm not trying to send you in thr wrong direction but its hard to trouble shoot without actually seeing the car and being able to do a few to determine the issue
Thank you and I also maybe thought about the ecm.! As well I don't have a video but I have a video of the ground and what it looks like behind the turbo bracket.! How would you reprogram it .!?
As i seen this video I'm so sad with my 2016 malibu, its like the same issue take it to gm they said i need a new engine that cost 10k add .....i dont know what to do.....sigh piston 1 misfire that the code, and same vibration going on but no crazy smoke i dont know, and the engine light is on sigh
I would preforme a cylinder compression test to verify that it is infact a loss of compression not a bad spark plug, coil, or fuel injector. I got a good used motor with around 40,000 miles for less then $2000 and installed it in less then a weekend
@@joshedgar2209 the spark plugs are new said so I don't know and it's crazy cause I don't even have a clue because the engine light came on did came off and then I drove it was okay going on my way back it was okay and then when I was parking all that happen so I'm just not getting it ....
I am about an hour south of Syracuse NY, when I first noticed ours was starting to go we noticed the average fuel economy dropped from 30-40mpg to 25 might. I did a tune up plugs air filter ect and didn't make a difference so I ran a compression test start with the basic and thats why I found cylinder 1 was 60 plus psi lower then the other 3
What am I missing here you said you bought the car with 40,000 miles but you changed the transmission fluid at 30.000 I'll listen to the video a third time maybe I'm missing something
We got the car with 40,000 and were told all the maintenance was done on time so the 1st transmission service would of been done at 30,000 and I did it every 30,000 so the 1st I did it was 60 then 90, and again at 120,000
Thank you so very very much. This is a major issue and you really opened the engine for us. Very clear to understand.
Thank you I couldnt find anything about the blow by issue other videos would show smoke from the oil cap but no explanation. I will be doing a longer video in the future about my experience with this issue
The trick with the injectors seems obvious but ive never thought of that. You just saved me a huge amount of time the next time i have one of these. Thanks
Im dealing with a 2016 1.5 same issue kiling one 1 plug smoking ,replace pcv valve ,still smoking ,lots of blow by
I would suggest running a cylinder compression test of all 4 cylinders. Good rule of thumb from when I was in auto tech in high school was they should all be with in 15% of each other
I know its been a while since this upload, but was your repair successfull and got rid of all the postive crank pressure? I've been doing a lot of research and there seems to be one common issue, the Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve Orifice, it's integrated into the valve cover. It's GM part # 12641875. Apparently it gets clogged and causes the same p codes you were experiencing such as the mass air flow performance/out of test range. There's a couple of accounts also stating that it takes out cylinder 1. I'm currently going to open up a 1.5l on a equinox for a bit of postive crank pressure.
On a side note this equinox had excessive vacuum on the oil fill cap and oil dip stick. That was due to a very clogged engine air filter. After figuring that out, it had a bit of postive pressure. No codes though, but I want to fix it before it causes damage. 90k on the odometer currently. And the only reason I want to fix it is because on my research many mechanics stated that this engine on idle should have a slight vacuum at the oil fill cap and dipstick.
I should add that the clogged pcv orifice also causes excessive blow-by.
So it solved the code how ever the engine had already lost compression on cylinder 1 after I repair it I ran a cylinder compression test and thats when I realized the rings on number 1 piston had already built up so much carbon and the piston was cracked. I spent the money replaced almost everything inside the motor other then the cam shafts and crank shaft, car ran great for about 500 miles then soon after then cylinders 3 snd 4 dropped on compression to around 90 psi at that point I got a good used engine and swapped it out. Its been a good car other then those issues, I just replaced the turbo this past weekend due to an oil leak so when you dig into it my suggestion would be make sure ur working in the cleanest environment you can, pay for all data. Next I would also say go over every part with a fine tooth comb so you don't miss any bad or failing parts
Thank you for the quick response. Does your new engine have any blow-by or does it have a slight vacuum on the oil fill cap?
@@09jklful i havnt really checked i will this weekend and let you knoe
Thank you once again.
It is the same problem that my car now presents with the smoke in the oil cap, you only changed that piston, no. 1?
In addition to the other changes that you mention in your video
But from the engine you only replaced piston 1 and its rings and how did the other 3 remain and did you solve your problem?
thank you
I replaced all 4 piston, rings. Along with new crank shaft bearings, all new gaskets, timing chain, tensioner and guides, had the head sent out to be cleaned, reservist , the valves were cleaned and had new valve stem seals, pretty much rebuild and with in 500 miles 3 and 4 started losing compression
What about carbon build up on the intake valves
If your having a carbon build up issue on just the valves you could try a cleaner. Theres a ton of different ones avaliable, sea foam anf royal purple are the 2 main ones I use
So you bought the car with 40k .so was it a rental.and how many miles are on it now.40k is a long time if the original owner didn't change the oil
It was a fleet rental from California we bought it from "reputable" used car dealer in NY in 2018 with 40,000 miles
I'm having the same problem but now the car won't start until I change the battery distribution fuse block thing this will be the 7th time and I'm not sure if it the wiring to the ground ive changed the starter and alternator and all now still the seme issue
The 7th time? So the car just won't start at all?
@@joshedgar2209 yes the 7th time and it only runs when ever I change it out don't know if it's that main ground or not
I can't say for sure but I feel like yours might be more of a ecm problem if it runs when you change out the fuse block ontop of the battery then stops working again. Do you have a video of what its doing or a scan tool to check for communication to the ecm. I have also heard of some thst had to be reprogrammed. I'm not trying to send you in thr wrong direction but its hard to trouble shoot without actually seeing the car and being able to do a few to determine the issue
Thank you and I also maybe thought about the ecm.! As well I don't have a video but I have a video of the ground and what it looks like behind the turbo bracket.! How would you reprogram it .!?
As i seen this video I'm so sad with my 2016 malibu, its like the same issue take it to gm they said i need a new engine that cost 10k add .....i dont know what to do.....sigh piston 1 misfire that the code, and same vibration going on but no crazy smoke i dont know, and the engine light is on sigh
I would preforme a cylinder compression test to verify that it is infact a loss of compression not a bad spark plug, coil, or fuel injector. I got a good used motor with around 40,000 miles for less then $2000 and installed it in less then a weekend
@@joshedgar2209 but where are you located?
@@joshedgar2209 the spark plugs are new said so I don't know and it's crazy cause I don't even have a clue because the engine light came on did came off and then I drove it was okay going on my way back it was okay and then when I was parking all that happen so I'm just not getting it ....
I am about an hour south of Syracuse NY, when I first noticed ours was starting to go we noticed the average fuel economy dropped from 30-40mpg to 25 might. I did a tune up plugs air filter ect and didn't make a difference so I ran a compression test start with the basic and thats why I found cylinder 1 was 60 plus psi lower then the other 3
@joshedgar2209 oh sigh I'm far from you, but do you think the engine is done ? And needed to be replaced?
What am I missing here you said you bought the car with 40,000 miles but you changed the transmission fluid at 30.000 I'll listen to the video a third time maybe I'm missing something
We got the car with 40,000 and were told all the maintenance was done on time so the 1st transmission service would of been done at 30,000 and I did it every 30,000 so the 1st I did it was 60 then 90, and again at 120,000