How to Patch an Old Brick Wall Scud Sand & Cement Render ready to skim plaster finish
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- čas přidán 11. 06. 2022
- How I scud coat an old red brick wall ready for the rendering with sand and cement then the top coat finishing plaster ready for paint or wall paper this is very detailed on the mix why I use what I use giving you my tips from my 20 years plastering experience to get you started the best way with the scud being the foundations and key for the next coats of cement and plaster, then I show how I coat and get that 4 to 1 sand and cement render straight and then how I finish it ready for patching in the new finishing coat plaster, I think these steps and words I give are easy to follow for the beginning plasterers and the home owners who are doing some diy plastering and rendering. working on old red brick what we call Belfast brick is one of the hardest backgrounds to go over it is high suction so the cement and the plaster will set up faster meaning you need to be ready you need to be fast this is a hard job so think about that before you start as it might be to much for some but at the same time if you tackle it little by little I am sure if your confident and follow these videos and steps trick hack words I give you can succeed to a really good finish and level. no doubt i might have missed some things so let me know in them comments ad also if there is anything you want to ask i am here and try to answer every question i get asked either in the comments or by a new video showing it in detail. #patch #plaster #brickwall
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The finishing and skimming of this video - czcams.com/video/-0HACgzEOwM/video.html
Who wants to see the skimming part of this patch ?
Why not get it on.
@@Offensiveword Cheer mate :)
Another cracking vlog mate
Thank you buddy put some effort into these ones but thanks for watching and commenting mate =)
Do we have to wait for the first layer to dry or can we move on to the second immediately?
I wait until 1st coat has set sometimes uts ok to put a little more on same day if it is drying real fast. Most times I leave it a full day
but hang on: high-suction might make it look 'cured' but isn't it just 'dried out' and cut short of proper time?
Scud coat mate holds the suction back but like I said might be best one day then 2nd day you have to judge it on the job
I've blocked up an old door in my house, I take it I can sand and cement it without a scud coat and key it ready for the plaster? Also always great to see another NI youtuber. Cheers
Yes mate I take it you used block ? we do have an old door way patch up on the channel where it is done in plaster board and then bonded out and skimmed might be worth a watch for helping you patch it in also
@@macplastering Yea I used block on it but seen so many different videos with different hard wall plasters etc I'd be comfortable enough working with sand and cement on it and if that's the case i'll give it a go. I did plaster the utility room and it looks well and smooth but lucky there's no windows or light because jesus it has more wave in it than the sea! The door should be easier! 😅 Cheers Buddy
Yes like in this video I use the existing wall to great advantage it is your guide pull up and a few across to double check cut back then skim in a day or two
Hmm wonder iff u can hurl the bonding on like that ? I got a job like this next week
I would say yes but might need some sand in it for weight and grip again I am nit sure i would recommend bonding on brick like these but if no damp it should be ok but hard wall might be better
@@macplastering I’m probably gunna sbr the wall wish some powder in like a bit of a slurry and use 50/50 quick dry bonding/hardwall then skim it same day
@@Offensiveword Should be 100% if issues arent damp that should work sweet mate and get you away
Hi, is this the same for a stone wall that has lime mortar? Thanks.
Some will say use lime but i have done it simlar this way as you can see on the channel to great effect
Hi mate want the mix for your scud coat mate this video will come used few weeks for me thanks
czcams.com/video/PxfawvJqCck/video.html
Those cornices are fragile. I’ve got a big one around a room and I’m trying to preserve it as it’s one of the last original features. It’s thick in paint and I tried stripping it but chunks just come away. It’s like the plaster just breaks down and loses all its strength over time.
Yea man hard to keep for sure paint defo holding it togeather
use cornice adhesive to re-build it: the good thing about CH is that as it sets you can sculpt it for quite a while...like half an hr
In my bathroom a piece of old plaster have fallen off the wall so I need to patch it so could you give me some advice on the best way to do it. The patch is 18"x18" and 30mm thick.
I would do it same as this is the wall brick block or plasterboard
@@macplastering It's brick like in the video. Can I fill it to 30mm in one go or should I do it in stages.
@@hardworker8030 i would do a scud coat 1 day then float out and cut back next day and skim 3rd day mate all the mixes ive used can be found on the channel if you need a refresher
@@macplastering Can you recommend a different way without the scud coat because the materials you used will be to expensive just for a small patch.
@@hardworker8030 pva or just wet it down some with clean water sbr is fail safe pva is good to but if small if you damp it down after taking away all dust should be ok mate
Hi mac, i have a external wall i have to render, iv knocked of old render which was murder, its red brick and very pourus and uneven, what's the best way tackle this m8 thks
Possibly a scud coat mate have my mix and how i apply it on the channel think its call slurry/scud coat but you could possibly just sbr and go depends in how bad it is and if you need to be clean for ground and windows ect i did a video a few months back loads of details on coating over brick mate
@@macplastering thks mac, its about 5m by 4m, if i scud it is still ok to scratch then top coat, thks
Very pourus red brick, it was murder putting the beads on i had to stick them on in the end
Yea sometimes hard to get beads on especially when un even glad your getting on well with it mate =)
Hi I recently had my house rendered inside it’s a 100+ year old brick house. The man that did it is an old school Irish renderer. He did a 1 to 1 scud coat, then a 4 to 1 coat with sbr and waterproofer and final was 5 to 1 without additives.
The problem is people are now telling me I’m going to have problems with damp and cracking in my house because he should have used lime render is this correct?
I watched an old video i mean really old of a guy doing one of these houses up and they where still damp back then. to me lime needs to dry from the inside out meaning you need to heat it to dry it so any damp will get in and its up to you to heat and dry it going by a survey on a large house we done ( czcams.com/video/VVqZOm8pluA/video.html ) the 3 guys said it should be done inside and outside with lime would cost a massive amount they said if doing lime no point just doing one need to do both inside walls and outside , they claim the idea is you dry it from inside out .... so with cement render it is supposed to stop water coming in but some claim i gets in as a gas then turn to a liquid agin, but then why cant we just dry that the same way as lime? from the inside out sure if it can get in as gas wont it dry back the same way ? my question to you in how has the wall been? again he has used different mixes to my own .. be great to hear your findings? so you just put sand and cement on no skim coat?
@@macplastering thanks for the reply mate. After he done the scud, 1st and 2nd coat he then skimmed everting with multi finish and 2 or 3 coats paint. It’s been approximately 15 months since he completed work and no issues to report at the moment.
Most of the walls he rendered then plastered I have a radiator on them which should help with drying.
I did originally ask him to just dot and dab all walls and he told me it’s a waste of money and should just render and skim. I’m actually worried that I will have damp problems at some stage and how on earth am I going to hack all this solid render off and change it not possible at all.
@@londonengland7096 it is still possible to remove the render it is just hard work again if no problems after so long i think you should be good Im not sure dot and dab would been much better in all honesty , you would have had to use foil back boards if worried about damp and stuck plus pinned in. thing is if damp is getting in then you must stop it from the source 1st be it a leak or condensation, again if not problems you should be grand just keep the air flow going and heat the house when cold out open window when cooking and showering ect
also have been to peoples houses that had lime and hatted it both looks and it been damp , here is very wet climate like raining 85% the year so lime has no hope to dry out in my opinions if your in london it might be a little better weather but no 100% sure
@@macplastering mate I really appreciate your replies. It’s so hard to make decisions because no one sings off the same hymn sheet. I’ll have to pray to god that nothing goes wrong, I’ve spent so much money and so many sleepless nights and nowhere near finished on this house