Great video. Some of these wannabe mechanic replies are just as bad as a manicurist telling you that you just can't cut your own nails, and no matter how you're doing it, it's all wrong...
Need to add here that a number of not so great things are happening in case someone is watching and trying to learn what to do: - Just about everyone highly encourages having rotors resurfaced with every pad change at minimum, if not, then replace the rotors. Rotors are seriously not that expensive anyway. -A bunch of the parts should be cleaned / lubricated and absolutely none of that is happening here. -A set of those for example would be the slide pins that allow the caliper to move back and forth freely. It is imperative that those are clean and well lubricated with the proper grease to allow for that movement. If not your brake performance can be dangerously reduced and you can cause damage. If you're going to do the job, do it properly. Don't cut corners with the brakes.
We have a 2013 Elantra coupe and the rear disc brake are different somewhat. The piston has a flat face surface, They do not have drum rotors for the hand brake/emergency brake. Just like front rotors but with a cable for the handbrake.
Niles Smith yeah, dont worry. never a need to drain anything. just push like you see in the video and always buy medium brake pads , so you dont wear out the rooter
Thanks for posting this video. I own the same type rear braking system Hyandai Elantra 2010. Where did u buy your pads (if you can give me brand and reference) as I can not find them anywhere, I bought the bendix CT3 type modelnumber D813CT, and they do not fit, they are supposed to be on my car ?! thanks for your help.
Went to buy rear brake pads for my base model 2010 Elantra, There are two depending on manufacturing date of the car, before or after March 23rd, 2010, I think. How do I find this info ? Guy at the auto parts store said open the driver's door and it should be there but the only thing there is the VIN.
Anti seize or disc break quiet should be used on metal components of the pad but not the surface of the pad. Silicone grease should be applied to both pins that hold the caliper to the bracket that holds the pads. Grease, anti seize and break quite will prevent squeaking breaks. ** learnt from experience, bought brand new elantra 2016, once it hit 20k KM breaks started squeaking while driving. Pulled everything apart and used CRC disk break quiet and solved the noise!**
I bought rear brake pads for my elantra 2013 GL my self for the first time and they look smaller than I imagined. They are around 10 cm long (around 5 inch). Is it normal ?
Def not a professional brake service. No grease anywhere. (should be applied to the sliding points and pins). Didn't clean the caliper slider pins, rotors weren't resurfaced (they look heat scored worn) or replaced, pads go into the sliders easily by keeping pads parallel to the rotor when installing. Always torque caliper bolts to prevent backing out under high temps and use. Never cheap on brakes or service, your life depends on it. Put the correct quality materials on it. Economy pads are dangerous. If your car was made with ceramic pads...put them on every time! They last longer, stop faster, and do not build as much heat as cheaper pads thus other components stay cooler reducing damage in the long term. For every grade less you install your stopping distance increases by 100-200 feet at 60mph. That's the difference between running a kid over or not!
Might want to add...never hang a caliper by a flex line looking for a busted line...also when pushing piston of caliper back in never push old fluid back into the system. With modern anti lock systems the smallest particle can cause issues in the system. Best to open bleeder push piston close bleeder add new fluid...Just adding to your fine comments an this shade tree video.
Northern areas where it stays cold most of the year and they're constantly salting the roads, if you dont wash the undercarriage of your car frequently the chassis will rust quickly.
well if you go to the mechanic - they might change your brakes for around $120 but they will try to convince you that you need to change your brake fluid and filters and a bunch of other things you dont need, so in the end you will come out with a $1,200 bill
Think about why should you bleed ur breaks in the first place. You don’t need to if you follow this video. Usually mechanics will tell you - that you need to change everything that is 1 day old just to get more money from you. Did you know - if your break fluid is not liking on anything like that - there is no reason to change it ever?
@@TechandDesign No air cldve gotten in the line so I assumed it wasnt necessary but wanted to double check that u didnt bleed em once u had the tire on or anything. I really appreciate the info. Thank u
LOL, lame, you didn't clean the calipers or caliper brackets of break dust or rust before inserting the new pad clips. Nor did you apply break grease to any areas where there is metal to metal contact!
He forgot to show the part where the calipers won't fit on anymore, because of the wider new pads, so you have to get a C-clamp to squish the piston and open up the caliper.
one additional comment. When changing brake pads on your car, a lot of new cars have gone to this screw type model for compressing the pads towards the wheel. So if you try and use a C-Clamp to push in the piston/plunger you’ll brake your C-Clamp before it moves. You can rent the special tool to screw in the piston/plunger at the local auto store for free. The right tool takes about 30 seconds and the piston/plunger is pushed back allowing you to put everything back together and around the new brake pads once again. Here’s what the piston/plunger could look like:
The disclaimer at the end says, "by utilizing these ideas in an attempt to enhance national security" lol that's just crazy to have on a brake pad tutorial.
Man there sure are a lot of mechanics on here posting comments instead of videos on the "proper" way to change brakes... AC maybe next vid inform the watchers that you are giving the basics of whatever mechanics you are performing unless you go into great detail. For any watcher that typed in what I did "how to change brake pads" you performed what was requested.. For all of the professionals out there stop being a$$heads and inform the person on what can be done differently to teach us the how to and the best practice at the same time... None of you started out knowing what you know now....
Honestly, those same mechanics are the ones charging 200 bucks for brake pad change, with none of the features they inform us about will ever be done by them.
2010 elantra is about the same a little more difficult brake line runs vertical not up and down so its hard to get the pad put without disconnecting the brake line
+Yves Lessard for anyone reading this, NEVER EVER PUT GREASE ON YOUR BRAKES or ROTOS. this is the second person who mentions grease when changing brake pads, . And I really dont know why you people want to kill yourselfs
Yves Lessard is right and you're not following correct protocol for the maintenance of automotive brake systems. I appreciate the video, but you got some learning to do. Check out Eric the Car Guy's videos.
Ride2Survive Brakes are super easy on most cars these days, all disc is a cakewalk. Getting 70K on a new car today is average, nothing exceptional. The proper match between friction material and rotor quality will see you easily get that mileage again. It doesn't mean you should do a half-assed job like this though, a proper job will last you another 70K. I do brake clinics all the time for shops who's mechanics have done brakes for decades, about 8 out of 10 mechanics will take short cuts that reduce life, cause noise and result return customers who then cost the shop money because it wasn't done properly to begin with. At $96+/hr for hoist time, a return job to fix mistakes is an expensive way to run a business. I've seen a thousand backyard hacks throw pads in a car and think they know what they are doing, most of the time it's not worth explaining their mistakes, they will never see the value of doing it right the first time.
Great video.
Some of these wannabe mechanic replies are just as bad as a manicurist telling you that you just can't cut your own nails, and no matter how you're doing it, it's all wrong...
You got it.
I just watched your vid and then changed the pads, it was just as easy. It took 30 min. Thank you for simple no-nonsense instructions.
no problem. I know others like to use a bunch of tools that you don’t actually need to do such a simple job
I needed to put new pads on my 2003 Hyundai Elantra and this video was super helpful. Thanks!
👍🏻
Thank you for this quick and dirty tutorial. It was a great help!
Thanks for posting this! Helps a lot.
Need to add here that a number of not so great things are happening in case someone is watching and trying to learn what to do:
- Just about everyone highly encourages having rotors resurfaced with every pad change at minimum, if not, then replace the rotors. Rotors are seriously not that expensive anyway.
-A bunch of the parts should be cleaned / lubricated and absolutely none of that is happening here.
-A set of those for example would be the slide pins that allow the caliper to move back and forth freely. It is imperative that those are clean and well lubricated with the proper grease to allow for that movement. If not your brake performance can be dangerously reduced and you can cause damage.
If you're going to do the job, do it properly. Don't cut corners with the brakes.
Why are you watching this video ?
Christopher Whitten Agreed. I was about to say the same
glad someone said it
@@TechandDesign so was his comment rite or wrong?? Lol I'm about 2 do my wifes brakes on her car
BS
Some people will also complain ur wiping ur own ass wrong lol
Thanks for helpfull video
We have a 2013 Elantra coupe and the rear disc brake are different somewhat. The piston has a flat face surface, They do not have drum rotors for the hand brake/emergency brake. Just like front rotors but with a cable for the handbrake.
Thanks for posting! Just got brake pads and was worried I would need to drain the brake fluids
Niles Smith yeah, dont worry. never a need to drain anything. just push like you see in the video and always buy medium brake pads , so you dont wear out the rooter
Thx I will be attempting this today lol
Thanks for posting this video. I own the same type rear braking system Hyandai Elantra 2010. Where did u buy your pads (if you can give me brand and reference) as I can not find them anywhere, I bought the bendix CT3 type modelnumber D813CT, and they do not fit, they are supposed to be on my car ?! thanks for your help.
Went to buy rear brake pads for my base model 2010 Elantra, There are two depending on manufacturing date of the car, before or after March 23rd, 2010, I think. How do I find this info ? Guy at the auto parts store said open the driver's door and it should be there but the only thing there is the VIN.
what's size wrench did you use for the front bolt?
Thank for this tutorial
Great Video thanks !!!
Is it the same for back brakes ?
why no grease? why put new pads and disc that looked like they were over heated.
Anti seize or disc break quiet should be used on metal components of the pad but not the surface of the pad. Silicone grease should be applied to both pins that hold the caliper to the bracket that holds the pads. Grease, anti seize and break quite will prevent squeaking breaks.
** learnt from experience, bought brand new elantra 2016, once it hit 20k KM breaks started squeaking while driving. Pulled everything apart and used CRC disk break quiet and solved the noise!**
Never had that problem - but thanks for the tip
no
Wow it’s really that easy
I bought rear brake pads for my elantra 2013 GL my self for the first time and they look smaller than I imagined. They are around 10 cm long (around 5 inch). Is it normal ?
OK, so which side does the clip go on? You quickly ran through it and didn’t show us any of the parts or how to put them in so now I’m more confused
Def not a professional brake service. No grease anywhere. (should be applied to the sliding points and pins). Didn't clean the caliper slider pins, rotors weren't resurfaced (they look heat scored worn) or replaced, pads go into the sliders easily by keeping pads parallel to the rotor when installing. Always torque caliper bolts to prevent backing out under high temps and use. Never cheap on brakes or service, your life depends on it. Put the correct quality materials on it. Economy pads are dangerous. If your car was made with ceramic pads...put them on every time! They last longer, stop faster, and do not build as much heat as cheaper pads thus other components stay cooler reducing damage in the long term. For every grade less you install your stopping distance increases by 100-200 feet at 60mph. That's the difference between running a kid over or not!
Fuck that kid, beater car economy parts.
Might want to add...never hang a caliper by a flex line looking for a busted line...also when pushing piston of caliper back in never push old fluid back into the system. With modern anti lock systems the smallest particle can cause issues in the system. Best to open bleeder push piston close bleeder add new fluid...Just adding to your fine comments an this shade tree video.
now this is the same set up for all hyundai 2010-2013??
Fairly similar
can you tell me how to get the rotor off please?more or less how to release the ebrake
***** sure, just look in my channel for the video
acguevara dddrff d
There is quite a lot of rust. Wouldn't it have been better to first clean contact parts with a wire brush?
Did they find this car underwater? That is a lot of rust.
Lol, was thinking the same. Must be a northern car. I drive a 28 year old Lexus. 100% California car. The underbody is still pristine.
Northern areas where it stays cold most of the year and they're constantly salting the roads, if you dont wash the undercarriage of your car frequently the chassis will rust quickly.
Midwest I believe
Thanks for sharing ., I’m not Gonna spend more than 100 bucks in the mechanic shop
well if you go to the mechanic - they might change your brakes for around $120 but they will try to convince you that you need to change your brake fluid and filters and a bunch of other things you dont need, so in the end you will come out with a $1,200 bill
So doing it this way u dont have to bleed ur breaks??? And if not y not???
Think about why should you bleed ur breaks in the first place. You don’t need to if you follow this video. Usually mechanics will tell you - that you need to change everything that is 1 day old just to get more money from you. Did you know - if your break fluid is not liking on anything like that - there is no reason to change it ever?
@@TechandDesign No air cldve gotten in the line so I assumed it wasnt necessary but wanted to double check that u didnt bleed em once u had the tire on or anything. I really appreciate the info. Thank u
Glad to help out.
You did not take the pins out and clean and lube them up ... WHY ????
+mrchuck2364 No need
No wants to change the rear rotors because you need to disconnect rear control arms 😂
that's not what the rear calipers look like on a 2012 Hyundai Elantra. fyi...you screw them back down.
LOL, lame, you didn't clean the calipers or caliper brackets of break dust or rust before inserting the new pad clips. Nor did you apply break grease to any areas where there is metal to metal contact!
He forgot to show the part where the calipers won't fit on anymore, because of the wider new pads, so you have to get a C-clamp to squish the piston and open up the caliper.
You actually do see
he has strong hands he did it without the tool at the end and he did it with a screw driver pushing against the old pad in the beginning
one additional comment. When changing brake pads on your car, a lot of new cars have gone to this screw type model for compressing the pads towards the wheel. So if you try and use a C-Clamp to push in the piston/plunger you’ll brake your C-Clamp before it moves. You can rent the special tool to screw in the piston/plunger at the local auto store for free. The right tool takes about 30 seconds and the piston/plunger is pushed back allowing you to put everything back together and around the new brake pads once again. Here’s what the piston/plunger could look like:
that is only when the emergency brake is built into the caliper
How many hands does this guy have? I seen 3.
a lot more than just 3
u need to lube the slider
Why?
havent seen it necessary in any of the cars we have done. no squealing
@@allensnyder348 slider never cause the squealing
The disclaimer at the end says, "by utilizing these ideas in an attempt to enhance national security" lol that's just crazy to have on a brake pad tutorial.
🇺🇸
Man there sure are a lot of mechanics on here posting comments instead of videos on the "proper" way to change brakes... AC maybe next vid inform the watchers that you are giving the basics of whatever mechanics you are performing unless you go into great detail. For any watcher that typed in what I did "how to change brake pads" you performed what was requested.. For all of the professionals out there stop being a$$heads and inform the person on what can be done differently to teach us the how to and the best practice at the same time... None of you started out knowing what you know now....
I think that is what they are doing?
Honestly, those same mechanics are the ones charging 200 bucks for brake pad change, with none of the features they inform us about will ever be done by them.
2010 elantra is about the same a little more difficult brake line runs vertical not up and down so its hard to get the pad put without disconnecting the brake line
come on u still a rookie u didn't use grease u make us mechanics look bad
The pad aint the only thing you got to change
Ever heard about grease ????
+Yves Lessard for anyone reading this, NEVER EVER PUT GREASE ON YOUR BRAKES or ROTOS. this is the second person who mentions grease when changing brake pads, . And I really dont know why you people want to kill yourselfs
Yves Lessard is right and you're not following correct protocol for the maintenance of automotive brake systems. I appreciate the video, but you got some learning to do. Check out Eric the Car Guy's videos.
On the slide pins you idiot
Well that'll last a week.
2 years so far
acguevara Sure they have! I'll believe ya!
Dude im at 70k on the original brake padsand just now changing them! This is a really low maintenance car, super easy to work on
Ride2Survive
Brakes are super easy on most cars these days, all disc is a cakewalk. Getting 70K on a new car today is average, nothing exceptional. The proper match between friction material and rotor quality will see you easily get that mileage again. It doesn't mean you should do a half-assed job like this though, a proper job will last you another 70K.
I do brake clinics all the time for shops who's mechanics have done brakes for decades, about 8 out of 10 mechanics will take short cuts that reduce life, cause noise and result return customers who then cost the shop money because it wasn't done properly to begin with. At $96+/hr for hoist time, a return job to fix mistakes is an expensive way to run a business.
I've seen a thousand backyard hacks throw pads in a car and think they know what they are doing, most of the time it's not worth explaining their mistakes, they will never see the value of doing it right the first time.
@@oz_medias most back yard hack is better than the average mechanic in the USA
fjb
I love gingers
+Ron Soldano me too
Yay, im a ginger