Full disclosure, Vera Forma Leatherworks is run by a buddy of mine. He's the guy who taught me to leather work. This is NOT a paid promotion, but I should have mentioned that in the video!
Like I said in another video. Just recently found you on CZcams and I’m going through some of you older videos. I strictly stick with CZcams and avoid the others. You said the information in this video may not be “ground breaking.” But, it is definitely helpful. We all need to refresh our leather crafting processes. Thank you. 😊 The guy who said he has become a serial killer over the music, now that is funny 😅. When I hear technique used in leather crafting, even if I use them or not, it just reaffirms that I am in a craft that enjoy and love. 😎👍
Amazing bro!! Thank you very much for your tips, specially for the sand paper, I only use from 120 to 1000, but now I understood I must sand more for a perfect finish
Thank you!! 1000 is pretty good already! Starts getting really crazy at 3000, 4000, 8000. I'll do a video but if you go look at Ikki leather on instagram, he has a full how to on making glass edges in his saved stories
Hey Bro, Nice to see you finished up the shop, dried up from the flood and are back at it making more videos!! look forward to seeing your leatherwork and awesome photography on IG ✌
Damn! Sorry I guess that would have been a good thing to add to the video! If you feel the leather, you can feel it getting smoother with each grit until you start getting to the really fine ones. You don't need to spend all day on each grit but just make sure you're sanding with each one about the same amount of time. It's really something you just get a feel for and you can't really screw it up... You can always go back up a few grits and start there if you need to. Hope that helps and sorry for leaving out that info!
I make my own leather balm, I used to make my own beard balm, and they have the same ingredients! lol, I was so stoked to learn that. Good stuff man, new to the channel, like it a lot
Thanks a lot Tim👌👍🏽... Have 2000 & 3000 grit papers but for Sharpening knives... Will try. Have made a lot of DIY leather conditioning cream with beeswax, neatsfoot oil, cocoa butter,shea butter, carnouba wax & EV olive oil...but thoroughly applied after dyeing and keeping it for atleast 12 hours... After all work finished, will just give a buff with horse hair brush... Its helping leather, water repellant too.. 👍🏽
Hey Tim. I learned (from an CZcams cobbler, Bedo's) that Bickmore Bick 4 is a great moisturizer. I do the same thing you do. Put it on lightly, wait a couple of minutes and then horse hair brush it. Sometimes I use some sheepskin (stapled to a piece of wood) to go over the surface also. Thanks for the tips.
@@BlackFlagLeatherGoods Over the years, several 'products' have been suggested for finishing and conditioning. Neastfoot oil when I dye my own leather. Saphir products (very expensive) Bickmore and of course, Fiebings. I use the Bick 4 on my Redwings also. Just to moisturize them. Bickmore products readily available on Amazon.
Hmm these are great tips! I'm glad I already am doing all three, but i think could put more effort into the last tip. I usually just wipe it down with a leather conditioner wipe to add a bit of conditioning and to clean it up a touch.
I am recently disabled and trying to adjust to the massive lifestyle and ability shift. I say this to clarify my approach to leatherworking. I am trying to find a balance where getting into the hobby doesn't break the bank while still getting nice gear that makes the craft maximally enjoyable (and hopefully profitable or at least self sustaining.) To that end, is there anything you would recommend?
I keep meaning to get a strop for my knives. I just purchased the Work Sharp Benchstone knife sharpener. But a strop would help between actual sharpening. Was going to test it out, but I can already hear you saying I should do a reel out of it haha so planning it out before I sharpen my knives. Also all these videos are making me want to try some leather work this year.
Haha dude! Record everything. Everything is content. You go for a walk, you record it. That town you're in is an EDCer's dream! You're going to crush it on here!
Watching this while doing my first cuts on scrap leather. Don't have any stitching stuff, trying to baby step things. I'll do this for a few days, maybe an hour a day. Then try a simple first project next week.
I'm excited for you! Google no stitch wallets. I've seen a few interesting ones out there that are just folded together. They actually look pretty cool. Edit: looks like most of them use rivets or snaps but I swear I've seen one that is just folded.
@@BlackFlagLeatherGoods I've watched a few that do that. No biggie, I need to find some leather I guess the right weight to make stuff anyways. These scraps are great at 5 bucks a bag, but seem a little too light for much.
Great video man, great to have you back! I would go as far to say never try to cut through the leather the first time. The more passes you take with a sharp stropped knife, the less it will distort and the straighter your cut will be. Cheers brother!
Awesome vid man, i have a question that i hope you can answer in a video or a reply and thats on what to do if you run out of thread mid saddle stitch. Because that has happened and im stumped on how to continue the thread the right way. Appreciate it man, take care!
I'm happy to hear you ask that! I have a wicked solution that I read about in one of Al Stohlman's books and I'm planning a video around it. Send me a message using the contact form on my website or instagram though if you need it right away and I'll send you a pic with the instructions.
If you haven't yet can you talk just about Bevelers and which weights to use them on and which ones you like best and just everything about it so far im having the most trouble with'em lol... Arghhh... LOL .. but I'm determined to get it i think my leather is prob to thin i have 1 to 2 oz and 3 to 4oz and the heaviest i'll be using is 7 to 8oz... So if you could help a girl out, it would be greatly appreciated!
To add to your first point, deep cuts have a higher chance of jumping which can either damage your project, dull your blade by hitting the straight edge, or hit your hand
I usually go from 220 to 1200 grit. I've tried going up from there and honestly found it to be a waste of time for me. I do a few extra steps when burnishing tho. start with a wood slicker and end with cotton cloth with tokonole then the same with beeswax. I've found that if I go nuts with the sandpaper before this it doesn't make much difference if I end with 1200 or 6000
Thanks for sharing! I love this. It really shows that you kind of have to develop a system that works for you, based on what you learn from others. Nobody's process is the same. I haven't tried it but I've heard melting beeswax with carnuba wax and using that for edges gets a really nice shine.
@@BlackFlagLeatherGoods I couldn't agree more. The end result is what matters. How you get there is gonna be different for everyone. What I've found is that beeswax last step gives a nice shine and protects the edge a bit. Never tried carnuba wax. But in order to get that shine with the beeswax I try to create as much friction heat as I can. I rub it on quickly. Then I slick it really fast. Then I hit it with denim. All with a really fast back and forth motion. Seems to be the only way to get it to melt properly and create that shine. The wax is like an add on for the tokonole. Looks good without it (I love tokonole). But the wax really sets it off. But like you said, and I couldn't agree more. No one's process is the same and you gotta find what works best for you. There is so much info out there now. You just gotta find your process
agree with everything except the sanding. honestly if you are doing any sort of business with your leatherwork, the super glass fancy edges just dont matter. customers dont care, and the edge will never hold that super shiny burnish for very long with normal use. excessive sanding is not worth it and just doesnt matter. shaping the edges with a rough grit like 60 or 80, and then sanding with a medium grit like 120 or 150 is all you need. then burnish like normal to give a nice looking edge that is burnished. If its just a hobby, then, yeah sand away, get that mirror edge, but not for a leather business. in a business money matters, and you dont make money by spending hours sanding edges. ANY fulltime professional leather crafter will tell you the same.
Hey thanks for watching! I disagree that any full timer would tell me the same. I do know a few full time leather crafters who spend the time putting the shiny edge on some of their products. Definitely not all of them. You're right, though, it does take forever to do and probably would not be feasible for a larger operation. Generally I see these edges going on shell cordovan products which are easier to get that glass edge on and sell at a premium price anyway. I like to sand up to around 800-1000 grit or so and put a fairly crisp (but not glass) edge on it. It takes a bit more time but not too much more. Ultimately it comes down to the maker's preference. That's the beauty of this craft though. We can disagree and do things differently and it sets us all apart.
Full disclosure, Vera Forma Leatherworks is run by a buddy of mine. He's the guy who taught me to leather work. This is NOT a paid promotion, but I should have mentioned that in the video!
Love Vera Forma! Amazing balm
Right?! It's awesome stuff!
Sooo much so!
@Stacie Maheurin 🙏 appreciate the @Stacie Maheurin
Thanks helps me out
Im a newborn leather worker. These tips tell me the importance of enjoying the process. And DONT SKIP THE DETAILS! Appreciate you!
Love the back ground
Thank you!
Like I said in another video. Just recently found you on CZcams and I’m going through some of you older videos. I strictly stick with CZcams and avoid the others. You said the information in this video may not be “ground breaking.” But, it is definitely helpful. We all need to refresh our leather crafting processes. Thank you. 😊 The guy who said he has become a serial killer over the music, now that is funny 😅. When I hear technique used in leather crafting, even if I use them or not, it just reaffirms that I am in a craft that enjoy and love. 😎👍
Amazing bro!! Thank you very much for your tips, specially for the sand paper, I only use from 120 to 1000, but now I understood I must sand more for a perfect finish
Thank you!! 1000 is pretty good already! Starts getting really crazy at 3000, 4000, 8000. I'll do a video but if you go look at Ikki leather on instagram, he has a full how to on making glass edges in his saved stories
Thanks for pointing out some really simple things that highlight the 'it's the little things" here and there that can push ones work forward. 👍
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching!
Great thanks
Hey Bro, Nice to see you finished up the shop, dried up from the flood and are back at it making more videos!! look forward to seeing your leatherwork and awesome photography on IG ✌
Thank you, buddy! Luckily the flood didn't get me. Just the supply shortages did. I was a lucky one. I appreciate it man. Great to be back.
Another great video! Cheers!
Thanks so much, Stacie! I appreciate it!
Great video, man! Awesome advice!
Thank you! I appreciate it!
How do you know when to change grits? Can't wait for the "Glass Edge" video!
Damn! Sorry I guess that would have been a good thing to add to the video!
If you feel the leather, you can feel it getting smoother with each grit until you start getting to the really fine ones. You don't need to spend all day on each grit but just make sure you're sanding with each one about the same amount of time. It's really something you just get a feel for and you can't really screw it up... You can always go back up a few grits and start there if you need to.
Hope that helps and sorry for leaving out that info!
I make my own leather balm, I used to make my own beard balm, and they have the same ingredients! lol, I was so stoked to learn that. Good stuff man, new to the channel, like it a lot
Hey thanks dude! And thanks for watching!
Thanks a lot Tim👌👍🏽... Have 2000 & 3000 grit papers but for Sharpening knives... Will try.
Have made a lot of DIY leather conditioning cream with beeswax, neatsfoot oil, cocoa butter,shea butter, carnouba wax & EV olive oil...but thoroughly applied after dyeing and keeping it for atleast 12 hours... After all work finished, will just give a buff with horse hair brush... Its helping leather, water repellant too.. 👍🏽
Oh I like that you add carnuba!
@@BlackFlagLeatherGoods for shining & water repellance 👌
Hey Tim. I learned (from an CZcams cobbler, Bedo's) that Bickmore Bick 4 is a great moisturizer. I do the same thing you do. Put it on lightly, wait a couple of minutes and then horse hair brush it. Sometimes I use some sheepskin (stapled to a piece of wood) to go over the surface also. Thanks for the tips.
Oh! I've never heard of that one! I'll take a look! Thanks for the info and for watching!
@@BlackFlagLeatherGoods Over the years, several 'products' have been suggested for finishing and conditioning. Neastfoot oil when I dye my own leather. Saphir products (very expensive) Bickmore and of course, Fiebings. I use the Bick 4 on my Redwings also. Just to moisturize them. Bickmore products readily available on Amazon.
Amen baby smooth starts at 600 but you have to start low and work up. So wood and leather share this. Moisturizing great tips as always nice
I sometimes start at 180 grits to 7000 😁🤣
Hell yes! That's why your work is so killer!
Hmm these are great tips! I'm glad I already am doing all three, but i think could put more effort into the last tip. I usually just wipe it down with a leather conditioner wipe to add a bit of conditioning and to clean it up a touch.
I am recently disabled and trying to adjust to the massive lifestyle and ability shift. I say this to clarify my approach to leatherworking. I am trying to find a balance where getting into the hobby doesn't break the bank while still getting nice gear that makes the craft maximally enjoyable (and hopefully profitable or at least self sustaining.) To that end, is there anything you would recommend?
Am also trying to doing leather craft. I think you helped me if possible 😊😊
Thanks🙏
No, thank YOU!
I come from woodworking, so sanding is in my blood. I love burnishing edges until they're as smooth as glass. I do the same with my wood projects.
I keep meaning to get a strop for my knives. I just purchased the Work Sharp Benchstone knife sharpener. But a strop would help between actual sharpening.
Was going to test it out, but I can already hear you saying I should do a reel out of it haha so planning it out before I sharpen my knives. Also all these videos are making me want to try some leather work this year.
Haha dude! Record everything. Everything is content. You go for a walk, you record it. That town you're in is an EDCer's dream! You're going to crush it on here!
@@BlackFlagLeatherGoods learning to make it a habit haha.
So I use mink oil. How does that compare to a balm? And do you use resolene in any instances? Thanks.
Watching this while doing my first cuts on scrap leather. Don't have any stitching stuff, trying to baby step things. I'll do this for a few days, maybe an hour a day. Then try a simple first project next week.
I'm excited for you! Google no stitch wallets. I've seen a few interesting ones out there that are just folded together. They actually look pretty cool.
Edit: looks like most of them use rivets or snaps but I swear I've seen one that is just folded.
@@BlackFlagLeatherGoods I've watched a few that do that. No biggie, I need to find some leather I guess the right weight to make stuff anyways. These scraps are great at 5 bucks a bag, but seem a little too light for much.
All these three tips are really really helpful to leathercrafters especially for beginners like me. Thank you!
Thanks, Michael! I'm glad you liked them! Thanks for watching!
Does the leather balm help make it water proof/resistant?
Great video man, great to have you back!
I would go as far to say never try to cut through the leather the first time. The more passes you take with a sharp stropped knife, the less it will distort and the straighter your cut will be.
Cheers brother!
Thanks, man! I'm glad I'm not the only one! I pretty much always do multiple passes!
Awesome vid man, i have a question that i hope you can answer in a video or a reply and thats on what to do if you run out of thread mid saddle stitch. Because that has happened and im stumped on how to continue the thread the right way. Appreciate it man, take care!
I'm happy to hear you ask that! I have a wicked solution that I read about in one of Al Stohlman's books and I'm planning a video around it. Send me a message using the contact form on my website or instagram though if you need it right away and I'll send you a pic with the instructions.
If you haven't yet can you talk just about Bevelers and which weights to use them on and which ones you like best and just everything about it so far im having the most trouble with'em lol... Arghhh... LOL .. but I'm determined to get it i think my leather is prob to thin i have 1 to 2 oz and 3 to 4oz and the heaviest i'll be using is 7 to 8oz... So if you could help a girl out, it would be greatly appreciated!
I haven't yet gone over these but I can definitely add it to my list!
@@BlackFlagLeatherGoods Awesome.. Thank you!
To add to your first point, deep cuts have a higher chance of jumping which can either damage your project, dull your blade by hitting the straight edge, or hit your hand
Would you use that balm on your leather shoes too?
I do, actually! I have a pair of Red Wing boots I use it on.
I usually go from 220 to 1200 grit. I've tried going up from there and honestly found it to be a waste of time for me. I do a few extra steps when burnishing tho. start with a wood slicker and end with cotton cloth with tokonole then the same with beeswax. I've found that if I go nuts with the sandpaper before this it doesn't make much difference if I end with 1200 or 6000
Thanks for sharing! I love this. It really shows that you kind of have to develop a system that works for you, based on what you learn from others. Nobody's process is the same.
I haven't tried it but I've heard melting beeswax with carnuba wax and using that for edges gets a really nice shine.
@@BlackFlagLeatherGoods I couldn't agree more. The end result is what matters. How you get there is gonna be different for everyone. What I've found is that beeswax last step gives a nice shine and protects the edge a bit. Never tried carnuba wax. But in order to get that shine with the beeswax I try to create as much friction heat as I can. I rub it on quickly. Then I slick it really fast. Then I hit it with denim. All with a really fast back and forth motion. Seems to be the only way to get it to melt properly and create that shine. The wax is like an add on for the tokonole. Looks good without it (I love tokonole). But the wax really sets it off. But like you said, and I couldn't agree more. No one's process is the same and you gotta find what works best for you. There is so much info out there now. You just gotta find your process
great info💪🏼music is too repetitive, you don’t need it❣️
Thank you!
agree with everything except the sanding. honestly if you are doing any sort of business with your leatherwork, the super glass fancy edges just dont matter. customers dont care, and the edge will never hold that super shiny burnish for very long with normal use. excessive sanding is not worth it and just doesnt matter. shaping the edges with a rough grit like 60 or 80, and then sanding with a medium grit like 120 or 150 is all you need. then burnish like normal to give a nice looking edge that is burnished. If its just a hobby, then, yeah sand away, get that mirror edge, but not for a leather business. in a business money matters, and you dont make money by spending hours sanding edges. ANY fulltime professional leather crafter will tell you the same.
Hey thanks for watching! I disagree that any full timer would tell me the same. I do know a few full time leather crafters who spend the time putting the shiny edge on some of their products. Definitely not all of them. You're right, though, it does take forever to do and probably would not be feasible for a larger operation. Generally I see these edges going on shell cordovan products which are easier to get that glass edge on and sell at a premium price anyway.
I like to sand up to around 800-1000 grit or so and put a fairly crisp (but not glass) edge on it. It takes a bit more time but not too much more. Ultimately it comes down to the maker's preference.
That's the beauty of this craft though. We can disagree and do things differently and it sets us all apart.
You need to show more pride in your
If your a leather worker and your buying a leather strip then your doing something wrong. Everything else I agree with
Great tips but the repetitive background music causes me to become a serial killer.
Subliminal messaging! 😂