NAD 5120 mending a noisy motor
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- čas přidán 11. 05. 2015
- A video of my servicing a noisy AC motor in a NAD 5120 turntable, including some description of this novel deck, based on the Tesla NC470, and designed in Czechoslovakia by Jiří Janda.
Facebook Group for fans of the NAD 5120 here: / 237444080537190
I created this video with the CZcams Video Editor ( / editor ) - Jak na to + styl
You may be no longer monitoring your channel , but if you are.........THANK YOU, thank you thank you !! I have just followed your instructional guide and completely extinguished the motor noise on my precious (but very old) Nad 5120. I was about to consider buying a new deck, but had a quick search on the internet and found your video. So glad I did, and so glad I still have my, now rejuvenated, Nad. Absolutely delighted !
Thank you for your kind words Alan, glad the video was useful and that another 5120 is kept running
This is perfect, I’ve yet to attempt it but I’m confident now so thanks for the work you’ve put in and out . Love that you left the “ who you talking to? “ in also !
Jonathan! Great success with my deck, I solved the floating rotor and noise issue. The thrust washer was squashed down in its holder. Luckily the ball bearing was intact and in place. A gentle push back inwards relocated everything. However the main trick to a silent motor was the use of Tamiya rc car motor bearing oil on both motor bearing points, an unbelievable improvement!
Thank you very much for your video!
I have a NAD 5120 which I bought around 25 years ago as new (I think it was manufactured around 30 years ago but it was on stock for about 5-6 years when I bough it). I never used it until 4-5 months ago. I am very happy with it, but the motor started to make some noise. I followed the steps you have described and now is working fine.
Wonderful work. Thank you. My 5120 was relegated to the attic for a number of years with a noisy motor. I followed the steps in your video and it sounds better than ever. I even quite enjoyed the repair process. Thank you again :-)
John Kenyon Many thanks John , glad the video was of use
Excellent video, thanks for the thorough insight. I had one of these turntables many years ago and just bought a second hand one because my son "wants to get into vinyl". The one we bought had some problems and the info in this vid really helped me get them fixed.
Btw, I love the part where your wife walks in and asks who you're talking to, lol.
Thanks again.
+seanrunchman Thanks Sean, glad it was useful to you. yes - my wife thinks I'm mad. Extra points if you spot my cat making a brief cameo
Thank‘s Jonathan! My Motor did not turn at all and now it is working.
I followed your video tutorial to the letter with the exception that I used Phil Wood Waterproof Grease on the motor sleeve and thrust bearings and Tenacious Oil on the subplatter bearing. All went spot on perfect - now operates quite as a sleeping mouse. Many kind regards :)
My pleasure, glad it was useful
This makes me want to play my old 5120! Need to order a new belt, old one just drops off.. And a RIAA amplifier!
This helped me open up and clean a similar M307 motor unit on my Pro-Ject 6.9. Runs quiet as a mouse now, thank you very much.
My pleasure, glad it was useful. I think Pro-Ject has some link with Tesla who made the NAD 5120, possibly its the same factory at Livotel, in the Czech Republic
Jonathan, Thank you so much for this video. Just repaired my NAD5120 that I picked up with a record collection but the motor wouldn't turn. Working perfectly now.
Thanks Warren , glad it was useful
Just great - thanks a lot!
I pulled mine out of the cupboard where it had sat for well over ten years. Motor seized solid. Followed this and now it all works!
P.S. Tell your wife you were talking to me!
bcpberry gmail thanks for the feedback and glad its working. I will
Hi Jonathan, thanks again for the info..I may look for another deck or desolder the motor to get a better assessment of it. I reckon the thrust bearing is missing but have put it back together now. Will get back to you for advice and much appreciate your knowledge and help!
Oh, man, I thought I was going to have to try and find an unobtanium czech motor for my deck. Know what Im gonna be doing tonight...
Very good! Thanks a lot.
Thank you
Hi, thank you for your video ! It is really helpful ! I have question , I just got mine NC 470 and its got a loud motor, so I will be dismantling it . Will it be okay to use fine machinery oil instead of silicone grease ? The service manual for NC 470 specifically mentions fine machinery oil, but I am not sure which one Is better .
Thank you for your answer.
Thank you. I think oil is fine, but I used grease as I wanted the lubricant to not need replacing for several years and the lower bearing is inaccessible without stripping the motor. The upper motor bearing is accessible as you can place a single drop of oil on the rod that the pulley attaches to , and it will naturally seep down into the upper collar bearing
That was good to watch. I have trouble with my Nad 5120 in that the on off switch sometimes flicks back to the off position . Do you have any tips?
+Stephan Hall Hi Stephen, thanks. The on/off/lower/raise switch at the front, links via a coupling to a rod which is sprind loaded and I think grease damped to raise lower the arm. It also operates the electrical switch. You would need to do much of what I do in the video i.e unplug at the wall,remove the lid, arm, platter. Then unscrew the 3 screws holding the top of the plinth, as I do in the video. Once you have the top of the plinth off you can see the way the front switch operates the electrical switch and also has the spring rod which runs backward and operates the riase/lower rod. I suspect that perhaps some of the old lubricant has gummed up. It may simply need a single drop of oil at 1 or 2 points where the rod rotates
Brilliant! I have been puzzling over how to get one of these apart to mend it. Many thanks!
my pleasure, glad it's of use
Thanks - I could see that the top would come off around all the fittings but it never occurred to me that the tonearm would just pull off! And....you're talking to us, Johnathan - and we appreciate it.
My pleasure. I have a funny fondness for these wonderfully odd decks, I'm happy to share. I noticed someone is selling a spares or repair example on ebay and mentions the motor is noisy and there is a video to fix it - fame ;) I'll get some T-shirts printed with "Who are you talking to ?" on them :)
And I'm a mere beginner, you have an impressive list of turntable repair video's. The DECCA electronic is a thing of beauty, and is that a Radford pre-amp beneath ? Thank you for your kind words
Yes, Radford and Decca are my little weaknesses. My 'No 1' system is Decca London s/gold in a strange custom deck (concrete ! plinth, unipivot tonearm and an externally driven Garrard 401 platter) into Radfords SC24, Renaissance STA35 amp and Studio 60 transmission line speakers. But I'll happily fiddle about with anything that reproduces records!
Hi, I have one of these turntables, I have a problem...when I put the vinyl the arm goes very fast in a straight line and dont stop, he dont "read" the music, dont go around
Jonathan, thanks for posting this work. You helped me to repair my buzzing Project 1.2 turntable motor. The bearings needed greasing but how to take apart the motor?
You showed it. 🍻
Glad it was useful
This buzz occurred just the other day on my seldom used turntable, so it just now started. I have since played it for several hours after the maintenance and the buzz has disappeared completely. I plan on using the turntable much more as I have upgraded my stereo. I'll update if the buzz comes back.
Thanks for a great video! My turntable is now working even If I must made some misstake then splitting the motor. The rivet broke insted. But i manage to get it toghter again. Say hi to your wife! Love her comment.
Thanks, glad it helped. Yes - she still worries about me talking to myself
Hi great vid! Just bought a 5120 as a project but it has the noisy motor issue. Opened it up as per your instructions but on reassembly I notice to rotor spindle now floats up and down loosely approx 3mm! Also it seems to have been opened previously, could any thing be missing from inside? Thanks!
Hi and thanks, there is a little up and down movement of the entire rotor mechanism even when the motor is new. If you opened the motor a couple of Q's. 1) in the lower half of the motor the rotor sits in a plastic cap which forms a thrust bearing.
That cap should have a ball bearing in the base of it (hard to see) If a previous owner has mangled that cap, the bearing may have come out 2) when you squeeze the 2 halves back together, you rotate, squeeze a few times with gentle firmness. They need to have a tight joint so make sure the two halves are tightly together has far as they will go.
have you tried running it, does the movement cause a problem ?
great video I used it to redo my deck last year. today though the deck started to run slow and varying plus occasionally spin backwards, sounds like the phase capacitor may be gone?
a pleasure. If the deck is sometimes running backward that does suggest that the phase capacitor needs replacing. There are fairly cheap Polypropelne or polycarbonate alternatives to the originaginal RIFA caps
Hi Roger , what are the symptoms ? Ebay sometimes has spare parts from cannibalised decks. I wouldnt pay more than £10 for second hand motor
Hi Jonathan, thank you for the reply, the motor runs much the same but is still audible. I think the bearings are intact. Are replacement motors available? The deck is in very good order but i'm worried the slop in the rotor and the noise may affect the sound reproduction quality.
Hi Nicholas, well I guess your options are a) find a second hand donor deck - on ebay sometimes people sell examples for spares or repair - there is an active market in selling the arms and hinges b) You can get a new motor as Tesla went on to make motors for Project and a kind poster at my blog (fub) says that M307 230v version from Henley Designs is a drop in replacement. Cost 40 GBP plus postage c) if you can unsolder the original , I'll happily take a look. It sounds like its intact. Did you extract and clean and dry the sponge doughnut beneath the motor. The deck uses a suspended sub-chasis so I'm sceptical that motor vibration ill get into the replay
Thank you for this video. Will this fix a ticking noise coming from the motor?
+Sean Oz Hi Sean, does the ticking occur even with the platter and belt removed ? If so that I would say this has a good chance of fixing the problem, possibly caused by dirt accumulating in the motors lower thrust bearing. If you look under the deck, you can see the motor thrust bearing cap protruding through a recessed hole underneath. Check the cap has not been attacked or mangled by someone trying to remove it, a mistake, as you need to access it from inside the motor
Thanks for the video. The motor has become noisy on my NAD 5120 turntable & I've tried to use 3-in-1 oil around & on top of the pulley area, being careful to clean it off before putting the drivebelt back on. I'm sure this worked once but now it doesn't. I've seen you take it apart by way of the grub screw but I'm reluctant to do this for fear of compromising the whole turntable! My wife has rooted out a place in Middlesbrough where I should take the turntable to get it looked at (they do a free assessment) so I may take my precious NAD there one day soon. I've had it since 1993 (bought from North Street in Guildford) but it was stored in a loft for about 8 years. It has worked pretty well since then but as I say this motor noise is starting to piss me off a bit. I'm sure it's a bit intermittent too, seems to go quieter & get louder again.
You look skilled at what you're doing taking it apart applying the lubricant etc but I wouldn't trust myself doing that so a Middlesbrough trip could be on!
All the best to you, have a good Xmas everyone.
P.S > One thing I have noticed is that when a bit of pressure is applied to the side of the motor pulley the noise almost totally disappears! In fact maybe if the drivebelt was super tight it might actually pull on the pulley so much as to alleviate the problem of the noise. But it's a pretty new drivebelt I have so I can't be buying new ones just to experiment every 5 minutes.
@@julianmbrown Hi Jules, thanks for the comment. Are you based around Guildford by chance , I live in Fleet.
The only really hard part is getting the pulley off, as sometimes the grub screw has been mangled in the past. Also sometimes the underside of the motor has a plastic thrust bearing which is visible from under the deck. I've seen these where they have been abused in attempt to get oil to the lower bearing.
A different approach is to buy a deck for spares, they still come up on ebay, and transplant parts as they fail.
Good luck with your repair, but if you are around the Surrey/Hampshire borders I'd be happy to take a look at it
@@jives11 Bless you Jonathan but I live up north now. Used to live in Bookham up until 1996 (hence the mention of Guildford)
Thanks for your reply. I'll see how it goes & as I say I may take it to this place up here as they sound decent enough. I'll keep you posted should anything exciting occur!
I'm heartbroken! I took my turntable in to get looked at & they've told me the bearing has crumbled away & replacing the bearing would be more expensive than getting a new turntable as they're hard to find.
So I'm having to go in & collect my 30+ year old NAD 5120 & presumably take it to the graveyard!
I told a friend, he said definitely collect it as he has a friend who is a bit obsessed with all things NAD but I'm not holding out too much hope. I'll probably have to grit my teeth & buy a modern turntable to work alongside my vintage (& still working!) NAD amp some time soon.
Wasn't expecting it to be written off like that though.
I assume they meant the motor lower bearing had crumbled ? They’re not hard to find and fix free m ebay
The problem I have with mine is it's 50/50 whether the motor turns clockwise or anti-clockwise. I replaced the phasing capacitor (350V 0.22µF) and I'm 90% sure I put it in the same place (first and third of the four metal parts on the l/h side) but it hasn't made any difference. It's a bit noisy too but if I can't get it to rotate in the right direction the noise isn't relevant. Any ideas?
Hi,
the motor direction is set from the phase cap, so if iot still turns randomly either way, I think this must be the same problem. I used a 0.22uF cap , metalised polyprop, which is good to 250V AC 500VDC.
Here is a picture of the wiring
4.bp.blogspot.com/-Aa_vF4u3dwA/Ux7mqsr6NFI/AAAAAAAACMA/-U4lSiAoCTU/s1600/IMG_0467.JPG
Thank you for sharing this video, I have been having trouble with this turntable recently; the belt won't turn consistently and sometimes it won't turn at all. When it does turn, it looks like it struggling to turn the central spindle, power seems to be fine, motor sounds like It is working. When it does work, it will turn for a short while and then struggle to turn. Also sometimes it seems to turn the central spindle fine but when I put the main plate on top it stops turning at all. Without the belt on will the spindle on top of the motor turn (I cannot see mine do this, tried this out to see whether it is a motor problem or a new belt is in order.
I've had this turntable for 6 years and I've never had a problem with the power on this turntable but I could be wrong. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Hi elviss. Well a few things to try. First , is there a gap between the underside of the platter and the top of the turntable base i.e clearance ? if you take the mat off, the metal plate beneath should have the outer lip turned up, not down. Worth checking.
next, if you remove the belt, and put the plate and rubber mat back on and spin the platter by hand it should turn freely for several minutes. If it doesn't, I'd suggest remove the mat, plate and the plastis sub platter, which pulls out of the main bearing well, clean the metal bearing and maybe a drop of oil down inside the well before putting back. just let it descend normally, dont force it down.
if that doesn't help, we can consider the pulley. With the mat and plate removed , switch the deck off at the mains. The motor pulley is held to the motor by a grub screw and its possible that this is loose so perhaps the pulley is slipping on the motor shaft, you would need to examine it by hand and see if it's loose.
A new belt may help, but it's worth thoroughly cleaning the old one using lots of pumped hand soap , and soak in warm water. Also both pulley and su platter surfaces should be thoroughly clean and a wipe of each isopropyl alcohol is the best way.
It is probably a motor issue if none of the above. It's worth following the procedure in my video i.e cleaning and lubricating the motor
if all these fails to help it points to a dieing motor, which I have seen. The only way to see if the motor is electrically OK is to test each of the coils with a multimeter set to resistance. the resistance of each coil is high, from memory 10's of K Ohms, so a continuity test may not work, but measuring resistance will. Not everyone has a multimeter, and the test requires the motor to be removed i.e desoldered from the deck. if the coils are fine, I'm at a bit of a loss. if one circuit is dead (if both were there would be no rotation), then the deck needs a new motor, and the cheapest /easiest way is to source a donor deck from , say , ebay and swap it in. You will get some other useful spares from the donor, like an extra pluggable tonearm should you decide to use two different cartridges. the spare hinges can be sold on easily as they work as superior replacements for Linn LP12 decks and are, hence valuable. Let me know how you get on or any more questions, you can see my full name and my email is on gmail.com
@@jives11 Hi Jonathan, many thanks for your advice, will try a few of these points this evening. For lubrication of the motor would you recommend a particular oil? Many thanks!
Joshua
@@elviss Hi Joshua, I think with this deck the type of oil is not too critical. Most decks used to suggest sewing machine oil , sometimes called clipper oil, but a single drop of engine oil or gear box oil should be fine, though I'd avoid penetrating oils which are designed more to free up rusty bolts than provide long term lubrication. With the motor I used some silicon grease. It doesn't need more than a drop down the well,
Hi Jonathan.
I've picked up a 5120 at a jumble sale. Round arm with a similar looking needle to the one in the video; the only difference i can see is it's a red LED version.
However there is no light when i power up and the motor doesn't spin; i've checked the fuse so that's off the list.
Any suggestions as to where to look next?
As you say it's all live once you take the cover off and I'm not keen to start prodding with my voltmeter just yet.
Hi Captain (BTW one of my all time favourite shows growing up).
Well no light or motor suggests to me that the switch at the front is broke or stuck open OR the metal pin in the switch is not engaging with the switch mechanism.
Definitely unplug the deck from the mains and follow my video to strip the deck i.e remove lid, arm, platter and the top of the plinth.
at the front right there is the switch which is coupled to a rod. as you rotate does two things - it raises/lowers the arm via the rod. It also opens/closes a switch contact at the front. My suspicion is that this is broken or not working.
I'm on google mail and my full name (i.e my address is at the top), maybe take a few pictures and mail them to me to advise.
Whereabouts is Cloudbase for you ?
Cloudbase is Rickmansworth near Watford - although funnily enough I have cousins in Borden, home of the HiFi Hanger!!
I got as far as taking the cover off and the switch looked OK but I'll repeat and take some video for you.
check that the twisting switch causes a metal piece slide in and out, which opens/closes the contacts. The plastic switch has a metal pin through it which nudges the sluder along. Did turning the switch open/close the contacts.
I'm in Fleet, often pop along to HiFi Hanger, great place - Steve & Sarah are great
I just acquired a NAD 5120 and the tonearm won't raise after the record is finished playing. Any suggestions? Thanks
Some do , some don't. Normally if they dont it's because a 1cm plastic rod or peg beneath the plastic sub-platter, has been snapped off. It engages with the internal sub-arm at the end of side. I have read of people improvising a replacement peg
i have recently uncover my late father's NAD 5120 Turntable but i see in the video there is a belt, it appears that the belt is not here ,where can i get a belt from?
I get my belts from here www.thakker.eu/en/belts/turntables/nad-5120-original-thakker-belt/a-3224/
I have this type of turntable with flat arm! It's something out of common, i love it! I bought it from a colleague about 18 years ago and he "solved" the noisy motor with some SUNFLOWER OIL! Sh*t! The motor got stuck after some time coz the oil hardened. That time i could only make it rotate again, but it was noisy. Now i took it apart and solved the problem, the bearings were nasty inside. Ugh! Now it's silent as new, thanks for the tutorial!
Thanks TheMachinedestroyer , glad it helped, they are unusual decks, but clever designs and I love them, capable of sounding very good
It sounds really good, i love it. Now i need a new cartridge, the old one is the original Tesla, only god knows how many records were played with it, as far as i know, MANY, by its former user. Can you suggest me a cheap but good hifi cartridge for it? Thanks.
Theoretically the arm can be adjusted , with its unique damping, to work with any cartridge. later they shipped with ortofon OM5 cartridges usually and these are a good match. That range is no longer made by Ortofon, but I *think* but there are plenty in stock, I favour William Thakker as a good source online. They have the OM5 for €30. You could go to the OM10 which is €44 new, or pick up a second hand OM series cartridge and just swap the stylus, thakker sell the styli they are named STY5, 10 etc , they all used the same body. I actually tried the OM20 which cost many times more than the deck, and sounded very sweet
I managed to buy an OM5E and i'm really surprised how big the difference can be between a new and an old (and awfully lot used) cartridge. Before i thought that my NAD sounds good. I was wrong! NOW it sounds good, really. I've set up the tracking force, the alignment, the anti-skating, but i don't know what that little barrel and the settable arc should do. Can you help me?
do you mean a while plastic bolt at the back of the arm ? This forms part of the anti-resonance setting, along with the rod which descends from the centre of the fracking weight wheel down into a transparent chamber, which should contain highly viscous silicon oil.
You probably would be best following the user guide for setting. You can obtain it for free from here, you have to register but its very easy. There are 3 ways to set these values - from a list of known cartridges, from the parameters of the cartridge or by using a special test record NAD released with the deck or by using a good average setting.
www.vinylengine.com/ve_downloads/index.php?nad/nad_5120.pdf
I don’t suppose you know the size of the ball bearing in the motor, I can’t quite tell with my eyesight if it’s in there or just a concave housing for a ball bearing. I’ve relubed and put back together and it’s almost imperceptibly quiet so presumably it’s still there but I have a nagging feeling the motor is just spinning on ball bearing housing and grease.
Also I’m having trouble with the speed changer and wondered whether that is contributing to the motor spindle being lower
Thank you for this video, I feel like I’m close to have it fully operational again, just want to be sure that ball bearing is actually in there
Hi Robin, I'm afraid I don't know the diameter of the ball inside the thrust bearing. It should be fairly obvious with a magnifying glass to see it inside as its silver against the black surrounding. There is a poor photo on a blog I did about the deck here 2.bp.blogspot.com/-3EGqWctT7lU/Ux7mgNbqwXI/AAAAAAAACLw/9eLtAapjkwg/s1600/IMG_0409.JPG
I'd say if its spinning silently it should be present and it woukd be hard to imagine a way of extracting the ball without severely damaging the plastic cap, so if its intact I'd not worry too much.
The speed changer, like many mechanical derailleur-type can be a long fettle to get right, allowing speed change without rubbing the motor. The height of the pulley relative to the platter is important. I sometimes found it easier to speed change from stationary rather then an already spinning platter.
You can run the deck with the entire top section removed as a means of diagnosis. It enables you to see the relative heights of the pulley, belt and sub-platter when viewed from the side. You can even run the deck , but considerable care is needed as the wiring is exposed in this form and potentially dangerous
@@jives11 thank you for this. I think I’m golden with the ball bearing and I’m just waiting on a replacement belt. Your video has been such an amazing resource. Much appreciated.
Hi, I have a NAD 5120 and when I take the platter off the motor spins the sub platter both speeds, but when I locate the platter, it does not spin., I have tried to loosen the transit screw no difference. Do the three screws around the turntable need to be adjusted also. Maybe the transit screw has cross threaded? Any help? I cannot play any records as the sub platter seems to be fixed at a 'transit position', and the weight and position of the platter does not allow the platter to spin?
Hi Charlie, the big wheel underneath should slacken until the height of the sub-platter is raised enough for clearance. The 3 screws have a small effect but its fairly slight. Q: Are you putting the main platter on with its lip facing upward ?
Does tightening or slackening the transit wheel allow the sub-chassis some clearance. Also has the sub-chassis come off its 3 springs (inside). Easy to fit back but you have to remove the arm and the top of the plinth as per the video
Sorted now; the screw didnt release the platter so i prised it open, great video btw.
Great, there is a Circlip as I recall which allows the lower screw dial to come off. Anyway glad you are sorted
Yes many thanks, I was worried the screw would fall out, but I supported and looked at it from below, all the best
Hi Jonathan. My 5120 does not raise the arm at the end of the record. To add insult to injury, it will activate the arm return near the end, which makes the stylus scratch the vynil. Any ideas? Thank you and keep up the good work.
Hi Fernando, I'm a bit confused as the 5120 does not return the arm . If it works, and sometimes it doesn't , all that happens is the arm is raised and the power turned off, but the arm is still at the end of the record ?
the return mechanism is triggered by a plastic rod on the underside of the plastic sub-platter which catches on a hidden swing arm inside the deck. Sometimes the plastic rod has snapped off, it may be possible to replace or maybe glue a thumb tack underneath in that position. But even when it works, it has no means to make the arm return
@@jives11, thanks for the quick answer. I mean that the arm comes back a bit, goes forward and it comes back again. I can hear the mechanism clicking (to raise the arm, I suppose).
@@fernandosilva6038 I see. Inside the deck the autoriase mechanism is rather like that game "Mousetrap". It's possible that one of the swing arms is either not in the right place or a tensioning spring inside has come loose. if you disconnect the arm from the power, and remove the mat and metal plater, and belt it might be possible to simulate what is happening by moving the arm across while winding the plastic sub platter ?
@@jives11, thank you for your help. I'll have a look at it and let you know how it went. Either that or bother you again with my absolute lack of mechanical knowledge. Thank you!
You might need to remove the top from the turntable as I do in the video to check that all the springs and mechanical linkages are in the correct places for the arm raise. There is a rod which links the base of the tonearm to the "catcher swing arm". hard to explain but there are some good pictures in this thread. It's free to join the forum
www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/viewtopic.php?t=105238
My NAD only makes a loud noise when put on to 45 but is quiet when it's on 33. Do you have any easy solutions to this? I'm new to using record players so it could be an easy fix that I don't know about?
Hi, what sort of noise ? I suspect the noise is the belt rubbing partly on the speed change mechanism.
If you take the rubber mat off and the metal platter, you can see the mechanism. The trouble is, while you can run the deck like that for diagnostics, it wont "sit" the same without the weight of the platter, mat and a record. You could try and find a weight that weighs the same as the mat , platter and 100g for a record and sit it over the spindle. A coffee mug or heavy glass might work, inverted and centred. That way you can run the deck and operate it while being able to see what is happening.
Your options are either to slacken the two side screws that hold the sled and reseat it OR if you have a jeweler's screw driver , slacken the grub screw holding the motor pulley and raise or lower it slightly
Both these approaches might sound a bit tricky. How old is the belt , a possible solution would be get a new belt - William Thakker in Germany are my go to, and see if that helps. There is a delicate balance here and a change in one area i.e a slightly narrower, newer belt might be all it takes
@@jives11 I took off the belt and it seems to be the motor making the noise yet only makes it on the 45 setting.its an old NAD 5120.
@@flyingdonkey7237 Interesting. All the speed change does is derail the belt between the two pulley sections. With no belt in place it's just sliding the metal sled affair in and out which doesn't touch the motor. Is the noise simply the metal sled rattling ?
@@jives11 it could be, I'll loosen the screws a bit, it could just be that it's rubbing.
@@flyingdonkey7237 Good plan, that whole sled affair is quite troublesome
I think the problem is not having oil, its possible?And what oil is?
Hi, i think your problem is with tracking weight. Are you following the instructions re rotating the disc and the weight at the same time. Do you have a set of tracking weight scales to compare with ?
+Jonathan Ives No, I dont have and I dont understand totally what are you saying bcs my english is bad.
I appreciate your help, Im going to try to do that
Samuel Nobre the user instructions can be downloaded from the library of the ‘vinyl engine’ website , google will help you. You must register to download but it is free. My previous comment was confusing. The tracking weight is set by turning the top wheel at the rear of the arm . It moves the arm weight backwards or forwards along the arm. Inside the wheel is a calibration disc with numbers on. It might be easiest to obtain some simple cartridge scales , ortofon do a cheap basic set.
+Jonathan Ives Thank you so much, I will try to do that
+Jonathan Ives sorry for the work that im giving to you...so, I went to the site, I register myself and then I put in the library, I put in that turntable but now I dont know what numbers I have to put in the weight because there are many numbers
I need help, thanks
Hi Samuel, my apologies, I missed your post and rudely didnt reply. if the arm skates across the record that suggests to me the tracking weight is incorrect. Setting up this arm is complicated, do you have the original instructions ? You can get a copy from the vinyl engine forum here . You will need to register but it is free:
www.vinylengine.com/library/nad/5120.shtml
Sometimes its not always clear with tone arms that you balance the arm, set the calibration ring (or disc in this case) then turn the tracking weight and ring/disk together. Alternatively getting a simple set of cheap digital scales can be another route
who are you talking too? :)
myself
Well no we cannot see as you have your hands in the way.🙄