I believe that one of the advantages of the "low" side fence setting is allows the fence to be set closer to the blade with the blade guard in place for ripping thing strips of material. Gotta protect those digits... In adjustability, you should also check to see how convenient it is to swap/remove the riving knife/blade guard. When switching to dado cuts, those items must be removed. If it's a pain to replace them, you probably won't, and that can become a huge safety issue. Not only do they protect from accidental blade contact, but in most cases, the anti-kickback pawls are mounted to them.
There are several reasons to removing the riving knife. Some operations are impossible with it on. Off the top of my head, blind stop cuts where you have to raise the blade into the work and coping cuts wouldn't work with the riving knife attached. While I agree it should be on for a majority of your cuts, there are times when you do need to remove it. So never say never.
I run a 3hp double bag dust collector and I still have dust build up inside the cabinet just like you show. Harvey's little 3" hose chokes any size DC. I'm currently working on improving this situation both inside the cabinet and with their over-arm chute, which also has a hose diameter that's too small. FYI there's a ton of info on Bill Pentz's website about proper/minimum hose sizing.
Prior to Harvey finally selling under their own name they were known to make their machines for other brands. One was the Grizzly G0690/G0691, which was Harvey C2/C3 table saw. I have the G0690 with all Harvey accessories (router table/Shark dust arm) because they are a direct fit. Same goes for their lathes (Harvey T60 vs Grizzly G0800). If you look deep into the mechanical parts you will find many brands interchangeable. Funny part is you changed from a Harvey(G0691) to a Harvey. (mind you not their old C3 design) LOL
Gotta tell ya, I’ve seen lots and lots of videos ever since you tube started (yes I’m that old) and this particular “review” video comes closest to being the best video for the new learner and safety on a tablesaw. Yes, I’m a woodworker also! Why was I here you ask? The direct drive on my TS was great for 25 yeas and just quit. While trying to find a replacesment motor (only chancy ones on eBay) I’ve been considering a new TS. Saw Stop may end up being my choice, however I warnted to see how these (not so popular) Harveys held up! So, Thanks again for an excellent video on two fronts, review of the saw AND the neub plus safety aspecst!
Grizzly bear crawl base. Will fix your problem tipping. I have a grizzly g0899 table saw with a router extension. The make a leg extension that will go on the bear crawl Mobil base. For the wide support. Lookup the G0899
Good work covering the power issue for saws. A little late for me. What I did was a bought a saw without any thought. Then I got a two year degree and became a electrician. Then I was able to power the saw three years later. Running it on 120 power made it draw an house dimming amount of amps.
My Dewalt contractor table saw combined with a dust deputy and 6.5hp Dewalt shop vac has excellent dust collection. helps to use a zero clearance insert.
Agree with you on job site saws, with one exception: Dewalt DWE7491RS has a rack and pinion fence which supported on the front and back end. Its rock solid. I was surprised that larger cabinet saws only lock on the front end, resulting in back end deflection. Harvey offers an upgraded fence, but my point is that it should be standard, if a $600 Dewalt has a better fence. And the rack and pinion adjustment makes adjustment a breeze. All fences should follow that design
It's funny. Last weekend when I assembled my Harvey saw, all of the issues I ran into were, ultimately, my own issues. For example, while trying to install the blade, I found it impossible, my hand just wouldn't fit into the space. Then I read the manual and realized that I hadn't raised the blade high enough. During my first cut, the saw threw the belt. That was caused by my having removed the locking bolt (a result of not realizing that it WAS the locking bolt when I removed the yellow locking strap during initial assembly). Having said that, replacing the belt is a royal pain, getting belt over the motor pulley is a blind operation in a very constrained space. Here are some of my observations. First, some of the assembly instructions need work. A few diagrams were just too small and lacked detail. This being my 4th table saw (and second cabinet saw), I was able to figure it all out myself. Second, Harvey should really include the special Allen key with the very short arm needed to attach the front fence rail. I ended up using my Dremel with a cutoff wheel to shorten my own. Third, the saw, overall, is very nicely finished. The miter gauge is a bit of shop jewelry and the included fence and stop are wonderful features. The Fence glides smoothly and locks securely. The saw came properly aligned from the blade to the miter slots measuring just about .001 off using the same tooth method at full blade height. Fourth, the saw comes with the correct 20 amp plug (with one blade perpendicular to the other), you will need a proper 20 amp circuit with the correct outlet. One unexpected bonus is that the saw comes with the switch and circuit breaker for conversion to 230 volts. Finally, Dust collection seems okay. I have a small dust collector and on the test cut I did (with the overhead guard in place) only a small amount escaped. But we will see once I get more experience. These are initial impressions, I have only run a few test cuts. But, overall, I am very pleased. Bonus tip: Join Harvey's e-mailing list. I wasn't ready to buy this saw (I was considering others) but I got a flash sale email which chopped $500 off the price AND offered free lift gate service shipping to my door (another $500 off), essentially cutting the price by one-third. Since then I've gotten other flash sale emails with other deals so, it seems, that watching Harvey like a hawk and pouncing when opportunities arise is the way to get the best prices.
I am always enjoying your CZcams. I really wanted to buy table so like you. Then after saw this movie I could find Japanese distributer. I just got same table saw but not gold top. Anyway. I really like your CZcams and respect you. And I want to say thank you. You change my life.
You might want to try the overarm dust collection as it will definitely improve the collection. One point about using the fence as a stop when crosscutting. I make sure my stop block will create a gap between the fence and the blade wider than the diagonal dimension of the cut piece. (hope that makes sense)
So we get a table saw review, tips on choosing a table saw, and tips on using a table saw. Really three videos in one. Woby is for the people. I'm over here rocking a vintage 80's Craftsman saw with 12" blade and direct drive. In my old house and shop, I wired in 220V power for it, but now, I have to swap with my dryer. This saw has no riving knives. They are incorporated with the blade shroud, which was missing when I got it. No dust extraction, though I could probably DIY it by building a cabinet in the legs. It has the worst fence in the history of table saw fences. But I live with it because it's the saw that I have. Harvey has been getting a lot of good press lately. I'll put them on my shopping list for when I'm ready to spring for a new table saw. Thanks for sharing!
The low fence position allows the fence to get closer to the blade while still using the overhead blade guard since the blade guard slider will ride on top of the fence. Also for certain cuts you have more room for a hand/jig/push block riding on top of the extrusion in the low position. The minimum cfm recommended is 470cfm but a lot of how good the suction performance is also is the static pressure. Issue a lot of collectors have is either high cfm and low pressure so poor performance even with high airflow stats, or high pressure and almost no airflow like how the oneida supercell is less 500cfm so it pulls hard but doesnt move much air. Harvey G700/800 are a balance of good cfm/pressure for 1 light industrial machine.
Thanks Ben, this is good stuff, im still at the green ryobi on a stand stage, it has politely scratched my finger and given me a few kickbacks. A lot for me to take onboard here. Thanks again.
Free-hand cutting on a table saw is common on jobsites because it's the fastest, cleanest way to make a slightly angled cut along the length of a board. It's not so dangerous if you know what you're doing and the scribe is very gradual; otherwise, a jigsaw or bandsaw is in order.
The front of the auxiliary guide should be a maximum of 10 mm beyond the point where the saw blade cuts the wood to its full height. If the auxiliary guide extends further, the risk of the workpiece getting stuck between the saw blade and the auxiliary guide increases. And futher more you will have less deflection
Low fence is a nice feature if you use the dust hood over the blade. That way if you cut a thin strip you can keep it on and have more room for a push stick.
I use the low fence all the time, especially with plywood and/or narrow cuts. Allows more space to hold the push block. In fact, I'd say I rarely use the taller fence side--maybe only for cutting a board on edge?
Hey, just jumping in right after watching your question regarding the low fence! I use the blade guard on my saw (a Metabo contractor's saw that's common in Europe), and the low fence feature is great for ripping thin strips. It lets me get my push stick in there, which would otherwise get jammed between the guard and fence. I don't know of any other uses! It does limit my fence jig capabilities.
I have the same saw. I'm going to vouch for the fact that the dust collection is poor. Yes you can overpower its shortcomings with moar horse power. But the 4HP model is 100% more effective at collecting dust. Here's some tips for boosting your dust collection on this particular model: - Use spray foam around the cast iron top where it meats the cabinet. - Use gaffer tape to seal the raise/lower crank opening. If you use real gaffer tape, you can remove it for bevel cuts w.o leaving residue - Seal the bottom of this saw with a cut board. The bottom of these 2hp saws is wide open, you need to seal all the areas that aren't the throat, in order to focus all suction at that port. For anyone telling me that I shouldn't seal the cabinet I have to say that I already did, and my dust collection was greatly improved. Additionally I made my own throat plate which has the same open port area as the 4" dust collection hose. The overhead dust collection does almost nothing. It's best to seal that up as well.
Sorry, but, at 11:28, the fence definitely move when you shake it with your hands, to the point that you clamped down the fence further and then it was OK. BTW, your presentation is the most complete and the most honest I have seen.
Blade hight adjustment is serious stuff if you wanna get the most out of your blade… the longer the cut is (low blade) the faster your blade gets dull…
I've been salivating over the Harvey for a while and am pretty sure it's going to be what I end up purchasing soon. I'm just going to go with the non-gold top and then ceramic coat it or something myself. I love the look of the gold top, the TiN coating looks awesome but I can't justify the extra $500 for just a coating. I did hear they are working on another new coating too, not exactly sure what it's going to be but it's supposed to be low friction and rust inhibiting as well. IMO Harvey is definitely the bet buy right now if you're looking for this type of saw. The amount of adjustments you can do with it, the quality of the fence and miter gauge is on another planet compared to the competition.
Yeah, don’t get the TiN top, I did and regret it. It rusted first week I had it and the top now looks like a mess. Plus it’s not slippery smooth like a cast iron top.
When I bought my Harvey router table extension it came with a nice extruded aluminum leg that is meant to screw into the bottom of the cast iron extension. I guess my point is, just make a simple leg under the tippy end of the saw. Also, don't replace those filters, just blow compressed air at them from the outside and then clean that dust out from the bottom.
I just sold my Harvey table saw because it was JUNK! Dust collection doesn't work well, there was something wrong with the fence I couldn't figure out, and there was missing parts to the belt adjustment part. Just couldn't continue to love it.
I had the Harvey Alpha and couldn't fault it. Amazing bit of kit. But unfortunately I had to move to a smaller shop and had to sell it. The only problem I had was that the top rusted through the gold. But Harvey realised it was a fault in the coating and send a replacement to Australia for me at no charge.
Oh really? Mine also rusted after a week of having it. I never contacted Harvey or the store I purchased it from. Maybe I should have. 🤷♀️ The top looks like a mess now.
@@jac_builtWoodworks yes I did. They were very helpful in replacing the top. There was an early batch that had the top layer poorly installed at the factory and Harvey were happy to replace the whole top.
@@jac_builtWoodworks it is a warranty request on a manufacturing defect. You are absolutely in your right to request a fix. The team at Gregorys are lovely. Give them a call. Explain your situation and they are bound to help.
The 'low' fence setting is for getting the fence really close to the blade when using the blade guard, which of course no one in the US ever uses because presumably you don't cut and bleed like most other human beings.
@@WobyDesign Riving knife - safety. Stability - safety. Parallel fence - safety. Blade guard, "Oh, I don't use that, it gets in the way." It's your fingers mate, not mine. Love your channel and creations by the way. 👍👍
This is a well known design that they copied form the Delta Unifence, which was copied from European fences. Plenty of people in the US have been using it for decades.
Great video oh btw my name isnt @jimmydiresta either. Wish it was hes a wizard with a table saw. Great information would love one these saws dont think they ship to Scotland!😕🏴👍
why don't you build a pillar leg for the saw ? A pillar leg is hollow made from 3/4 inch particle board it is strong to support weight ! answer to your problem
Here is my issue with Harvey, Saw Stop etc.. For each saw they give away or discount, ,the rest of us pay for it. I do have a Saw stop Job Site Pro.. it is anything but pro. It is a mid range saw with a safety device. The quality is on par with the $500 saws.. unfortunately, the Saw Stop is $1500. Additionally their "customer service" is on par with the quality of the saw., if not worse. If I were to buy a job site saw again, no question it would be a MAKITA. I primarily want accuracy and dependability.. Saw Stop is neither and the reason I am looking at Harvey. I down sized to the Job Site because of available space My 3 horse, 3 belt drive, 12", sliding table saw did not fit my current shop. I can now fit a standard sized proper table saw.. but not what I had. The Saw Stop will be sacrificed . Your Harvey 2HP is about right. Good video as always.
Did somebody say my name ? 😂😂😂
😂😂😂😂😂 I wanna free hand but I checked my ID and turns out I’m not Jimmy diresta
😂😂😂🤘🏼👊🏻
rumor has it if you chant jimmy diresta five times in a dark workshop while hugging your bandsaw, he will appear...
@@shaunfather If Ben mentions you in a video, a special red light flashes in your workshop to summon you! Just like that...here we are!
I believe that one of the advantages of the "low" side fence setting is allows the fence to be set closer to the blade with the blade guard in place for ripping thing strips of material. Gotta protect those digits... In adjustability, you should also check to see how convenient it is to swap/remove the riving knife/blade guard. When switching to dado cuts, those items must be removed. If it's a pain to replace them, you probably won't, and that can become a huge safety issue. Not only do they protect from accidental blade contact, but in most cases, the anti-kickback pawls are mounted to them.
There are several reasons to removing the riving knife. Some operations are impossible with it on. Off the top of my head, blind stop cuts where you have to raise the blade into the work and coping cuts wouldn't work with the riving knife attached. While I agree it should be on for a majority of your cuts, there are times when you do need to remove it. So never say never.
I use the low side on my harvey all time cutting strips for my cutting boards
I run a 3hp double bag dust collector and I still have dust build up inside the cabinet just like you show. Harvey's little 3" hose chokes any size DC. I'm currently working on improving this situation both inside the cabinet and with their over-arm chute, which also has a hose diameter that's too small. FYI there's a ton of info on Bill Pentz's website about proper/minimum hose sizing.
Prior to Harvey finally selling under their own name they were known to make their machines for other brands. One was the Grizzly G0690/G0691, which was Harvey C2/C3 table saw. I have the G0690 with all Harvey accessories (router table/Shark dust arm) because they are a direct fit. Same goes for their lathes (Harvey T60 vs Grizzly G0800). If you look deep into the mechanical parts you will find many brands interchangeable. Funny part is you changed from a Harvey(G0691) to a Harvey. (mind you not their old C3 design) LOL
Lol I had no idea
Yeah!
I did not know that.
Gotta tell ya, I’ve seen lots and lots of videos ever since you tube started (yes I’m that old) and this particular “review” video comes closest to being the best video for the new learner and safety on a tablesaw. Yes, I’m a woodworker also! Why was I here you ask? The direct drive on my TS was great for 25 yeas and just quit. While trying to find a replacesment motor (only chancy ones on eBay) I’ve been considering a new TS. Saw Stop may end up being my choice, however I warnted to see how these (not so popular) Harveys held up! So, Thanks again for an excellent video on two fronts, review of the saw AND the neub plus safety aspecst!
Grizzly bear crawl base. Will fix your problem tipping. I have a grizzly g0899 table saw with a router extension. The make a leg extension that will go on the bear crawl Mobil base. For the wide support. Lookup the G0899
Good work covering the power issue for saws. A little late for me. What I did was a bought a saw without any thought. Then I got a two year degree and became a electrician. Then I was able to power the saw three years later. Running it on 120 power made it draw an house dimming amount of amps.
My Dewalt contractor table saw combined with a dust deputy and 6.5hp Dewalt shop vac has excellent dust collection. helps to use a zero clearance insert.
Agree with you on job site saws, with one exception: Dewalt DWE7491RS has a rack and pinion fence which supported on the front and back end. Its rock solid. I was surprised that larger cabinet saws only lock on the front end, resulting in back end deflection. Harvey offers an upgraded fence, but my point is that it should be standard, if a $600 Dewalt has a better fence. And the rack and pinion adjustment makes adjustment a breeze. All fences should follow that design
It's funny. Last weekend when I assembled my Harvey saw, all of the issues I ran into were, ultimately, my own issues. For example, while trying to install the blade, I found it impossible, my hand just wouldn't fit into the space. Then I read the manual and realized that I hadn't raised the blade high enough. During my first cut, the saw threw the belt. That was caused by my having removed the locking bolt (a result of not realizing that it WAS the locking bolt when I removed the yellow locking strap during initial assembly). Having said that, replacing the belt is a royal pain, getting belt over the motor pulley is a blind operation in a very constrained space.
Here are some of my observations.
First, some of the assembly instructions need work. A few diagrams were just too small and lacked detail. This being my 4th table saw (and second cabinet saw), I was able to figure it all out myself.
Second, Harvey should really include the special Allen key with the very short arm needed to attach the front fence rail. I ended up using my Dremel with a cutoff wheel to shorten my own.
Third, the saw, overall, is very nicely finished. The miter gauge is a bit of shop jewelry and the included fence and stop are wonderful features. The Fence glides smoothly and locks securely. The saw came properly aligned from the blade to the miter slots measuring just about .001 off using the same tooth method at full blade height.
Fourth, the saw comes with the correct 20 amp plug (with one blade perpendicular to the other), you will need a proper 20 amp circuit with the correct outlet. One unexpected bonus is that the saw comes with the switch and circuit breaker for conversion to 230 volts.
Finally, Dust collection seems okay. I have a small dust collector and on the test cut I did (with the overhead guard in place) only a small amount escaped. But we will see once I get more experience.
These are initial impressions, I have only run a few test cuts. But, overall, I am very pleased.
Bonus tip: Join Harvey's e-mailing list. I wasn't ready to buy this saw (I was considering others) but I got a flash sale email which chopped $500 off the price AND offered free lift gate service shipping to my door (another $500 off), essentially cutting the price by one-third. Since then I've gotten other flash sale emails with other deals so, it seems, that watching Harvey like a hawk and pouncing when opportunities arise is the way to get the best prices.
I am always enjoying your CZcams.
I really wanted to buy table so like you.
Then after saw this movie
I could find Japanese distributer.
I just got same table saw but not gold top.
Anyway. I really like your CZcams and respect you.
And I want to say thank you.
You change my life.
High and low is good for thinner material
You might want to try the overarm dust collection as it will definitely improve the collection.
One point about using the fence as a stop when crosscutting. I make sure my stop block will create a gap between the fence and the blade wider than the diagonal dimension of the cut piece. (hope that makes sense)
Ahhh about that. Welcome to Australia. Everything is 240V. And I'm also the lucky few with 3 phase in my tiny workshop.
Scotland is same 240 standard 110v have a breaker box. I have most my tools 240 or cordless but do run few 110v
Thank you, Ben, for the shout out on my mobile base build video! I wondered where that view count bump came from--I owe you one, brother.
So we get a table saw review, tips on choosing a table saw, and tips on using a table saw. Really three videos in one. Woby is for the people. I'm over here rocking a vintage 80's Craftsman saw with 12" blade and direct drive. In my old house and shop, I wired in 220V power for it, but now, I have to swap with my dryer. This saw has no riving knives. They are incorporated with the blade shroud, which was missing when I got it. No dust extraction, though I could probably DIY it by building a cabinet in the legs. It has the worst fence in the history of table saw fences. But I live with it because it's the saw that I have. Harvey has been getting a lot of good press lately. I'll put them on my shopping list for when I'm ready to spring for a new table saw. Thanks for sharing!
The low fence position allows the fence to get closer to the blade while still using the overhead blade guard since the blade guard slider will ride on top of the fence. Also for certain cuts you have more room for a hand/jig/push block riding on top of the extrusion in the low position. The minimum cfm recommended is 470cfm but a lot of how good the suction performance is also is the static pressure. Issue a lot of collectors have is either high cfm and low pressure so poor performance even with high airflow stats, or high pressure and almost no airflow like how the oneida supercell is less 500cfm so it pulls hard but doesnt move much air. Harvey G700/800 are a balance of good cfm/pressure for 1 light industrial machine.
Thanks Ben, this is good stuff, im still at the green ryobi on a stand stage, it has politely scratched my finger and given me a few kickbacks. A lot for me to take onboard here. Thanks again.
Free-hand cutting on a table saw is common on jobsites because it's the fastest, cleanest way to make a slightly angled cut along the length of a board. It's not so dangerous if you know what you're doing and the scribe is very gradual; otherwise, a jigsaw or bandsaw is in order.
The front of the auxiliary guide should be a maximum of 10 mm beyond the point where the saw blade cuts the wood to its full height. If the auxiliary guide extends further, the risk of the workpiece getting stuck between the saw blade and the auxiliary guide increases. And futher more you will have less deflection
Well put. You can skimp on price/quality for tools that won't take your fingers off. This isn't one of those times.
Low fence is a nice feature if you use the dust hood over the blade. That way if you cut a thin strip you can keep it on and have more room for a push stick.
I should’ve been using it like that…
I use the low fence all the time, especially with plywood and/or narrow cuts. Allows more space to hold the push block. In fact, I'd say I rarely use the taller fence side--maybe only for cutting a board on edge?
Hey, just jumping in right after watching your question regarding the low fence!
I use the blade guard on my saw (a Metabo contractor's saw that's common in Europe), and the low fence feature is great for ripping thin strips. It lets me get my push stick in there, which would otherwise get jammed between the guard and fence.
I don't know of any other uses! It does limit my fence jig capabilities.
That makes sense… I should’ve been using the low fence setting
Low fence is when you feed thin stuff and need to work with hands/holddowns between fence and blade….
Situation like 30:10
I have the same saw. I'm going to vouch for the fact that the dust collection is poor. Yes you can overpower its shortcomings with moar horse power. But the 4HP model is 100% more effective at collecting dust.
Here's some tips for boosting your dust collection on this particular model:
- Use spray foam around the cast iron top where it meats the cabinet.
- Use gaffer tape to seal the raise/lower crank opening. If you use real gaffer tape, you can remove it for bevel cuts w.o leaving residue
- Seal the bottom of this saw with a cut board. The bottom of these 2hp saws is wide open, you need to seal all the areas that aren't the throat, in order to focus all suction at that port.
For anyone telling me that I shouldn't seal the cabinet I have to say that I already did, and my dust collection was greatly improved. Additionally I made my own throat plate which has the same open port area as the 4" dust collection hose.
The overhead dust collection does almost nothing. It's best to seal that up as well.
Sorry, but, at 11:28, the fence definitely move when you shake it with your hands, to the point that you clamped down the fence further and then it was OK. BTW, your presentation is the most complete and the most honest I have seen.
Mounted my router to the opposite side (router works on either side). Then just side the rails down and center of gravity no longer an issue
Blade hight adjustment is serious stuff if you wanna get the most out of your blade… the longer the cut is (low blade) the faster your blade gets dull…
I've been salivating over the Harvey for a while and am pretty sure it's going to be what I end up purchasing soon. I'm just going to go with the non-gold top and then ceramic coat it or something myself. I love the look of the gold top, the TiN coating looks awesome but I can't justify the extra $500 for just a coating. I did hear they are working on another new coating too, not exactly sure what it's going to be but it's supposed to be low friction and rust inhibiting as well. IMO Harvey is definitely the bet buy right now if you're looking for this type of saw. The amount of adjustments you can do with it, the quality of the fence and miter gauge is on another planet compared to the competition.
Yeah, don’t get the TiN top, I did and regret it. It rusted first week I had it and the top now looks like a mess. Plus it’s not slippery smooth like a cast iron top.
When I bought my Harvey router table extension it came with a nice extruded aluminum leg that is meant to screw into the bottom of the cast iron extension. I guess my point is, just make a simple leg under the tippy end of the saw. Also, don't replace those filters, just blow compressed air at them from the outside and then clean that dust out from the bottom.
I think that’s EXACTLY what I said in the video
@@WobyDesign lol, shows how well I payed attention. 🙄
First time watching your channel. I really like your style.
I just sold my Harvey table saw because it was JUNK! Dust collection doesn't work well, there was something wrong with the fence I couldn't figure out, and there was missing parts to the belt adjustment part. Just couldn't continue to love it.
What did you get instead?
I bought a Grizzly just to hold me over until I can afford a sliding table saw.
I had the Harvey Alpha and couldn't fault it. Amazing bit of kit. But unfortunately I had to move to a smaller shop and had to sell it.
The only problem I had was that the top rusted through the gold. But Harvey realised it was a fault in the coating and send a replacement to Australia for me at no charge.
Oh really? Mine also rusted after a week of having it. I never contacted Harvey or the store I purchased it from. Maybe I should have. 🤷♀️ The top looks like a mess now.
Did you get yours from Gregory Machinary?
@@jac_builtWoodworks yes I did. They were very helpful in replacing the top. There was an early batch that had the top layer poorly installed at the factory and Harvey were happy to replace the whole top.
@@curtturtle I wish I had contacted them now, it's too late, I've had mine about a year and a half now. 🤷♀
@@jac_builtWoodworks it is a warranty request on a manufacturing defect. You are absolutely in your right to request a fix. The team at Gregorys are lovely. Give them a call. Explain your situation and they are bound to help.
I'm sure this is an unbiased review.
hmm, the router table wouldn't go on the other side?
which model tablesaw is this?
I’m pretty sure that your old Grizzly saw is also made by Harvey. In fact it is just the previous model to what you currently have.
Didn’t know that!
Love your work !
What did you spray on the surface of the saw, was it T9 ?
Dry lubricant, link on the description!
The 'low' fence setting is for getting the fence really close to the blade when using the blade guard, which of course no one in the US ever uses because presumably you don't cut and bleed like most other human beings.
WHAT THE F*CK IS A CENTIMETER?! 🇺🇸🦅
@@WobyDesign Riving knife - safety. Stability - safety. Parallel fence - safety. Blade guard, "Oh, I don't use that, it gets in the way."
It's your fingers mate, not mine.
Love your channel and creations by the way. 👍👍
This is a well known design that they copied form the Delta Unifence, which was copied from European fences. Plenty of people in the US have been using it for decades.
@@WobyDesigncentimetre is the correct measurements!!🏴👍
Using gloves with a tool?! 🤦♂... That's a lesson you'll never forget. Nice that all that turn allright.
Great video
Great video oh btw my name isnt @jimmydiresta either. Wish it was hes a wizard with a table saw. Great information would love one these saws dont think they ship to Scotland!😕🏴👍
Thanks 👍
Awesome video as usual!!!
why don't you build a pillar leg for the saw ? A pillar leg is hollow made from 3/4 inch particle board it is strong to support weight ! answer to your problem
So do I understand that Harvey Woodworking sent you the table saw? Hmm... that wouldn't skew anything would it?
Ok don’t watch it then you sheep
Here is my issue with Harvey, Saw Stop etc.. For each saw they give away or discount, ,the rest of us pay for it.
I do have a Saw stop Job Site Pro.. it is anything but pro. It is a mid range saw with a safety device.
The quality is on par with the $500 saws.. unfortunately, the Saw Stop is $1500.
Additionally their "customer service" is on par with the quality of the saw., if not worse.
If I were to buy a job site saw again, no question it would be a MAKITA.
I primarily want accuracy and dependability.. Saw Stop is neither and the reason I am looking at Harvey.
I down sized to the Job Site because of available space My 3 horse, 3 belt drive, 12", sliding table saw
did not fit my current shop. I can now fit a standard sized proper table saw.. but not what I had.
The Saw Stop will be sacrificed . Your Harvey 2HP is about right.
Good video as always.
so many cut edits. felt like I was on drugs
You’re welcome for the free hit
@@WobyDesign 😆😂
Personally I value my time and appreciate the edits, gets to the point faster🤙🏼
@@WobyDesign I applaud you, Ben. It's a TON of work to do all that editing!
Too much talk...
The title of this video is literally “ I have a lot to say”. Mark ass
Don't wear gloves!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!