I worry that there is no bonding agent to adhere the new mud to old dry concrete. Just a little water needs to get between the new and old concrete, freeze in the winter, expand and then crack your work. Each thaw and freeze will eventually find you needing a new repair.
Very simple yet very effective method and very simply explained. My kind of guy. Thank you sir for taking the time to make and explain this video. 👍👍👍👍👍
It's all about the rebar. You give me inspiration to work better. My concrete gets big cracks that I have pounded in big nails and lay rebar but never wired them. I filled joints in the spring that have already cracked and its the fall. My concrete problems stem from living on a river that has flooded in the past over my concrete patio. We even had an earthquake. I have watched videos of how Mt. Rushmore is maintained where they use caulk and have thought about doing it for my cracks which are ever expanding.I want to thank you for an informative video series.
My house is no older than 15 years yet the stairs outside look a lot more awful than here. Previous owner tried to cover the stairs in tiles for a few times but they kept coming off. I wish I would have the confidence of this man to repair them myself.
all the internet experts in the comments section judging a little harshly. give the guy a break, he did a pretty good job. dont like his technique? click on a different video - oh and since many of you are self professed pros - what are doing here in the first place? here to be negative, toot your own horns & get some desperately needed attention,i guess. i suggest you start your own youtube pages. he is not repairing the sistene chapel here...did you see the condition of the stairs? nothing fancy...and the repairs are largely cosmetic and do not include any contact surfaces. the fact that he didnt wet the opposing surface - and possibly may have used a little too much water in the mix, as others have said here - actually worked out..some water will be drawn out of the mix - and onto/into the old structure - and boom...he wet the opposing surface! lol - and the steel reinforcement was great.
He seems well intentioned, but some of the comments are valid, like dampening the bonding surface before applying the cement/ mortar....very important. He went to the trouble of installing rebar, but skipped that vital step...unbelievable. That's why the mortar was falling out as he was putting it in...it wasn't bonding. Think about it...if you're applying wet cement to a dry porous surface, it's going to want to absorb the moisture from the cement and you will have no bond. The mix also looked a bit dry...another reason why it was falling out.
Great videos... I don't have this particular issue but I am watching because your great personality and the tips and tricks you know. Books only say so much but the real time saver is in the experience. Thanks for sharing!
For the comments about rebar and freeze-thaw etc. use some rebar expoxy coating to keep it from rusting when the inevitable hairline crack gets in there. Once that oxidation gets going, the chemical reaction between the iron bar and the portland cement will just keep going. Plain-ol' concrete will keep soaking up moisture for years untill it is finally cured. for stuff this size, I'll make a little latice with 3/8" rebar tied together and vibrate it a bit to get any voids to fill in. If doing an 8" high area, use 2 4" pieces for the form. put in the lower half and get that packed and 'vibrated' a bit and then pack in the top half and put on the upper piece of the form.
@@How2BeReal I wouldn't go that far. Quite a few failures building concrete sculptures and repairing old steps/sidewalks, etc. in the upper midwest where freeze/thaw and salt really gets into the concrete.
Not bad , the rebar is crucial, i would have added weldcrete or any concrete glue prior though, i like to make my mud a little more dry and add an accelerant, pop off forms and skim it with cement and sand to make it look smooth
One thing to add for those not used to dealing with concrete: it is somewhat caustic and can cause chemical burns. Wear gloves and keep your hands clean when working with it.
Why bother with the rebar if you don't have a bonding agent? You have to use epoxy concrete repair with a bonding agent or as others have said the thing will fall apart with water and/or frost.
If you don't have bonding agent at least make a paint of portland cement and water to coat the area and work your concrete repair material into that. That is what guys did when I was young. I have heard some say that adding some glue ie bonding agent in place of part of the water works better than either the portland paint or just the bonding agent.
nice video... one thing: isn't it better to wet the old concrete with water like he did with the wood (stairs and ground) before pouring the new concrete?
ABSOLUTELY!!! Not just wet the old concrete, but throw in some bonding liquid to the mix and to the surface of the old concrete to help the two bond together.
good tips. I'd add that mixing the concrete is faster with a cordless drill and a paint mixer attachment (looks like a turbine fan-like piece on a long 18" metal rod). Its not a great solution for large batches, but for a small project like this (or for doing fence posts) its perfect. :)
I love your personality; I do; I really do. But the concrete kept falling out of the top because there was no bond. We're supposed to wet the concrete, not saturate it but wet it all so that the new concrete sticks to the old concrete. You can use a bonding agent if you want to do over-kill but yeah, just moisten the concrete before adding the new concrete. You do great videos but I am guessing that you haven't worked a whole lot with concrete or it's just been so long since you did that you just forgot that step. Love to you and your video. Big Hugs for doing such a hard job as an old fart. I'm an old sparkle, female version of an old fart. LOL I'm working on my front steps right now but it keeps raining. I just need a couple of not raining days to finish this job. I'm having to add a bottom step, a fourth step since these had apparently sunk into the ground a bit, making me have to add 4 inches to each step. So, I'm using 12 X 8 X 4 inch blocks to help to make up the difference since I can't afford to pay someone to build a new form nor can I mix up that much concrete to fill the forms up after first would have had to knock the old steps down. If I didn't used to live in Philadelphia then I never would have known how to do this. City construction just about, always includes doing some concrete work outside and on porches and steps. Thanks for your video. I hope that I didn't hurt your feelings; I love love love your videos and I have learned a whole lot from you; Like when cutting a board to hold it at an angle so that when pushing the saw doesn't push my board away. That always happens to me and was super awkward for me. Thanks a million times for that.
My scenario, sidewalk curb is actually higher than slightly sunken/cracked slob/sidewalk and I like to make it even again. Can I lay rapid set cement over then paint it with two coats of portland cement and then spray it with concrete sealer. Should I use rapid set cement alone or add some sand to prevent cracking.
Nice job, and info info thanks, I am going to try and repair a step , with a hole in it , on the face, problem is theres nothing for the concrete to bond to, the cement i think will just fall threw the opening, and the thickness of the hole , is only about 1/2 in think,,,,
what we do is to place an overlapped backside form on the hole add a exterior cement in the hole from the front. if the hole is direct weather exposure you could use a sealer on the patch once it has cured.
If the hole is too small to do that just roll the screen into a ball and shove it into the hole, then use the needle technique again to hold it. Any one of these processes will probably be a 2 step process allowing the first step to dry so the screen will remain in place, and then doing a finish job over top.
great vid what type of concrete? I need to put down a threshold at garage door approx. 1 1/2 high 6" wide and 16' long any suggestions on what type of concrete I should use or should I just use cement all product.
Thanks @How2BeReal, 208,273 views! You may double that if you can correct the title typo, "Conrete." Thanks again. I'm sending this to a friend who has steps to repair.
I would say shoot some fluted masonry nails into the existing concrete. Because we all know new concrete will not bond to old concrete. Wetting the old concrete only makes the seem easier to close up. even the bonding agents suck. so drill some short rebar, or drive cut nails in it to keep the bond.
Instead of mixing the concrete with water use Pepsi the acid in Pepsi that usually eats your stomach lining will strengthen the mix to a like steel construction and make sure you sprinkle crushed Doritos and Reese's pieces on top to give a unique look.
Hello If you can get behind it try putting some coarse sreen behind and pushing the concrete through it. If you can't get behind it but the hole is large you can cut a piece of sreen larger than the hole, then loosely roll it and push it through the hole, then use a knitting needle with the little hook on the end to pull the screen towards you while pushing some concrete through it.
That's a terrible method of repairing or patching concrete,the surfaces were not bonded ,sealed or dampened to allow sufficient bond of new and old concrete. This will ultimately fail when water ingresses into the cracks and frost will take care of the rest.
Mix was too loose. I used to do concrete repair for a living, and this is also a case of incomplete preparation. I'd also recommend using a concrete mixer. The line between too dry and too loose is too important to just throw in a gallon of water. One more thing: what if there wasn't the concrete base underneath? I'd drill into the existing concrete. Better still... just use the concrete saw and a sledgehammer with a wedge, and replace the old steps. Sometimes you've got to just replace something like the above.
It's good that your repair held. However, it's a fact that taking out the old steps and just pouring new ones would be my cure for that situation. I'm also wondering if you're in a cold area, with lots of freeze/thaw cycles. In any case, the work involved in that repair seems more of a hassle than just breaking up the old stuff and start with new.
soco13466 New steps would be great, but some people can afford $25 much easier than $250. Plus there are those that don't have the equipment it takes to do what you proposed, & aren't about to go out and purchase it for one little repair. I never meant it to be the only answer to the problem, only one alternative that fixed it on a minimum budget.
+Trevor Lowe !!! You are correct he did not dampen the area or use a bonding agent. The area also looks dirty with all sorts of loose material present which will affect the bond greatly. Coat the forms with either PAM Cooking Spray or WD40. To finish the area remove the forms after 30 min to an hour and check to see if it is still slumping(temp and humidity will factor on time). if the repair slumps replace the forms and check every 20 min. finish by wetting an inexpensive paint brush and brushing the surface. This will give the surface a clean texture and blend any imperfections without over working the material.
I mean no disrespect, but you remind me of Burt Ives aka Sam the Snowman from the 1964 film, Rudolph the Red-Nose Reindeer film. Your voice print matches his also. Thanks for sharing your experience.
A good techniek to do the job for those rough steps. But, I would have taken the form off in 2-3 hours to do a finish touch up. That would be my Tail Light warranty
I too have been in the field of General Contracting for 20 years, why would you install lags when you could drive bent 3/8"rebar into the anchor holes (he's actually holding 3/8" rebar not 1/2") also just call a ready-mixed company, The consistency is the single most important factor of a quality finish when talking any masonry finish. mixing it yourself is a lot of work & very very expensive compared to calling a concrete company. Also if you are in region 4 (upper midwest USA) the extremes of seasonal weather (Summer HEAT & Blizzards of winter) these extreme weather conditions will diminish the longevity of any exterior products.
"The way it keeps falling back outta there is why we use a form." Your mix looks very dry. It's falling out because the bonding surface wasn't dampened first. You must wet the surface or the new mix wont stick.
you're right. I actually did wet it but forgot to put that in the video. However it has been I guess about 7 years or so now and the patch job is still holding. Praise God for small favors!
I'll put the finish coat on for better adhesion when the initial application of the mixed cement is about 80 % cured (hardened). Wetting ever so slightly with a paint brush just prior also helps. This minimizes "short term" chipping away and increases the life expectancy of the finish coat onto the original application.
Thank you for the tips I wish my god damned father could have taught me this shit .. I am very thankful that you made this video. Your a good man... Your Method will work for a rental we have and will save us a pretty penny for sure Thanks again .. And all you little sissy Girls dont forget gloves so you dont get your nails dirty lol
@@How2BeReal I guess so. I'm sure you know how it breaks down and rusts, etc causing concrete to crack. 9 years is decent for a patch, so when it fails at least you got your money's worth.
@@diz0baby Hi Dan, It only rusts if it comes into contact with the ground, or the concrete cracks allowing moisture and air to come into contact with it. I have taken 30 year old concrete apart and found the rebar in good if not perfect condition.
@@How2BeReal True. Not everyone lives in the freeze thaw nightmare that I do. Glad it worked for you. Everyone does it differently and what works in one area doesn't necessarily work in another.
I worry that there is no bonding agent to adhere the new mud to old dry concrete. Just a little water needs to get between the new and old concrete, freeze in the winter, expand and then crack your work. Each thaw and freeze will eventually find you needing a new repair.
I forgot to show that
@@How2BeReal Oh...good that you did it. The house I moved into didn't and the sidewalk repairs are a mess and now my problem.
Thanks so much! Videos like these are saving me from crazy small job prices. Plus I get the satisfaction of learning a new skill.
Very simple yet very effective method and very simply explained. My kind of guy. Thank you sir for taking the time to make and explain this video. 👍👍👍👍👍
It's all about the rebar. You give me inspiration to work better. My concrete gets big cracks that I have pounded in big nails and lay rebar but never wired them. I filled joints in the spring that have already cracked and its the fall. My concrete problems stem from living on a river that has flooded in the past over my concrete patio. We even had an earthquake. I have watched videos of how Mt. Rushmore is maintained where they use caulk and have thought about doing it for my cracks which are ever expanding.I want to thank you for an informative video series.
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My house is no older than 15 years yet the stairs outside look a lot more awful than here. Previous owner tried to cover the stairs in tiles for a few times but they kept coming off. I wish I would have the confidence of this man to repair them myself.
Grow a pair and just go for it
Always formed and poured but hey man that is another good way . nice vid man i too have worked as bricklayer for over 40 years !
all the internet experts in the comments section judging a little harshly. give the guy a break, he did a pretty good job.
dont like his technique? click on a different video - oh and since many of you are self professed pros - what are doing here in the first place? here to be negative, toot your own horns & get some desperately needed attention,i guess.
i suggest you start your own youtube pages.
he is not repairing the sistene chapel here...did you see the condition of the stairs? nothing fancy...and the repairs are largely cosmetic and do not include any contact surfaces.
the fact that he didnt wet the opposing surface - and possibly may have used a little too much water in the mix, as others have said here - actually worked out..some water will be drawn out of the mix - and onto/into the old structure - and
boom...he wet the opposing surface! lol - and the steel reinforcement was great.
He seems well intentioned, but some of the comments are valid, like dampening the bonding surface before applying the cement/ mortar....very important. He went to the trouble of installing rebar, but skipped that vital step...unbelievable. That's why the mortar was falling out as he was putting it in...it wasn't bonding. Think about it...if you're applying wet cement to a dry porous surface, it's going to want to absorb the moisture from the cement and you will have no bond. The mix also looked a bit dry...another reason why it was falling out.
TheAgentOfTruth, go fuck yourself! Its the comment section not only comments I like section. Put your big girl panties on and toughen up
You know when you've been told to "put on your big girl panties" you're in a rough crowd.
Great videos... I don't have this particular issue but I am watching because your great personality and the tips and tricks you know. Books only say so much but the real time saver is in the experience. Thanks for sharing!
For the comments about rebar and freeze-thaw etc. use some rebar expoxy coating to keep it from rusting when the inevitable hairline crack gets in there. Once that oxidation gets going, the chemical reaction between the iron bar and the portland cement will just keep going.
Plain-ol' concrete will keep soaking up moisture for years untill it is finally cured. for stuff this size, I'll make a little latice with 3/8" rebar tied together and vibrate it a bit to get any voids to fill in. If doing an 8" high area, use 2 4" pieces for the form. put in the lower half and get that packed and 'vibrated' a bit and then pack in the top half and put on the upper piece of the form.
Wow sounds like you know what you're doing. Thanks for the tips
@@How2BeReal I wouldn't go that far. Quite a few failures building concrete sculptures and repairing old steps/sidewalks, etc. in the upper midwest where freeze/thaw and salt
really gets into the concrete.
Not bad , the rebar is crucial, i would have added weldcrete or any concrete glue prior though, i like to make my mud a little more dry and add an accelerant, pop off forms and skim it with cement and sand to make it look smooth
That's a good idea!
Mr. Howard, I can certainly tell that I will see you in heaven some day. God bless you too, and thanks for the video.
Thanks for the repair video old timer, I wish you'd make more videos and share some more of your knowledge with us.
Thanks for the video much needed info steps to repair after this snow
Really impressive demonstrated video showing how to decorate and proper utilize a small room. Nice work.
I really appreciate this video. I hope to repair my steps in my 1950s house and I can not afford a concrete person. this helps very much
Why didn’t you wet the existing surface first?
Nice job,When I do this kind of work I mix a slurry and brush it on the surfaces first.
One thing to add for those not used to dealing with concrete: it is somewhat caustic and can cause chemical burns. Wear gloves and keep your hands clean when working with it.
I will try your mixing method next time.. much better than mine
Mike Hadock would always say, “If you want it to stick, wet it”
First
Before u apply new concrete or anything else after u clean this place you have to put spray water on place where is coming new concrete.
yep good advice
Great video and awesome information.
Why bother with the rebar if you don't have a bonding agent? You have to use epoxy concrete repair with a bonding agent or as others have said the thing will fall apart with water and/or frost.
If you don't have bonding agent at least make a paint of portland cement and water to coat the area and work your concrete repair material into that. That is what guys did when I was young. I have heard some say that adding some glue ie bonding agent in place of part of the water works better than either the portland paint or just the bonding agent.
Should wet concrete 1st or use bonding agent before placing concrete. Great job with the lag screws and rebar!
yep
great job...suggest pva adhesive before throwing concrete in..bonds better.
You must make it wet surface before apply of the concrete cement!
nice video... one thing: isn't it better to wet the old concrete with water like he did with the wood (stairs and ground) before pouring the new concrete?
ABSOLUTELY!!! Not just wet the old concrete, but throw in some bonding liquid to the mix and to the surface of the old concrete to help the two bond together.
yes, forgot to show it
Great job man. Im a concrete builder too. This is also a easy and good way to do this repair for the self fixer. ☺️👍
ALWAYS WET THE SURFACE THAT THE CONCRETE IS ADHERING TO
!! CMON MAN!!!
FYI,, Wet cement will not adhere to dry dirty cement for very long. I hope you're good friends with the homeowner..
good tips.
I'd add that mixing the concrete is faster with a cordless drill and a paint mixer attachment (looks like a turbine fan-like piece on a long 18" metal rod). Its not a great solution for large batches, but for a small project like this (or for doing fence posts) its perfect. :)
It's been 7 yrs now.
. Can u do an update video on how the step looks??????
Thanks for the insight Bro I'll be fixing my basement stairs this weekend God willing
Is regular concrete mix the best thing to use for a repair job like this?
Great video, when I did the work my cement came with a brownish color instead of gray, what did I do wrong?
no idea what would cause that unless you used too much sand or there was a dye in the mix
I love your personality; I do; I really do. But the concrete kept falling out of the top because there was no bond. We're supposed to wet the concrete, not saturate it but wet it all so that the new concrete sticks to the old concrete. You can use a bonding agent if you want to do over-kill but yeah, just moisten the concrete before adding the new concrete. You do great videos but I am guessing that you haven't worked a whole lot with concrete or it's just been so long since you did that you just forgot that step. Love to you and your video. Big Hugs for doing such a hard job as an old fart. I'm an old sparkle, female version of an old fart. LOL I'm working on my front steps right now but it keeps raining. I just need a couple of not raining days to finish this job. I'm having to add a bottom step, a fourth step since these had apparently sunk into the ground a bit, making me have to add 4 inches to each step. So, I'm using 12 X 8 X 4 inch blocks to help to make up the difference since I can't afford to pay someone to build a new form nor can I mix up that much concrete to fill the forms up after first would have had to knock the old steps down. If I didn't used to live in Philadelphia then I never would have known how to do this. City construction just about, always includes doing some concrete work outside and on porches and steps.
Thanks for your video. I hope that I didn't hurt your feelings; I love love love your videos and I have learned a whole lot from you; Like when cutting a board to hold it at an angle so that when pushing the saw doesn't push my board away. That always happens to me and was super awkward for me. Thanks a million times for that.
You're right, I forgot to wet it first, but so far they're still holding up. Thanks for all your comments
It appears that too much water was added to the concrete at 4:08 and then at 4:17 it shows a much thicker, dryer batch in the wheelbarrow.
??
Didn't agree with the procedure completely ....but what a great guy !
Great video! Very cool! Thank you!
My scenario, sidewalk curb is actually higher than slightly sunken/cracked slob/sidewalk and I like to make it even again. Can I lay rapid set cement over then paint it with two coats of portland cement and then spray it with concrete sealer. Should I use rapid set cement alone or add some sand to prevent cracking.
As you said you were well experience with a concrete work how come you did not wet the surface
Nice job, and info info thanks, I am going to try and repair a step , with a hole in it , on the face, problem is theres nothing for the concrete to bond to, the cement i think will just fall threw the opening, and the thickness of the hole , is only about 1/2 in think,,,,
what we do is to place an overlapped backside form on the hole
add a exterior cement in the hole from the front.
if the hole is direct weather exposure you could use a sealer on the patch once it has cured.
If the hole is too small to do that just roll the screen into a ball and shove it into the hole, then use the needle technique again to hold it. Any one of these processes will probably be a 2 step process allowing the first step to dry so the screen will remain in place, and then doing a finish job over top.
If you're the old fart, your son must be the new fart, and his son, the newer fart
LOL
@barrylee55 Thanks for your comments. I will try the pva adhesive on the next one. It's always great to learn new tricks!
great vid what type of concrete? I need to put down a threshold at garage door approx. 1 1/2 high 6" wide and 16' long any suggestions on what type of concrete I should use or should I just use cement all product.
wow i finally found an good imformative video without annoying music !
Thanks @How2BeReal, 208,273 views! You may double that if you can correct the title typo, "Conrete." Thanks again. I'm sending this to a friend who has steps to repair.
It doesn't look like you wet the concrete first it makes stick better when it is wet.
you r correct Tim, didn't show it. but should have. thanks for bringing that up, others will benefit from your comment.
what kind/type of concrete is best for this type of repair?
Can i ask why sand wasn't mixed in with the concrete mix? Nice vid btw.....I definitely need it!
the mix had sand in it already
can you make some videos on how to do plumbing or electrical to ?
I would say shoot some fluted masonry nails into the existing concrete. Because we all know new concrete will not bond to old concrete. Wetting the old concrete only makes the seem easier to close up. even the bonding agents suck. so drill some short rebar, or drive cut nails in it to keep the bond.
Is that rebar too close to the surface or no?
It is more than 2" from the surface
thanks for your help , I ll try this and let you know how things turn out , Rick
does the home owners ins cover any of that
Most likely no but even if it did wouldn't be worth the deductible.
Instead of mixing the concrete with water use Pepsi the acid in Pepsi that usually eats your stomach lining will strengthen the mix to a like steel construction and make sure you sprinkle crushed Doritos and Reese's pieces on top to give a unique look.
Diamond Carwash ok
lmao
Hyphy mud
Put fecies in it also and some urine
Hello If you can get behind it try putting some coarse sreen behind and pushing the concrete through it. If you can't get behind it but the hole is large you can cut a piece of sreen larger than the hole, then loosely roll it and push it through the hole, then use a knitting needle with the little hook on the end to pull the screen towards you while pushing some concrete through it.
What about this kind older. Where is he....
That's a terrible method of repairing or patching concrete,the surfaces were not bonded ,sealed or dampened to allow sufficient bond of new and old concrete. This will ultimately fail when water ingresses into the cracks and frost will take care of the rest.
Mix was too loose. I used to do concrete repair for a living, and this is also a case of incomplete preparation. I'd also recommend using a concrete mixer. The line between too dry and too loose is too important to just throw in a gallon of water. One more thing: what if there wasn't the concrete base underneath? I'd drill into the existing concrete. Better still... just use the concrete saw and a sledgehammer with a wedge, and replace the old steps. Sometimes you've got to just replace something like the above.
Trevor _ Soco, guess what... 4 & 1/2 years later and it's still holding up. Soco I guess you didn't see where I drilled into the old concrete??
It's good that your repair held. However, it's a fact that taking out the old steps and just pouring new ones would be my cure for that situation. I'm also wondering if you're in a cold area, with lots of freeze/thaw cycles. In any case, the work involved in that repair seems more of a hassle than just breaking up the old stuff and start with new.
soco13466 New steps would be great, but some people can afford $25 much easier than $250. Plus there are those that don't have the equipment it takes to do what you proposed, & aren't about to go out and purchase it for one little repair. I never meant it to be the only answer to the problem, only one alternative that fixed it on a minimum budget.
+Trevor Lowe !!! You are correct he did not dampen the area or use a bonding agent. The area also looks dirty with all sorts of loose material present which will affect the bond greatly. Coat the forms with either PAM Cooking Spray or WD40. To finish the area remove the forms after 30 min to an hour and check to see if it is still slumping(temp and humidity will factor on time). if the repair slumps replace the forms and check every 20 min. finish by wetting an inexpensive paint brush and brushing the surface. This will give the surface a clean texture and blend any imperfections without over working the material.
Should have at least used concrete binder or at the very least water,to that old existent concrete....
I did, just forgot to show it.
Wet the area next time... the moisture will help the new concrete stick to the old concrete better
Yep, you are right. Thanks
I mean no disrespect, but you remind me of Burt Ives aka Sam the Snowman from the 1964 film, Rudolph the Red-Nose Reindeer film. Your voice print matches his also. Thanks for sharing your experience.
RINGER! Absolutely, the exact same voice.
@@pjandbmx Burl Ives
it wouldnt fall back out of there if you used a peanut butter coat and wetted the concrete first..
good job partner
I will take a guess that you are from the PITTSBURGH area?
Looks Good but probably should of wet it first
You're right I forgot
A good techniek to do the job for those rough steps. But, I would have taken the form off in 2-3 hours to do a finish touch up. That would be my Tail Light warranty
I haven't used any hoes in a long time what kind of wire did you use on those lag bolts Doctor?
I too have been in the field of General Contracting for 20 years, why would you install lags when you could drive bent 3/8"rebar into the anchor holes (he's actually holding 3/8" rebar not 1/2") also just call a ready-mixed company, The consistency is the single most important factor of a quality finish when talking any masonry finish. mixing it yourself is a lot of work & very very expensive compared to calling a concrete company. Also if you are in region 4 (upper midwest USA) the extremes of seasonal weather (Summer HEAT & Blizzards of winter) these extreme weather conditions will diminish the longevity of any exterior products.
Yeah he should have gotten a 10 yard mixer truck for a wheel barrow of concrete for sure.
And a pump
5:47 "Come on, stay in there you"...
Could have pushed a pile of "conrete" into the space with that form
Juan Cabeza that is what she didn't say
therad catman good!
"The way it keeps falling back outta there is why we use a form."
Your mix looks very dry. It's falling out because the bonding surface wasn't dampened first. You must wet the surface or the new mix wont stick.
That's too much water you're mixing bro. That's why you seem to struggle patching
why no bonding agent or wetting the concrete?
Forgot senior moment
1 big mistake I see here and that is he didn't wet the existing concrete before adding the new concrete.
you're right. I actually did wet it but forgot to put that in the video. However it has been I guess about 7 years or so now and the patch job is still holding. Praise God for small favors!
I need to watch and learn from this video.
Il a l'air tellement convaincu mais il est impératif de se trouver un autre passe temps !
very good thanks!
I agree with Jose Arroyo.
bad mix and bad setup will be broken in less then 2 years
Well then Jose why don't you make a video or at least tell how you would do it.
3 years Jose and it's still nice and strong. Looks good too!
Great job!
Creative addtion...
O-ld
F-arts
F-ix
I-t
C-orner
Welcome to the OFFICE! Love it, put it on a shirt - merchandise sales!
Beton trzeba nawilżyć wodą aby złapał z cementem
I'll put the finish coat on for better adhesion when the initial application of the mixed cement is about 80 % cured (hardened). Wetting ever so slightly with a paint brush just prior also helps. This minimizes "short term" chipping away and increases the life expectancy of the finish coat onto the original application.
Thank you. I wish you could come do my steps.
OMG I've seen it all now
YER PACKING CEMENT INTO CLAY . 3 MONTHS TOPS... REPETE
Was by there in 2019, everything still looked great. Guess I'm just blessed.
Love you
Oh boy! Not good. You need to wet the old concrete to create a better bond or use some bonding agent.
where the hell do you find these armatures, what a disgrace to a real tradesman
You seem to be a "armature" with the english language, what a disgrace to a real writer.
A real tradesmen isn't full of criticism, he's full of suggestions. Speaking from experience here.
you didnt wet it down first.quickcrete might make things better.use oil on forms.
If you’re making a video to show how something is to be done then do it right otherwise just don’t bother!
No good.. should had wet the area first
Thank you for the tips I wish my god damned father could have taught me this shit .. I am very thankful that you made this video. Your a good man... Your Method will work for a rental we have and will save us a pretty penny for sure Thanks again .. And all you little sissy Girls dont forget gloves so you dont get your nails dirty lol
Well I see rebar so I already know this is gonna fail....
Well this video was made 9 years ago and the steps are still holding up... Guess I got lucky;-)
@@How2BeReal I guess so. I'm sure you know how it breaks down and rusts, etc causing concrete to crack. 9 years is decent for a patch, so when it fails at least you got your money's worth.
@@diz0baby Hi Dan, It only rusts if it comes into contact with the ground, or the concrete cracks allowing moisture and air to come into contact with it. I have taken 30 year old concrete apart and found the rebar in good if not perfect condition.
@@How2BeReal True. Not everyone lives in the freeze thaw nightmare that I do. Glad it worked for you. Everyone does it differently and what works in one area doesn't necessarily work in another.
You had to wet it first
you're right
Burl Ives!
Rapid set cement all
And,,, FAIL....
Mad lad
Absolute rubbish,you should have wet /bonded before concreting
Ho and