In this video Brian demonstrates how to run flat boxes on ceilings If you're interested in any of the products we use in this video check out level5tools.com/?via=458362
How come when I run the box on 0 first coat and sand and skim then finish sand then after painting I can see the flat joints ?? But when I do all coats by hand I never have that problem ??
I've found when running it tight like 3 the transparency disappears as it dries. Put a trowel edge on it...don't want it humped it will show in a high exposure lighting situation.
Agree. I typically don't go by number on the back either. I go with what looks best on the seam. I frequently adjust my tension when boxing. Every flat box is different. Different thicknesses or types of mud affect the troweling bar differently. Plus wear and tear on blades. Definitely better to run a tighter coat than to overload and cause hummed joints. Especially on ceilings.
@@drywallnation 👍 Amen brotha. Not all joints are perfect fills. Box tuning/maintenance would make for a new video 😉👍 Hi from Vancouver btw...in association with that Label character on Bowen Island 🏝️ You got me onto buttboards a while back.
Depends if we're power sanding or pole sanding for pre-sand. Typically when pole sanding we use 120 gritt so we don't have to push as hard. Even if it scratches a bit it's okay because it will be covered with another coat of mud.
My partner and I just hung 200 sheets now we about to run our Level 5 set!!!
Nice work!!
Great explanation.
thank you my man
How come when I run the box on 0 first coat and sand and skim then finish sand then after painting I can see the flat joints ?? But when I do all coats by hand I never have that problem ??
hey i put new shoes and blades on my flat box it’s leaving a dry spot like the bored is messed up not sure if it’s the crown settings anyone know
How many different size flat box you run typically after taping?
Typically two coats after tape.
10" & 12".
I've found when running it tight like 3 the transparency disappears as it dries. Put a trowel edge on it...don't want it humped it will show in a high exposure lighting situation.
Agree. I typically don't go by number on the back either. I go with what looks best on the seam. I frequently adjust my tension when boxing. Every flat box is different. Different thicknesses or types of mud affect the troweling bar differently. Plus wear and tear on blades. Definitely better to run a tighter coat than to overload and cause hummed joints. Especially on ceilings.
@@drywallnation 👍 Amen brotha. Not all joints are perfect fills. Box tuning/maintenance would make for a new video 😉👍
Hi from Vancouver btw...in association with that Label character on Bowen Island 🏝️
You got me onto buttboards a while back.
@@BushmanCanuck Good idea. That would make a good video. And oh! Chris Labelle?
Is that nocoat for corner bead?
@@drywallnation yes Chris
What kind of grit do you sand with between coats?
Depends if we're power sanding or pole sanding for pre-sand. Typically when pole sanding we use 120 gritt so we don't have to push as hard. Even if it scratches a bit it's okay because it will be covered with another coat of mud.
I keep a blade in my back pocket to clean the lap joint when running the box, I guess every finisher has their preference!
Great video otherwise
“Butt” will those seem crack? I do believe the seams are supposed to be staggered.
I got taught that you should always stagger your joints to spread out the load
How much ?
Wish I was taller so I didn’t have to kill myself
How tall are you? They make pretty long handles.