Jeff, your video was very useful, my 13-year-old B&S 26hp engine is suddenly leaking a lot of oil. I cleaned the engine up enough to see that the sump pan gasket was the problem. I put a wrench on the bolts holding the sump to the block and I found that they had all worked themselves loose. I snugged them up and ran the mower for a bit and no more leaks. Time will tell, thanks again.
This is a great video. No loud music, just everyday logical mechanical work. Good tips, reference to B&S manual and torque info. I think I would change out the oil pump “O” ring, filter and any other parts that might have been practical while it was open as well. Great job though.
Dude, you probably saved me at least $500 with this video. A few years back, I decided that I could do these kinds of repair, but wasn’t comfortable. This video not only exactly diagnosed my problem with my lawn tractor engine, it also gave me the confidence to do this myself. Thank you!
Last weekend, oil was literally pouring out of my 2009 Husqvarna tractor with a bigger but almost exactly the same B&S engine. Bought the whole gasket kit, figuring why not replace everything I can while I have the motor off. Started up like a champ today and not a single drop of oil is leaking. Thanks again for a fantastic, comprehensive and really well-done video. Showing even your “errors” was extremely helpful. Wish I could link the video of my tractor firing up and running like a dream for you!
Take spark plug out so you can turn crank without compression to drop the bottom pan onto motor, a ton easier & less likely to fold main seal over itself,😉 great vid 👍
A truly great instructional video. I have to perform this repair and you have taken all the guessing out of the job. One thing I always do before taking anything apart is to hot pressure wash everything I can to make the work easier. Thanks for the help.
Wow, you sure have remained calm. Very impressed with the complexity of this repair. I have had my B&S Vanguard in the shop for the third replacement. Never used the mower, leaked when returned to my shed just sitting ! My luck.
Thank you for your video. I used it last week to replace the oil pan gasket and shaft seal on my mower. It was very helpful. Tips I would add for others using the video for reference would be to consider also changing the governor seal and the oil pump o-ring while you've got the pan off. The parts are cheap enough...
Thanks for sharing your work. I have a 24hp Briggs that's thrown oil for years. After cleaning it all up and running it for 10 minutes the gasket leak was obvious. Thanks to you I'll forge ahead with replacement.
I know it's been a year but I still want to thank you for this video. Ive got a craftsman gt5000 with the 22hp that's leaking bad. Got the parts in and I plan on attempting this on the upcoming weekend. Take care.
Nice video! I have a Husqvarna 23 hp Intek with 600+ hours. It was leaking in the exact place as the one in your video. I used Lucas oil leak stop , it worked great,the leak is completely stopped
I used Lucas Oil Leak Stop for this exact problem on a 2009, 23 Hp endeavor . Figured I,d try it first; Within 1 hour, the oil stopped leaking from the sump gasket!
I have the same problem, and thought it was most likely the crankshaft seal, after power washing all the dirt and oil off and running it a few minutes. I was thinking that top pulley spinning was what was throwing the oil everywhere. I can see clearly from your video that top drive pulley was dry on yours. I'm about to tackle this and was hoping to just get away with replacing the seal without splitting the bottom cover off. I now expect mine is leaking from that gasket too. So thanks very much this helps me so much to know what to look out for before tearing it apart.
Should be called "Breaks and Crappen"! Maybe they were a decent motor back in the day.. I have a ride on with 16hp Vanguard and less than 300hrs on it and so far one head gasket went at 106hrs and now I diagnosed a leaking sump gasket. There is a 100mm section where the oil is pissing from where the gasket is not even visible, just air gap and oil bubbling out. The reason they have to update these parts is cos they are shit to begin with. 1300hrs on my Honda powered mower and nothing but general service and valve adjustment. Thanks for the good video mate, looks like I'll need it tomorrow.
On my Husqvarna 2748 the engine leaked like this. I bought the parts but decided to tighten up the crankcase bolts all around the engine. Leaks almost completely gone. Thank you for your video. I’ll know what to do when I have to take it apart.
Same leak, same place in a newer 24hp. Seems to be a common fault with these motors. Mechanic friend did one motor 3 times and the same problem with a blown gasket each time. B and S told him the fourth time to permatex it. After the permatex, no more leaking.
This is what I do to the area where it AllWAYS leaks, use electric engraver and ruff up sump gasket area, it keeps gasket in place Done about 80 or more and no issues 😊😊
Good video but I would have stuck a bolt in the gas line to prevent leaks. I really like your oil drain adapter. I will have to make myself one of those. Thanks
Why not mark the cables with colored electrical tape wrapped around the cable and taping over the screw hole? I also put bolts and nuts back in holes to not lose or mix/match them.
Recently had a Vanguard V-Twin 35HP horizontal leaking oil at crankcase cover and PTO oil seal. This is on an new grain auger. After receiving replacement parts, removed the crankcase cover and found there was no gasket, just RTV silicone. The cover showed that the silicone had not stuck at the bottom and several other points of the cover, thus the leak. I assume, that the mating surfaces had oil residue so the silicone couldn't stick. The old oil seal showed evidence that it had flipped in two spots, thus another oil leak. This is a brand new engine, less than 10 hours, so right from factory. Ever seen NO gasket on the crankcase by Vanguard V-Twin?
yikes, That sounds not good. New engines usually have less than 1 hour run time. I have never seen that. The seal was flipped/no gasket... so sounds like someone was messing with it.
Could I send you 2 pics. I followed this video to remove the engine on my craftsman gt6000 26hp and on the oil pan sump assembly I found a screw in plug on the side just rear of the oil filter that was loose. I tightened it back up snug. Upon examining the cast aluminum assembly I saw a spiderwebbed looking cracking cluster but can’t tell if it was also leaking and is worth replacing or a normal thing?? Your videos are spot on and extremely helpful!
Appreciate you taking the time to do this video. Helped me a lot performing this same job on my 2003 Briggs 21 hp v-twin. After reinstalling the engine and starting white smoke pours out of the muffler area. Oil level is correct and at the full line. Wondering if perhaps oil somehow drained into the top of the engine and then collected inside the muffler upon initial startup ? Thought’s on what the issue might be ?
I have just this job and in my ignorance drove the seal all the way home! However I notice the hole would only be covered half way by the seal. OK do you think? Thanks for your vids, very detailed.
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice If it gets stuck just back up the motor to open the valve and take the rope out. The valves should be closed or closing when the piston comes up.
I would put the seal in last, tapping it in with a piece of plastic or metal pipe. That makes it easier to put over the shaft without flipping inside-out. Also, seals usually go in easily enough, and stay in more securely, without lubricating the outside of them. It looked like this engine has a ledge in the bottom of where the seal goes, so you just tap the seal against that. Otherwise, yes, just below flush. Too far and you plug that little drain hole.
Is it okay to use Permatex on the gasket? I was surprised you didn't use any. Going through all that work I would want to take every precaution I could so it wouldn't leak.
I just replaced the sump gasket and the crank seal put it all back together and the governor gernaded! I’m sure it was human error but do you happen to have any idea what I did wrong? I ordered a new governor and a new sump gasket.
when you put the cover back on make sure that the govenor lever in the cover mates up loosely with govenor cap in the case. It may have became bound up upon installation in your case.
question... whyd you take the oil pump out? If the shaft and motor never moved, you should be able to put it back together without removing the pump, no?
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice Might you have the part number for that oil pump O-Ring seal? If not, can you tell me what the engine model #, type #, and serial number is? I have a similar engine on a generac generator but B&S does not have a parts breakout for my engine but this engine you are working on is similar
Hi there, i have recently purchased a new Ferris 400s zero turn, it has a briggs 23hp commercial. I noticed when i received it from the dealer there seemed to be oil spray everywhere primarily all over the frame and deck area. I contacted the dealer and they said it comes shiped like that for better protection. So I thoroughly wiped down all areas. I then noticed after its first and again on the second use more oil spray over some areas but nowhere as bad as it was. What are your thoughts on this? Could it just be some leftover protection oil i might have missed or could it be something else going on? I will also mention I can't see any signs of oil running down sump or drive wheel housings. Cheers.
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice thanks for the reply, it seems to of stopped now, pretty sure it was leftover oil seeping out of the joints of the frame where some things get bolted on. Due to the air pressure from the deck and the blower housing was drawing it out and moving it around.
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice Hey, It's me, Tim. You are waaaaay faster than I am at repairing things. you must've worked flatrate somewhere ! HaHa, I had to pressure wash my parents Skag 3 times just to get all the nasty filth off. This thing had to have been leak'n for years ! After washing/de-greasing I used the dye method to pinpoint the culprit. Sure 'nuff, oil pan gasket. thank you for confirming this problem in these engines. (I have my" Masters" in auto repair ,but am something of a dummy when it comes to lawn equipment ! ) besides, there are more cars and trucks in need I can't hardly find time for MOM'S LAWN MOWER ! ! ! Ha, hahahaha ! Thanks Jeff. God bless.
My Husqvarna with a Kawasaki engine is PISSING oil from the drive pulley shaft area. Doesn't appear to be the oil pan. Likely the main seal. I can watch it drip oil every second. I've even tried the ATP Reseal additive to no a avail. It doesn't have the clutch pulley installed ( no mower deck). Could this result in a leak on that shaft? I'm dreading pulling the engine
I just did it on my 24 hp B&S and so far so good. I drove a screw into the old seal and screwed it in a bit then pulled with vise grips. installed the new seal yesterday and worked it all day today without a leak.
Wow, never messed with mowers.. Though my mower is different than this.This video saved my bacon and helped me fix mine -Thanks a million!!
Good job!
No BS video.. CZcams needs more quality video's like yours.
thanks friend
Jeff, your video was very useful, my 13-year-old B&S 26hp engine is suddenly leaking a lot of oil. I cleaned the engine up enough to see that the sump pan gasket was the problem. I put a wrench on the bolts holding the sump to the block and I found that they had all worked themselves loose. I snugged them up and ran the mower for a bit and no more leaks. Time will tell, thanks again.
Glad it helped, nice work!
Very well done at teaching others how to save money and fix their own problems
Thanks friend! I am glad it helped.
This is a great video. No loud music, just everyday logical mechanical work. Good tips, reference to B&S manual and torque info. I think I would change out the oil pump “O” ring, filter and any other parts that might have been practical while it was open as well. Great job though.
Thanks! 👍
I have intek v 26 hp, gasket leak, 12 years old, 2146 hours, use paint tray when parked in garage, haven’t done repair yet, like your channel.
Dude, you probably saved me at least $500 with this video.
A few years back, I decided that I could do these kinds of repair, but wasn’t comfortable. This video not only exactly diagnosed my problem with my lawn tractor engine, it also gave me the confidence to do this myself.
Thank you!
righton! good job
Last weekend, oil was literally pouring out of my 2009 Husqvarna tractor with a bigger but almost exactly the same B&S engine.
Bought the whole gasket kit, figuring why not replace everything I can while I have the motor off.
Started up like a champ today and not a single drop of oil is leaking.
Thanks again for a fantastic, comprehensive and really well-done video. Showing even your “errors” was extremely helpful. Wish I could link the video of my tractor firing up and running like a dream for you!
Take spark plug out so you can turn crank without compression to drop the bottom pan onto motor, a ton easier & less likely to fold main seal over itself,😉 great vid 👍
A truly great instructional video. I have to perform this repair and you have taken all the guessing out of the job. One thing I always do before taking anything apart is to hot pressure wash everything I can to make the work easier. Thanks for the help.
Wow, you sure have remained calm. Very impressed with the complexity of this repair. I have had my B&S Vanguard in the shop for the third replacement. Never used the mower, leaked when returned to my shed just sitting ! My luck.
Thank you for your video. I used it last week to replace the oil pan gasket and shaft seal on my mower. It was very helpful. Tips I would add for others using the video for reference would be to consider also changing the governor seal and the oil pump o-ring while you've got the pan off. The parts are cheap enough...
good tips!
Thanks for sharing your work. I have a 24hp Briggs that's thrown oil for years. After cleaning it all up and running it for 10 minutes the gasket leak was obvious. Thanks to you I'll forge ahead with replacement.
Mine is leaking in the very same place, very glad to have found this video. Thank you very much!
Glad it helped
I know it's been a year but I still want to thank you for this video.
Ive got a craftsman gt5000 with the 22hp that's leaking bad. Got the parts in and I plan on attempting this on the upcoming weekend. Take care.
Nice video! I have a Husqvarna 23 hp Intek with 600+ hours. It was leaking in the exact place as the one in your video. I used Lucas oil leak stop , it worked great,the leak is completely stopped
Glad it helped!
Great video, thanks a lot! I have watched this before, but now that I am going to work on a similar engine, this video will help a lot.
Glad it helped, Thanks for watching
I used Lucas Oil Leak Stop for this exact problem on a 2009, 23 Hp endeavor . Figured I,d try it first; Within 1 hour, the oil stopped leaking from the sump gasket!
That is great! Worth a try
Thanks for the great video. Just repaired my Craftsman fs5500. Wouldn't have been able to do it without your help.
Thanks for the video. Pulling my engine for rebuild in next couple of weeks. Like the oil drain tube. Think I'm going to add that to mine.
I have the same problem, and thought it was most likely the crankshaft seal, after power washing all the dirt and oil off and running it a few minutes. I was thinking that top pulley spinning was what was throwing the oil everywhere. I can see clearly from your video that top drive pulley was dry on yours. I'm about to tackle this and was hoping to just get away with replacing the seal without splitting the bottom cover off. I now expect mine is leaking from that gasket too. So thanks very much this helps me so much to know what to look out for before tearing it apart.
Make sure you replace Governor shaft seal also
Should be called "Breaks and Crappen"! Maybe they were a decent motor back in the day.. I have a ride on with 16hp Vanguard and less than 300hrs on it and so far one head gasket went at 106hrs and now I diagnosed a leaking sump gasket. There is a 100mm section where the oil is pissing from where the gasket is not even visible, just air gap and oil bubbling out. The reason they have to update these parts is cos they are shit to begin with. 1300hrs on my Honda powered mower and nothing but general service and valve adjustment. Thanks for the good video mate, looks like I'll need it tomorrow.
Dropped bolt ending up in Europe lol
Happens every time. Gave me a good laugh! Great video BTW!
nice job, love how calm you are
Great video, you saved me, can't thank you enough
Glad to hear it!
Very thorough!
very very helpful,Thanks Jeff
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
This guy is the Michael Douglas of small engines! :D
lol! Thanks?
haha!
On my Husqvarna 2748 the engine leaked like this. I bought the parts but decided to tighten up the crankcase bolts all around the engine. Leaks almost completely gone. Thank you for your video. I’ll know what to do when I have to take it apart.
Great video and very informative.
Glad you enjoyed it! thanks for watching
Thanks, this was very helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
Great concise video!
Thank you!
God job greating from Poland
thanks friend
Thanks for the video!
You're welcome!
awesome video man. going to attack mine tomorrow, now i have seen this
Same leak, same place in a newer 24hp. Seems to be a common fault with these motors. Mechanic friend did one motor 3 times and the same problem with a blown gasket each time. B and S told him the fourth time to permatex it. After the permatex, no more leaking.
good to know
I wonder if lightly roughing the sealed surface would help the case grip the gasket?
Good video but did you put gasket between engine block and oil pan?
your the best got of good tips thank you
Thanks friend! Glad to help
Thanks mate! 👍✌️
This is what I do to the area where it AllWAYS leaks, use electric engraver and ruff up sump gasket area, it keeps gasket in place
Done about 80 or more and no issues 😊😊
good tip
I run a tap in to case to clean old lock tight out and air pressure
Good video but I would have stuck a bolt in the gas line to prevent leaks. I really like your oil drain adapter. I will have to make myself one of those. Thanks
I agree but I use a tapered punch for a perfect seal.
Great work Mr. Jeff 🙌👍👍👍👍 dad changed the name😉👍! Mikey 1st phone cool 🙋💪👍👍👍👍
Put #2 grease pack on seal and block of wood, hit it center and use socket to push it down 20 thousand
good tip
Be sure and replace the governor seal also😊
Change the governor seal also to be safe, seen a lot of them leaking and they said sump gasket
I use two guides studs to line up motor, it’s just faster for me
good tip!
Why not mark the cables with colored electrical tape wrapped around the cable and taping over the screw hole? I also put bolts and nuts back in holes to not lose or mix/match them.
good tips!
I've got one that was leaking from that very same spot. New Sump gasket on its way. Will not sell someone a tractor leaking oil like that.
Recently had a Vanguard V-Twin 35HP horizontal leaking oil at crankcase cover and PTO oil seal. This is on an new grain auger. After receiving replacement parts, removed the crankcase cover and found there was no gasket, just RTV silicone. The cover showed that the silicone had not stuck at the bottom and several other points of the cover, thus the leak. I assume, that the mating surfaces had oil residue so the silicone couldn't stick. The old oil seal showed evidence that it had flipped in two spots, thus another oil leak.
This is a brand new engine, less than 10 hours, so right from factory.
Ever seen NO gasket on the crankcase by Vanguard V-Twin?
yikes, That sounds not good. New engines usually have less than 1 hour run time. I have never seen that. The seal was flipped/no gasket... so sounds like someone was messing with it.
Good job !!
Thank you! Cheers!
Good video!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Could I send you 2 pics. I followed this video to remove the engine on my craftsman gt6000 26hp and on the oil pan sump assembly I found a screw in plug on the side just rear of the oil filter that was loose. I tightened it back up snug. Upon examining the cast aluminum assembly I saw a spiderwebbed looking cracking cluster but can’t tell if it was also leaking and is worth replacing or a normal thing?? Your videos are spot on and extremely helpful!
probably just casting marks.
Appreciate you taking the time to do this video. Helped me a lot performing this same job on my 2003 Briggs 21 hp v-twin. After reinstalling the engine and starting white smoke pours out of the muffler area. Oil level is correct and at the full line. Wondering if perhaps oil somehow drained into the top of the engine and then collected inside the muffler upon initial startup ? Thought’s on what the issue might be ?
that could be the case. If so, it will take awhile to burn out.
Run it until it stops smoking could be oil in the muffler or oil leaks from the past that need to be fixed
I have just this job and in my ignorance drove the seal all the way home! However I notice the hole would only be covered half way by the seal. OK do you think? Thanks for your vids, very detailed.
Fix it right! I used to always buy 2 seals until I got better at putting them in. I have messed up a few...
7:25 - You can also take out a spark plug and stuff a rope in the piston.
I have had the rope get stuck in a valve before so I do not use that procedure anymore.
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice If it gets stuck just back up the motor to open the valve and take the rope out. The valves should be closed or closing when the piston comes up.
Very helpful except I still need the sequence for tightening the gasket. Waaay to fast.
I would put the seal in last, tapping it in with a piece of plastic or metal pipe. That makes it easier to put over the shaft without flipping inside-out. Also, seals usually go in easily enough, and stay in more securely, without lubricating the outside of them. It looked like this engine has a ledge in the bottom of where the seal goes, so you just tap the seal against that. Otherwise, yes, just below flush. Too far and you plug that little drain hole.
Nice video👍👍
Witam mam mam podobny problem z dolnym uszczelniaczem aby go wymienić muszę ściągnąć misę olejową?
Nie. pamiętaj o umieszczeniu go prosto i na tej samej głębokości, co stara uszczelka
BS had a lots of problems with oil leaking on their engines
Is it okay to use Permatex on the gasket? I was surprised you didn't use any. Going through all that work I would want to take every precaution I could so it wouldn't leak.
If you install things correctly and clean off the old gasket no permatex is recommended or needed.
AllWAYS best to replace Governor shaft seal every time
It’s not really a good seal anyway and often leaks
Good advice!
I just replaced the sump gasket and the crank seal put it all back together and the governor gernaded! I’m sure it was human error but do you happen to have any idea what I did wrong? I ordered a new governor and a new sump gasket.
when you put the cover back on make sure that the govenor lever in the cover mates up loosely with govenor cap in the case. It may have became bound up upon installation in your case.
I just did the same thing and it leaks out the seal. Ugh
You can do it just make sure you put seal back exactly depth the way it was from the factory.
question... whyd you take the oil pump out? If the shaft and motor never moved, you should be able to put it back together without removing the pump, no?
Hello! Yes that is correct. I just took it apart for the demonstration.
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice Might you have the part number for that oil pump O-Ring seal? If not, can you tell me what the engine model #, type #, and serial number is? I have a similar engine on a generac generator but B&S does not have a parts breakout for my engine but this engine you are working on is similar
I'm considering attempting this on my L120. How many weeks should I plan for it to be disassembled in my garage before I get this done?
2 weeks
Could this leak cause power loss after the motor gets hot?
not likely. check under your engine cover it may be clogged with a mouse nest causing overheating
did you ever figure out where the leak was coming from? I'm only halfway through so maybe you'll say later
the oil sump "pan" gasket
Hi there, i have recently purchased a new Ferris 400s zero turn, it has a briggs 23hp commercial. I noticed when i received it from the dealer there seemed to be oil spray everywhere primarily all over the frame and deck area. I contacted the dealer and they said it comes shiped like that for better protection. So I thoroughly wiped down all areas. I then noticed after its first and again on the second use more oil spray over some areas but nowhere as bad as it was. What are your thoughts on this? Could it just be some leftover protection oil i might have missed or could it be something else going on? I will also mention I can't see any signs of oil running down sump or drive wheel housings. Cheers.
check the bottom crank shaft seal for leaks and all around the sump gasket
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice thanks for the reply, it seems to of stopped now, pretty sure it was leftover oil seeping out of the joints of the frame where some things get bolted on. Due to the air pressure from the deck and the blower housing was drawing it out and moving it around.
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice Yeah.He had a leak. They tried to "smooge" this poor fella !
Thats why i never sell stuff to FRIENDS. Sold as is to stranger. Its gone
I have to do the exact same thing to my tractor approximately how long will this take?
3-4 hours
How long did that actually take you start to finish without all the video edits? Thx!
about 3 hours I would guess
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice Hey, It's me, Tim. You are waaaaay faster than I am at repairing things. you must've worked flatrate somewhere ! HaHa, I had to pressure wash my parents Skag 3 times just to get all the nasty filth off. This thing had to have been leak'n for years ! After washing/de-greasing I used the dye method to pinpoint the culprit. Sure 'nuff, oil pan gasket. thank you for confirming this problem in these engines. (I have my" Masters" in auto repair ,but am something of a dummy when it comes to lawn equipment ! ) besides, there are more cars and trucks in need I can't hardly find time for MOM'S LAWN MOWER ! ! ! Ha, hahahaha ! Thanks Jeff. God bless.
My Husqvarna with a Kawasaki engine is PISSING oil from the drive pulley shaft area. Doesn't appear to be the oil pan. Likely the main seal. I can watch it drip oil every second. I've even tried the ATP Reseal additive to no a avail. It doesn't have the clutch pulley installed ( no mower deck). Could this result in a leak on that shaft? I'm dreading pulling the engine
it is the main seal. It is ok to run without clutch
Can the gasket be replaced while the engine is still in the mower? Mine is a zero turn Scag and I can remove enough frame to access the engine
unfortunately no
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice thanks for responding back. Some nut job welded my top pully to the shaft.
I have the same engine, what is your opinion a about old intec vtwin 20hp?
some of them are crap
Would it be possible at least as a temporary fix to just push some rtv into the area where its leaking?
I don't think that will work
BAD idea. Please do not waste your time. Either fix it correctly or find someone who can.- ASE Master certified dumbass.
I wouldn't consider any engine that has chronic oil pan gasket failure as a good engine. No more Briggs for me.
I still like Briggs better than Kohler or Tecumseh.
Is it possible to change the pto shaft oil seal without removing the motor?
possibly, but it would be difficult
I just did it on my 24 hp B&S and so far so good. I drove a screw into the old seal and screwed it in a bit then pulled with vise grips. installed the new seal yesterday and worked it all day today without a leak.
Unfortunately.
No table
I need more work tables for sure
this does not look like a DIY type of job.. lol