How to Build a Frosty T-Burner (Propane Forge) Step-by-Step Process
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- čas přidán 27. 11. 2018
- Detailed steps on building a Frosty T-Burner for a propane forge. Check out the following links below for some of the parts I used to put it together. Thanks for watching!
Link to Instructions: www.blacksmither.com/wp-conten...
Parts:
High Pressure Propane Regulator amzn.to/2RmkSRy
Pressure Gauge amzn.to/2QqR4pF
Needle Valve amzn.to/2SeRH2M
Stainless Steel Reducer amzn.to/2KEmDqD - Jak na to + styl
Hey man I appreciate you taking the time to make this video. I followed the instructions as well as I could, and my burner turned out well enough for what I need it for. I also learned some stuff in the process. Keep it up!
you can eliminate a couple fittings at the burner. tap the Tee with 7/16-20 straight thread. screw the 37 flare end of the 1/4 npt to 1/4 37 flare fitting directly into the tee. The inside id of the 1/4" 37 flare fitting is small enough to tap for either 1/-28 or 6mm-1.00. Which ever your mig tip is.
Great presentation! Thanks for the walk through.
thank you for your time and knowledge
Great video man, right to the point
Good descriptions and well presented. Thank you! One thought, don't back the tap all the way out, just enough to break the chip. If you take it completely out and then try to reenter the newly cut threads there is a chance of damaging what you already did. I liked the use of the union, easy disconnect without having to spin everything.
Great video. Thanks for putting it up. One thing though, your gauge isn't showing the actual pressure on your burner. It is showing the pressure between the regulator and the needle valve. The gauge needs to be between the burner and the needle valve if you want actual burner pressure.
Nice burner. I started building my burner today but need a few more parts.
I built my to spec as shown on this and other videos. 1" main by 3/4" T with 3/4" 8" nipple. Tip centered in T. I can only get a weak good looking flame with minimal gas pressure or it flames out. If I turn gas pressure down further it catches fire down in T. The only way I can get a nice looking flame is to choke off almost all air intake. Not able to achieve a roaring flame. My previous burner was pretty much the the same but T-less. Had several holes drilled in tube for air with a pipe on outside to control air. It worked. I am stumped.
You're using a high pressure regulator correct?
Don't forget about the 3/4" to 1" reduce at the output.
good video...btw...the correct tap for mig tip is m6x1,,drill is 5mm ...yellow teflon tape lubricates but doesn't seal??..then thread paste is better,, don't want any leaks
Genial muito bom show
Hi mate great vid. Using the pressure gauge is a great idea. Just wondering Did you have to adjust the length of the mig tip? I plan on making one of these burners next week so been looking up as much info as I can on them. The length of the mig tip change from vid to vid.
Hallo and thanks for the nice video. I would like to ask you what temperature you get at the forge with this burner? Thanks again.
Spiros Athens Greece
We are doing a double almost just like it. We are using.23 tips. Hopefully ours will work like yours
Butterball Jitsu awesome let me know how it works!
Changing the size of the orifice (.23, .30, .35, etc) will alter the volume of gas supplied to burner. You may need to add adjustable baffles to the air intake to balance the mixture. Have fun experimenting.
I have a dual T burner and I'm having trouble with the burners. The first burner works great until I turn on the second one, and then they start sputtering. And I'm also having problems with them getting extremely hot, up around the fixtures, and rubber gas lines.
You started talking about the pipe tap being tapered, but didn't mention if you tap too deep with it then the fitting will be loose, it actually widens the hole too much. Looks like yours was actually close tobeing too loose. A little extra tape will probably fix it though.
Link to instructions brought up some radio program.
Very logical documentary. What's the reason for using a tee instead of a cross? That would save a lot of work.
my Lack of Focus or MLFranklin can you help me? I bought a 3/4” cross. What else do I need? I don’t wanna drill, I’d prefer to use flares or nipples
Do you. Reach forge weld temps with this setup?
pressure reg is a must ?
Sir l built a burner with a 1x1x3/4 tee and a .30 flux core tip with a regulator and it will not light. Could you give me some advice? Thank you
Can I use 1 1/4" pipe instead of 3/4" pipe for the burner? Will there be any greater safety concerns if I use 1 1/4" pipe instead of 3/4"? And can the propane line fittings be of different diameter, such as 5/16" with all proper reducers and tight threaded fits? Thank You for the video.
All of that is achievable. Bigger burner will give you a lot more heat.
What pressure the regulator is set to make it work?
any idea how many btu from one of these burners?
how would it go with a blower pushing air through the "T" ?
It would not keep a flame. too much air at that point. even putting another nipple on the reducer coupling will put the velocity of the gas too high to keep a flame.
The existing hole in the brass fitting was way bigger than the 1/4 20 my welding tip was.
Всё гениальное просто.
The improbable curmudgeon eh? Hes so good at responding to everyone on i forge iron.
Yes he is. FROSTY for President! ;-)
This is the second time I've seen this link to the radio channel and can't find the directions on there. Any directions to the directions?
Sorry, I didn’t realize my link changed. Here, I googled it for you: pdf4pro.com/amp/cdn/frosty-t-burner-build-blacksmither-18350f.pdf
Thanx man. I really suck at the internet
So I used the same tap that you mentioned in the video, a 1/4", 28, for the threads in the brass fitting to set the mig tip and when I was done, the mig tip just slid in and out. The hole was too big.
Any suggestions?
Sounds like your mig tip thread is M6 SO USE M6 TAP WITH A 5.5 MM DRILL HOLE
@@sprockylock391 is this a MIller mig tip?
Cpvc would work fine up to 2 feet to kiln just use cast from there cpvc holds up to 300 psi propane is cold anyway no heat is made until combustion at tip so technically weather is air hose water hose PVC cpvc or copper pipe and even pex is all fine for max of 30 psi from regulator code I guess would be gas pipe cast iron but it's not on a building so code doesnt matter just a thought of making long distance supply cheaper ....good job on building
CAN YOU LIST THE PARTS?
Tengo que aser uno y necesito alluda, antes de aserlo. Soy de argentina.
did u end up shortening the mig tip?
Michael spikes yes, by maybe 1/8”
👍🏻
Why is the eighth inch tap larger than the quarter?
1/8 is a pipe size and pipe is measured by the Inside Diameter (ID). The mig tip is a bolt size, in this case 1/4", which is the diameter of the outside of the threads. NOTE: some tips are metric, 6mm x 1.0mm pitch.
@@skiidahonorthsouth That makes sense.
the T pipe, I'd tap that so hard.
tee is a cheap affective way of controlling the air not enough than add holes.. to much and u can add reducers .. still not enough bore out reducers
Less is safer less connections means less chance of leaks.
Not trying to be an ass, but you're not supposed to use bushings for reducing gas line. Always use bell reducers. At least that's what my boss has always told me
Or galvanized steel. Anything to do with gas has to be done right or a potential failure could happen down the road. Im just looking out for you brother
Metriuc is so much easier. I have absolutely no idea. If i need a 1 mm hole (that's just one number) instead of 23/67 or wtf, and if you write it in decimal it goes like nine decimals or something
That’s a lot of fittings.
7:00 C D E F G - G F E D C
Who told you that thread tape doesn’t seal and is for lubrication? It is definitely for sealing man. That’s it’s purpose.
The internet...here’s an example: www.thebuildingcodeforum.com/forum/threads/white-tape-on-gas-lines.10125/
Wrong. Its purpose isn't to seal. Pipe threads are tapered. They seal themselves, but you have to tighten them enough to seal themselves. That is where Teflon tape comes in. It lubricates the treads so you can more easily get the joint tighter. The old timers use to use oil or cutting fluid to lube the threads, them Teflon tape was invented which is far less messy
It does not have to be in the center don't believe every thing you hear....test shit then make a video ...
Thanks for watching, Gary