i only framed for about 9 months, but what my boss told me when i asked questions about headers, was that the rule of thumb, was that for every foot that your header ran, you transformed that measurement into inches per your header. so if i had a 3 foot wide window or less, then i used a 2X header, and if i had a ten foot opening, then i used 2X10's for my headers, and if i went over 12 feet, then i would use an L:VL. he also told me that this rule was more used for cantileavers, but also applied to cut out openings, but wasnt absolute. i understood that as basic one story building methods, because obviously, at least to me, if you are building a 2 or 3/4 story house, then your headers become more important, and things like bla bla bla come into play. anyways though, ive always used this method that i was taught, to make my headers, and i pretty much always use the sandwich method myself, but im not a pro, im just a get er done side contractor, but i dont exceed my knowledge level, and ive gotten more work out of being honest about my skill limits than i have about pretending im an engineering guru, but anyways, i do want to ask if what i was taught is at a basic leve, a decent foundation to go off of?
the problem with the high header is that when framed that way, the 2x across the top of the opening doesn't provide enough nailing surface for the next trade that comes after you. As a lath and plaster contractor, the 2x is so tight that it provides little nailing surface for the lather to attach the wire to. Remember the window flange is anywhere from 1.25 to 1.50 inches out from the window and covers most of the 2x's face across the opening. this requires either blocking above the 2x across, or cranking up the nail gun and shooting through the window flange. When the header is low, there is ample space for nailing across. Framers frame to the drawings, but they need to be aware of what is going to be done all the way the interior/exterior finish. otherwise good video
@@ConstructionEd - LOL! I worked for 30 years in railroad technical training so I appreciate good videos when I see them! I've been retired for almost 10 years now but I also enjoy learning from CZcams and I am grateful that you took the time to do a GREAT job! Woodworking has always fascinated me but framing has been a mystery to me and you all really have the knack for making it easy! Again, Thanks So Much! Take Care, Tom
Thank you! Sometimes you stumble over great videos and teachers online, and I’m very happy to have stumbled over yours. Just the content I’m looking for! Love the scale models you have made to illustrate how everything goes together!
Thank you very much for the clear explanations on header. As I am new to QS, I have been taking more than 8 days to get clarified. once again thank you very much....
Amazing! The very last point that you mentioned (Jack studs don't stop by the window header BUT goes all the way up to the top plate) was crucial to me. I learned a lot. I really appreciate you and your lessons. Thank you kindly 🙏
in 2X6 walls, we double up usually 2X12's and push them to the outside, leaving 2.5" space for insulation, or place a piece of 2.5" foam between the 2 2X12's
This man is AMAZING 🤩 I can’t believe you don’t have a million views on day one. Thank you so much 🙏🏻 Definitely subscribing to your channel. Keep it coming I clip on how to build a deck and pergola would be great 👍🏻
Hello from Monday, January 15, 2024. So great to discover your channel. New Subscriber here. Thanks for making the vids and doing a superb job explaining to the world what this "mystery" is behind building. Happy New Year!
Excellent presentation; no fluff, gets right to the point. I have a question about sandwich headers built on-site. Rather than simply nailing the assembly together why not glue and screw together? Is this too time consuming? Nailing seems like an inferior method compared to ‘glue-and-screw’
For the single ply header, why isn't the header centered to make an I-beam shape? Wouldn't that produce the same % area void, but be structurally stronger? As it is, it sorta seems like the design would have "load bearing" insulation
Great video….. Question…I am installing a prehung double door that is 65 inches wide in a non load bearing wall in my basement. Can I use 2 flat 2x4s nailed together as a header or is the span too large? I want to avoid purchasing a sheet of 1/2” plywood to make a sandwich header? Thank you for providing such informative content.
Since the header is non-structural, you don't really need a header - just use some 2x4 framing. But it is likely you want something to fasten your drywall to above the door - I am assuming. In that case, you can use some other material to fill the 1/2 if you really want something in place of a header.
Ok, i make this harder than it has to be apparently. How does the header get fastened? The 2*6 commected to the king stud on each side? What about if the header is at the top and that 2*6 is connected to the top plate? Screwed in from the top through the double plate and then into the header? I can't imagine a huge 8 inch screw from the bottom to fasten through the 2*6 and into the top plate..... Yeah, beginner here. Thanks in advance
sorry for the delay Matt. You can connect the header by face-nailing through the King Studs. Also - if you have a high header you can face nail through the top plate. The jack studs are taking the weight, and the fasteners are there just to keep in all in place
Thanks for your videos. They’re very helpful. Now I’m wondering about combining the single header method and the top header method. Doing that it seems as if the upper header plate could be the wall’s top plate, with the single header below that and the lower header plate finishing up the header. Would that be workable? I like that it would eliminate one piece of wood, for both a cost savings and a heat transfer improvement. But would it work structurally?
Fantastic video. Would appreciate more coverage on the window sills though. Split Jacks vs Continuous Jacks vs Continuous Jacks with Cripple Studs. Why are Split Jacks not meeting code in some jurisdictions? Continuous Jack would force to use toenailing and does not look super reassuring, especially in situations with only one cripple... would love to see a video on that topic (and apologies if I miss one talking about that) thanks again for the great content, much appreciated
In our opinion, Jack Studs should not be split. A sill can be end nailed through the face of the jack if the RO framing sequence is done in a way that allows. You will see folks frame with extra framing members under a sill at the ends. - I call them stilts because they are not true cripples. The false argument for those framing parts is that the sill holds more weight. I call this a false argument because the sill does not need to hold more weight - the windows are fastened to the RO - very little weight is actually on the sill. Advanced framing techniques encourage less lumber rather than more. We say if the lumber is not required, it should not be added.
@@ConstructionEd Thank you very much for your quick and thorough answer Joe 👍👍👍 All that make sense, indeed. In my current situation I am looking at designing a rough opening of about 10F that will actually not receive a window frame but a counter top. I suppose that in such scenario adding stilts could make sense. I was also thinking about adding a double sill as well. Many many thanks for your feedback and all your videos. They are well made and very instructive 🙏
For the exterior openings, the framing member right at the top of the rough opening shall be designed for wind loads. While it's not an issue with small openings, it's can be a problem if this member is not sized properly for much wider opening especially when the real header is raised up against the double top plates.
AWESOME videos. I really love the models. In the videos showing engineered headers, they appear to have two Jack Studs on each side. Is this common for larger openings with bigger headers (and bigger loads)? Is there a rule of thumb, or would the engineer specify this condition? EDIT: Next time I'll watch the entire video before asking a question. ;)
Great helpful channel, learning alot! One question is for running electrical wires, or HVAC Plumbing & electrical or otherwise from attic down to 1 Level ceiling on a 2 level building! Can you cut 1"/1.5"/2" diameter holes on both the double top plates/cap & top on exterior or interior walls framinged in? Will any of these cuts/holes made in any sizes mentioned above in any location throughout both of those two top plates hinder or disrupt the integrity to the strength of that wall?
what type of loading will the one layer header carry? my husband spent 56 yrs. in architecture. he questions this for loading, the header has to require so much loading per lf. He has designed many headers for his architectural career and questions some of these modern technics of todays construction.. to design any header you have to know total loading per lf.. which is easy to do. with his 56 yrs. he questions some of this stuff.. He looked at some new houses being framed this way and notice some real deflection for a garage door header openings.
At the 6:35 minute mark on your video, you have what appears to be a stained pallet wall behind you. Looks great. I'm using pallet wood in my music studio / office in the basement and would like to know what stain you used. Thanks in advance. PS: Framing information is quite helpful.
Between High header and Drop header, High header seems providing more stability, why is it not commonly used? What is the disadvantage of it. Thank you.
Your a great instructor, I teach a carpentry class in my local adult program. What are the dimensions of those studs for the scale model you have there? I'd love to use models like those.
Check out our channel for teachers - www.youtube.com/@TEACHConstruction Here is the link to a video about the scaled lumber czcams.com/video/_A6u0oQ9Guw/video.html
I would quibble with the illustration on 7:34-8:36 I've always called the two plates at the top the "double top plate", the lower plate being the "First plate" and the second one being ........ "the Second plate"😉. I think that the way they are drawn might confuse students because the "Top plate" is under the Cap plate.
Thanks always for the input and for watching. There are many regional differences in terms and some builders even develop their own naming. We at TEACH try to find the most accepted and descriptive terms. You know how tricky this can be for a global audience and so many times textbook terms are not always used everywhere or by all. The cap plate (or lesser used term "crown plate") clearly describes the uppermost position in a wall. I believe anyone learning framing would struggle with understanding your preferred term "first plate" as it's name does not indicate its location in a wall frame. To a newbie, "first plate" could possibly suggest the bottom or sole plate. As for "Second plate" - if i know nothing about framing this might be a single top plate but I am unsure. Remember, a wall with a single plate only at the top is always referred to as a "top plate", so an additional one stacked above makes the group a double top plate as you said. With three basic terms used in the most current version of the IRC - top plate, double top plate, and cap plate, walls built with either a single or double top plate can be described with less confusion and a student is also being primed for learning building code (IMHO). I think we can both agree that communicating clearly through terms is just as important as tool and measuring skills when working in the field. Props to you for caring and the feedback is very appreciated!
I have to agree with Joe. Bottom plate, top plate, and cap plate. The last two making combined making a double top plate. Start with the text book terms and then move to field terms
I didn't think a solid wood header would be considered a heat loss. Wood has 'R' value. But is the R value of wood less than insulation board? Log cabins are known for having good R value without insulation. Opinions please...
For a 12' sliding glass door on an exterior wall, it appears that a 12' 6" header is required with double jacks. How many kings will be needed? Thank you
Fantastic videos! Question…I am building basement walls with doorways. Since the walls are not load bearing can I build my door headers using 2 - 2x4’s laid flat and nailed together? Thank you so much!
Headers are only required if the wall is load-bearing. If you are adding an interior partition wall you can use the same size framing lumber as the studs in place of a structural header. You are mainly creating an upper framing member to frame in your door and a place for the trim to be nailed to.
I'm curious about the single ply header. One would logically think the single ply would be right down the middle, like an I-beam, allowing some insulation on each side. I would think that with the single ply just on one side, there is a weakness in the structure on the other side due to not being in balance. The load of the wall is down the middle, not the side, and I-beam construction, be it metal or a wooden I-joist, is "I" shaped for a reason. How is the strength of the header not impacted when moving the support from the center to the outside (or inside) edge?
While you are likely correct that moving the header from the middle to the edge could result in less strength. But the additional strength is not needed.
Great video - I'm interested in learning more about the math behind determining the number and size of the header beams to support a certain span width. I assume the same header can support the same span regardless of if it's dropped or raised and in contact with the top plate so is there another benefit for using the "modern" header placement of raising it to the top?
I learned some of the Math in my Structural Analysis class at school, not terribly fun. Now most folks just look at the IRC code book and use those tables - or of course just do what the engineer told ya to do, lol. Yes the high header can carry the same load as the drop header - in fact it can carry a bit more when it is up tight against the top-plate. The other main benefit for a high header is later remodeling. It is nice to be able to increase the height of a window without having to replace a header...
What are your thoughts on the oversized header that attaches to the underside of the top plate with another 2×4 or 2x6 attached to the bottom of the header to define all the rough openings in house which in turn eliminates all the cripple studs. I've been seeing that a lot in new builds.
Sorry, we can not provide you with engineering - but you will still need to consider several factors to take the load above into account. You will need to know the planned materials , the number of stories etc. codes.iccsafe.org/s/IRC2021P2/chapter-6-wall-construction/IRC2021P2-Pt03-Ch06-SecR602.7
Thanks for jumping in on the comment Cody - He is right, the actual dimension of a 2x4 is 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" - We cover that on our materials lesson video in detail.
Not sure I understand your question. When you ask about "attaching" are you asking the types of fasteners? If you are referring to the board orientation - typically a structural header has the boards on edge.
Do you have a video showing a opening for a door on an elevation vs subgrade? That is, crawl space vs basement foundations. (Up north is mostly basements, and in the south crawl spaces.) Also what differences if any between those rough openings with balloon framing? Great series btw. I'm currently doing remodelling again, and these technical details is where I'm having trouble.
I am not really sure what you are asking about - the RO framing is the same over a crawl space or a basement. If the RO is in the foundation - then those are typically supported with the concrete wall and then header in place - sometimes that is in metal. Then the rest of the RO is framed out with wood so the door has something to connect to. But this construction would typically be called out on the plans and approved by an engineer. I could be wrong - but the RO framing is the same for balloon framing - but you should consult a Structural Engineer since I assume you are talking about a multistory building since you referenced balloon framing. Especially if you are dropping in a RO where there was not one before.
I don't understand the dimension numbers for the sandwich header. If I put 2 2x4s and a 1/2" osb in between them doesn't that create a dimension of 4 1/2 inches? Same with the triple sandwich header, 3 2x4s and (2) 1/2" osb in between, doesn't that create a dimension of 7 "?
Your videos are very helpful. But I find that in most of the videos the education leans, towards a basic install. Carpenters need to know to fasten headers to top plates, how many nails to use, for what size lumber. To nail to king studs per code, nail size, number of nails. Most of all to be able to find the information in a techno world we live in. Your basic viewer doesn't know that 3 nails go to 2X6s walls, 2 for 2X4 walls and so on. Even in the AF&PA Wall frame manual doesn't give anyone the count. R602.7.1 is the same, so were can the audience get this type of information.
Number of jack studs are determined by span and the load above. Determine the load and you should be able to find a header sizing table online or in ICC code.
11:30 For a window in a high header situation the bottom of the rough opening is the sill. What is the purple member that defines the top of the rough opening called?
When the header is install high, the framing member at the top of the RO is really just a nailer. I have heard it called a header plate, or a nonstructural header, we sometimes call it a header plate. But I don't think there is an "approved" term for that member.
Ronnie - yes the cripples would travel from the top plate to the header in this drop header configuration - the image at 8:30 is "section view" to show the orientation of the framing member.
The open layout header feels riskier (I’m an absolute beginner just sharing thoughts). For example if you placed weight on the weak side of that open header where the insulation is I feel like you could have some major screw ups. Imagine building on top of that header you wouldn’t likely know that an entire side is hollow and could put weight on it in a way that could compromise it. Also I’ve heard that the first thing a piece of dimensional lumber wants to do is turn when it has weight on it (example in standing joists). Would this tumble effect be more likely to happen on the “weak” insulation side of the open header layout?
I often rely on the tables in the code and what the engineer has specified. I personally like the headers that are boxed with insulation in the middle.
I had never heard of that kind of header, and I was thinking the same thing. If I were a pro building from engineered plans, of course I would build it as shown. But I'm a DIYer building my house, and I don't think I'd do that kind! This was helpful. I have half my house built, and your videos show me where I went wrong (not many wrong spots, thank goodness), where I went right, and how to do it better on the rest of the house. There are so many practical things you only learn by doing. Like how do you handle it when most of your lumber is warped in at least one direction? I've gotten a lot better with that, but warped, twisted and splitting lumber is always a headache. Is there a video for that, other than to insist on picking out your own boards at the lumber yard?
if you are asking about the floor construction it all depends on the span distance of the joists and the loads you are expecting on the floor. As far as 2x4 walls, that is fine depending on the usage and your local code. Meaning 2x4 may not provide for enough installation in cold climates- but in warmer zones it is often allowed. I am sure that does not answer your question, but much more information is required to design a floor.
The affect of thermal bridging on ambient room temperature is minuscule, it’s not even worth mentioning. There’s no need to insulate a header or exterior corners and T’s.
As a carpenter for 46yrs ,I can endorse your teachings Sir, Thank you
I just learned what Jack and kings are. Thank you sir
i only framed for about 9 months, but what my boss told me when i asked questions about headers, was that the rule of thumb, was that for every foot that your header ran, you transformed that measurement into inches per your header. so if i had a 3 foot wide window or less, then i used a 2X header, and if i had a ten foot opening, then i used 2X10's for my headers, and if i went over 12 feet, then i would use an L:VL. he also told me that this rule was more used for cantileavers, but also applied to cut out openings, but wasnt absolute. i understood that as basic one story building methods, because obviously, at least to me, if you are building a 2 or 3/4 story house, then your headers become more important, and things like bla bla bla come into play. anyways though, ive always used this method that i was taught, to make my headers, and i pretty much always use the sandwich method myself, but im not a pro, im just a get er done side contractor, but i dont exceed my knowledge level, and ive gotten more work out of being honest about my skill limits than i have about pretending im an engineering guru, but anyways, i do want to ask if what i was taught is at a basic leve, a decent foundation to go off of?
Wish I could answer
These are the best framing videos I've ever seen. Thanks 👍
Wow, thanks!
the problem with the high header is that when framed that way, the 2x across the top of the opening doesn't provide enough nailing surface for the next trade that comes after you. As a lath and plaster contractor, the 2x is so tight that it provides little nailing surface for the lather to attach the wire to. Remember the window flange is anywhere from 1.25 to 1.50 inches out from the window and covers most of the 2x's face across the opening. this requires either blocking above the 2x across, or cranking up the nail gun and shooting through the window flange. When the header is low, there is ample space for nailing across. Framers frame to the drawings, but they need to be aware of what is going to be done all the way the interior/exterior finish.
otherwise good video
you are a great teacher, I'm glad I found your video, Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
You are very welcome - thank for joining us
Joe, you truly have a gift for making things easy to learn! Thank You Sir!
Thanks for watching! You should see the blooper reel
@@ConstructionEd - LOL! I worked for 30 years in railroad technical training so I appreciate good videos when I see them! I've been retired for almost 10 years now but I also enjoy learning from CZcams and I am grateful that you took the time to do a GREAT job!
Woodworking has always fascinated me but framing has been a mystery to me and you all really have the knack for making it easy! Again, Thanks So Much!
Take Care,
Tom
Thank you! Sometimes you stumble over great videos and teachers online, and I’m very happy to have stumbled over yours. Just the content I’m looking for! Love the scale models you have made to illustrate how everything goes together!
Gald you found us, I hope you like the other videos on our channel
UK subscriber here. Just want to say thank you for these videos. Lots of cross Atlantic carryover here. Really great delivery and pace
Glad they are being viewed across the pond
Thank you very much for the clear explanations on header. As I am new to QS, I have been taking more than 8 days to get clarified. once again thank you very much....
These videos are incredibly helpful. Thank you. I especially appreciate the time and effort that went into making the models.
thanks for visiting and thanks for your comment
Amazing! The very last point that you mentioned (Jack studs don't stop by the window header BUT goes all the way up to the top plate) was crucial to me. I learned a lot. I really appreciate you and your lessons. Thank you kindly 🙏
I cannot believe you do not have millions of subs man you're amazing.
Thanks - Maybe someday our subscriber count will be higher. Please Subscribe, Share, Like, and comment whenever you can. It helps
Literally answering my questions as I think of them, wow, good work, subbed.
Awesome, thank you!
This is very well produced and super informative. Thank you
thanks - we do work hard on making educational videos
in 2X6 walls, we double up usually 2X12's and push them to the outside, leaving 2.5" space for insulation, or place a piece of 2.5" foam between the 2 2X12's
Thanks for all the information packed into your videos! Great presentation!
thank you very much
Thanks a lot for the clear explanation!
Always have enjoyed woodworking and construction shows. This is a very informative series. Enjoying breakfast while learning. 👍👍
I hope you had a good breakfast, eggs and building lessons always go well together.
This man is AMAZING 🤩
I can’t believe you don’t have a million views on day one.
Thank you so much 🙏🏻
Definitely subscribing to your channel.
Keep it coming
I clip on how to build a deck and pergola would be great 👍🏻
Wow, thank you!
Excellent information and very easy to understand, great job!
thanks Todd
so nice for a giant to teach us how to build
Joe is a little over 6 feet.
Hello from Monday, January 15, 2024. So great to discover your channel. New Subscriber here. Thanks for making the vids and doing a superb job explaining to the world what this "mystery" is behind building. Happy New Year!
Welcome aboard!
That was very helpful, soon to be installing a 71" window, will definitely follow these guidelines! Thanks!
Glad to hear it. We also have a video on window installation.
Good stuff, thanks for the well done video and explanation. Cheers!
Im doing a blueprint class and this was very helpful, thankyou!
You're very welcome!
Muy bueno
Maestro, su explicación y detalles
Son bien entendidos
Gracias de nuevo
Se le agradece
Bendiciones 👍
Thanks for the comment and enjoy the other lessons
Thank you! Great series.
You're very welcome!
You are a very good teacher
Thank you! 😃
Excellent presentation; no fluff, gets right to the point.
I have a question about sandwich headers built on-site. Rather than simply nailing the assembly together why not glue and screw together? Is this too time consuming? Nailing seems like an inferior method compared to ‘glue-and-screw’
Very informative, well explained
Glad you liked it
Excellent video
Thank you very much! - I hope you watch more of our videos in the framing series. More are coming each week.
Thank you for your valuable information
You are welcome
This is awesome! Thank you!
You're very welcome!
Great teaching 👍
Glad you think so!
Great teacher!
Thank you! 😃
For the single ply header, why isn't the header centered to make an I-beam shape? Wouldn't that produce the same % area void, but be structurally stronger? As it is, it sorta seems like the design would have "load bearing" insulation
Great videos! Thank you!
glad you liked it
Great video…..
Question…I am installing a prehung double door that is 65 inches wide in a non load bearing wall in my basement. Can I use 2 flat 2x4s nailed together as a header or is the span too large? I want to avoid purchasing a sheet of 1/2” plywood to make a sandwich header? Thank you for providing such informative content.
Since the header is non-structural, you don't really need a header - just use some 2x4 framing. But it is likely you want something to fasten your drywall to above the door - I am assuming. In that case, you can use some other material to fill the 1/2 if you really want something in place of a header.
Thank you so much for kind of information ❤️ it's really help to understand header.
I really want you to upload some videos on estimate lumber framing
Noted - that may be available in the future
Ok, i make this harder than it has to be apparently. How does the header get fastened? The 2*6 commected to the king stud on each side? What about if the header is at the top and that 2*6 is connected to the top plate? Screwed in from the top through the double plate and then into the header? I can't imagine a huge 8 inch screw from the bottom to fasten through the 2*6 and into the top plate..... Yeah, beginner here. Thanks in advance
sorry for the delay Matt. You can connect the header by face-nailing through the King Studs. Also - if you have a high header you can face nail through the top plate. The jack studs are taking the weight, and the fasteners are there just to keep in all in place
@@ConstructionEdwhat an incredible resource!!!
I am THOROUGHLY impressed
This channel is a GOD send
Thanks for ALL you are doing
We always referred to the jack studs as cripples, i guess terminology varies in different areas
Thanks for your videos. They’re very helpful.
Now I’m wondering about combining the single header method and the top header method. Doing that it seems as if the upper header plate could be the wall’s top plate, with the single header below that and the lower header plate finishing up the header. Would that be workable? I like that it would eliminate one piece of wood, for both a cost savings and a heat transfer improvement. But would it work structurally?
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Again I say....thank you 👍
Thanks again!
Fantastic video.
Would appreciate more coverage on the window sills though.
Split Jacks vs Continuous Jacks vs Continuous Jacks with Cripple Studs.
Why are Split Jacks not meeting code in some jurisdictions?
Continuous Jack would force to use toenailing and does not look super reassuring, especially in situations with only one cripple...
would love to see a video on that topic (and apologies if I miss one talking about that)
thanks again for the great content, much appreciated
In our opinion, Jack Studs should not be split. A sill can be end nailed through the face of the jack if the RO framing sequence is done in a way that allows. You will see folks frame with extra framing members under a sill at the ends. - I call them stilts because they are not true cripples. The false argument for those framing parts is that the sill holds more weight. I call this a false argument because the sill does not need to hold more weight - the windows are fastened to the RO - very little weight is actually on the sill. Advanced framing techniques encourage less lumber rather than more. We say if the lumber is not required, it should not be added.
@@ConstructionEd Thank you very much for your quick and thorough answer Joe 👍👍👍
All that make sense, indeed.
In my current situation I am looking at designing a rough opening of about 10F that will actually not receive a window frame but a counter top. I suppose that in such scenario adding stilts could make sense. I was also thinking about adding a double sill as well.
Many many thanks for your feedback and all your videos. They are well made and very instructive 🙏
For the exterior openings, the framing member right at the top of the rough opening shall be designed for wind loads. While it's not an issue with small openings, it's can be a problem if this member is not sized properly for much wider opening especially when the real header is raised up against the double top plates.
You can meet the wind load requirements as separate from load capacity of the header
If you were going to expose a gluelam header wouldn't you want it to deep enough to extend out past the drywall?
AWESOME videos. I really love the models.
In the videos showing engineered headers, they appear to have two Jack Studs on each side. Is this common for larger openings with bigger headers (and bigger loads)? Is there a rule of thumb, or would the engineer specify this condition?
EDIT: Next time I'll watch the entire video before asking a question. ;)
Great helpful channel, learning alot! One question is for running electrical wires, or HVAC Plumbing & electrical or otherwise from attic down to 1 Level ceiling on a 2 level building! Can you cut 1"/1.5"/2" diameter holes on both the double top plates/cap & top on exterior or interior walls framinged in? Will any of these cuts/holes made in any sizes mentioned above in any location throughout both of those two top plates hinder or disrupt the integrity to the strength of that wall?
thank you!
You're welcome! And thank for visiting the channel
Thanks
you are welcome
what type of loading will the one layer header carry? my husband spent 56 yrs. in architecture. he questions this for loading, the header has to require so much loading per lf. He has designed many headers for his architectural career and questions some of these modern technics of todays construction.. to design any header you have to know total loading per lf.. which is easy to do. with his 56 yrs. he questions some of this stuff.. He looked at some new houses being framed this way and notice some real deflection for a garage door header openings.
At the 6:35 minute mark on your video, you have what appears to be a stained pallet wall behind you. Looks great. I'm using pallet wood in my music studio / office in the basement and would like to know what stain you used. Thanks in advance. PS: Framing information is quite helpful.
We cheated and that was from a pre-stained kit we bought from one of the big box stores - I think it was Home Depot
But it could have been the blue store
Thanks for the info!
The one downside of the high header, is a loss in the fastening area for window dressings. Other than that, it makes sense.
They do make sense in many install situations - Blocking is always easy to add if needed.
@@ConstructionEd
Rather than a high header and blocking, I would simply use a low header.
Does osb ply need to be continuous in the inside of the a sandwich header ?
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Between High header and Drop header, High header seems providing more stability, why is it not commonly used? What is the disadvantage of it. Thank you.
It is more commonly used now in production building. I agree that it is a better system, but change takes time.
Can I cut 1 stud in the lower half from a LBW and add a header on that lower half.
What about shimming a header to eliminate gaps? Can a window slowly be destroyed if you have floating headers that slowly settle?
If the header is sagging and pushing on the window it can cause damage. But the best solution would be to rebuild the opening.
Your a great instructor, I teach a carpentry class in my local adult program. What are the dimensions of those studs for the scale model you have there? I'd love to use models like those.
Check out our channel for teachers - www.youtube.com/@TEACHConstruction
Here is the link to a video about the scaled lumber czcams.com/video/_A6u0oQ9Guw/video.html
I would quibble with the illustration on 7:34-8:36 I've always called the two plates at the top the "double top plate", the lower plate being the "First plate" and the second one being ........ "the Second plate"😉. I think that the way they are drawn might confuse students because the "Top plate" is under the Cap plate.
Thanks always for the input and for watching. There are many regional differences in terms and some builders even develop their own naming. We at TEACH try to find the most accepted and descriptive terms. You know how tricky this can be for a global audience and so many times textbook terms are not always used everywhere or by all.
The cap plate (or lesser used term "crown plate") clearly describes the uppermost position in a wall. I believe anyone learning framing would struggle with understanding your preferred term "first plate" as it's name does not indicate its location in a wall frame. To a newbie, "first plate" could possibly suggest the bottom or sole plate. As for "Second plate" - if i know nothing about framing this might be a single top plate but I am unsure. Remember, a wall with a single plate only at the top is always referred to as a "top plate", so an additional one stacked above makes the group a double top plate as you said. With three basic terms used in the most current version of the IRC - top plate, double top plate, and cap plate, walls built with either a single or double top plate can be described with less confusion and a student is also being primed for learning building code (IMHO).
I think we can both agree that communicating clearly through terms is just as important as tool and measuring skills when working in the field.
Props to you for caring and the feedback is very appreciated!
I have to agree with Joe. Bottom plate, top plate, and cap plate. The last two making combined making a double top plate. Start with the text book terms and then move to field terms
With the wall being load bearing Can I use 2x4s as headers for door opening of 24 inches?
Not a good choice for a load bearing wall. The ICC code book will give you header size guidelines
I didn't think a solid wood header would be considered a heat loss. Wood has 'R' value. But is the R value of wood less than insulation board? Log cabins are known for having good R value without insulation. Opinions please...
Wood is about R1 per inch. Insulation is much higher
For a 12' sliding glass door on an exterior wall, it appears that a 12' 6" header is required with double jacks. How many kings will be needed? Thank you
Code header tables for you location should call that out. Sometimes it is a double jack and a single king.
Thank you.
Fantastic videos!
Question…I am building basement walls with doorways. Since the walls are not load bearing can I build my door headers using 2 - 2x4’s laid flat and nailed together?
Thank you so much!
Yes, absolutely. You can also just use one 2x4 as a header. It is not carrying any additional load, it is just needed to hang the door
lI am learning a lot!!
wouldnt two 2X4s and a 1/2 inch layer end up being 4.5 inches thick and not 3.5? am I missing something? thank you
No - a 2x4 is just the name of the framing materials. The Actual measurements are 1 1/2 '' x 3 1/2 ''
Are headers required if stud is not load bearing. i.e. small office in existing garage.
Headers are only required if the wall is load-bearing. If you are adding an interior partition wall you can use the same size framing lumber as the studs in place of a structural header. You are mainly creating an upper framing member to frame in your door and a place for the trim to be nailed to.
I'm curious about the single ply header. One would logically think the single ply would be right down the middle, like an I-beam, allowing some insulation on each side. I would think that with the single ply just on one side, there is a weakness in the structure on the other side due to not being in balance. The load of the wall is down the middle, not the side, and I-beam construction, be it metal or a wooden I-joist, is "I" shaped for a reason. How is the strength of the header not impacted when moving the support from the center to the outside (or inside) edge?
While you are likely correct that moving the header from the middle to the edge could result in less strength. But the additional strength is not needed.
Great video - I'm interested in learning more about the math behind determining the number and size of the header beams to support a certain span width. I assume the same header can support the same span regardless of if it's dropped or raised and in contact with the top plate so is there another benefit for using the "modern" header placement of raising it to the top?
I learned some of the Math in my Structural Analysis class at school, not terribly fun. Now most folks just look at the IRC code book and use those tables - or of course just do what the engineer told ya to do, lol. Yes the high header can carry the same load as the drop header - in fact it can carry a bit more when it is up tight against the top-plate. The other main benefit for a high header is later remodeling. It is nice to be able to increase the height of a window without having to replace a header...
Can you do like a kreg jig to attach to the top of your frame ?
What are your thoughts on the oversized header that attaches to the underside of the top plate with another 2×4 or 2x6 attached to the bottom of the header to define all the rough openings in house which in turn eliminates all the cripple studs. I've been seeing that a lot in new builds.
The high header placement is becoming more and more popular - I am personally a fan. But the header does not have to be oversized
Can you confirm for how many king and jack studs I would need for a 16'-18' opening. Douglas County Colorado. Thank you.
Sorry, we can not provide you with engineering - but you will still need to consider several factors to take the load above into account.
You will need to know the planned materials , the number of stories etc.
codes.iccsafe.org/s/IRC2021P2/chapter-6-wall-construction/IRC2021P2-Pt03-Ch06-SecR602.7
@@ConstructionEd thank you for the advice.
Two 2x4’s and osb in the middle adds up to 3 1/2 ? How ? 2+2 = 4 plus the osb . So what am I missing
3” + 1/2”= 3&1/2”
Nominal number is 2x4
Actual is 1.5”x3.5”
Thanks for jumping in on the comment Cody - He is right, the actual dimension of a 2x4 is 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" - We cover that on our materials lesson video in detail.
Thank you so much Cody
Thanks . I’m subscribed now !
Excellent. What is the best way to attach a thicker Header to a thicker top plate (2, 2x4 on Edge). Thank you.
Not sure I understand your question. When you ask about "attaching" are you asking the types of fasteners? If you are referring to the board orientation - typically a structural header has the boards on edge.
Do you have a video showing a opening for a door on an elevation vs subgrade? That is, crawl space vs basement foundations. (Up north is mostly basements, and in the south crawl spaces.)
Also what differences if any between those rough openings with balloon framing?
Great series btw. I'm currently doing remodelling again, and these technical details is where I'm having trouble.
I am not really sure what you are asking about - the RO framing is the same over a crawl space or a basement. If the RO is in the foundation - then those are typically supported with the concrete wall and then header in place - sometimes that is in metal. Then the rest of the RO is framed out with wood so the door has something to connect to. But this construction would typically be called out on the plans and approved by an engineer.
I could be wrong - but the RO framing is the same for balloon framing - but you should consult a Structural Engineer since I assume you are talking about a multistory building since you referenced balloon framing. Especially if you are dropping in a RO where there was not one before.
For a 5 foot wide window, can you make an open box header with 2x6s' instead of getting a single ply header ???
it all depends on the load above - there are tables in building code to help determine the permissible header
I don't understand the dimension numbers for the sandwich header. If I put 2 2x4s and a 1/2" osb in between them doesn't that create a dimension of 4 1/2 inches? Same with the triple sandwich header, 3 2x4s and (2) 1/2" osb in between, doesn't that create a dimension of 7 "?
The actual dimension of a 2x4 is 1.5'' x 3.5'' - Watch our lesson on Dimensional lumber for more info on that czcams.com/video/gHYY3kDwXHo/video.html
Even thouught they call the lumber 2x4 or 2x6 for example... its not the actual size if you measure it.....
They shave 1/2” off the lumber to remove discrepancies
Your videos are very helpful. But I find that in most of the videos the education leans,
towards a basic install. Carpenters need to know to fasten headers to top plates, how many
nails to use, for what size lumber. To nail to king studs per code, nail size, number of nails. Most of all to be able to find the information in a techno world we live in. Your basic viewer doesn't know that 3 nails go to 2X6s walls, 2 for 2X4 walls and so on. Even in the AF&PA
Wall frame manual doesn't give anyone the count. R602.7.1 is the same, so were can the audience get this type of information.
I'm installing a pocket door on a load bearing wall. How many jack studs do I need for my header on either side?
Number of jack studs are determined by span and the load above. Determine the load and you should be able to find a header sizing table online or in ICC code.
Greetings. Tried starting a new account on your website, but was futile. Please give me more information on how to go about it successfully.
Sorry. Our site was down for a couple of hours today. It is back up now.
Do you have a video addressing the space between the 16 on center vertical boards that provide a "chimney" effect? Re: fire safety.
We cover some of that in the blocking lesson, which can be found on the playlist.
11:30 For a window in a high header situation the bottom of the rough opening is the sill. What is the purple member that defines the top of the rough opening called?
When the header is install high, the framing member at the top of the RO is really just a nailer. I have heard it called a header plate, or a nonstructural header, we sometimes call it a header plate. But I don't think there is an "approved" term for that member.
What’s the minimum rough opening height for an exterior out swing door that’s 30 inches x80 inches? My opening height is 83 inches
It depends on the door that you are installing. The specs will call out the dimensions, but with 3 inches to work with you likely have enough space
Got it, but where do our strong man ties come in?
Around 8:30, the single ply header, would you carry the cripple down into the header also ?
Ronnie - yes the cripples would travel from the top plate to the header in this drop header configuration - the image at 8:30 is "section view" to show the orientation of the framing member.
Would you put adhesive for the foam board n then screw the two 2x4s?
Today - I would purchase insulated headers or build a box header. But if I am making a simple sandwich header, then adhesive is not required
I’m the last example would it make sense to break up the jack studs into two pieces or is that weaker?
Jacks should always be a continuous framing member. While I have see some people slips them, it is not a good idea.
The open layout header feels riskier (I’m an absolute beginner just sharing thoughts). For example if you placed weight on the weak side of that open header where the insulation is I feel like you could have some major screw ups. Imagine building on top of that header you wouldn’t likely know that an entire side is hollow and could put weight on it in a way that could compromise it. Also I’ve heard that the first thing a piece of dimensional lumber wants to do is turn when it has weight on it (example in standing joists). Would this tumble effect be more likely to happen on the “weak” insulation side of the open header layout?
I often rely on the tables in the code and what the engineer has specified. I personally like the headers that are boxed with insulation in the middle.
I had never heard of that kind of header, and I was thinking the same thing. If I were a pro building from engineered plans, of course I would build it as shown. But I'm a DIYer building my house, and I don't think I'd do that kind! This was helpful. I have half my house built, and your videos show me where I went wrong (not many wrong spots, thank goodness), where I went right, and how to do it better on the rest of the house. There are so many practical things you only learn by doing. Like how do you handle it when most of your lumber is warped in at least one direction? I've gotten a lot better with that, but warped, twisted and splitting lumber is always a headache. Is there a video for that, other than to insist on picking out your own boards at the lumber yard?
What type of header is best for a garden shed?
It all depends on the load from above. On sheds, the doors are often in the gable wall with very little load to worry about.
You're a great teacher. Where do I sign up?
we have courses at TradeSkillsU.online
Say if I had a 6"monoletic pore wall all the way around but I want to have 2x8 floor joist and 2x4 framing for the interior walls how do I do it
if you are asking about the floor construction it all depends on the span distance of the joists and the loads you are expecting on the floor. As far as 2x4 walls, that is fine depending on the usage and your local code. Meaning 2x4 may not provide for enough installation in cold climates- but in warmer zones it is often allowed. I am sure that does not answer your question, but much more information is required to design a floor.
@@ConstructionEd 24" span
It's in south America it's a warm climate
I will be adding drywall on the interior its going to be a 3 story house and it's going to be 40ftx60ft
3 stories is a lot of weight for only a 2x8 joist. I would check with an engineer
🙏
👍
It looks like you are watching all of our videos Charles - keep it up
if only we had more guys like this around.... a boy with a tool in each hand has no hands left to do drugs or simp for women on only fans.....
If it were only that easy
Teach guys to not leave there piss jugs and bottles in the walls
I have unfortunately see this, but I thinking trying to TRAIN it is a bad idea is too late - that should be momma's job
While I like the High header design, I see that is is less efficient, it uses more lumber, so more thermal bridging, and more costly over all.
The affect of thermal bridging on ambient room temperature is minuscule, it’s not even worth mentioning. There’s no need to insulate a header or exterior corners and T’s.
While the effects of thermal bridging are somewhat debatable, and sometimes unavoidable the 2021 IECC and IRC require several mitigation steps