Excellent video David. Even though I've done about 20 brews on my Grainfather, your little tips, like doughing in properly are always really useful. Looking forward to the conical review, it looks a lovely piece of kit. Cheers.
+Wild Boar Brewing Great to hear :) The conical review should be by ready early next week :) I am already working on it, just need more footage as the fermentation continues .
Hi David, have just sampled and done the FG checks on a version of your Juicy IPA recipe, that said the recipe isn't entirely faithful to yours, the finished beer is fabulous and a real treat for my taste buds, even had the seal of approval from the wife, i'll put a picture on the F/B Grainfather group in the next day or 2...thanks for sharing this awesome brew ;-)
Great to hear Gary. Yes people do seem to love this recipe. Personally I prefer the latest NEIPA recipe I uploaded but its all down to personal taste in the end :)
Another great video. I brewed a hazy, juicy IPA on my grainfather this past weekend too. I was more like 60% pale, 20% white wheat and 20% oats. Went with citra, mosaic and experimental grapefruit for my hops. Going to have to try out your recipe sometime.
Great video and recipe. Brewed it yesterday and its bubbling away nicely in the fermenter. One thing that I didn't see a mention of: How long do you suggest for conditioning and at what temperature? Had my GF, conical fermenters and glycol chiller for a couple of months. The Juicy IPA was our 6th brew and absolutely loving it. Your videos have been massivley useful and helped us make the decision to go for the GF kit. Cheers!
Thanks Chris, glad you enjoyed it. With beers with much hop character like this it really is a question of taste as to how quickly you start drinking them. Some just wait for carbonation, others wait a few weeks. Ales are best stored at 14 deg c. Hope this helps :)
Great video Dave, I'm truly amazed by the time and effort you dedicate to brewing and appreciate the brewing knowledge you're sharing with us! I keep coming back to your videos for style guidelines, brew techniques for GF tips and most importantly for inspiration. Everytime I rewatching your videos I keep finding something new, something useful. I see in here you pitch good bit of Kveik starter, I wonder was it before you used "one spoon pitch" method? I'm really fascinated about Kveik, would like to know more about which Kveik suits what style. Maybe one day a video getting more in depth of which Kveik can roughly substitute which yeast or smthg? Thanks
Great to hear and very much appreciated :) Actually the teaspoon method as I call it is hundreds of years old but was kept to Norway for most of this time. Yes , I have individual kveik type videos already and plan to do more soon. Where possible I give sub information for yeast in the style guides also.
Hi . Thanks again for another great video. I’ve been watching many of your posts Over the past few months . Can I check how you carried out the dry Hopping . Did you simply add the hop pellets to a bag then drop into your new fermentation unit ( Which i have just purchased 👍🏻) on the last few days big opening it up and simply dropping the bag in ? Thanks 🙏🏻
Great video, i am always keen to see your new grandfather brewing processes. Will check out that new conical and with me living in hot climes interested in hearing how that hot fermentation goes for off flavors.
Great video again David. As I said on Facebook I have a Conical ordered. Just got an email confirming delivery tomorrow so looking forward to the first brew in it. I am going to be examining alternative cooling methods though as the glycol chiller is a bit out of reach for now. I did hear someone might be producing something based around an ice bath, pump and valve.
+Chris Meek Glad you enjoyed it Chris. Hop spiders work fine, the problem is I mostly brew small batches and they do not work on those of course because the wort line is too low.
Hi David. Thank you for your great videos, they have been very informative and have helped convince me to dive into the world of home brewing. Do you have any recommendations on must read books to help me kickstart the learning process. Many thanks Eddie
Thanks Eddie:) How to Brew by John Palmer is a must read. After that look at books by Randy Mosher and see what appears to you. Radical brewing is awesome stuff :)
Hi David. Thanks for the videos I'm new to all grain brewing and they've helped me hugely. One quick question, do you use standard flaked oats i.e. porridge oats from the supermarket or can I use flaked torrified oats?
I like the look of this recipe and would like to give it a try. I can't seem to find flaked oats or wheat on the site that I normally order from. Would you recommend malted wheat / oats or torrified wheat /oats? Thanks in advance.
@@philreilly2115 Flaked oats are often called "rolled oats" in Australia, and you can simply buy them at the supermarket in the breakfast cereal section.
I brew smaller batches to have more variety of beer and to brew more often :) You cannot simply double a recipe in full, the hops are the issue. Here is a guide on how to calculate it so that it works out:- czcams.com/video/EiGUQgW2xmI/video.html
Hi David, Let me say this first off… I really enjoy your video reviews and recipes. You've helped me decide on my recent purchased of the Grainfather system and now probably the Conical Fermenter! I have a question on the Juicy IPA recipe. I noticed the boil time is 30 minutes for the half batch. I want to make a full 5-5.5 gal batch, would you still do the 30 min or double it to 60 min? I’ve heard of some recipes only doing a 30-45 min boil time but I’ve always done 60-90 min boils. Any help on this would be great! Cheers! Chris
+Chris Genest Hey Chris, thats great to hear :) The batch volume is irrelevant to boil and mash details. This one benefits from the shorter boil :) Some brews have no boil at all also. All part of the fun:)
Hi! G30, soon BZ65G4, Kjeller 5 😉 Just wondering, I have the paddle, and have used it for a while, without having the opportunity to splitbatch for testing (Hot side aeration - not worried, attenuation and the likes). I have noticed that you haven't shown the use of the paddle in your later videos. What are your thoughts on the use of this device for now? Do you use it?
Hi Leif, great to hear about you upgrade, you will not look back. I no longer use a paddle as all the brewing systems I use have a false bottom that does the job very well on its own. It will be the same for you with the Brewzilla 65 GEN 4. Enjoy 🍻🍻
nice and congrats with your fermenter. I wonder why you pause the timer during cooking, when stirring and cycling through the chiller. is there that much difference between 98 and 100 degrees temp?
+JoostHart Thanks :) Yes its important to pause the timer due to hop utilisation lost during this time. The difference is not huge but for me its all about repeatability, so if something is different then it should be compensated for. This methodology is from my commercial brewing mindset, so is passed on to all my brewing.
Hi David. You seem to be the best source for information on using the Grainfather conical fermenter, and as I have recently purchased one, and just started a West Coast IPA 3 days ago, I have been looking everywhere for information on when to do your FIRST yeast dump from the Grainfather fermenter. The manual says to yeast dump every 2-3 days, but WHEN do you do the first one? I am exactly 3 days in, and the airlock has been bubbling away rapidly for 2 days. Can you advise on when I should start and how often to yeast dump? I also plan to add 4 oz. of dry hops at some point - any advice on the best time to add those loose hop pellets in? Sorry for all the questions, I have not found the answers and I trust your opinion. Cheers from Canada!
Thanks Andrew. I dump after storm fermentation is over and then once fermentation is over. If you have any sticking then shoot co2 up the bottom tap for a second to clear it.
Hi David, thank you for your reply. Unfortunately I have a problem now, as I dry-hopped 4 oz. loose, and now both the yeast dump and beer valve are blocked. I will make sure to use hop bags going forward (as you have recommended) but to salvage this batch, any idea how to unclog the Grainfather's beer inlet? I could put a sanitized object in from the top, but not sure how to clear the beer inlet intake holes as I won''t be able to see them. I don't have C02, and I will likely need to bottle in the next day or two. I would appreciate your suggestions as I have no idea how to get these two valves unclogged. I am a little disappointed that my first Grainfather conical ferment has gone sideways towards the end. Yes, it has maintained temperature amazingly well, but now I have gone and clogged the valves. Please help.
C02 would be my first choice, failing that a pump of some kind connected will unblock it for you. Just drink it within a few months and should be fine :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Hi David, I ended up attaching a small piece of silicone tubing to the end of a large syringe, attached that to the beer valve, and the suction from pulling on the syringe managed to free the blockage, so I am able to bottle on schedule. I have also ordered a stainless steel corny keg dry hopper to keep my hops collected in the fermenter for next time. Thanks again.
Hi David - followed your recipe substituting your hops with an assortment of NZ hops - Pacific Jade, Rakau, Wakatu, Wai-iti. Friends say it is the best yet - and this was only my 4th brew on the Grainfather. It's very drinkable and I've almost run out!! Recently invested in the GF Connect and appreciate the difference that makes. Just wondering about your experience with the GF recipe builder. First Wort hops? Although there is a category for this in the hop schedule - it is not possible to designate a time and as such no IBUs are generated. In practice the FWH are there for the whole boil and must contribute to IBU. The work-around is to put the same hops into the recipe twice - once for FWH and once for the boil. This feels a bit clumsy. Also noted some problems with syncing of recipes/brew sessions between the GF App and the web application. As an experienced GF user, would appreciate any thoughts you have on these couple of issues. Cheers David.
+David Mallard Great to hear that the basis of the recipe went down well. Hops can be changed with no problems :) Yes the recipe creator is still needing some functions added and tweaking. All my recipes are within beersmith and exported into the creator for sharing purposes.
Hey, thanks for a great video! I am for sure gonna try this brew. One question though. When adding whirlpool hops, I've seen ppl say that you should do it when the temp is around 80*C. Especially when brewing a NEIPA. How do you go around this when using the Grainfather? Emersion chiller, or just recirculate til you are on the right temp? Ray
Should is probably the wrong way to put it. You will gain a fuller flavour from the hops if you do. You could try recirculation through the chiller till you hit 80 faster would be to use a cooling spiral.
Hi David - great video! Do you find stopping the timer for ten minutes during the boil to sanitise the chiller affects the IBUs or timing of the hop additions during the boil?
Hi David. I’m very new to home brewing and finding your vids very helpful. Quick question. If one is using the Grainfather and Grainfather Fermenter as a ‘system’, is there any reason why you could not (or would not) eliminate the counterflow cooler stage and transfer the wort straight from the Grainfather to the fermenter to cool it down to pitching temp? I’m just thinking that it further reduces the risk of contamination. Just a thought.
The part where you run the wort through the pump, does that also run through your thrumometer? Isn't there a temperature limit to how hot the wort can be when coming into contact with the thrumometer?
Hmm. Hops don’t really define a session beer the alcohol does. All the usual favorites will work like Citra, Amarillo and Cascade. This Mango IPA is session strength and the essence is optional:- czcams.com/video/MhruUqJQZ2k/video.html
Hi David, I need your advice. I’m between buying a new grainfather or a used 5O liters Braumeister for approximately the same amount of money. Can you give me some advice please? Thanks!
Hi Sergio, The BM is certainly built better plus to a higher standard and has 100% replaceable parts. They are much more expensive new but if you can find a used one in good shape then this could be seen as better value for money. The GF systems I have covered with reviews on my channel (both the 30L and 70L) they offer a different way to brew with Bluetooth but once the heating elements die (10 years life perhaps) then the system is finished. In the end it is all pros and cons but only you can decide what matters to you :)
+Chris Griffiths Thanks , glad you liked it. I did not, its not enough to bother with at these low levels. If the grist is 40% plus with high protein then I do.
Hi David, I was looking at this the other day on FB and mentioned substituting ingredients. I might wait until I get another order of malts but i want to brew in the next few days but I don't have flaked wheat. I do have some torrified wheat though. Would that make much difference as an alternative? Cheers!
Hey Tom, Yes I remember. I dont think there will be any real difference. They are very similar, just in a different form. Thats a sub that would be perfectly fine.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Hi David, is this suitable for bottling or would the high amount of hops make oxidation a problem? Was going to ferment in a bucket with a tap on and bottle straight from there
Awesome! :) If i am doing a 10l batch is there any reason not to sparge apart from efficieny? Would it affect mash PH if i say mashed in with 17l. I would be doing a recirculating mash in a GF type system without a basket.
Thats not really possible because of the time lag between the brew and it being ready to drink. I do make tasting videos though, later on with the cooperation of beer judges. Heres a playlist:- czcams.com/play/PLeY07JqsrXM8TBozkEtNnAz3AqVC_ANhu.html
Hi David, another interesting video. I have one question as I am going to try this recipe this week. In the method you say mash in at 65c and mash out at 75c, what does this mean? Is it raising the temp at the end of the mash period, andifso how long for. Thanks in advance.
+richardcampbell6972 Sorry for the Jargon, I realise it can be a barrier at first. Mash in is the period where you are having the grain in your inner basket and recirculating using the pump. This is usually done between 60-70 deg c for 60 minutes, depending on the desired effect. 65 deg c is quite common. Once this is finished you usually raise up to 75 deg c for 10 minutes . This time in heating up from the "mash in" temperature to "mash out" temperature at 75 deg c is not counted. Once at 75 you start the clock. I hope this clarifies this for you. If not please do let me know:)
Hi Dave, just a quick question. I brewed your Juicy IPA it’s now been in the fermentor for just over 2 weeks, when I give it a quick taste test it has a really bitter taste. Did yours have the same?
No not at all. Its probably too early to worry, especially as you probably still have dry hops in the FV, which can give a temporary perception of added bitterness but just in case here are some thoughts:- Did you balance the alpha acid % of your hops with the ibu of mine for each addition? If not then your IBU could be way over what is intended.
@@leehaslam7231 If it does turn out that the AA is way too high then I would suggest blending the beer with something that lacks bitterness. This is best done small scale first then upscale.
What's you FG, and what yeast did you use? When you are brewing NEIP you need to be careful which yeast strain you are using, otherwise you might end up with very dry beer lacking that juiciness and sweetness typical for NEIPA, to balance it out.
i can adjust the hops amount and balance the BU:GU up till the point of 0 min hop addition. how do i know im not over killing the hops addition during dry hopping? how do i know what amount is 'enough is enough'?
Good question Chris. Dry hopping amounts do not fall the same way. Anything from 4-10g is pretty acceptable per litre. Some venture as far as 15g but this to my mind is very extreme.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I am still in the region of SMASH and trying to determine each hops' smell, over all bitterness that I like, the mouthfeel that I want, before mixing in different hops in a brew. looks like dry hopping will be way back at the schedule. plus, dry hopping come with a high cost, in the place I am in. Thanks david.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew i thought so too. just that it is taking too long plus SMASH very often has very mono flavour and lack layer. plus some of those low AA will be consumed alot to get the target IBU. perhaps the only fun now is to add flavours into bottles to see how it will cope
Hi David, is the micro pipework really necessary for say a 12L batch or could i just use the regular pipework? Or at least what is the minimum batch size the regular pipework can handle?
I would say it could work if there is enough malt but for the sake of the small price of the small pipework I would just get it. It can be mixed with the standard pipework also to cover all sorts of situations.
+Daft Cat Brewing I wouldn't buy the commercial liquid varieties, they aren't the real thing sadly. Join the "kveik" facebook group and you can buy the real stuff there :)
Hello David! Thank you for yours advices how to use GF in the good way. I will make 20l batch of this beer. I can also boil only for 30 minutes? Or i need to double boiling time? And also it will be good to add lactobacterius to this recipe? Will it works? Maybe it will be better to increase mash in temperature to 69 celcius degrees to have more sweetness flavors?
Hi Hubert. No problem, glad you found it useful :) Yes boil time is the same for any volume. Lacto is very sensitive to alpha acids , so hoppy styles like this really are not going to work. What will work is to kettle sour it. I show how to do this in this video:- czcams.com/video/KysIMLdUATQ/video.html
@@DavidHeathHomebrew last time when i used probiotics it worked well. Maybe can I change your receipe and use less grams of hops at first minutes of boiling to decrease alpha acids in my beer? Using hops at whirpool/flameout should help?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew or do you have any idea how to make good Sour IPA using lacto from probiotics? Did u try it? How to add hops, in which part of boiling time?
Thanks David, I am about to give this a go. But notice this recipe differs from your recipe on the GR App which is for a 25L batch. Which of these two recipes is the most recent?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks, David. Love the videos and the help they provide. As you can tell I'm new to homebrewing. Do you reckon that I need to increase the amount of Cascade hops to provide the same flavour?
Great to hear :) Use the alpha acid % as your guide. In each of my recipes I provide an IBU score for each addition. It is important to match that with your hops as the AA% will vary. I have a guide here that explains this in full using Brewfather:- czcams.com/video/lYA_UzDkW9o/video.html
Hi, that really depends on the style. Some styles need much more time than others. Here is a guide that pinpoints the ones that are fast:- czcams.com/video/xkCfEqDcfFA/video.html
Hi David, I am attempting this beer using the Liberty Jack yeast, what temperature should I ferment at? (I have the conical fermenter), Many thanks, Stuart.
+stuart webb I would start at 18 deg c for a week then add 1 deg per day until you hit 21 deg c. Stay at 21 till you get consistant gravity for three days.
Hello David. Nice video. How come you want to filter with irish moss? Stylewise i prefer this kind of IPAs to be unfiltered. Have you also tried to whirlpool below 80 degress? You will have unwanted IBUs if its over . This is just my preferens - happy to hear your take on it :) Cheers
+Andreas Petersson Irish moss is not a filter it is used to clear the beer. Its a matter of just how the beer looks, personal taste really :) Whirlpool hops below 80. If I am adding whirlpool hops that I really want to shine then I use a hop tea method instead. Its alot less fuss and gives a better result. See my video on this :)
David Heath Yeah Its a clearing agent. Potato potato almost :) I would disagree that looks is a matter of taste. The looks on neipas should be hazy and not clear. But since neipa is not a style yet i guess we all can have our take on the style :) cheers
+Andreas Petersson I am a firm believer in people brewing beer to their own taste. If you want a clear wheat beer then that's your choice , for example. The only time a detail like that will really matter is when you enter a competition.
Hi Lia, at first using the kveik temperature until fermentation is over. I start the dry hop close to the end of fermentation so this is usually a day. Then I reduce the temps to 18 deg c for the rest of the dry hop period.
+coolkidirish I would suggest 18 deg c in the first week then add 1 deg c a day until at 21 deg c till finish. You can go up to 23 with this yeast but ive never had to.
+Mr M Its "Kveik" , which is Norwegian farmhouse yeast. Ive made a series of videos on this magic yeast. You can use any yeast that will suit the style. :)
Haha no :) Kveik yeast. In short it ferments in 1-3 days and the resulting beer us ready to drink very quickly with a great taste. Here is more information:- czcams.com/play/PLeY07JqsrXM_gv11NeUHLX32M1YxXVFnn.html
Just found your site and love the videos and subbed. We just started doing the whole CZcams brewing vids, so check us out if you get a chance. We just brewed three different juicy (New England) IPA's and should have that brew-day footage out in the next 2 weeks. Cheers!
Excellent video David. Even though I've done about 20 brews on my Grainfather, your little tips, like doughing in properly are always really useful. Looking forward to the conical review, it looks a lovely piece of kit. Cheers.
+Wild Boar Brewing Great to hear :) The conical review should be by ready early next week :)
I am already working on it, just need more footage as the fermentation continues .
Hi David, have just sampled and done the FG checks on a version of your Juicy IPA recipe, that said the recipe isn't entirely faithful to yours, the finished beer is fabulous and a real treat for my taste buds, even had the seal of approval from the wife, i'll put a picture on the F/B Grainfather group in the next day or 2...thanks for sharing this awesome brew ;-)
Great to hear Gary. Yes people do seem to love this recipe. Personally I prefer the latest NEIPA recipe I uploaded but its all down to personal taste in the end :)
Thanks for all the great, super informative videos. I cant wait to start all grain brewing
Glad you find them useful John :)
Another great video. I brewed a hazy, juicy IPA on my grainfather this past weekend too. I was more like 60% pale, 20% white wheat and 20% oats. Went with citra, mosaic and experimental grapefruit for my hops. Going to have to try out your recipe sometime.
+sstproductionsmi Try this out, I believe the grainbill /recipe here works great for a wider audience. Let me know what you think :)
Great video and recipe. Brewed it yesterday and its bubbling away nicely in the fermenter. One thing that I didn't see a mention of: How long do you suggest for conditioning and at what temperature? Had my GF, conical fermenters and glycol chiller for a couple of months. The Juicy IPA was our 6th brew and absolutely loving it. Your videos have been massivley useful and helped us make the decision to go for the GF kit. Cheers!
Thanks Chris, glad you enjoyed it. With beers with much hop character like this it really is a question of taste as to how quickly you start drinking them. Some just wait for carbonation, others wait a few weeks.
Ales are best stored at 14 deg c. Hope this helps :)
Great video Dave, I'm truly amazed by the time and effort you dedicate to brewing and appreciate the brewing knowledge you're sharing with us! I keep coming back to your videos for style guidelines, brew techniques for GF tips and most importantly for inspiration. Everytime I rewatching your videos I keep finding something new, something useful. I see in here you pitch good bit of Kveik starter, I wonder was it before you used "one spoon pitch" method? I'm really fascinated about Kveik, would like to know more about which Kveik suits what style. Maybe one day a video getting more in depth of which Kveik can roughly substitute which yeast or smthg?
Thanks
Great to hear and very much appreciated :) Actually the teaspoon method as I call it is hundreds of years old but was kept to Norway for most of this time. Yes , I have individual kveik type videos already and plan to do more soon. Where possible I give sub information for yeast in the style guides also.
Hi . Thanks again for another great video. I’ve been watching many of your posts
Over the past few months . Can I check how you carried out the dry Hopping . Did you simply add the hop pellets to a bag then drop into your new fermentation unit ( Which i have just purchased 👍🏻) on the last few days big opening it up and simply dropping the bag in ? Thanks 🙏🏻
Hi Chris, Great to hear. I use either SS containers or hop bags. These are carefully added from the top so there is no splashing 🍻🍻🍻
Great video, i am always keen to see your new grandfather brewing processes. Will check out that new conical and with me living in hot climes interested in hearing how that hot fermentation goes for off flavors.
+David Almond Well you know that's kveik yeast, unlike regular yeast!
thanks David, I will definitely try this recipe.
Great, hope you enjoy it as much as others :)
Great video again David. As I said on Facebook I have a Conical ordered. Just got an email confirming delivery tomorrow so looking forward to the first brew in it. I am going to be examining alternative cooling methods though as the glycol chiller is a bit out of reach for now. I did hear someone might be producing something based around an ice bath, pump and valve.
+wrongway2001 I am sure you will be very happy with it. Please do let me know how your alternative cooling methods go.
Great video, David. I look forward to trying this recipe. Most definitely will be be subbing your bicycle pump with a hop spider. Cheers!
+Chris Meek Glad you enjoyed it Chris. Hop spiders work fine, the problem is I mostly brew small batches and they do not work on those of course because the wort line is too low.
Hi David.
Thank you for your great videos, they have been very informative and have helped convince me to dive into the world of home brewing.
Do you have any recommendations on must read books to help me kickstart the learning process.
Many thanks
Eddie
Thanks Eddie:) How to Brew by John Palmer is a must read. After that look at books by Randy Mosher and see what appears to you. Radical brewing is awesome stuff :)
Wow. Super Hoppy. I bet this is cracking stuff.
If you love hoppy then it sure is:)
Another superb video
thanks for sharing
cheers Rich
+Rich Mottershaw Thank you :)
You mentioned a honey beer. I’ve looked but can’t find it. Could you please send me a link to it.
Many thanks.
Pete
Sure, czcams.com/video/-W9Y5kH-TJg/video.html
Thank you for another nice and interesting brew video!
+Kęstutis Andrulionis my pleasure, very glad you enjoyed it :)
Force et Courage un Grand MERCI pour ta vidéo ! ;)
Thank you :)
I thought Croc's were bad but Choc's N Sock's! WoW
+Louise Woodthorpe lol, easy on and off, ideal for a brew room :)
Hi David. Thanks for the videos I'm new to all grain brewing and they've helped me hugely. One quick question, do you use standard flaked oats i.e. porridge oats from the supermarket or can I use flaked torrified oats?
Great to hear :) As long as the oats are natural then they will be fine. Avoid many cereal types for breakfast as they are not.
Great video, David , well done thanks Ivan
+MultiChef888 Glad you enjoyed it , thanks :)
Are the crocs and socks necessary for this brew? Could the bottom scraping also be done with a wooden spoon, to prevent scratching?
Haha. You could use a wooden spoon sure. I just prefer SS for the boil. It is easy enough to scrape the bottom carefully with SS though.
nice socks!!!!
Haha, thanks :)
I like the look of this recipe and would like to give it a try. I can't seem to find flaked oats or wheat on the site that I normally order from. Would you recommend malted wheat / oats or torrified wheat /oats? Thanks in advance.
Great. Personally I favour flaked but if not then malted. Just personal preferences :)
Perfect. Thank you!
@@philreilly2115 Flaked oats are often called "rolled oats" in Australia, and you can simply buy them at the supermarket in the breakfast cereal section.
Great :)
Could you just double the recipe to get a full batch going, I don't get the point of half batches- the same amount of work for half the beer!
I brew smaller batches to have more variety of beer and to brew more often :) You cannot simply double a recipe in full, the hops are the issue. Here is a guide on how to calculate it so that it works out:- czcams.com/video/EiGUQgW2xmI/video.html
Great video, David. Would like to see the final result :)
+knudar I am hosting a bjcp evening very soon where beers will be judged. Results will be put into a video :)
Hi David, Let me say this first off… I really enjoy your video reviews and recipes. You've helped me decide on my recent purchased of the Grainfather system and now probably the Conical Fermenter! I have a question on the Juicy IPA recipe. I noticed the boil time is 30 minutes for the half batch. I want to make a full 5-5.5 gal batch, would you still do the 30 min or double it to 60 min? I’ve heard of some recipes only doing a 30-45 min boil time but I’ve always done 60-90 min boils. Any help on this would be great!
Cheers!
Chris
+Chris Genest Hey Chris, thats great to hear :) The batch volume is irrelevant to boil and mash details. This one benefits from the shorter boil :) Some brews have no boil at all also. All part of the fun:)
Awesome! thx for the reply.
Hi! G30, soon BZ65G4, Kjeller 5 😉
Just wondering, I have the paddle, and have used it for a while, without having the opportunity to splitbatch for testing (Hot side aeration - not worried, attenuation and the likes). I have noticed that you haven't shown the use of the paddle in your later videos.
What are your thoughts on the use of this device for now? Do you use it?
Hi Leif, great to hear about you upgrade, you will not look back. I no longer use a paddle as all the brewing systems I use have a false bottom that does the job very well on its own. It will be the same for you with the Brewzilla 65 GEN 4. Enjoy 🍻🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank you very much, really look forward to it 😎👍
🍻🍻🍻
Hi
I cannot get my hands on neither Warrior hops nor Ahtanum hops. Do you recommend any substitute for these two?
Hi Christian,
You can sub warrior with Nugget and Ahtanum with Cascade. I hope this helps 🙂
nice and congrats with your fermenter. I wonder why you pause the timer during cooking, when stirring and cycling through the chiller. is there that much difference between 98 and 100 degrees temp?
+JoostHart Thanks :) Yes its important to pause the timer due to hop utilisation lost during this time. The difference is not huge but for me its all about repeatability, so if something is different then it should be compensated for. This methodology is from my commercial brewing mindset, so is passed on to all my brewing.
Hi David. You seem to be the best source for information on using the Grainfather conical fermenter, and as I have recently purchased one, and just started a West Coast IPA 3 days ago, I have been looking everywhere for information on when to do your FIRST yeast dump from the Grainfather fermenter. The manual says to yeast dump every 2-3 days, but WHEN do you do the first one? I am exactly 3 days in, and the airlock has been bubbling away rapidly for 2 days. Can you advise on when I should start and how often to yeast dump? I also plan to add 4 oz. of dry hops at some point - any advice on the best time to add those loose hop pellets in? Sorry for all the questions, I have not found the answers and I trust your opinion. Cheers from Canada!
Thanks Andrew. I dump after storm fermentation is over and then once fermentation is over. If you have any sticking then shoot co2 up the bottom tap for a second to clear it.
Hi David, thank you for your reply. Unfortunately I have a problem now, as I dry-hopped 4 oz. loose, and now both the yeast dump and beer valve are blocked. I will make sure to use hop bags going forward (as you have recommended) but to salvage this batch, any idea how to unclog the Grainfather's beer inlet? I could put a sanitized object in from the top, but not sure how to clear the beer inlet intake holes as I won''t be able to see them. I don't have C02, and I will likely need to bottle in the next day or two. I would appreciate your suggestions as I have no idea how to get these two valves unclogged. I am a little disappointed that my first Grainfather conical ferment has gone sideways towards the end. Yes, it has maintained temperature amazingly well, but now I have gone and clogged the valves. Please help.
C02 would be my first choice, failing that a pump of some kind connected will unblock it for you. Just drink it within a few months and should be fine :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Hi David, I ended up attaching a small piece of silicone tubing to the end of a large syringe, attached that to the beer valve, and the suction from pulling on the syringe managed to free the blockage, so I am able to bottle on schedule. I have also ordered a stainless steel corny keg dry hopper to keep my hops collected in the fermenter for next time. Thanks again.
Great, glad its a problem solved :)
Hi David - followed your recipe substituting your hops with an assortment of NZ hops - Pacific Jade, Rakau, Wakatu, Wai-iti. Friends say it is the best yet - and this was only my 4th brew on the Grainfather. It's very drinkable and I've almost run out!! Recently invested in the GF Connect and appreciate the difference that makes. Just wondering about your experience with the GF recipe builder. First Wort hops? Although there is a category for this in the hop schedule - it is not possible to designate a time and as such no IBUs are generated. In practice the FWH are there for the whole boil and must contribute to IBU. The work-around is to put the same hops into the recipe twice - once for FWH and once for the boil. This feels a bit clumsy. Also noted some problems with syncing of recipes/brew sessions between the GF App and the web application. As an experienced GF user, would appreciate any thoughts you have on these couple of issues. Cheers David.
+David Mallard Great to hear that the basis of the recipe went down well. Hops can be changed with no problems :) Yes the recipe creator is still needing some functions added and tweaking. All my recipes are within beersmith and exported into the creator for sharing purposes.
Thanks David - understood!
Hey, thanks for a great video! I am for sure gonna try this brew. One question though. When adding whirlpool hops, I've seen ppl say that you should do it when the temp is around 80*C. Especially when brewing a NEIPA. How do you go around this when using the Grainfather? Emersion chiller, or just recirculate til you are on the right temp? Ray
Should is probably the wrong way to put it. You will gain a fuller flavour from the hops if you do. You could try recirculation through the chiller till you hit 80 faster would be to use a cooling spiral.
I love this channel
🍻🍻🍻
Hi David - great video! Do you find stopping the timer for ten minutes during the boil to sanitise the chiller affects the IBUs or timing of the hop additions during the boil?
On a homebrew level your ibu has a 30% differential if you are lucky as it is.
Hi David. I’m very new to home brewing and finding your vids very helpful. Quick question. If one is using the Grainfather and Grainfather Fermenter as a ‘system’, is there any reason why you could not (or would not) eliminate the counterflow cooler stage and transfer the wort straight from the Grainfather to the fermenter to cool it down to pitching temp? I’m just thinking that it further reduces the risk of contamination. Just a thought.
Hi, great to hear. You can do this kind of. You just need to avoid cooling in the conical with a gycol chiller over 40 deg c.
Thanks David. So by this you mean the wort should be no higher than 40 deg C when you transfer it to the fermenter?
Yes, if you intend to cool it with the GF glycol chiller.
Yes, if you intend to cool it with the GF glycol chiller.
Got it. Thanks very much
The part where you run the wort through the pump, does that also run through your thrumometer? Isn't there a temperature limit to how hot the wort can be when coming into contact with the thrumometer?
There is but after over 100 brews with no issues I think we can safely say its no problem :)
What kind of strainer exactly did you put over the overflow while circulating? Thanks
I bought it on Ebay. Search for large sink strainer and after a little searching you should see the type I am using.
Hi David, Great video what hops would you recommend for good well balanced session ipa cheers Conor
Hmm. Hops don’t really define a session beer the alcohol does. All the usual favorites will work like Citra, Amarillo and Cascade. This Mango IPA is session strength and the essence is optional:- czcams.com/video/MhruUqJQZ2k/video.html
Hi David,
I need your advice. I’m between buying a new grainfather or a used 5O liters Braumeister for approximately the same amount of money.
Can you give me some advice please?
Thanks!
Hi Sergio, The BM is certainly built better plus to a higher standard and has 100% replaceable parts. They are much more expensive new but if you can find a used one in good shape then this could be seen as better value for money. The GF systems I have covered with reviews on my channel (both the 30L and 70L) they offer a different way to brew with Bluetooth but once the heating elements die (10 years life perhaps) then the system is finished. In the end it is all pros and cons but only you can decide what matters to you :)
Quality video as always ... Quick question with the amount of oats an wheat you have, do you use any rice hulls ?
+Chris Griffiths Thanks , glad you liked it. I did not, its not enough to bother with at these low levels. If the grist is 40% plus with high protein then I do.
This has been on my to do list for a while , alas I cannot source any Ahtanum , would Willamette be ok ? I also have Chinook at my disposal.....
Better to use Cascade instead :)
I have a few hops in my stock but no Cascade 🙄
I would suggest buying some for the best result :)
Advice will be taken, would you suggest US type or UK ?
It hurts me to say but US :)
Hi David, I was looking at this the other day on FB and mentioned substituting ingredients. I might wait until I get another order of malts but i want to brew in the next few days but I don't have flaked wheat. I do have some torrified wheat though. Would that make much difference as an alternative? Cheers!
Hey Tom, Yes I remember. I dont think there will be any real difference. They are very similar, just in a different form. Thats a sub that would be perfectly fine.
Great Video as always David! How much strike water and how much sparge water to get the 12 litres post boil?
+Lewis Hume Thanks :) 12.7L strike water and 5.5L of sparge water. You can find calcs for this in the GF apps and on the main website under tools :)
Hi David, how long was the hop stand for this on? Guessing 10 minutes?
Yes, 10 minutes :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Hi David, is this suitable for bottling or would the high amount of hops make oxidation a problem? Was going to ferment in a bucket with a tap on and bottle straight from there
Sure. Any beer is suitable for bottling if you are very careful with splashing and such like.
Awesome! :) If i am doing a 10l batch is there any reason not to sparge apart from efficieny? Would it affect mash PH if i say mashed in with 17l. I would be doing a recirculating mash in a GF type system without a basket.
+AllianceOfCalgon Sparging has also been proven to benefit the taste of a beer. My advice, always sparge.
Would be nice to see taste videos too right after brew
Thats not really possible because of the time lag between the brew and it being ready to drink. I do make tasting videos though, later on with the cooperation of beer judges. Heres a playlist:- czcams.com/play/PLeY07JqsrXM8TBozkEtNnAz3AqVC_ANhu.html
Yes when your beer is ready to drink would be cool to see the final product is what I was trying to say.
Ahh yes. I do that :) See the playlist :)
Hi David, another interesting video. I have one question as I am going to try this recipe this week. In the method you say mash in at 65c and mash out at 75c, what does this mean? Is it raising the temp at the end of the mash period, andifso how long for. Thanks in advance.
+richardcampbell6972 Sorry for the Jargon, I realise it can be a barrier at first. Mash in is the period where you are having the grain in your inner basket and recirculating using the pump. This is usually done between 60-70 deg c for 60 minutes, depending on the desired effect. 65 deg c is quite common. Once this is finished you usually raise up to 75 deg c for 10 minutes . This time in heating up from the "mash in" temperature to "mash out" temperature at 75 deg c is not counted. Once at 75 you start the clock. I hope this clarifies this for you. If not please do let me know:)
Hi Dave, just a quick question. I brewed your Juicy IPA it’s now been in the fermentor for just over 2 weeks, when I give it a quick taste test it has a really bitter taste. Did yours have the same?
No not at all. Its probably too early to worry, especially as you probably still have dry hops in the FV, which can give a temporary perception of added bitterness but just in case here are some thoughts:- Did you balance the alpha acid % of your hops with the ibu of mine for each addition? If not then your IBU could be way over what is intended.
Thanks Dave. I will check the AA and hopefully it’s okay. I will keg and Bottle it this wkd and see what it tastes like.
@@leehaslam7231 If it does turn out that the AA is way too high then I would suggest blending the beer with something that lacks bitterness. This is best done small scale first then upscale.
What's you FG, and what yeast did you use? When you are brewing NEIP you need to be careful which yeast strain you are using, otherwise you might end up with very dry beer lacking that juiciness and sweetness typical for NEIPA, to balance it out.
i can adjust the hops amount and balance the BU:GU up till the point of 0 min hop addition. how do i know im not over killing the hops addition during dry hopping? how do i know what amount is 'enough is enough'?
Good question Chris. Dry hopping amounts do not fall the same way. Anything from 4-10g is pretty acceptable per litre. Some venture as far as 15g but this to my mind is very extreme.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I am still in the region of SMASH and trying to determine each hops' smell, over all bitterness that I like, the mouthfeel that I want, before mixing in different hops in a brew. looks like dry hopping will be way back at the schedule. plus, dry hopping come with a high cost, in the place I am in. Thanks david.
Great Chris, this is an awesome route to take.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew i thought so too. just that it is taking too long plus SMASH very often has very mono flavour and lack layer. plus some of those low AA will be consumed alot to get the target IBU. perhaps the only fun now is to add flavours into bottles to see how it will cope
It is a great way to learn though :)
Hi David, is the micro pipework really necessary for say a 12L batch or could i just use the regular pipework? Or at least what is the minimum batch size the regular pipework can handle?
I would say it could work if there is enough malt but for the sake of the small price of the small pipework I would just get it. It can be mixed with the standard pipework also to cover all sorts of situations.
Another great video David. Where do you source your Kveik, everywhere seems to be out of stock whenever I look.
+Daft Cat Brewing I wouldn't buy the commercial liquid varieties, they aren't the real thing sadly. Join the "kveik" facebook group and you can buy the real stuff there :)
Thanks. Request sent
Hello David! Thank you for yours advices how to use GF in the good way. I will make 20l batch of this beer. I can also boil only for 30 minutes? Or i need to double boiling time? And also it will be good to add lactobacterius to this recipe? Will it works? Maybe it will be better to increase mash in temperature to 69 celcius degrees to have more sweetness flavors?
Hi Hubert. No problem, glad you found it useful :) Yes boil time is the same for any volume. Lacto is very sensitive to alpha acids , so hoppy styles like this really are not going to work. What will work is to kettle sour it. I show how to do this in this video:- czcams.com/video/KysIMLdUATQ/video.html
@@DavidHeathHomebrew last time when i used probiotics it worked well. Maybe can I change your receipe and use less grams of hops at first minutes of boiling to decrease alpha acids in my beer? Using hops at whirpool/flameout should help?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew or do you have any idea how to make good Sour IPA using lacto from probiotics? Did u try it? How to add hops, in which part of boiling time?
Thanks David, I am about to give this a go. But notice this recipe differs from your recipe on the GR App which is for a 25L batch. Which of these two recipes is the most recent?
Ignore the GF App version, its inaccuracy messes with recipes sadly.
So mine started at 1.070 and ended up at 1.006 after 10 days. Should I have racked off the yeast when it reached your FG?
+Lewis Hume No no always let your yeast do its thing :)
Hi all, great to get some help. I’m unable to get ahtanum hops for this brew. Thinking of replacing it with galaxy?
Hi James, Cascade is more close but Galaxy will also give a nice result I should think :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks, David. Love the videos and the help they provide. As you can tell I'm new to homebrewing. Do you reckon that I need to increase the amount of Cascade hops to provide the same flavour?
Great to hear :) Use the alpha acid % as your guide. In each of my recipes I provide an IBU score for each addition. It is important to match that with your hops as the AA% will vary. I have a guide here that explains this in full using Brewfather:- czcams.com/video/lYA_UzDkW9o/video.html
What is the right time after you have bottled the beers to start tasting? Normally I wait for two weeks. Added some carbonation blocks in the bottles.
Hi, that really depends on the style. Some styles need much more time than others. Here is a guide that pinpoints the ones that are fast:- czcams.com/video/xkCfEqDcfFA/video.html
Styles that are the slowest will be high alcohol not hoppy styles. Hope this helps :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks again David. Keep up the good work! You're videos are appreciated.
Many thanks, will do :)
Hi David, I am attempting this beer using the Liberty Jack yeast, what temperature should I ferment at? (I have the conical fermenter), Many thanks, Stuart.
+stuart webb I would start at 18 deg c for a week then add 1 deg per day until you hit 21 deg c. Stay at 21 till you get consistant gravity for three days.
Hello David. Nice video. How come you want to filter with irish moss? Stylewise i prefer this kind of IPAs to be unfiltered.
Have you also tried to whirlpool below 80 degress? You will have unwanted IBUs if its over .
This is just my preferens - happy to hear your take on it :)
Cheers
+Andreas Petersson Irish moss is not a filter it is used to clear the beer. Its a matter of just how the beer looks, personal taste really :) Whirlpool hops below 80. If I am adding whirlpool hops that I really want to shine then I use a hop tea method instead. Its alot less fuss and gives a better result. See my video on this :)
David Heath Yeah Its a clearing agent. Potato potato almost :) I would disagree that looks is a matter of taste. The looks on neipas should be hazy and not clear. But since neipa is not a style yet i guess we all can have our take on the style :) cheers
+Andreas Petersson I am a firm believer in people brewing beer to their own taste. If you want a clear wheat beer then that's your choice , for example. The only time a detail like that will really matter is when you enter a competition.
can i scale to 5gal?
Yes 🍻🍻🍻
Hey David, what temperature did you dry hop with the Kveik?
Hi Lia, at first using the kveik temperature until fermentation is over. I start the dry hop close to the end of fermentation so this is usually a day. Then I reduce the temps to 18 deg c for the rest of the dry hop period.
Another great video David. May I ask what temp should I keep the M36 yeast vs the kvec yeast you used during fermentation? Thanks
+coolkidirish I would suggest 18 deg c in the first week then add 1 deg c a day until at 21 deg c till finish. You can go up to 23 with this yeast but ive never had to.
David Heath superb, thanks a million
No problem :)
+coolkidirish Glad you enjoyed it :)
Hi David what are the mash in & out times..
Hi, Mash in is 60 mins and mash out is 10 mins. These seldom change :)
Hi David, does doubling the batch size impact the boil time or does it not really matter?
+Ej van de beek No, they are unrelated.
Hi David. Did you use micropipework for this batsch size?
Yes I did but you could size it to 15L plus and use the regular pipework.
Thanks David!!!
David what was your est ABV on this magnificent brew? Thanks for the vid. Cheers!
+Bruce Frieske It will vary depending on the yeast you use. Around the 7% is a fair guide.
Thank you
+Bruce Frieske My pleasure :)
I priced one and it was 1200.00 who has that kind of money !??????? How about a grainfather for us poor people ???
+TheDave570 1200 of what currency? I will agree that the GF comes at a price but then its reasonable for what you get.
What yeast were you using? It sounded like you said "fake", I tried replaying but wasn't able to pick it up.
+Mr M Its "Kveik" , which is Norwegian farmhouse yeast. Ive made a series of videos on this magic yeast. You can use any yeast that will suit the style. :)
Did you say you used fake yeast?
Haha no :) Kveik yeast. In short it ferments in 1-3 days and the resulting beer us ready to drink very quickly with a great taste. Here is more information:- czcams.com/play/PLeY07JqsrXM_gv11NeUHLX32M1YxXVFnn.html
Just found your site and love the videos and subbed. We just started doing the whole CZcams brewing vids, so check us out if you get a chance. We just brewed three different juicy (New England) IPA's and should have that brew-day footage out in the next 2 weeks. Cheers!
+2TEN90 Brewing Thats great to hear on all accounts:) I will check out your channel:)