I will clear up a few things for you. The PCM is the Powertrain Control Module. This IS the engine controller. The immobiluser module on this model of Mondeo is attached to the steering column, and incorporates the antenna for the key. This car is not a difficult fix! It's only been made difficult by "specialists" who really aren't.
That corroded chip looks like an eeprom that may be what marries the pcm to the rest of the car. It may of been swapped from the old unit to the new one and the conformal coating not put back over it. I would give it a good clean with isopropyl and try it again as that chip may need transplanting into the next donor pcm if it's not dead. Even if the legs have snapped off it can probably be saved by grinding back the the ic package. Without it you maybe in for a world of hurt getting all the necessary modules programmed and keeping the mileage if you need to get a full set
Another great video Martin and Garry love the videos tackling parts other people wouldn’t trying to fine the root cause of the problem even look at the semantics diagram is a head scratcher I have every faith on you both to get this sorted
Brilliant video. When you checked the wires with the pin it looked like your negative on the multimeter was touching the paint work it might not of had a good metal contact. Carnt wait to see the conclusion.
for ecu get some IPA and clean the board and then probably best to use some liquid flux and just reflow that solder , also thought car ECUs normally have a silicon seal between the lids
Needs some contact cleaner on that ecu plug connector and compressed air to clean out the moisture before refitting the new ecu. The new ecu will need to be programmed to be able to talk to the other modules.
@projectman.Pcm is the ECU. Ford just choose to call it a Pcm. The box on the bottom of the Ecu, is the Gem module. Which operates central locking,windows, mirrors,alarm etc. There is no seperate immobiliser unit. It's just the pats reciever ring around the ignition barrel, that's it. So the 3 parts you need are ecu, pats reciever ring and the key that contains the transponder, so u can remove that and put it in your original key. All 3 need to come from the same vehicle, as they are coded together and need to be from a vehicle with the same engine code as yours.
@@ProjectMan no problem mate. Glad to see u got the ecu out without any hassle. Once u know where it's located and that u need to remove the plug in the bulkhead 1st, that's half the battle. I kind of guessed that the metal bracket would've been butchered by whoever had been in there b4. I guess it did u a favour in this instance, but some people are so hamfisted. Why cut through the bracket instead of just drilling the rivets out.🤷♂️
@@ProjectMan another thing i just thought of regarding water getting into the ecu, is to check the drain holes in the bulkhead. There is one in each corner and 2 rubber tubes in the centre. Obviously water is suppossed to run throught the bulkhead and out to the road, but if the drains are blocked water will sit in that corner and build up around the electrical multi plug. Also when u refit the plug, just put a very small amount of silicone sealer around the edge of the blue socket on the ecu. A very small amount as obviously you don't want it going into the curcuit holes. That should stop the same problem occurring in the future.
Hi Gary and Martin!! I have seen this before with several cars and especially fords. I have as you probably know I have a 54 plate mondeo and I use the Forscan on that. My first port of call would be to check that the VIN numbers nare all programmed correctly into the PCM. Never take it for granted that fords did it correctly. A VIN mismatch can cause the issue you have. Using the forscan, are you getting the corect signal from the ignition etc to say that the key, PCM are talking to each other? The fact that the Engine runs and then cuts off to me would suggest that they are talking. I think looking at this in more detail, that the PCM internally has an EEPROM issue. Could someone have put the battery leads on the wrong way and fried the PCM? I would expect to see a P062F code if the EEPROM was damaged....but it still could be!! The fact that there is no 12V supply then I would be leaning towards a PCM issue. Also the car starting and cutting out straight away dismisses PATS, The tell tale too is that the PCM isn't allowing the 10 Minute time to give you an INcode and shutting it down which is all done at the PCM. i would send the ECU off to ECU Testing or ACTronics to get it checked out. Hope this helps
As long as they dont lose it as they have with 2 I sent to them for over 3 weeks , causing grief to me from my customers, then saying they couldn't test it , and it was a very common vehicle on both occasions
I have heard that the ring around the lock and module must match up . Not sure injectors have to be linked up with same module to work , deffo on the Diesel engine ones
Passenger side in the footwell kickplate near to the glove box or on Passenger side where the bolts are for the door hinge pull the plastic trim and you might find bcu or possibly the pat unit
Disastrous place to put the ECU,, same on the X-type, under the window, any clogging of the drainage from the window directs the water in on top of it , Ive a cloth cover over mine always feels wet
Gaza Love the video of u and your dad I was close with my late father we did cars together went scrap yard after car parts I bought cars from auctions put m.o t on sold them on loved it this problem your doing is very interesting you need to do and your dad should do to longer videos We love them mate
Nice video. Love the content. I thought disconnecting the battery, surely you won't get any readings on the multi meter? Unless the battery was reconnected but wasn't shown.
That corrosion will due to damp not sure what the bit is that controls but won't be working like that you can gently clean it up with acetone on a cotton bud see if it clears most of the time it doesn't it's a replacement ECU key reader you don't need the clocks but might throw up codes because it's a different set to what it's all paired to and the fuel pump is programmed to the ECU
Before you spend money on a new ECU, it might be worth sending it off to ECU Testing. Might be cheaper for them to repair it before you get involved with replacing it. Also, was the multimeter definitely grounded when you tested? It was hard to tell under a hand but I know they can be picky if they don’t have a good ground. Good video, nice to see logical progression through an issue.
What you have there is corrosion what you need is a tooth brush and some electrical cleaning fluid give it a good scrubbing all over and hope the soldering and pads are still ok (good luck)
Martin that's definitely Corrosion on that chip I would possibly get that ECU tested just to find out and it would be interesting but I think I would change it all because you don't know what's happened to it for £50 I would for a kit at least you would know then 👍
That component looked like it maybe related to power, possibly not, but it maybe worth using some isopropynol alcohol and a toothbrush to clean it up, then resoldering it, same with the corner of the (possible) A.S.I.C. you showed us. Wouldn't take very long to try it, although if damp has got into it and it is power related it maybe blown up.
I always thought the main ECU was under the scuttle on windscreen , maybe I'm thinking of the mk 1 . Good vid as usual no doubt you will get to the bottom of it. 🙂👍
Another thing worth noting is how you are testing wiring etc. front probing of terminals in my opinion is a no no. Even back probing can be deceptive because of the angle that the probe is going in at. In the real world with DIY diagnosis if you haven't got a wire piercing prob to connect to a baana jack which in turn connects to osciloscope of volt metre, then you do what you can and have to hand. you should always test ecu's etc with the ECU's connected to there connectors. This way you are load testing the circuits. Martin will understand this with his electrics background. Always try to replicate the checking how the issue is ncreated. one you unplug a component, you have changed the scenario where the problem exists. You can have a component bringing the ground, power or signal circuit down and you wouldn't know this with unplugging the component. Good luck guys with the diagnosis and always here if you need help. Kind regards James
Might be worth to try cleaning the board with a soft toothbrush and switch / contact cleaner see if that makes a difference its possible the corrosion is bridging the terminals
The videos would still be coming out at 7:15 if it was a premier or not so the wait is the same the point is the majority of subscribers enjoy the interaction in the chat box 👍🏻
There is a lot of us fan's who certainly disagree with your view on Premiers as wee enjoy them and It's a chance for us to get Involved with each other and with the main man Himself 💪🏻💪🏻
I will clear up a few things for you. The PCM is the Powertrain Control Module. This IS the engine controller. The immobiluser module on this model of Mondeo is attached to the steering column, and incorporates the antenna for the key. This car is not a difficult fix! It's only been made difficult by "specialists" who really aren't.
Not a difficult fix with a new ecu needed and mystery water ingress needing to be addressed?
Just pop another Ecu on it lads keys and transponder bish bosh done she will be a runner. Nice one Lads good to see you working together. 👍
Cheers Ali 👍🏻👍🏻
Great to see a father and son team together learning as your going along also helping others.
Cheers bud 👍🏻
That corroded chip looks like an eeprom that may be what marries the pcm to the rest of the car. It may of been swapped from the old unit to the new one and the conformal coating not put back over it. I would give it a good clean with isopropyl and try it again as that chip may need transplanting into the next donor pcm if it's not dead. Even if the legs have snapped off it can probably be saved by grinding back the the ic package. Without it you maybe in for a world of hurt getting all the necessary modules programmed and keeping the mileage if you need to get a full set
Ecu kit ordered 👍🏻
Another great video Martin and Garry love the videos tackling parts other people wouldn’t trying to fine the root cause of the problem even look at the semantics diagram is a head scratcher I have every faith on you both to get this sorted
Cheers William 👍🏻
Brilliant video. When you checked the wires with the pin it looked like your negative on the multimeter was touching the paint work it might not of had a good metal contact. Carnt wait to see the conclusion.
Totally agree. Also the battery was disconnected at the start of the vid. Won't get any voltage readings..
Battery was reconnected.
Thank you Martin and Gary I always love watching your car repairs I am watching from South Africa
for ecu get some IPA and clean the board and then probably best to use some liquid flux and just reflow that solder , also thought car ECUs normally have a silicon seal between the lids
The circuit board looks to be coated in resin making any re-solder work difficult.
Needs some contact cleaner on that ecu plug connector and compressed air to clean out the moisture before refitting the new ecu. The new ecu will need to be programmed to be able to talk to the other modules.
you both will get to the problem and keep the great videos rolling
Cheers bud
On c max the ecu sits in the wheel arch!
& i think the galaxy sits under a headlight… insane
Not forgetting you will need to have the injectors coded into your pcm if you do change that.
It's petrol
@projectman.Pcm is the ECU. Ford just choose to call it a Pcm. The box on the bottom of the Ecu, is the Gem module. Which operates central locking,windows, mirrors,alarm etc. There is no seperate immobiliser unit. It's just the pats reciever ring around the ignition barrel, that's it. So the 3 parts you need are ecu, pats reciever ring and the key that contains the transponder, so u can remove that and put it in your original key. All 3 need to come from the same vehicle, as they are coded together and need to be from a vehicle with the same engine code as yours.
Thanks for clearing up the ecu/pcm mate 👍🏻👍🏻
@@ProjectMan no problem mate. Glad to see u got the ecu out without any hassle. Once u know where it's located and that u need to remove the plug in the bulkhead 1st, that's half the battle. I kind of guessed that the metal bracket would've been butchered by whoever had been in there b4. I guess it did u a favour in this instance, but some people are so hamfisted. Why cut through the bracket instead of just drilling the rivets out.🤷♂️
@@ProjectMan another thing i just thought of regarding water getting into the ecu, is to check the drain holes in the bulkhead. There is one in each corner and 2 rubber tubes in the centre. Obviously water is suppossed to run throught the bulkhead and out to the road, but if the drains are blocked water will sit in that corner and build up around the electrical multi plug. Also when u refit the plug, just put a very small amount of silicone sealer around the edge of the blue socket on the ecu. A very small amount as obviously you don't want it going into the curcuit holes. That should stop the same problem occurring in the future.
Yes I need to check the drain 👍🏻
@@ProjectMan a fair bet it will be blocked mate.
Hi Gary and Martin!! I have seen this before with several cars and especially fords. I have as you probably know I have a 54 plate mondeo and I use the Forscan on that. My first port of call would be to check that the VIN numbers nare all programmed correctly into the PCM. Never take it for granted that fords did it correctly. A VIN mismatch can cause the issue you have. Using the forscan, are you getting the corect signal from the ignition etc to say that the key, PCM are talking to each other? The fact that the Engine runs and then cuts off to me would suggest that they are talking.
I think looking at this in more detail, that the PCM internally has an EEPROM issue. Could someone have put the battery leads on the wrong way and fried the PCM? I would expect to see a P062F code if the EEPROM was damaged....but it still could be!! The fact that there is no 12V supply then I would be leaning towards a PCM issue. Also the car starting and cutting out straight away dismisses PATS,
The tell tale too is that the PCM isn't allowing the 10 Minute time to give you an INcode and shutting it down which is all done at the PCM.
i would send the ECU off to ECU Testing or ACTronics to get it checked out.
Hope this helps
Cheers bud will look into that 👍🏻
As long as they dont lose it as they have with 2 I sent to them for over 3 weeks , causing grief to me from my customers, then saying they couldn't test it , and it was a very common vehicle on both occasions
@@mikeberry304 Personally never had problems with either company but I have to agree that there are going to be some instances where this will happen.
I have heard that the ring around the lock and module must match up . Not sure injectors have to be linked up with same module to work , deffo on the Diesel engine ones
Passenger side in the footwell kickplate near to the glove box or on Passenger side where the bolts are for the door hinge pull the plastic trim and you might find bcu or possibly the pat unit
Cheers bud 👍🏻
Make sure u get the key chip as well mate
Disastrous place to put the ECU,, same on the X-type, under the window, any clogging of the drainage from the window directs the water in on top of it , Ive a cloth cover over mine always feels wet
Gaza
Love the video of u and your dad I was close with my late father we did cars together went scrap yard after car parts I bought cars from auctions put m.o t on sold them on loved it this problem your doing is very interesting you need to do and your dad should do to longer videos
We love them mate
Cheers Phil just waiting on another ecu 👍🏻
Another great video ladz 👍🏼
Nice video. Love the content. I thought disconnecting the battery, surely you won't get any readings on the multi meter? Unless the battery was reconnected but wasn't shown.
It was reconnected 👍🏻
That corrosion will due to damp not sure what the bit is that controls but won't be working like that you can gently clean it up with acetone on a cotton bud see if it clears most of the time it doesn't it's a replacement ECU key reader you don't need the clocks but might throw up codes because it's a different set to what it's all paired to and the fuel pump is programmed to the ECU
Ecu ordered thanks 👍🏻
The fuel pump is not programmed to the PCM on this car. The computer only activates the fuel pump relay for the pump to run.
Great video again guys love the content keep them coming
Cheers bud 👌👌
Before you spend money on a new ECU, it might be worth sending it off to ECU Testing. Might be cheaper for them to repair it before you get involved with replacing it.
Also, was the multimeter definitely grounded when you tested? It was hard to tell under a hand but I know they can be picky if they don’t have a good ground. Good video, nice to see logical progression through an issue.
Cheers bud but got another ecu kit for a fair price 👍🏻
What you have there is corrosion what you need is a tooth brush and some electrical cleaning fluid give it a good scrubbing all over and hope the soldering and pads are still ok (good luck)
Martin that's definitely Corrosion on that chip I would possibly get that ECU tested just to find out and it would be interesting but I think I would change it all because you don't know what's happened to it for £50 I would for a kit at least you would know then 👍
Hopefully in the next video you and Martin will get that mondeo running
That component looked like it maybe related to power, possibly not, but it maybe worth using some isopropynol alcohol and a toothbrush to clean it up, then resoldering it, same with the corner of the (possible) A.S.I.C. you showed us. Wouldn't take very long to try it, although if damp has got into it and it is power related it maybe blown up.
Stick with it guys & I'm sure you will get it running.
Buy a broken ECU, clean up that board, remove the component, replace from the the other unit. Test.
I know its a bit off topic but would you know if a faulty petrol pump 02 mk3 mondeo would cause a fault to be stored Thanks
Quite possibly
You don’t need to change the reader coil, it is not part of the immobiliser.
keep up the good work #headofyoutube #moregoodcontent #letthehatershate
Where did you get the diagrams for the ECU? I'm stuck working on my Mondeo.
Internet just kept searching.
I always thought the main ECU was under the scuttle on windscreen , maybe I'm thinking of the mk 1 . Good vid as usual no doubt you will get to the bottom of it. 🙂👍
Cheers bud 👍🏻👍🏻
Yet another good video buddy
Worth a go clean board with ipa and soft brush, or maybe ultrasonic clean it, with ipa and water mix in tank ! You got nothing to looose
Another thing worth noting is how you are testing wiring etc. front probing of terminals in my opinion is a no no. Even back probing can be deceptive because of the angle that the probe is going in at. In the real world with DIY diagnosis if you haven't got a wire piercing prob to connect to a baana jack which in turn connects to osciloscope of volt metre, then you do what you can and have to hand. you should always test ecu's etc with the ECU's connected to there connectors. This way you are load testing the circuits. Martin will understand this with his electrics background. Always try to replicate the checking how the issue is ncreated. one you unplug a component, you have changed the scenario where the problem exists. You can have a component bringing the ground, power or signal circuit down and you wouldn't know this with unplugging the component.
Good luck guys with the diagnosis and always here if you need help.
Kind regards
James
Cheers James 👍🏻
Could be that its been jump started & had a power surge & blew the ecu ???
Ain’t you 2 sorted this out yet, you are dragging out these videos 😂 Good video 🙂👍
Behave I heard your still looking for £500 behind your shed 😂👍🏻
@@ProjectMan I think I’ve found it 😉
@@menditman2004 😂👍🏻
It looks knackered to me, water ingress..
Fantastic guys looks to me like you've found the problem fingers crossed 👍👍👍👍
Hopefully 👍🏻
Great video ecu looks a bit crusty on the board I hate these newer cars with all the electrics lol
There a pain in the arse ash 😂
Gary , Martin butler have message me to ask you can he have a pay rise
😂
Might be worth to try cleaning the board with a soft toothbrush and switch / contact cleaner see if that makes a difference its possible the corrosion is bridging the terminals
Ecu ordered Barry 👍🏻
I does yes that's not anew one
Is it possible to change the fuel map?
Think you've cracked it. that corrosion shouldn't be on the PCB.
Looks to me there's water leaking down where the ECU sits breaking the old ECU and then breaking the new one
It certainly looks suspect
Sorry it is part of the immobiliser but not coded.
Just get the imbolzier deleted off the ecu
Too bad you need a degree in electrical engineering to work on modern autos! I miss my 1955 Chevy!
Can't beat the older cars / bikes Ken 👍🏻
Why do u keep doing premieres,we just have to wait longer to see the video what's the point?
The videos would still be coming out at 7:15 if it was a premier or not so the wait is the same the point is the majority of subscribers enjoy the interaction in the chat box 👍🏻
@@ProjectMan hi Gary how are you doing
Good thanks George 👍🏻
There is a lot of us fan's who certainly disagree with your view on Premiers as wee enjoy them and It's a chance for us to get Involved with each other and with the main man Himself 💪🏻💪🏻
These mondeo videos are great, can't wait to see the video of the end fix.