This video is about 7.3L Injector Cup Installation. Tool Rental: bitterrootdies... Parts: bitterrootdies... Music Composed by: Richard Wagner Title: Ride of the Valkyries
Awesome Vid, a cool trick to keep those bristles in there and aligned is get a piece of copper pipe and cut it so only 1/4 inch of the bristles stick of out the bottom and tape it to the bit on the top of the copper tube, you'll be able to put more force on it for cleaning and not loose those brass flingers
I bought the cheap tools, will likely modify them to be the screw type vs the hammer type, unless I find it's safe to use an air chisel hammer to tap them home.
My biggest concern doing this is bumping the cup against the bore as I'm sliding it in. This might create a gap where the loctite is supposed to be on the cup. It just might be my OCD kicking in.
I may be incorrect about this but the instructions on Riff Raffs site state to have the arrow pointing towards the valve springs. Does it make a difference or did you make any corrections to the final seating depth. Thank you
Because the bolt holes are symmetric to the centerline of the bore, I don’t think it makes a difference. The side with the arrow is rounded on the top, giving additional clearance. The truck has been running great since the repair, so there doesn’t appear to have been any issues.
@@superiorautomotive143 I know this was two years ago, lol but when you know the cup has bottomed out is that it "dead stops" meaning you won't be able to turn your wrench or socket anymore. After that it's recommended to torque each cup down to 35 foot pounds but most folks don't even do that. 👍
There is always the risk of bristles flying off. Material can fly off scotch bright pads too. If something does fly off, it would likely fly into a coolant passage. Everything seemed to go well for me.
Hi i have engine 7.3 1996. but i have a problem. Frecuently be mix oil with diesel and change new orings and works again by some time. do you think that my cup is broken or need replace?
If a cup is broken, you would mix coolant in the oil. To mix oil into the fuel, it’s going to be a bad oring. I have another video showing how to rebuild the injectors and replace all the orings.
@@nutsandbolts432 i lubricated them and they only lasted a few months and again they have been damaged. why do you think it could happen? as a result of the damage it no longer ignites. last time changing the injector orings solved the problem but again it has the failure.
@@george2019 when I had previously replaced mine, you could purchase the 5 piece external orings from ford for $11 a set. Also remember there are 3 internal orings too. It could be a problem if the orings you are using are aftermarket. However, a no start condition is unlikely going to be the result of bad orings. If you have a way to monitor it, see what your high pressure oil is at while cranking. If you don’t have a way, and want to try a simple fix, put a cam sensor in it. They are notorious for going bad and will cause a no start.
@@nutsandbolts432 yes. what happens is that when the orings are damaged the oil goes to the diesel and the pressure is lost of oil, it starts very little time and then the oil runs out and shuts down. changing the orings again it works again but the orings are damaged as if they were eating away. also when I install the injectors with the new orings I feel that they do not fit very tightly and they fit easily.
@@george2019 installing that pink oring is a bear. Make sure they are in the right order. Also, if the copper compression washer on the nozzle is bad, damaged or missing, combustion gases will blow up in the injector bore and burn orings up very quickly.
The majority of it will end up on top of the piston or in a coolant passage. The debris can be measured in thousandths of an inch, and all the ports in the head are at least a 1/4”, so no problem there. If by some unlucky miracle debris got stuck in either the oil or fuel ports (which are both slightly facing downward), they would likely pass through the injector and end up in the oil pan or fuel tank (if it were the oil passage or fuel passage respectfully). I’m loaded with bad luck, and you would have to have worse luck than me to do injector damage. But absolute worse case scenario, you know something got into one of them and you can’t fish it out, there are plug bolts on each end of the head for fuel and oil that you could remove and flush that rail. You would have to replace the o-rings on those plugs and cranking it would take forever, but it’s possible.
From experience I would recommend having your injector ready to go and install it immediately after cup install and torque it to specs
That’s a good tip.
Awesome Vid, a cool trick to keep those bristles in there and aligned is get a piece of copper pipe and cut it so only 1/4 inch of the bristles stick of out the bottom and tape it to the bit on the top of the copper tube, you'll be able to put more force on it for cleaning and not loose those brass flingers
Great tip. Thanks.
This guy is hilarious, good video!
Thanks for watching.
Good video,getting ready to do this same job on my 7.3
Great vid. Thanks!
Good video
I bought the cheap tools, will likely modify them to be the screw type vs the hammer type, unless I find it's safe to use an air chisel hammer to tap them home.
I'd be afraid that an air hammer might distort the cups while driving them in. But, it would make it super quick.
At 1:34 that's what she said haha haha great video
My biggest concern doing this is bumping the cup against the bore as I'm sliding it in. This might create a gap where the loctite is supposed to be on the cup. It just might be my OCD kicking in.
It’s a press fit. The sealant is just an extra precaution.
@@nutsandbolts432 Much appreciated. That reduces a lot of stress.
I may be incorrect about this but the instructions on Riff Raffs site state to have the arrow pointing towards the valve springs. Does it make a difference or did you make any corrections to the final seating depth. Thank you
Because the bolt holes are symmetric to the centerline of the bore, I don’t think it makes a difference. The side with the arrow is rounded on the top, giving additional clearance. The truck has been running great since the repair, so there doesn’t appear to have been any issues.
Can you describe how you know the cup has fully seated?.
@@superiorautomotive143
I know this was two years ago, lol but when you know the cup has bottomed out is that it "dead stops" meaning you won't be able to turn your wrench or socket anymore. After that it's recommended to torque each cup down to 35 foot pounds but most folks don't even do that. 👍
Id use scotch bright, not a wire brush. This gives me anxiety
There is always the risk of bristles flying off. Material can fly off scotch bright pads too. If something does fly off, it would likely fly into a coolant passage. Everything seemed to go well for me.
Very nice video never seen that tool very good and safe where did you get the tool ?
There is a link in the description to Bitterroot Diesel.
I noticed your hpop reservoir is leaking in the front
😳 High performance belt lubrication.
Hi i have engine 7.3 1996. but i have a problem. Frecuently be mix oil with diesel and change new orings and works again by some time. do you think that my cup is broken or need replace?
If a cup is broken, you would mix coolant in the oil. To mix oil into the fuel, it’s going to be a bad oring. I have another video showing how to rebuild the injectors and replace all the orings.
@@nutsandbolts432 i lubricated them and they only lasted a few months and again they have been damaged. why do you think it could happen? as a result of the damage it no longer ignites. last time changing the injector orings solved the problem but again it has the failure.
@@george2019 when I had previously replaced mine, you could purchase the 5 piece external orings from ford for $11 a set. Also remember there are 3 internal orings too. It could be a problem if the orings you are using are aftermarket. However, a no start condition is unlikely going to be the result of bad orings. If you have a way to monitor it, see what your high pressure oil is at while cranking. If you don’t have a way, and want to try a simple fix, put a cam sensor in it. They are notorious for going bad and will cause a no start.
@@nutsandbolts432 yes. what happens is that when the orings are damaged the oil goes to the diesel and the pressure is lost of oil, it starts very little time and then the oil runs out and shuts down. changing the orings again it works again but the orings are damaged as if they were eating away. also when I install the injectors with the new orings I feel that they do not fit very tightly and they fit easily.
@@george2019 installing that pink oring is a bear. Make sure they are in the right order. Also, if the copper compression washer on the nozzle is bad, damaged or missing, combustion gases will blow up in the injector bore and burn orings up very quickly.
just saying arrow twords springs
Won't trash from the brush get back in the ports ready to plug the injector ports?
The majority of it will end up on top of the piston or in a coolant passage. The debris can be measured in thousandths of an inch, and all the ports in the head are at least a 1/4”, so no problem there. If by some unlucky miracle debris got stuck in either the oil or fuel ports (which are both slightly facing downward), they would likely pass through the injector and end up in the oil pan or fuel tank (if it were the oil passage or fuel passage respectfully). I’m loaded with bad luck, and you would have to have worse luck than me to do injector damage. But absolute worse case scenario, you know something got into one of them and you can’t fish it out, there are plug bolts on each end of the head for fuel and oil that you could remove and flush that rail. You would have to replace the o-rings on those plugs and cranking it would take forever, but it’s possible.
Lol.. doopity doop
Where did you rent the tool from?
www.bitterrootdiesel.com
@@nutsandbolts432 thank you