Savage Rifle Build, Bolt Work (disassemble and assemble) (pt 7)
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- čas přidán 20. 04. 2017
- Savage Rifle Build, Bolt Work plus how to disassemble and reassemble the savage bolt assembly. This is a rather simple process to do on the savage model 12 rifle, its simple on all savage bolts to be honest.
These come packed with to much grease and oil in my opinion. Removing this and adding a small amount of Rem Oil and Tetra Gun will allow this bolt assembly function smoother and also reduce issue in extreme cold weather conditions.
#Savage
#243AI
#SWFA
#Riflebuild
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Wheeler Gunsmith Screwdriver Set.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Gunsmith Bench Block.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
Dead Blow Hammer.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
TEKTON Gunsmith Punch Set.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
Gunsmith File Set.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
Wheeler Scope Mounting Kit Combo.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Wheeler Reticle Scope Level.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Wheeler Barrel Vise.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Wheeler Universal Barrel Clamp.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Rosin Grip for Barrel Removal.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Hook and Pick Set.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
Sight Adjusting Tool, Universal.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Trigger Pull Scale.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Wheeler Action Wrench.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Armors Wrench.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Savage Barrel Nut Wrench.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Brother, thank you so much! Went to the range today and discovered firing pin was not hitting primer. Came home to inspect and your video was priceless to know who to disassemble. Cleaned and putting all back together for round two to see if I need to purchase replacements.
Same problem. Could you solve it?
Great video. It helps a lot . On a side note, every time I see these modern engineering solutions for bolt disassembly my head is spinning. Paul Mauser perfected the bolt design more than 100 years ago and you take it down in 30 seconds without any tools. And these days no matter which brand you get you need a power tool, set of screwdrivers ,a pick, a hammer or the instruction to take it to gunsmith if you need bolt disassembled. Talking about reinventing the wheel... Sorry, got sidetracked lol
Thanks for the video I after watching twice successfully stripped and cleaned my savage bolt and working perfectly
Thanks! This helped me disassemble, clean & reassemble my bolt incredibly easy. Excellent instructional video!
My hands don't work entirely well, so the allen key option didn't work for me as shown. What I found did work though, was to start off in the relaxed position, get a couple turns going on the big bolt on the end, then to do the allen key thing where it only had to push a tiny bit. MUCH easier. Then crank down on the end bolt. MUCH easier.
I also found that the straw for the oil (or WD-40 or other thin one like it) worked great to get the pin holes lined up at every bit where it was needed. Easier than fiddling & shaking into position.
:)
Nice video, just ran through all of this you made it simple. Well done.
Just added a fluted bolt sleeve (bolt body) from Sharp Shooter Supply to my Savage FV 12 308 build. Cabela's has (07-27-20) the 308 version on sale for $289.A steal! No impact handy so I used a 1/4 hex/allen key. Wrapped the bolt in a towel and gave the allen key one good rap with a heavy hammer and the bolt cap broke loose and came right out. Thanks for the video. It walked me right through the takedown and reassembly. Removed a lot of grit and grime from the bolt and lubed per your instructions.
Thanks for the video! Well done solid information 👍🏻
Great detailed video. Just a note. The bolt collar can be removed and put back in place when the bolt is fully assembled.
Great video, very informative. Thank you!
Excellent video, thanks man!
You know? The first video of yours I watched I thought “this guy is clueless.” But, I have watched many of your videos since and my first impression was definitely wrong. Thanks for the videos on Savages. Especially the .243AI build.
Thanks for the great video, helped me a lot!
Great video !! Very clear instructions. Saved me from having to go to the gunsmith. Thanks!
thanks this video did me a solid. Savage Model 200 in .223 worked the same way. Was getting light strikes on milsurp ammo so needed to get bolt apart to see whats going on inside. Ill try out the tetra
Just bought a pre accutrigger model 111 in 30-06, and the bolt & trigger both need some polishing. I used a 18" cheater bar which made getting that stubborn bolt screw off. I also wrapped my bolt thouroughly with shop towels, and clamped it only as firmly as I needed to.
Awesome video, wish I could give more than one thumbs up.
Yes sir I agree! That keeper bolt is a bear! I wound up holding a round punch in a cloth and wrapping on the face of it a few times. I wish I would have thought of the impact driver. Good stuff!
Great info. Thank you
Thanks bud just picked up a Savage 110 300WM, this helped out a good amount
Thank you for your wonderful video now i know a little more once again thank you
Great instructions!!!
Rem-Oil will eventually harden and gum up in long term storage so I only use it as a penetrating oil to soak rusted stuff loose or spray on a brass brush to use like a solvent to cut crud out of the hollow bolt or a bore. Hoppe's gun oil is all I EVER use as a final coating or lubricant, especially for long term storage or just sitting in my gun cabinet from season to season. Many other lubes will dry out and gum up also like WD-40, Birchwood Casey Sheath, G96, etc. Hoppe's Gun Oil is light pure mineral oil and it will never harden or gum. It is also superior as a rust preventative to ALL of those other gun oils & lubes. It is pure oil with no additives. If you need something heavier for some special reason, use Hoppe's Gun Grease or Outers Gun Grease. Those are extremely long lasting too and will stay where you put them. Nice video on the disassembly, Thanks. I'm a Winchester man myself but Savage is ok I guess
Thank you very helpful vid.
Great Video.Ive been using the Glock Slide Guide Inplace of Tetra.They both work great. I've had issues with the Rem Oil /Teflon hardening up in cold weather and over time
Great video .....thank you
thanks for the info, very informative, boss just bought a .270 and he'll likely have me doing maintenance for him
Building new rifle with a Savage single action ( heavy) I noticed a few things I could do to improve cocking.i took the angle ramps on the action lugs and polished them.also took bolt head and stoned the part that cimbs the ramps and stoned them to change angle so it is easier to engage.also polished them.now I don't feel the bolt head engaging in the bottom of the ramps which is sharp.its so much smoother and it causes no damage to the action or accuracy..also made a spring loaded lapping jig which worked great in lapping in the bolt to 100 percent. In what I did was so minimal you would have to look hard to notice.made a lot of difference
Thank you for the excellent video. Is very descriptive and helpful. I just acquired a .308, heavy-barreled Savage that had NEVER been cleaned. I completely disassembled it, cleaned every part, and used the very same Remoil that you recommend. Good description on how to oil everything as well. I had a problem with the front action screw extending too far into the action preventing the bolt from turning into full battery. Why this design was ever allowed into production I will never know so. Seems like they would have made a bolt that can only go in so far and not into the action. Once figured out though,, all is back well. Great video. Keep up the great work.
Longer bolt goes in the back shorter one in the front
My 1997 110 .243 blind mag came from the factory with the spring washer between the baffle and the bolt face lug
I just stumbled across your channel and are absolutely amazing. Nicely done and you have really explained the savage action well. I have always been a fan, but that Remington 700 footprint is just so common.
Thanks for the video. Very helpful!
Also you sound just like Seth Rogan! Haha
I like to use the White or Blue "Shop Towels" you get from the Hardware or auto parts stores. They are very long free and last longer cleaning guns.
Thanks for the info, im converting a.308 to 6.5x47 I needed to know that, im a machinist a fixture is in need for the bolt nut, ill get to it!
Thank you man.... U saved me....
You are welcome!
Thanks
saved me again!! I thought it was my bolt, so I rebuilt it ....AGAIN! Turns out the bolt was fine, the Boyd's stock needs yet ANOTHER adjustment. I don't know why I ever thought there was anything wrong with my synthetic Savage stock. I'm no competitive shooter...
I really appreciate the video. Very helpful. I do have a question. My ejector pin doesn't work, hence why I looked this video. I noticed it's part of the bolt head. Can that be rebuilt or do I need to buy a new one?
Surprised that you didn't try a PTG bolt body or a bolt lift kit
Does the collar (looks like a C) on the bolt always stay loose, even slightly, after going through the motions of chambering a round?
What do you think of those bolt lift kits out there, that are suppose to make the bolt easier to operate? Thanks
I'd been watching the savage build with great interest. I recently purchased a savage 10vs 6.5 creed moor. I disassembled the bolt and cleaned it, polished the trigger, and want to bed the scope rings. The only problem I discovered is the scope diameter is 35 mm. I have not been able to locate a wheeler (or any other manufacturer) that has a bedding "bolt" for 35 mm. Any suggestions?
Thanks so much for your quality and educational videos.
Chris Dedyo Sinclair international has them.! They are about $60 I think
How do you take the back of the bolt that has a cocking indicator?
Sir is the work to the bolt needed if you have a savage model 10 ba Stealth because it's blue printed
Have you tried any other bolts or bolt body in the savages?
Without seeing your face, it’s like Seth Rogan does gunsmithing 😂.
Good stuff brother, thanks for the info as always.
I should post a poll about that, I can't tell you how many times people have left that same comment lol. Now if I just had his money!
Subbed your channel 👍 a few videos back. Watching the Savage build series. I'm not through it all, yet.
On a Savage do you adjust your head space by turning the barrel in n out of the receiver?
Ed Spencer yes, you’ll see how it’s done in the series. It’s rather simple on a savage style rifle
has a video of how to remove the barrel to the savage 93 magnum
Anyone know how to rest the fireing pin down once bolt is out bc my savage axis 22 250 every time the bolt comes out it’s engaged
Great vids! Can you tell me how the Rem oil compares to Ballistal in the salt water? Thanks!
Bait Ammo I don’t know how they compare, but Rem Oil does ok in the salt for short times. The Fluid Film spray is far superior in my opinion.
what do you mean by shelving when talking about the bolt "housing"?
While following your video, I removed the bolt and disassembled it. Then after cleaning, I was putting everything together, and I noticed I was missing the small spring (pigtail is what some call it). Is there a place to get one of those? The firing pin you showed is the old type; the new one uses two springs.
I've watched several videos on the savage bolt. Not one shows anything about the firing pin / spring assembly. If the nut on the end is removed for cleaning, how do you know how many turns to put it back on? Is there a measurement nut to nut?
Hey...i have a question. I own a model 10 pc. The one with the digicamo Stock. However i have one Problem with it. Sometimes it does not cock the firing pin after chambering a round. Why ist that ? And how can i fix it ?
Do I have to remove the Bolt Washer to check the headspace when re -charged ammunition
I have an axis 2 precision... I thought savage rifles needs the firing pin protrusion adjusted when reassembling...
So... thank you 4 ur expertise. Having stated that, I'd like you to understand that I'm a mechanic as much as a shooter., so leather clothe grips are much better for disassembly and reassembly and has a lower factor of transference of contaminants if you are attempting to dismantle a bolt as removed from its action. My experience as a total idiot uses a 40,+ inch breaker bar whilst the bolt is fully in battery position, with the exception that the trigger has been depressed whilet s the bolt was cycled into battery position . Thus has a few effects. One, that the firing pin is rendered in its complete forward position. And that in this state of operation on an empty chamber should not harm the approved system of operation of the action I'm afraid 3 cycle a live round into a savage model 110fp or short action model 10 whilst I keep the trigger depressed , I'm a total dumbass here and I dont want to.get hurt like really... but I like doing torque specs on reassembly. And if I can't buy off the shelf lubrication or thread lock materials as recommended by you personally, then send a small quantity of required materials to me for your billable amount, thanks for your advice and when many other bolt loosening or nut loosening techniques fail , napa Carrie's a product called Freezeoff. And I will tell you with me dying breath that you can't find your absolution in a can, that's on you. Otherwise get a can of freezoff by crc and follow the directions to the letter and you will stand more of a chance of doing your repair work verses having to pass a very expensive repair bill to your customer it's like duck tape to macgyver for you, but I still need know the overall length for a savage short action. 308 win in 5r firing pin length over?
Do you use a breaker bar to loosen the bolt barrel bolt?
Is it normal for the bolt after you shoot a round for the bolt to twist the whole thing except the extractor part?
Good day sir. i was hoping you could help me with my current build. I have a savage 110 elite precision in 223 and i want to swap it out to a 6.5 prc. my problem is that i am not sure exactly what parts i need. its my understanding that a regular magnum bolt head by itself will not work. So do i need the magnum bolt head, a longer buffer and longer firing pin? or getting a magnum bolt head with a shortened tail ?
great video by the way love the channel , have good one !!
Good video... did you put it together without ejector for head space?
dragonfly fab ya, I leave out the ejector for headspacing
Do you have to torque that nut or just hand tight?
Why does the Savage have that rear set of guide lugs and other manufacturers don't feel the need for them?
I need help, I'm trying to take mine apart and I've had the half inch impact on it and couldn't get it. Any tips? Without using a vise?
Try using crc product freezoff by direction. More than once if necessary literally. I don't usually trust engineers, but I stand by my own experiences. Old school guys will not reject me as they witness
I don't remember what I did to get my bolt apart the first time, but I do recall, it was a MAJOR PAIN IN THE ASS!!! I've also found that the Tetra grease sucks! It tends to gum up and turn brown and creates rust where it sits on any parts. Not sure if you've noticed that. I stopped using it. Maybe it's not meant to sit on there for very long but I had a few guns that I hadn't used for a couple years and that's what I found.
mikeyjr I’ve seen it gum up if there’s to much on. If you leave a very fine skim coating, essentially dry, I don’t have any issue at all.
You're supposed to rub the grease into the metal and wipe off the excess. It gets into the micro abrasions in the metal and lubricates even when it appears dry, pretty sure that's written on the back of the tube.
My new 12fv has a very sticky bolt and the extractor doesn't work very well.
So I have a question
I have a savage 308 an when I load a round in the chamber the bolt doesn't grab the round to ejecta it an it get stuck in the barrel.
Replace the ejector and extractor and also make sure you get new springs. This is the most common cause
Is there a specific torque setting on the keeper bolt?
35-40 ft-lbs is what I use but I've heard to many conflicting specs to say for sure. Maybe Savage would tell you, but they wouldn't tell me.
I have a 223 savage. It is rough to open and close. Any idea what I should do?
I usually polish it
Leave it in the gun. Brake it loose. But leave it hand tight
Thankyou sir, I thought i was going to break something to the point i was going to stop, then saw your vid and used rattle gun - this worked a treat and excellent video.
i pulled mine apart as i had a couple of light strike misfires on new Wolvering 450. All looked good inside apart from a bit of crud im the bolt bore , but i could not see this causing an issue.
Hey if the bolt face retaining pin is not lined up well enough for the firing pin to travel through freely do you think it would be possible for this scenario to cause drag on the side of the firing pin and cause light strikes? New to Savage so im just trying to figure out what may be causing this. head space and reload dims all good but this only happened on my first reloads and not factory ammo.
Cheers
Rob
So anyways the bolt is so slick now, after removing all the old gummed up grease, and doing some polishing. My only problem is I wasn't thinking when I disassembled the firing pin, and now I need to set the firing pin depth, and not sure why these are adjustable from the front side of the spring, and rear. compressing that spring sucked as well, which is why in all the videos no one disassembles it. Well if there is anyway you could throw together a quick firing pin disassembly & reassembly vid I would be grateful.
Is there a segment about removing and replacing the extractor and the ejector pin?
I just bought the 12fv last week. Went to shoot it today. I couldn’t get a round to go off. There’s just the faintest little tap on the primer from the firing pin. I took the bolt down and lubed everything with rem oil. From what I could see the firing pin was moving freely before and after the cleaning. I wasn’t shooting the highest quality ammo it was ppu rifleline in 22-250. Any ideas? I mean surely a whole box of ammo couldn’t have bad primers or something right?
jake hart if you have light strikes you have a gun problem. If it’s new, send it back for warranty. If you try to fix this yourself you might void the warranty
Vaughn Precision I looked over a couple of the rounds I tried to test fire. It’s arguable that I don’t even see a primer strike, defenitly nothing clear atleast. I’m changing direction with my thoughts and thinking that maybe the accutrigger was adjusted light enough that it wasn’t letting it actually fire. Like how if your press on the side of the trigger only, you get a nice click. I live in the desert so I’m going to go see if she fires now. Thanks for the quick reply. I’ll let you know how it goes. But I have other savage rifles and did have to have warranty work done on one and it was absolutely horrible tbh with you. I was told 3 week turn around time. Got it back in two months. Never able to get through to customer service. I’d like to avoid that if possible lol. By the way. Your Channel is badass. Ultimately this made me by the 12fv the other day lol
jake hart let me know what happens. Yes when adjusted to light that will cause what your talking about. As long as you don’t have any strikes on the primer at all
Vaughn Precision gun shot great. Picked up a box of hornady on my way it shot good and so did the cheaper stuff. Have a nice clear mark in the primer now lol. I think it was that trigger. Idk what they set them to at the factory. But it was incredibly light. Or maybe I had a but or something in the bolt housing. Either way. I’m not complaining. Just happy I don’t have a 450 dollar paper weight.
It looks like you went counter clockwise to remove the end of the bolt. Is that the same for left handed rifles too? I have two rifles I'm working on, one right handed and one left handed. I disassembled the right handed bolt no problem, but the left handed bolt won't come loose. Would I need to go clockwise to remove the end of the bolt from the left handed rifle?
Don’t quote me on this but I think they are the same. Some come apart much harder then others. I’ve had to use an impact before on a few
@@vaughnprecision thanks for the quick reply! Yeah I'm using an impact wrench and it just won't seem to budge. I've covered the end in CLP and let it sit overnight too. I can't imagine it would have a reverse thread, but you never know.
Please help!!! Brand new out of the box the rear baffle fell off and I can't figure out how to put it back on. Any guidance is greatly appreciated. Fantastic videos sir -
My 7mm06 had w round discharge luckily it was only a 125grain when I was trying to rack the slide to eject the bullet has this happened to anyone else
Luckily only 125 grain?
put some leather around it in the vice it will be fine !!!!!
MY FRIENDS bolt handle SEEMS not to fall completely down INTO the saddle on HIS 700 rem.
You do know that you can also assemble the bolt with the bolt cocked
Thx for the video. I'm flummoxed! I was told by Savage that the bolts were designed to not need to be disassembled / cleaned. (I've never heard of that!) How often do you disassemble for cleaning?
Marc W depends on how much shooting I do but usually 1 to 2 times per year
Do you know if a savage model 11 in .223 can be converted into 308?
Wong bolt face, won't work. You can change out some things but I would recommend just buying another action.
yes, buy the 308 bolt head...
www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=savage+bolt&userItemsPerPage=48
russr , The front baffle is diffrent and the one on midway usa doesnt look like the wifes 7mm-08. The side with the fin is shorter than the otherside. Its a mystery on where to find them. The ones pictured on midway dont look the same
2 types...
www.midwayusa.com/product/1778956092/savage-arms-front-bolt-baffle-savage-10-through-16-steel
www.midwayusa.com/product/1778128320/savage-arms-front-bolt-baffle-savage-110-through-116-steel
russr , second one is closer but the fin side is shorter on the model 11 i got the wife in 7mm-08 from what i heard on savagesopoters is that all this side does is stop the bolt when pulled back. I just dont know if its the right one to give me the clearance i need? As the 7mm-08 should be no diffrent from .308
what is the different between the silver bolt and the black bolt in the savage gun
Bobby Arnett usually, but not always, the silver is a stainless steel bolt while the black could be painted steel. This can be all over the board and the only way to be sure is to contact savage or test it yourself.
You didn’t take the front bit apart ??
Yes I sure did.
Could you please help me. I’m trying to put the stock back on my factory 111. It’s seems the action needs to come rear-ward about 1/8th inch. I cannot find any videos on how to fix it. Thanks.
Travis Higginbotham can you email me a picture of this
Tried to unscrew the bolt !! Can’t get it loosened !!!
Some of those can be very stubborn, you may need to use an impact on it the first time. After that they will come apart easier.
@@vaughnprecision you said youd use locktite for it, how important is that?
ANY one got a IDEA?
So it turns out my savage 11VT has a different firing pin assembly
Where can i buy a bolt for Savage rifle model 3B single shot long rifle,shot rifle HELP PLEASE it is for a surprise gift
You can’t buy one that I’m aware of
What is that bolt/replica sleeve you're using to cycle the bolt back and forth?
This is part7. Go back and watch ALL of this Master Craftsman's projects!
did not show how to change the extractor, was not a complete break down.
Yea I'm trying so hard not to chuck this bolt out the window. Everything is no cooperating
Hair cut & a shave 2 bits.....
Shave and a haircut...two bits