Thank you NJS for your great videos, will be watching more soon. Sorry I have to add something to this one.. I just spent the last few days stripping steel parts from my 1981 land rover to send for galvanizing. Like in this video I tried paint stripper, but some parts had several coats of paint, rustproofing and filler putty. If anyone watching this finds that paint stripper does not work for filler & rustproofing.. make sure you remove any fire hazards (fuel tanks, solvent cans, etc) use additional protective gear like welding gloves & use a gas blow torch to burn the filler putty, chisel, painters scraper & wire brush - it will save you a lot of time. Don't use blow torch on delicate steel parts or aluminum as they may warp.
Absolutely bizarre. Today I used the exact same 4 methods trying to strip 4 layers of pain in a metal bench, and I thought let's look at youtube if chemical stripper works.
Nope, its been around for a while already. Its just people dont know it exist such a thing but if you go to school for finishing then its a must to know :)
It was around in the 1960's and it was not described as "new" back then either. But they have come up with several more "environmentally friendly" types since then.
@@KD51LifeofaRacer it is a generic brand from a Swedish home improvement store. I doubt you could get hold of it in the US but if you want to I can look if they still make it.
@@Mms_35830 chisel or sand if it is cured. On porous surfaces like wood or concrete you could get lucky to losen it with a paint stripper or acetone before mecanically removing it. For me, and if the work piece allows it, a heat gun has worked best
Due to the caustic nature, clean up, risk of chemical burns, poisonous fumes and Very high costs for these products... Its much safer and cost effective to find a local shop that does bead/media blasting. With an appointment, you can typically have a part this size back the next day. You can also choose a less or more aggressive finish by deciding what blast material that's used. I tried chemical strip first.. what a mess. Never again
you shouldnt be painting it on you should be stabbing and dabbing it on with the end of the paint brush to ensure a thick coat if you paint it on then your brisles will be wipeing most of it off but thx for taking the time
Thank you NJS for your great videos, will be watching more soon. Sorry I have to add something to this one.. I just spent the last few days stripping steel parts from my 1981 land rover to send for galvanizing. Like in this video I tried paint stripper, but some parts had several coats of paint, rustproofing and filler putty. If anyone watching this finds that paint stripper does not work for filler & rustproofing.. make sure you remove any fire hazards (fuel tanks, solvent cans, etc) use additional protective gear like welding gloves & use a gas blow torch to burn the filler putty, chisel, painters scraper & wire brush - it will save you a lot of time. Don't use blow torch on delicate steel parts or aluminum as they may warp.
I recommend you use a plastic scrapper. It should be enough and it wont damage your piece :)
Cheers, good tip.
Great video. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the Great Video! And some excellent pointers from the comment section also👍😉🇨🇦
Glad it was helpful!
I have to remove Black Bull off the barrel of an 1872 Ballard rifle that I assume was applied to preserve blueing. Any suggestions?
I sprayed a metal fire basket with Hammerite spray paint by mistake.Will this stripper remove it.Thanks.
Guess I'll get my wire wheel. I've done the stripper. Thanks for the vid
Cheers
I am doing the same restoration and this might save me hours
Have you tried acetone 🤔
hello! I would like to know if it works to remove varnish and paint on wood! Thank you!
I'm not too sure, I haven't tired it so I can't 100% confirm...
Absolutely bizarre. Today I used the exact same 4 methods trying to strip 4 layers of pain in a metal bench, and I thought let's look at youtube if chemical stripper works.
Lol...that happened to me on a different tangent once also!😅
I'm in California. The crap that is available here, I might as well use my tap water.
😂😂😂
I am sure there is some gender neutral green solution out there for ya
@@MurCurieux HaHa California, I get it. Good put down there cowboy.
Think of that all by your lonesome?
Thanks for the video. Where’d you find the Poly stripper? I’m trying to find this one in particular but don’t see any stores that sell it
Thanks
-Jeff
Hi Jeffry, just from the local hardware store. I purchased this from Bunnings.
@@NJSInstructional thanks
I used a drill with a wire brush. Got most of it off.
This is great, but, they don't sell it in the US.
What if we don’t have any paint stripper thing
Acetone should work fine, just not as well
Sand blaster
Paint stripper is a new technique for stripping paint off things?
Nope, its been around for a while already. Its just people dont know it exist such a thing but if you go to school for finishing then its a must to know :)
It was around in the 1960's and it was not described as "new" back then either. But they have come up with several more "environmentally friendly" types since then.
After stripping paint from the metal, how should I clean up any chemical residue of the paint remover? Just wipe it down with tissue or rinse it off?
Acetone would be the perfect but you probably already figured out and job done since
Acetone is the solvent you'll need and a brush to remove. good luck
Metholated spirits.
My paint stripper is even more toxic, it even desolves my gloves in seconds 😁
What paint stripper do you use? Link?
@@KD51LifeofaRacer it is a generic brand from a Swedish home improvement store. I doubt you could get hold of it in the US but if you want to I can look if they still make it.
avez vous un nom celui ci fonctionnerais sur de l'epoxy?
@@Mms_35830 chisel or sand if it is cured. On porous surfaces like wood or concrete you could get lucky to losen it with a paint stripper or acetone before mecanically removing it. For me, and if the work piece allows it, a heat gun has worked best
@@MrSlushy87 je ne comprend pas tres bien :(
Due to the caustic nature, clean up, risk of chemical burns, poisonous fumes and Very high costs for these products... Its much safer and cost effective to find a local shop that does bead/media blasting. With an appointment, you can typically have a part this size back the next day. You can also choose a less or more aggressive finish by deciding what blast material that's used. I tried chemical strip first.. what a mess. Never again
I just ran across a video saying break fluid is the best.😮
My pain stripper is so strong that it will eat through 3 pair of gloves in a few seconds
you need special gloves for the stripper ..the regular ones wont work
Better video title: "How to ruin a chisel."
Try brake fluid
Bet this stuff next to impossible to find now
Twu💥
Sand blast with a soft sand
Where can i do dat
you shouldnt be painting it on you should be stabbing and dabbing it on with the end of the paint brush to ensure a thick coat if you paint it on then your brisles will be wipeing most of it off but thx for taking the time
Why ain't that wood split tho?
if the paint is stuck on so good, why bother stripping in the first place, can’t you just paint over it?
POISON narrrr
this is one of the most useless videos on the internet