Pricking Irons - Which are the right ones?
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- čas přidán 22. 04. 2021
- They come in many different shapes and with many different names.
But whether they are called Pricking Iron, Stitching Iron or like here Pricking Hollow, they should help us to prepare holes for hand stitching.
But - where are the differences? And, is it worth to change from the cheap chissels to expensive precision tools?
In this video, I have tried to explain the basic differences between the various types.
As always, I also report here from my experiences. And just these, have led me to the Pricking Irons, which I illuminate in this video.
The "PRICKING HOLLOWS" of the English company Pro Atellier Plus have finally become the irons of my choice.
You can see why in the video. If you are also interested in these tools, then I can recommend the manufacturer's website.
www.proatelierplus.com
There you will find all the information about this wonderful tool.
However, if you prefer to buy from a dealer within the EU, you can also find these Pricking Irons at:
leatherartisanlab.com
Without annoying customs problems and similar hassle, you will be helped perfectly, competently and friendly.
Have a look at the store page. There you will find many really outstanding tools, which you will rarely find otherwise.
The operator of the site is an internationally known leather artist, who sells only tools in his store, with which he also works and can recommend without reservation.
More information about leather can be found here on this channel or on my blog.
www.rabomslederkiste.de
![[REVIEW] BuckleGuy & Corter Leather Pricking Irons + FREE PDF tool pouch](/img/n.gif)
Thanks for a well made video Rabom!
I would however wanna offer my own (as a professional leatherworker for several years) perspective on this topic. So newcomers to this craft can consider the different options when it comes to pricking irons VS stitching chisels.
Let me say this, I prefer pricking irons over chisels. When I first started out as a hobbyist I found an interest in the historical aspect of leatherwork and therefore I found the pricking iron and awl to suit me better since that is the traditional way of doing things. When you first begin your journey it's very tempting to go for the quick and easy stitching chisels. You will get way better results in a more timely manner. For small objects like keychains, wallets those are fine. They work very well for that task. If you however want to stitch more intricate items like bags with gussets you will need to use an awl at some point. Since it's more versatile.
If you find yourself in a couple of years down the line.. using chisels selling wallets.. earning money and someone asks you to make a bag you will be very limited in which designs you could chose to produce. It's very unlikely that you would do the switch to real pricking irons years down the line and start stitching like a beginner again. It does take a couple of months up to a year to get proficient using the awl and irons. Therefore it would be better to spend the start of your leatherworking journey with irons and awls. You should at the very least own a pair of both so you can devote time to practice using the awl alongside using the chisels.
Anyone can use chisels.. learn to use an awl and pricking irons. Those two tools will set you apart from the crowd and you will thank me in a couple of years for letting you in on this. They will also last you a lifetime, since you don't put as much stress on pricking irons in comparison with chisels. Do not take shortcuts (like chisels) or your work will look like a shortcut when you try to make more intricate items. It takes time to learn an instrument like piano.. it takes time to learn stitching the right way as well. It's easier to look like a beginner in the start of your journey rather than later on.
Danke für die Arbeit, für die hervorragenden Erklärungen, die auf den Punkt genau treffen, was man beim jeweiligen Thema wissen muss! Mir hat es geholfen, eigene Recherchen haben mich nicht soweit gebracht.
Schön zu hören. Und ... gern geschehen.
Great video thank you!!
After holiday these are going to find a nice home.
You won't regret it
I have these in 3mm and definitely will pick up a set of 3.85 for larger items. Thank you for the wonderful review. It helped in my decision making.
How did you go with 3.85mm? I just ordered a set but thinking maybe return them for 4mm?
You are 100% correct. I have a set of cheap irons. Very rough , not polished , bend easy and get stuck all the time kind of irons. They give me too many problems. Those "sinabroks" pricking irons and chisels look very well made. But they are extremely expensive. And hopefully worth every penny i will spend on purchasing them. Cheers from Montreal.
this is a fantastic video explaining everything i needed to know as someone looking to start this new hobby - your english is better than most english speaking people on the internet! in fact - better than some of my friends! I will be looking at the website for my first set of tools...thank you very much .
Thank you. That means a lot to me.
These are sold by pro atelier, not made by them. They are made in China. That being said, it doesn’t where they are made as they are made by machines. EDM machining is super expensive but it is the most precise machining in the world. It is super clean right off the bat like the ones you have. On even more expensive pricking irons, they will do some extra polishing but even without it, they are smooth enough to slide out of the perfectly. As for 440c, it is not the ideal steel for a pricking iron as it lack impact resistance and toughness, it is much better than some other sets made of DC53. DC53 is amazing for knives or bevelers as it is very wear resistant and has good edge retention (stays sharp longer). However, it is really hard but brittle and chips or breaks really easily, is has very low toughness and low impact resistance. 440c is better as it is tougher but ideally, they would use something more impact resistant, with even higher toughness. Heat treating to the right hardness is crucial as well. 440c is considered stainless but is definitely not the most corrosion resistant/rust resistant. Due to the high carbon content it it, the free elemental chromium bonds to the carbon to create chromium carbides. The carbides make the steel more wear resistant but takes away from the corrosion resistance of the steel as it is free chromium that provides stainless steel’s corrosion resistance. This is why you can have two steels that have the same percentage of chromium in them but different corrosion resistance. Carbon content. Anyway… I’m rambling.
I thought they were made in Japan but maybe it's just Japanese steel but made in China.
@@ronkiely6183 nope. Just a Japanese steel. It may not even be Japanese DC53 but rathera Chinese copy of the same exact steel mix. But yes, the prongs are 100% made in China. Again though, that doesn’t matter as the a made using special EDM machines. Those machines work just as well in China than they do anywhere else. That being said the finishing is top notch.
Thanks Eckhart Tolle
While I probably don't need new pricking irons, that will not stop me from getting them. I was thinking about getting the KS Blade but noticed something. Usually, I just pay attention to SPI, but lately I've been thinking about tooth width. What do you think is better: irons with a 1.6mm standard tooth width for both 2.7 and 3.0 irons and a 1.8mm standard tooth width for 3.8 to 5.0 irons (KS Blade), or irons that have differentiated tooth widths for each SPI iron: 2.7 -- 1.45mm; 3.0 -- 1.6mm; 3.38 -- 1.75mm; 3.85 -- 1.85mm (Pro Atelier Plus/Isvara)?
I think pro atelier plus irons are doin it right. Bigger spacing between stitches recommends a bigger thread. So the teeth width has to be bigger.
Smaller sizes can have smaller width because you usually take smaler threads like 0.6mm.
To sew smaller spacing with bigger threads looks awful in my opinion.
So it makes sense to reduce the width of the teeth when having smaller spacing between them.
@@Rabom This seems like a good approach, though most manufacturers appear to overlook this aspect.
@@pequodexpress yeah. Often the irons a making to wide slits that are not filed with thread.
Do you have an opinion on using reverse pricking irons or regular pricking irons? Would you say one is better than the other or just up to personal preference? Thanks
Hi Wade, the reverse stitching chisels are mainly made for people who are left handed. Since you usually do your saddle stitch by working towards you it's more convenient to have the upper corner of every stitching hole point away from you. If you are left handed and use regular chisels that would be impossible. The upper corner would point toward you which is kinda inconvenient imho because you won't be able to see the broad side of your awl blade while sewing which might cause irregularities in your seam.
Some people use regular and reverse stitching chisels on the same project because the backside of a punched through stitching hole is not as pretty as the front side. The leather kinda turns outwards where the prong goes through. So some perfectionists use reverse chisels to push the leather "rim" back in.
I hope this answers your question 🤗
Reverse is for doing the backside on your work as well. You get a much cleaner stitch matching rather than going through multiple layers.
@@chrisjames_official Yea and it's also very useful for box-stitching.
How would you describe the feeling of striking these hollowed handles? What benefit do they provide? Does the lower center of gravity require less striking force or more?
Well, I think I told it in the video. Perfect handling in my opinion.
@@Rabom Just a little bit of confirmation and love for the algorithm.
Hi Pequod, in my experience (I happen to have a few sets of these stitching chisels and used several other ones before) the cut out in the handle gives the tool more balance so it won't tip over as easy as others do while striking it. As for the force, I can't say there's much difference to others. They're highly polished and go in and out pretty smoothly.
The prongs of these tools are slightly blunt. At first I thought that wasn't so good but I changed my mind about that. The fact that they're ever so slightly blunt grants the possibility to give the tool a light tap without breaching the leather surface so you can correct the position without leaving any marks.
What is the exact material of the black pounding board? I'd like to source it from a manufacturer.
I really got no clue what material it is.
But it is really the best way to protect your punching irons.
You can find these boards here:
leatherartisanlab.com
@@Rabom I have a similar board from Japan, but am looking to source in China as I have other orders in China to consolidate for international shipping.
@@pequodexpress the only thing I know is, that OKA has a website.
www.oka-craft-tools.co.jp/
Here is a good comparison of that rubberized board and a more common cutting board.
czcams.com/video/l4kHaGCDNmI/video.html
I know that video. Thanks. I will make a comparison video myself.
In fact, I already finished the testing Phase. And I still like the OKA board the most. When it comes to punching irons.
Detailed commercial ad👍
Yeah commercial ad for a product that deserves to be promoted.
Honestly... never had better tools.
$150+ for a 3 piece set?....there's not a chance in hell....
You can pay a lot more for other brands.
This is compared to others a mid price tool.
I love them. Never had better ones.
There is one called Olive shape. 4Z made and I have both French, Japanese, and Olive ones. The olive shape is easy to stitch and ends up like European(French style) stitching.
Oh. Thank you for that information. Never heard of it.
Sounds interesting.
@@Rabom He reviewed here, but the seller only sells on aliexpress. high quality pricking Iron. I also bought 20 +5 teeth. czcams.com/video/C_5T1h7clUE/video.html
@@Rabom Two types of teeth. Normal and Olive shape. For olive shaped, you have to ask maybe. I don't see the olive on in aliexpress.