Stihl ms462 r c-m Working On A Nice Fir
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
- An extended session using the 462 working on a pretty nice second growth Douglas fir tree.
My initial estimation of the volume for this tree was ~ 2k board feet. After scaling for the day's total, it came in at just a little under 2300.
Managed to miss the stumps AND getting a bonk on the gourd as well so God was smiling on me here.
The dialog in this video sums things up pretty good.
I'm currently available for custom saw modifications. Please shoot me an email if you are interested.
danger_cat@rocketmail.com
Thanks for watching.
A real man, doing real man stuff... honorable and worthy of admiration. Thank you sir, for your service.
Your skills are truly amazing! I have learned so much from watching your videos. God bless you and your family 🙏
Absolutely... I watch every cut, every angle, footstep... GOLD.
Always a pleasure to watch the master at work, in the shop or in the brush.
Jack this is by far the best tree man's channel on CZcams. Not sure why you don't have 1,000,000 subs. Show cutting tech , and timber felling skills. And some of the greatest shop talk offered. Couldn't attend a small engine repair class and see and learn more. I guess all in all its because you are honest Christian man. You don't have your hand out lying about where you came from and relying on your subs for your income and begging for donations so you can START JACK'S ARMY. And you dont have a donate button that lights up and jumps out of the screen. God bless God's army and you. Your truly a hids man and thank you for your time.
Billy would have had that cut in minutes!!! He would have double wedged it!!!
Old Man Fred I was thinking that too. Both of them are good fallers, different styles I guess!
Savage, they certainly are Sir!!!
@@oldmanfred8676 lol lol lol lol sure he would. You must not cut at all!!!!!!!
You’re right Stepp, I never cut at all, I just watch it being done on CZcams.
"Dude, those chips were Mondo!"
Dude!
DOUG out
Really like to see your expertise n different felling techniques keep up the great videos
I skidded around some cutters today and i have to say it was great being back in the fresh air and hearing big Doug fir hitting the ground. Great videos keep your head on a swivel and stay outta the bite
Your a true professional! Be safe have fun!!
Your saw handling skills are impressive.
Always nice to see your work alot of skills going on there saw sounds awesome
Always entertained with your skills. Thanks for sharing
First time I think I’ve seen you do without the large clutch cover. After your videos I can’t imagine I’ve ever ran a saw without them. I’ve ordered for all my saws, 362 and up.
Stephan hi
I fitted my 462 with a "big kid" clutch cover really early on - back in late '17 or early '18 I think it was.
They are not quite the same as the previous version that worked on the 044 through 660 however.
Thanks for watching.
I’ve never understood why all Stihls don’t have the big clutch cover , that was the 1st thing I bought for my 461.
@@hotsaws101 my friend, what is the best mixture for 372 xp 357xp and scythe 545rx 1:50 1:40 or 1:33?
@@Sensei948 hi.
Most, if not all currently, of the manufacturers recommend 50:1. They are pretty big on that concentration also.
It will be partially dependent upon the mix oil choice.
I run 48/50:1. But I blend my own.
If your running a sub par or low quality oil then mixing it rich is probably a good idea. But, not always. The characteristics of said oil need to be considered. Just like application, fuel choice, maintenance factors, the saw's state of tune & jetting.
I always am coming from a place of having/using saws that run well and chains that will cut.
I maintain my equipment as well.
In the end, there is no "x". People have their ways and run different saws, chain, and oils. I can tell you my preferences and back up my statements from years of using, trying, and testing an array of saws, chains & mix oil. I cannot tell you what to do.
Thanks for watching.
@@hotsaws101 How to proceed with the saw after replacing the piston and rings? after replacement it is 140 psi?
that's one mean little 462! Ive got an old 046 mag that's about in mint condition things so powerfull in stock form couldn't imagine running that newer modified saw!
J&S hi. Provided your 460 is in great condition, in an equally modded situation, it would stomp all over this 462. There are a few videos in the collection that showcase my statement. If it's brute power you want stick with the 046/460/461 platform when compared to the 462.
Thanks for watching.
Sharp chain! Looks like confetti flying out. Great video man.
It seems to pull that 30" pretty well over all. Just a few bogs.
Lots of lift before the tree went in the right direction lot less effort to jack it. Rather then pound she hell outta wedges stack them and have it possibly still not go over. Good job Jack. Keep on tippin!!
That's one seriously hungry and razor sharp saw :O WOW good job man!
God has blessed you with some very cool skills Jack! Glory to God!
One of my favourite channels, never miss a vid!! God bless.
Great job! Thanks for the content. God Bless!
I have never had to use a jack when felling a tree. Pretty interesting.
Top notch Timber Feller!
Holy mechanical advantage Batman ! That’s a sweet little jack , Jack !
Thanks for sharing Jack.
Mega chips! That saw shreds! Nice work Jack
Thanks for posting the vid sweet saw
Great video! Stay safe out there
Man that saw sounds good.
That limb was throwing down at ya Jack! Oregon used to sell that 30" light years back but stopped producing them because they weren't a big seller I guess. I always liked the 30". I wish stihl would make a lightweight 30 I like their bars
Josh hi.
Maybe I missed a few things over the years....
I've never seen a lw 30" bar from any of the manufacturers that make/made reduced weight bars. I have asked, and even suggested, to Blount, about them making a 30" lw bar while standing in the factory.
Oregon made 100 lw bars in their initial test run ~ 2000. They had green paint and were passed out to various shops for use/impressions. Are those the ones you are referring to?
I was given two of those to provide feedback on. They were 32" long.
Thanks for watching.
@@hotsaws101 it's been quite awhile since I had one but yes I got 1 lw 30" from my local saw shop. Now that you mention the green that rings a bell. I think the the Oregon logo and artwork was green. I wish I still had one
Man oh Man , not much left holding that puppy! Nice Job! Going to have to get one of those 462’s just cause!
Richard F hi. Lifting this tree was a multi-stage process. The hinge was cut up in the very end after the tree had been lifted a long way and gravity was starting to work against the holding wood. Seems like to me, there was just enough hinge wood left through the process - otherwise I "wood" have jacked it over backwards. Thanks for watching.
thanks Jack. Keep em coming
Nice work!
She was a little hungry nice timber 👍
Thats one sharp ass saw
Jack can you give a good review thoughts on the 462 v 461 after working with it a bit more....I’m personally disappointed in the way stihl is moving...
Timber Tramp - This kind of sums it up czcams.com/video/Re15AuX_e7U/video.html
Thanks for watching.
Nice work man
Cesar 🧔🏻
I wouldn’t swing next to a house or in a head wind but out in the middle cutting the oversized, ...fun when it works
Sweet cutting!
NICE SHOT JACK.
Stihl should make a 30” light! #stihlchainsaw
Man i could cry all night for one of thosd saws..wow..sthil and companys should be following all you guys on how to make saws..this emision stuffs its rediculous..mean while big semintrucks go by poluting way way more not to mention every factory..its scam
stove pipe tree
Geez, that was a close one. Almost got ya.
14:21 DANGER! Watch that limb swinging back!!!
14:48 I am glad you pointed it out ;-)
thats why you usually step away from a falling tree and not forward to the side of it - unless you are making a youtube video, that is :-)
But you sure have good guardian angel!
Marty hi. The "danger zone" for the most part for a faller is within a 25' vector, 360º from the center of the stump. It's not a move to the back, side, or front of the tree necessarily. That is a point that the "safetycrats" that never fell a tree @ osha, or wherever, miss. It is a move to where you think it will be safe. This is based on an understanding of physics as well as experience from my perspective. It could be on the bottom side of the tree you are falling sometimes - I've cleared that way more times than I can count. The point is, being alert as to the potential dangers and have a mental plan when things go south. I'm usually doing that part as I assessing the lays (possible direction) as I'm approaching the tree initially.
I did see the limb coming here, did not walk completely under it, and also pointed it out.
Thanks for watching.
How are you liking that 462?? Carb swapped hopped up? Been thinkin bout gettin 1. Good vid always enjoy watching you cut. Be safe out there!!
Zdravo, da li si imao nekih problema sa elektronikom na 462C M ,da li se kvari? Hvala.
Love the videos keep em coming :)
Jack would you mind giving a video on grind for different chains and your opinion please sir.
Chuck hi.
It don't think it is so much about the way I grind. I think it is the way the angles are set up for the wood type - which usually will have variations from on side of rhe ridge to the other. I also did a tweak to mine to get a certain result. I don't think I could just be watched on a computer screen and then be duplicated at home.
And, any input I would have could ot be based on the wood types that I have personally dealt with. Although, it might be possible to tell someone where to start if they had the same machine.
Thanks for watching.
Bucking Billy Ray would just had wedged it over lol lol lol.
Stepp of Faith that’s the straight goods, friends. Freakin’ deadly.
@@dansherrell6803 lol.
@@dansherrell6803 but for real Jack is the real deal.
Stepp of Faith oh I definitely was not questioning his skill. I have no place judging his know how and talent. Excellent operator.
With 12 wedges stacked three tall, four wide! BULLSEYE!!!
Here is a technical question:
6:22 Why do you insert the lifting jack so deep into the tree? Is this stability issue?
I don't want to sound like a smarty pants, but the further you are away from the hinge the greater the leverage, so you would not have to pump as hard, seeing it you pump by hand.
BikeTrikeNTrail hi. In the future I will be addressing you in short hand. Hope that's okay.
So from a physics perspective you are right. From an application angle you are a little off. Here's why:
The leverage factor is greater the further the applied force is from the hinge/fulcrum - a given.
The wood density is going to be less in the cambium layer than the heart wood - which is the dead part of the tree, provided that wood is not rotten/disease ridden/etc. The solid heart wood will support (99.999999% of the time) lifting the tree. The sap (cambium layer) wood has a tendency to be weak and will split off (that is seen in the almost gone wrong vid), deform, and/or sink. Hence the jack seat sinking and the tree not lifting and possibly coming over backward.
Sometimes in a heavy lift I've seen the heart wood sink a little bit. Sometimes a lot. There is no "it's always like this" in the timber falling realm from what I've seen.
Thanks for watching.
@@hotsaws101 Thank you for taking the time to write such a detailed explanation on the position of the lift.
I would no have guessed, that the outer part of the tree, the cambium, could potentially not support the weight of the tree and thus fail.
And yes, in future you can call me Marty, I should have signed my name.
Cheers Marty
What is the most hours you have put on a 462? Any issues?
Kyle hi. idk. Maybe around 200. The engagement mechanism on the air filter gets "soft" pretty quick. But, with Stihl telling you to get a new filter every month.... I do wonder about the locking stud in the filter housing (plastic) wearing and getting sloppy as well.
The pins holding the dust flap are a little on the small side. Chain throw blew the lower one out.
They run smooth with the springs. The only other thing I noticed is they are a little lacking in the low end grunt department - as expected with the engine design and physical components.
Thanks for watching.
@@hotsaws101 Thanks for the reply.
Sick chainsaw
Hi Jack ! Is this the original saw or did you get another cover for it ?
Fabz Acres that’s how the saw comes from the factory.... minus the sticker heh heh..... guess you missed his bench talk video
Hey jack how do you like the ms400c vs the ms400 are they comparable for everyday use, what will they pull stock
I have not seen the non m-tronic in the states. No opinion as of yet.
I do prefer being able to tune the carb-a-tooter myself though.
Thanks for watching.
@@hotsaws101 I just got accepted at Fleming College for logging and forrestry, I have to say your videos what confirmed my interest to become a pro logger rather than working for a arborist company, I can only imagine the things you've seen In the Bush
Looks a lot like Oregon country.
Hi Jack! What was the measurement you made on the facecut for? Thanks
Measuring to fit his jack in that cut
Love you man! Where can I get a little jack like that from bro? ❤️💪😎
Borntrager tree jacks they are around 1200-2000$ for the purpose made ones like his , if you’re looking for more economical a bottle jack and piece of thick plate steel
Salt Creek (Simington Grinders) also make a self-contained version that is a copy of the Hi-Jacker which lifts ~ 45 tons if ~ 26 tons in not enough uumph.
Thanks for watching.
I love watching your videos, thank you for sharing. What is that chain called that you are using vertically to estimate where the tree will fall?
I don’t know what’s nuts? It’s a fir, low on the stump where its tough and landed perfect. I might have been lazier and cut the bottom side hinge and swung it in there. You can do a lot with a fir
Lorric Logging hi. You can, but, it depends on where the fir is located and to a degree, which species. Fir on the coast doesn't always hold on the stump like inland trees. Trying to "schwing" one around 180º could very well net a guy an expensive construction process "out back". Also, the wind had been a factor here a large part of the day. In the middle of a "schwing" and a gust of wind comes up and now you are having to explain to neighbors "what the heck" - and it's going to cost a pretty penny.
"Prudency" dictates use of another method in this scenario. Thanks for watching.
You and me both were impressed with that chain...my next saw...
Nic moc, teda.
I like that saw how much are they going for used ?
Ryans sawmill hi. Used? Uncertain. The majority of shops in this country haven't even seen a new one yet. Thanks for watching.
No chip deflector on that
tough guy clutch cover? I guess Stihl cut weight somewhere!
Evening Jack, what's the lift height on that "little" Silvey ?
Dave hi.
26 tons @ 10,000 psi. 2.6 tons per 1000 psi of pressure. I've seen the gauge at 15,000 more than once.....
Not sure what happen here except my errant computer operating skills...
I think it is ~ 3.25" until you see the blue line. The issue here is that the color wears off over the years.
In about 1/4 or 3/8" more you see the red line. Once you see the red, you are rebuilding the jack. Except, the early version of this was different and the rebuild kits have been nla for YEARS. On the later rendition, the seal kits are rare.
Weighs in ~ 18.9 fully laden with oil.
Not sure if all the trivia was worth it to you or not....
Thanks for stopping by.
Hm yeah I see where that grind isnt doing so good in fir, think maybe a semi skip might fair better?
That saw is bad a$$. I liked all the bonus bucking video.
How about a felling video of the 572XP?
Probably already burned a piston or chucked a bearing or maybe looking for all the screws the rattled out of it..
Keil hi. There are a number of 572xp videos included in the lineup on this channel.
Thanks for watching.
@@jessystine2197 hi. Nope. Keep in mind that the new Stihl saws are the metered air leak varietals as well. I've (as well as any other mechanic type guy that has worked on an amount greater than 5) seen issues with those as well. Just because it has a placard with a certain surname doesn't mean the saw won't be having any issues. Thanks for watching.
@@hotsaws101 hi Jack that was really just a joke nothing against you or your saws they all run great I'm just not a fan of 5 series saws myself havnt had good luck always loved my 372s and 390s I have both brands and have worked on both just a little disappointed in husqvarna.
35 years I have been cutting. This is just nuts
Why not just notch and back cut? Long day doing that on every tree???
Because he's probably trying to entertain us with an interesting method. I'm pretty sure he doesn't do it on every tree.
@@oldmanfred8676 if it was that easy he would. Videos don't do justice. How many videos you watched of him cutting lol lol.
@@oldmanfred8676your inexperience shows. if you ever cut you would notice how much he lifted the tree before gravity took over.
@@danielsmith2470 he doesn't you could have stached wedges and slid them in the back cut before the tree ever fell. That shows how much he had to lift it.
Yes I am not a longer so some things are not readily understood to me. Take this vid Why is he putting the jack in before the face cut. It didn't look like a back leaner. So can sombrody set me straight here? Thank you in advance!
He is pre-loading the tree 1st because if you put a big face cut in the tree it will set back and lean towards the house so back cuts first are better some times
Bob hi. I put the jack in first so the tree did not set back any farther than it already was. Since it leaning back toward the fence a bit as we checked with the plumb line.
Thanks for watching.
Where was this video shot? Thanks for a nice video.
Ragnar hi. Northern Cali coast. Thanks for watching.
hotsaws101 Thanks!
What chain grinder do you use?
Ladd hi. I have an old Neilson and a 451 B from Simington. I use the 451 for most of what you have seen lately since I cannot really see to hand file much anymore. Thanks for watching.
PER ABBATTERE UNA QIERCIA DI 3 METRI DI DIAMETRO CHE MOTOSEGA SERVE?
Cristopher hi.
It is going to depend a little on the bar length which will be a direct result of the steepness of the ground. Or, other encumbrances around the bole of the tree.
You can cut down a 9.84 foot tree with a 36" bar if a guy can get at it from all sides. Gut the heart wood and hit the back cut.
If only one side can be reached then it going to take some length. Maybe a 60" bar.
I can pull a 36" with some of my medium sized saws. My 661 will pull a 60 if needed. My 084 will pull a 60 better.
Another consideration is the time factor, If a guy is in a hurry then a bigger powerhead and a 42 or 50" bar might be in order.
In the end, impossible to tell what a guy can get away with without standing right there to asses the situation.
Best of luck & thanks for watching.
@@hotsaws101 NON HO CAPITO CHE TIPO DI MOTOSEGA SERVE PER UNA QUERCIA DI 3 METRI DI DIAMETRO
@@cristopheraltobranto1999 Senza stare lì, è impossibile per me dirti quale lunghezza della barra è necessaria.
In una situazione in cui potrei raggiungere l'albero da tutti i lati, userei una barra da 36" o 42". Mettere in faccia, sventrare il cuore di legno e poi iniziare sul taglio posteriore.
Non hai mai detto se fosse necessario sollevare l'albero dopo che era morto. Non sono sicuro del cono in quanto non ho visto l'albero di persona. Non puoi superare un taglio di ~ 9 o 10 piedi una volta che è a terra con una barra da 36 pollici come nota a margine. Tecnicamente, non puoi nemmeno superare un taglio da 9 piedi con una barra da 42 pollici. Ma generalmente, quando si va il più in profondità possibile, ci sarà solo un "quadrato" medio nel mezzo per rompere con la macchina - una macchina più grande - perché il peso dell'albero E il legno nel cuore sono ENTRAMBI lavorano contro di te. Una barra da 50" avrà un piccolo "quadrato" nel mezzo.
Entra in gioco anche la densità del legno. Più dure sono le fibre, maggiore è la potenza necessaria per tagliarle. Ho eseguito un powerhead più grande del normale per una lunghezza della barra quando rosicchiavo alberi più duri.
Faresti meglio ad assicurarti che si appoggi su un albero che sia anche di quel diametro. Potrebbe essere un vero problema se stai andando contro l'inclinazione dell'albero nella disposizione prevista.
Potrei usare il mio 461, 661, 181, 2100, 084, ecc. Potrei usare il mio 044 con una barra da 42 pollici solo per i calci.
Non hai mai menzionato una preferenza di marca.
Se hai intenzione di acquistare una sega per questa applicazione, potrebbe essere la 661 o la 395. Sebbene la 395 sia stata sostituita con la 592. La 592 funziona effettivamente meglio, in forma stock, di una 395. La 395 funziona meglio anche di un 661 con una barra lunga.
Il 395 ha il miglior sistema di montaggio anti-vide per far funzionare anche una barra lunga come una barra da 42" o 50".
Valuterei dove altro la sega può essere utile personalmente. Potresti abbassarlo e alzarlo con un powerhead più piccolo se il tempo non è una grande considerazione e le tue catene tagliano bene.
Il 585 gira vicino al 592. Il 500i funziona abbastanza bene anche in forma di serie, ma lo stock (molla) monta pesantemente. Non andrei più lungo di una barra lw da 3 'su quelli con il sistema di montaggio a molla di serie. Lo stesso per tutte le nuove seghe Stihl® ad eccezione della 880 o 881.
Anche il 3120 è capace. Avevo un 60" sulla mia e gestiscono molto bene una barra lunga.
I modelli 592 e 585 hanno un sistema di montaggio un po' più rigido rispetto alle seghe Stihl più recenti e più piccole.
Non hai mai menzionato nemmeno un prezzo. Le grandi seghe Stihl o Husqvarna® sono costose. Stihls generalmente sembrano costare di più per la stessa gamma cc.
Non hai mai menzionato anche quale marca di seghe hai già nella collezione. Sarebbe una considerazione per me. Poiché, alcune parti potrebbero scambiarsi. E non dover andare da un paio di rivenditori diversi per le parti.
Non c'è modo, sulla Sua terra verde, che io sia in grado di dire in modo definitivo che hai bisogno di "X" senza essere lì per vedere detta vittima e sono a conoscenza dei parametri dello scopo del lavoro.
Qui, ho fornito le basi che sono dei punti di considerazione dal mio punto di vista. Dovrai determinare la lunghezza della barra richiesta e fare in modo che la sega tiri tanti driver. Se conoscendo la lunghezza della barra, la prescrizione in controtendenza, la posizione - pianeggiante, ripida, aperta, ingombri, ecc., La considerazione del tempo, la preferenza del marchio e il prezzo, potrei restringere un po' il campo dal mio punto di vista.
Grazie per la visione.
@@hotsaws101 LA DOMANDA RICHIEDEVA UNA RISPOSTA SEMPLICE
QUESTA RISPOSTA NON È SEMPLICE
Wow that's professional work, how long have you been mastering those skills
I'm kinda a husqvarna guy have you used the new 572xp yet. Its supposed to be yet
Buddy he has been posting videos for at least 10 years. Go to his channel and catch up on his videos. Great guy and great channel.
He has another channel it is called 1danget cat
You often mention the discontinued Windsor full chisel that you like, did Carlton end up making the same thing? All I ever use is Oregon 75 cl and a little ck, probably none of my business but what are you getting a bushel in a patch like that? I realize that stick was probably a big one by looking at the standing stuff..
Ja gut, Super
You didn't have much meat left on that one? Could of used a little wind!
what kind of sneakers you got there?
csc131 sneakers .... lollll riiiiight
28" for a 70cc saw is "weightless"? Wow, those West Coast trees must be made of feta cheese.
Try that in a frozen 20" ash... Or a 30" hawthorn that'll blow sparks like you're cutting nails. Trust me, filing 6 or 7 times a day on 5 chains in -10 below zero will change your attitude about bar lengths real quick.
Up here on the right coast we run 20"-24" on 70cc, and sometimes they struggle with that untill all the cutters' edges are peaned over.
Hell, I've seen an arborist run an 066 with a 16" bar while up in the trees.
And I hear Australia is worse with layers of charred sap in the wood.
Yikes.
Weightless refers to the saws mass while in hand. It's a physics concept.
It has nothing to do with what you are cutting.
I, for the life of me, cannot figure out why the East Coast guys think they are the only ones - in this country - that have wood that is dense. Or, wood that pulls a fair amount of silica from the soil.
Live Oak. 4 to 6 feet on the stump. So, technically old growth. Growing amongst the old growth Douglas Fir, P-pine, Sugar Pine, Incense & Port Orford, etc., etc.
You cut them down at the end of the day. Because, well, if you do it first thing, you are throwing sparks. About ½ a bar width before the chain is roached.
White Oak. Might be "worser" than the Live Oak.
Black Oak when they are standing dead. Particularly hard.
Let's not even talk about the 6, 8, & 10 foot Eucs growing out on the the wind swept headland.
When you go up in elevation on this side of the country, hardness is increased, and it's a lot.
Get up there 6 or 8 thousand feet. If it is also in a windy area, hardness is noticeably worse.
A guy runs a long bar over here because of the ground. A lot of the yarder blocks, are steep and nasty. Sometimes the cat blocks just as bad - where you cannot just walk around every tree. I have some 20 & 30 foot tall cut banks that the trees are going off of in my current strip
Long bars - It's called being able to get back from the cut. Like when the logs pivot up because the tree when over a ridge and both sides are suspended.
Anyone that has spent any length of time felling timber out on West Coast understands this.
West Coast timberfalling. You should try it. Then comment...
Thanks for watching.
@@hotsaws101
I have spent some time on the Left Coast. West Olympia, WA, though I admit, it was only for 6 years, and I was not on the saw for most of it. That brutal weather and big timber is an experience! However, it's not the size, it's what it does that matters. There is a reason that essentially no one on the right coast runs bigger than a 24" on a 70cc saw.
Take maple. It's not a very "hard" wood that "pushes" silica. But give it ten or twelve, or sixty days at -15° and a foot of snow covered ice... You won't be running a 28" in that for very long if you actually want to get something done.
As we both know, it's not hardness... it's the grain. Each coast has completely differing environments, and weather, so the composition of the wood fibers is completely different. A fir out west is relatively straight grained... GIANT, wet, with a few inches of dirt infused bark.
Not in the east. It's a twisted, ingrown branched mess that can stop a ported saw at half a bar length. Limbing is an exercise in masochism.
I'm not trying to be a Negative Nancy. But to say that a 28" is weightless for a 70cc engine is shocking.. when I've seen a healthy 90cc struggle with a full skip 24".
I completely acquiesce that it is not always. It is absolutely the exception, and most 90cc saws run 30"+ bars daily and smile.
But a 28" on a 70cc is really pushing the engine under a consistent diet of hardwoods.
Same as a compact car can pull an empty 26' trailer without issue. But put a load on that trailer... It's performance is completely different. Now add a foot of snow and wind-chills in the -40°... It gets interesting.
No insult intended. Only respect brother.
Does no one yell timber anymore? Lol
Jonny hi. When a guy is lobbing the first one up/down/across into the road a holler is done a lot of times. It might be done every time in that situation depending on the circumstance.
When you cannot see where the tree is going to "lite" due to a brush hole or over a bank is another instance.
It comes from the day when handfallers worked with an axe and misery whip. When the two guys were sawing in the backcut it was pretty quite work as compared to a powersaw. It was a "courtesy" yell to alert any potential wanderer to look around a little.....
Nowadays you know where the guy is for the most part from the noise level.
Thanks for watching.
@@hotsaws101 cool thanks for the info, be safe out there
No you yell eeeeeeeyaaaaaaah!!!!!!!