Ronny , as a city slicker who gets out in the bush only every now and then i really appreciate guys like you who take the time to make vids like this. Thanks mate. Tim
as a country guy that has been offroading and using recovery equipment regularly through out my whole life, i also really appreciate these videos! it gives me good way to pass on knowledge to my less experienced friends and i enjoy watching a good lesson when they are this clear, concise and too the point. Thanks for the quality education and entertainment !
I love your videos, so thank you. I've been using these for decades, so I have some lessons learned. -Always be careful your fingers on the upright can't get hit if the handle slips free. -Keep your head out from above the handle. Lean clear over it, or lean back. -Have your escape path clear and planned ahead if things start moving. Run, don't try to stop it. Keep onlookers back and out of your escape path. -Keep a wheel barrow tire and tube (no rim) for sticking between the jack and your rig. Your shirt was doing similar but less effective. You can zip tie the tube to the jack, but usually they either stick there or aren't needed. -Keep WD-40 on hand (I've recently been told water can lube the pins when sand gets in there). -You can move either end of your vehicle sideways (like out of a rut) by jacking the center (or low side) until it teaters, then push the rig where you want it to go. Dumping some rocks or logs in the rut before you push can keep it from sliding right back in. I did a complete 180 once on a trail where I had no room to turn around and was already high centered in ruts and pointing toward worse. It took a long time, but less than walking home. -When you click to the climbing position, you can simply pull up on the handle and it will ratchet up to engage. You don't have to lift first, then click it. -You can and should jack up to get over hard points like rocks or stumps before you winch forward. But, don't leave your jack there and pull or it will wedge the climbing bar into your rig. Jack up, throw rocks or irritating onlookers under the tires, then take the jack out before winching. -You can use ratchet straps to keep the foot from sliding when it wants to. -A base is a must for much terrain, and I prefer my own custom one made of layered plywood with carraige bolts installed to provide pegs for the holes in the foot of my jack so it can't slip off. Then I cross drilled and use pins to hold the jack down to the base, so I can pull my base back up out of the mud or snow after a lift. FYI, I have a 60" hi-lift Xtreme in my F150, and a 60" Hi-lift firefighter recovery tool in my Grand Cherokee (not worth the extra money, but it has a cool foot with lots of options). I love your videos, so keep it up. I especially love how you say what features make you prefer something, so if I don't have that same need I can factor that in. Thanks!
He's right...the down procedure is dangerous. I was changing a tire without gloves in 110 degree weather. My hands slipped off the handler and it flew up and then just repeatedly jacked itself downward fast. The jack shot off the truck too. Luckily I was off to the side. Great video
Whilst there are a number of comments in the video about safety there are other points to note (as some reviewers have commented too). Firstly, one must always chock the wheels before using the jack to prevent the vehicle moving (as the jeep did). Applying the hand brake is no substitute; if the vehicle has a transmission brake, like a Land Rover, it can move as soon as the first wheel comes off the ground; if the hand brake operates on the rear wheels and you are lifting the rear the brakes become ineffective as the weight comes off the wheels. The other major risk is that the shoe of the jack can slip sideways if you are jacking under a bumper or a sill. It's far better to use a jacking point (which may require an adapter) or to weld metal lugs under the bumper or sill (as I have done on my 4x4). These jacks can be lethal and when used in recovery situations conditions are often challenging and the user may be very stressed. Carry the right kit with you (e.g. jack adapter and wheel chocks) and you are more likely to achieve a good outcome. Anyhow it's an informative video particularly for those not used to these jacks.
I've got a high lift, or as we call it, a tractor jack. It's probably 60 years old but works perfectly. Also have a manual tire bead breaker stamped Sears and Robuck1933. It works great too. Antiques I got from my father.
Heya there Ronny, love you use of the shirt, but I have a better solution. I have a split pool noodle on my highlift jack to avoid vibration noise while driving, works great as a panel guard aswell.
I've lived in a remote area of the Southern California Mojave Desert for 44 years and have been stuck in blow sand probably 100 times. Trying to dig your way out of sand is a wasted effort. The only way for one person alone to get out is to jack up the vehicle and fill in the holes under the wheel or wheels with rocks and sand, or whatever.... I have a high lift jack that I carry in my old 1978 Dodge Colt that I bought new and still tool around the desert with. The high lift jack is dangerous to use, but as you've shown in your really good video blog, it's highly effective and will get you out of almost impossible situations. My old Dodge Colt has steel bumpers and the high lift has been worth it's weight in 20 dollar bills for me. It's gotten me out of sand when the temperature was 118 plus, and being stuck in those conditions is not a guarantee toward continued good health.
Ronny, as a city person, these things always intimidated me. But your explanation and highlighting of risks is excellent. Getting to know your equipment before you need it for real is spot on. GReat video, thanks for taking the time to put it together.
Ronny - This was a really well made video. I especially liked how you repeated and emphasized the risks of injury when using a farm jack, and actually demonstrated the backlash of the handle if the user lets go halfway through a stroke when lowering the vehicle. Back when I was a kid in the '60's, these were the standard jack that came with cars and pickup trucks (of course, they were only as long as needed to lift the vehicle for a tire change). I remember my Dad warning me about how dangerous they were if used carelessly. The screw-type scissors jack became the standard OEM tire changing jack in light duty trucks and cars here in the U.S. sometime in the early 1970's as I recall.
Make sure the pins move freely and squirt with some lube once in awhile, especially if you carry them on the outside of your vehicle. If they dont engage fully bad things can happen. I have had the handle start ratcheting down and you cant get close to grab it. These are extremely dangerous if you are not careful, always double check and be aware of whats going on. Having said that they are one of the handiest tools you can carry for lots of purposes. I have also used them for stretching fence wire etc.
Check out the Rescue42 Jackmate. It's fifty US dollars but adds a lot of possible ways to use your High Lift Jack. Instead of using the pin that came with it I use a longer bolt like comes with the Jack. More secure during travel and storage. Probably overkill during use but better safe than sorry.
That was a great lesson. My lifted FJ came with a tiny bottle jack. So, hi-lift jack. Thank You, Ronny, for taking the time to pass on this knowledge on how to use and not use a hi-lift jack. I will get familiar with it in the driveway.
The wood is a great idea but i would reccomend framing the base on the wood though. Metal can be very slick on wood. I use 2x4 arround the highlift base over top of the high lift. I would also stand to the side just in case the hi lift slips and kicks out at the base
I am new to jeeps and off roading, Of all the CZcams channels I watch of the different expeditions and how-to do videos I like your channel the best. I wish I lived in Western Australia so I could go out with you guys.
Ronnie has learnt and shared a lot of good info over the years, He is one of a few who takes pride in what he teaches, I have been using Hi-Lifts for decades and it is good to see Ronnie teaching the safe tried and true methods of self recovery, WTG Ronnie.
another trick if all you have is the short farm Jack is to use a ratchet strap to strap your axle to the frame before lifting, this will keep your suspension from extending so you don't have to lift as high. only use very high quality ratchet straps due to the danger of the strap breaking and the the suspension forcing the tire down with a ton of force.
Having used mine once. I realize how much more I need to use it. You really have to get out and test your equipment. Even if you do it in a driveway. I used mine to help with a vehicle in my garage. Super nervous and trying an operation I had not practiced. I feel a little better about it now. But I need a lot more practice. I knew the principles and have even fully disassembled mine to do a complete rebuild. But all of that and my video watching did not completely prepare me.
Hi Ronny, I am new to 4 wheeling. I received a 4x4 and I'm planning on using it properly. Thanks to you and a few others I feel more confident about my first expedition over Easter. Thanks mate, your videos are heaps good.
Another use is to use the instability of the jack get a high centered vehicle free. especially if you have something crosswise under an axle, such as a log. Jack up the vehicle from the bumper on the OPPOSITE end you wish to go. From the front bumper if you want to go backward, rear bumper to to forward. Jack up the Jeep until it frees from the log or what ever the vehicle is stuck on and push hard. The Jeep will fall off the jack, hopefully far enough to be freed from the object its stuck on. WATCH YOUR TOES of the falling jack. if you have a winch use that, but this technique will work in a pinch. :disclaimer, this will take paint off of the bumper and possibly cause other damage if your rig is not up to the task.
Dont forget the stock scissor jack will still help for a tire swap. It only works if you can get under the axle. Of course if you have tires oversized it may not help. But considering most vehicles have a spot to store it anyways keep it on hand and dont forget it may be usefull
Thanks for the video. Although not as practical to carry, but any jack can be used with proper wood base. With some rocks properly positioned under the wood base, the shorter Hi-Lift jack can easily do the job. Houses have been lifted with hydraulic and proper wood base.
Exactly right , lifting on a smooth side step bar is dangerous even with the brake on it can still slide on sand or mud . I use one of those sling hooks attachment lift mates to lift the wheel when in a bog or place another jack or two under on blocks and let down on that to change a wheel . High-Lift jacks are great but they have a low margin for error . A bull bag is probably safer for lifting both wheels . Your strap is too long , if you shorten it the jacking mechanism stays down lower near the tyre . Less potential for damage .
Ronny thanks for the tips and Video. I noticed when you were lifting with the straps on the lift you put your padding on the body of the vehicle. You could also put a long wooden block between the jack and the tire, allowing jack to hit the block and push block intothe tire which would prevent all body damage. Cheers Mate
Watched a number of your videos so far and you've got some great stuff. I'm glad you're showing people HOW to use this tool and the dangers that are waiting. I don't use the high lift anymore... it's incredibly dangerous. I have instead custom built a aluminum floor jack with custom bolt on blocks that are waaaay better and safer. It is a bit heavier, but I'll take the weight and keep my fingers.
Grew up around vehicles that had bumper jacks for the factory. My grandparents and dad always threw them out and got a bottle jack as a replacement because they had experiences where the bottom would shoot out
In my 20+ years of working on cars, I’ve learned a few things. One is that the most useful tools are usually the most dangerous. This is no exception. Be careful everyone.
ADVANCEDTECHTIPS On farms they are great for many things from lifting dozer blades to changing traktor tyres. Great for lifting timber and spreading something you're working on. I stopped using them on 4wd's many years ago when I realised they are too inconvenient and sometimes dangerous. It's a farm tool - not a 4wd tool.
Ade Larsen Yeah I agree. Since my comment I have even lifted the corner of a 40ft sea container on the farm with the high lift to level it out. Definitely proved its worth!
You had me about ready to write a long dissertation about the adjustable control (radius) arms. How could you not elaborate more on them? That is by far the best way and easiest way to correct caster. If you're going to all the trouble to weld brackets or install adjustable ball joints (kingpins), a few dollars will buy you some adjustable control arms with heavy-duty Heim-type bearings that flex easier than any others you will try. With this type of arm, you can fine-tune the caster to exact tolerances. All the other methods are by the "guess method" and will frustrate the hell out of you getting the caster where you REALLY want it and you'll end up settling for a lesser quality job. I've done several vehicle lifts and would never consider any of the first options you laid out.
Ronny, this is a great video. So much I could comment on but I will keep it short. Showing how that handle can slap back was awesome. I have done a few recoveries with these jacks. Respect the jack! The suggestion to try it in your driveway before needing it is spot on. And you didn't mention it but folks never ever get under a rig supported by a farmers jack.
Whenever you jack up a vehicle regardless if the surface is flat or slanted, secure your wheels with your handbrake and put a rock or something in front/behind the wheel to prevent it from moving/rolling. Just my 50c. For the rest great video! Thanks!
It is not a good idea to use handbrake alone with a 4WD which has a driveline handbrake. Some rear wheel handbrake systems with one-piece shoes are also useless when the vehicle rolls in the reverse direction.
I saw a doco years ago with Malcomb Douglass using a Kanga jack, he jacked up the front and pushed it sideways to get the wheels out of a rut in doing so he nearly lost his legs as it flicked out. Funniest thing I've seen, he wasn't the sharpest tool in the shed.
It really is a good idea to use a bar or something long to knock the selector into "lower" from the side with a bit of distance if you can. I have seen them immediately release and go flying as the vehicle fell. I believe you should still be able to raise the body with the selector in the "lift" position, it should just ratchet up.
Thanks very much. Most informative. I got one as a Christmas present and although I eventually worked out how to raise the jack, I could not fathom how ti lower it.
I usually never comment but I need to. Ronnie, your videos are the best man. Very thorough and thought out. I watch them all. Thanks for a job well done. Always, From America.
Another way to use this type of jack, Although I'm not recommending it because it's dangerous. But I have done it myself many times. If you are in the mud and stuck in deep ruts and have tried everything else, you can remove the hitch from the receiver, slide the jack tongue into the receiver, jack it up as high as it will go, and then push the vehicle sideways. It can be dangerous but it will get you out of the ruts. And if your front bumper is strong enough you can do the same on the front end as well. I grew up boonie bouncing up in the mountains of Oregon without a winch and have gotten unstuck like this many times. If you choose to do it this way just be mindful of the danger and be very careful.
Great demo mate you blokes downunder know your 4x4 stuff, just got a Hi-Lift for my mitsy l200 ill need a couple of straps and D shackles to reach under front recovery lugs and ill feel more confident when using the jack, good point about side step slide!! Regards from boggy Ireland 😂🍀👍
Few years ago, when I first started learning recovery and self-reliance, I watched a bloke use a hi-lift jack, he put his chest between the handle and the jack, using his weight to push down. Kinda swinging over the handle. There was this sudden noise like a street fight had broken out, about 6 blokes (including me) started yelling at him to stop. We were so loud, if there were a bucks party next door, they would have complained about the noise.
Hello, Ronny, from central Mississippi, USofA. Just found your channel; liked what I saw; and subscribed. Another name for these jacks is "Sheep Herder" jack. Maybe that's from using one to stretch fencing. Anyway, I've had my Sheepherder; Hi-Lift; etc. jack for about 38 years or so. Been in storage for most of that time. Just pulling it out again because I now have a 1981 Jeep CJ-7 thanks to my son-in-law. He wanted my 1976 Chevy half-ton, short wheelbased, stepside pickup ;and I wanted his Jeep. I've had 4x4 trucks before, but this is my first JEEP. We're both in "hog heaven". lololol. Anyway, one small tip. When not actually jacking the handle, leave it in the upright position just in case the lock handle is knocked to the down position. That's extra insurance against getting wacked by the handle as you demonstrated in this video. I really like your rig man, except for one thing......the steering wheel is on the wrong side. lololol. Those stock jacks could be used as buried, deadman winch anchors. Have a Blessed Day, my friend.
Keeping your head away from that handle when lowering is great advice. Many years ago I was cracked in the head from the handle. All my own stupid fault but WOW did it hurt, was seeing stars for a bit and sported a bruise which ensured embarrassment.
You can change a wheel with a farm jack lifting the rim, lift and shove a log under the axle, drop the jack change the wheel, reversr step one to whatever and your done. I have done this Cheers
Ronny, you planning on doing a winching with a hilift video? There are a few but none that I really like. Obviously you wouldn't need to do this very often but I'd sure appreciate it.
Mate i love your vids, but never ever stand in front of a high lift jack. Always from the side, the reason is when they fail its always catastrophic, the handke goes and the jack will fall forward. Always quicker that you can react. Keep up the good work
you can always put a rock and a piece of wood underneath a bottle jack to make it as high as you want to go. You just need to raise it a couple of inches to get the vehicle unstuck.
11:35 You've got the right idea, just shorten your strap then hook the eye ends of your strop, that you put through the spokes in your wheels, onto the hooks of the wheel lifting mate, then you're good to go!
When you were jacking up the jeep using the rock sliders I do this on my Toyota Tacoma to however I open the door that way if the jack does slip and falls inward to the truck and it’s not gonna do any real damage it’s not going to kris your door panel or smash a window just some thing I do a little different I guess
As an arm chair comment only. I suppose you can use the lift mate or strap to lift the vehicle up enough to prop the vehicle on something. Remove the jack. Replace tire. Then use the jack and lift mate to lift again enough to remove the temporary stand and lower. Easy peasy! :P
An old video , but still a good one , and i could not agree more about high lift jack being dangerous , you need to keep your wits about you , because all manner of things can happen with a high lift jack . The towel around the top of the jack if you are jacking from the side is also a good idea , i remember many years ago being bogged up to the axles in my old G60 nissan with the car on an angle and the wheels that where slipping where high sided on the diagonal plane if that makes sense(single wheeler diffs ) , and i was jacking with the high lift from the side and ground was uneven as hell , and i was hanging onto the top of the jack to try and stabilize it a bit jacking with the other hand , and of course the obvious happened , the foot of the jack slipped slightly with the weight of the car on it and pinned my hand to the car body , and at the time i was on my own miles from anywhere , i ended up getting my hand out , but it hurt , and 6 hours later i ended up extracting myself from a 40 foot bog , by jacking , packing up under the tyres , lots of digging , even gave using the high lift jack as a winch a go ( not something i would do again unless in the most dire of circumstances) and i had to bury the spare some distance away as there where no trees close . You do what you have to to get out , but you only get one life , so be careful .
Nope. If you centre lift on a side rail, or hoist a rear wheel, the two free high wheels will turn unless you have lockers and they have been engaged, which might be a bit of a guess. You will be till left with only the rear brake friction being effective -- or not. Too faith-based for my liking.
Nice video, Couple points....You didn't chalk the Jeep before you lifted it from the center the first time. If you did, it wouldn't have moved on you. Secondly, if your going to use straps through your wheels, you should use chafe guards on them where they contact the rim, to prevent cutting with all that weight.
I grew up on dairy farms here in the U.S. and we had these type jacks for the tractors. If you don't know how to use these you better learn BEFORE you use these for an actual tire change. Seen a fellow farmer smash his hand and he was experienced.
Out of curiosity, would there be any utility in having a hollow crossbar to pass under a vehicle which has no side bars and using two jacks to lift it. The bar would be pinned to the lifters to avoid one or the other of the jacks from spitting out. The bar should also have a ribbed or rubber upper surface to reduce the entire vehicle side-slipping and crushing side panels on the jack columns. The old Falcon bumper jacks had some of the dangers. It was fascinating to watch them auto-lower if you stuck a piece of steel rod of the right length and weight in them.
hi mate .i would like to see your take on using the jack as a winch.I purchased the "hi-lift" brand winch kit ($130) for that reason as a back up winch (one advantage eg ;winching vehicle from the side which is difficult to do with a standard bar winch) Another example using the jack as a giant clamp or the opposite to that as jaws of life .People get fixated on the word "jack" but its much more than that.Would like to see you using it as a winch demo . Great vids
Hi Ronny, just had a look through your 0-200 tracks and Red Hill is not in there yet. I did it last weekend and would rate it higher than Julimar or Moondyne for terrain, I would love to get the area noticed more and maybe get people to stop dumping in the area and get a clean up done so the council involved know 4wders are people too
sean nightingale We havnt bothered with that area yet as we were not sure if you actually are allowed in there, its a grey area judging by the boulders blocking the entrance but maybe thats just because there is a rubbish problem there?? pretty sad really considering there is a tip on the other side of the road!
Great videos Ronnie. I have only just started heading out bush and the information you provide on this channel is sure to come in handy! Cheers from SA.
thanks for showing how to use Hi-Lift Jack I wonder to know about other thing which is the price of your land cruiser that you exemplified how much does it cost until it appeared with all these equips? Thanks again
Ronny , as a city slicker who gets out in the bush only every now and then i really appreciate guys like you who take the time to make vids like this. Thanks mate.
Tim
+Tim Robinson Photography no worrie mate ;)
Tim Robinson Photography-STUDIO 7 I
as a country guy that has been offroading and using recovery equipment regularly through out my whole life, i also really appreciate these videos!
it gives me good way to pass on knowledge to my less experienced friends and i enjoy watching a good lesson when they are this clear, concise and too the point.
Thanks for the quality education and entertainment !
I love your videos, so thank you. I've been using these for decades, so I have some lessons learned.
-Always be careful your fingers on the upright can't get hit if the handle slips free.
-Keep your head out from above the handle. Lean clear over it, or lean back.
-Have your escape path clear and planned ahead if things start moving. Run, don't try to stop it. Keep onlookers back and out of your escape path.
-Keep a wheel barrow tire and tube (no rim) for sticking between the jack and your rig. Your shirt was doing similar but less effective. You can zip tie the tube to the jack, but usually they either stick there or aren't needed.
-Keep WD-40 on hand (I've recently been told water can lube the pins when sand gets in there).
-You can move either end of your vehicle sideways (like out of a rut) by jacking the center (or low side) until it teaters, then push the rig where you want it to go. Dumping some rocks or logs in the rut before you push can keep it from sliding right back in. I did a complete 180 once on a trail where I had no room to turn around and was already high centered in ruts and pointing toward worse. It took a long time, but less than walking home.
-When you click to the climbing position, you can simply pull up on the handle and it will ratchet up to engage. You don't have to lift first, then click it.
-You can and should jack up to get over hard points like rocks or stumps before you winch forward. But, don't leave your jack there and pull or it will wedge the climbing bar into your rig. Jack up, throw rocks or irritating onlookers under the tires, then take the jack out before winching.
-You can use ratchet straps to keep the foot from sliding when it wants to.
-A base is a must for much terrain, and I prefer my own custom one made of layered plywood with carraige bolts installed to provide pegs for the holes in the foot of my jack so it can't slip off. Then I cross drilled and use pins to hold the jack down to the base, so I can pull my base back up out of the mud or snow after a lift.
FYI, I have a 60" hi-lift Xtreme in my F150, and a 60" Hi-lift firefighter recovery tool in my Grand Cherokee (not worth the extra money, but it has a cool foot with lots of options).
I love your videos, so keep it up. I especially love how you say what features make you prefer something, so if I don't have that same need I can factor that in. Thanks!
Thanks for such a detailed comment!
@@m3zza9 Thank you very much
He's right...the down procedure is dangerous. I was changing a tire without gloves in 110 degree weather. My hands slipped off the handler and it flew up and then just repeatedly jacked itself downward fast. The jack shot off the truck too. Luckily I was off to the side. Great video
when trying to get information on anything offroad im scrolling till i find your video mate. Best explained, great work.
Whilst there are a number of comments in the video about safety there are other points to note (as some reviewers have commented too).
Firstly, one must always chock the wheels before using the jack to prevent the vehicle moving (as the jeep did). Applying the hand brake is no substitute; if the vehicle has a transmission brake, like a Land Rover, it can move as soon as the first wheel comes off the ground; if the hand brake operates on the rear wheels and you are lifting the rear the brakes become ineffective as the weight comes off the wheels.
The other major risk is that the shoe of the jack can slip sideways if you are jacking under a bumper or a sill. It's far better to use a jacking point (which may require an adapter) or to weld metal lugs under the bumper or sill (as I have done on my 4x4).
These jacks can be lethal and when used in recovery situations conditions are often challenging and the user may be very stressed. Carry the right kit with you (e.g. jack adapter and wheel chocks) and you are more likely to achieve a good outcome.
Anyhow it's an informative video particularly for those not used to these jacks.
I've got a high lift, or as we call it, a tractor jack. It's probably 60 years old but works perfectly. Also have a manual tire bead breaker stamped Sears and Robuck1933. It works great too. Antiques I got from my father.
Heya there Ronny, love you use of the shirt, but I have a better solution. I have a split pool noodle on my highlift jack to avoid vibration noise while driving, works great as a panel guard aswell.
Great idea, I have a spare one laying around.
I also use a split one on the back of my roof flat rack when I want to slide things up on to it.
I've lived in a remote area of the Southern California Mojave Desert for 44 years and have been stuck in blow sand probably 100 times. Trying to dig your way out of sand is a wasted effort. The only way for one person alone to get out is to jack up the vehicle and fill in the holes under the wheel or wheels with rocks and sand, or whatever.... I have a high lift jack that I carry in my old 1978 Dodge Colt that I bought new and still tool around the desert with. The high lift jack is dangerous to use, but as you've shown in your really good video blog, it's highly effective and will get you out of almost impossible situations. My old Dodge Colt has steel bumpers and the high lift has been worth it's weight in 20 dollar bills for me. It's gotten me out of sand when the temperature was 118 plus, and being stuck in those conditions is not a guarantee toward continued good health.
love that land cruiser!!!
Ronny, as a city person, these things always intimidated me. But your explanation and highlighting of risks is excellent. Getting to know your equipment before you need it for real is spot on. GReat video, thanks for taking the time to put it together.
Ronny - This was a really well made video. I especially liked how you repeated and emphasized the risks of injury when using a farm jack, and actually demonstrated the backlash of the handle if the user lets go halfway through a stroke when lowering the vehicle. Back when I was a kid in the '60's, these were the standard jack that came with cars and pickup trucks (of course, they were only as long as needed to lift the vehicle for a tire change). I remember my Dad warning me about how dangerous they were if used carelessly. The screw-type scissors jack became the standard OEM tire changing jack in light duty trucks and cars here in the U.S. sometime in the early 1970's as I recall.
Make sure the pins move freely and squirt with some lube once in awhile, especially if you carry them on the outside of your vehicle. If they dont engage fully bad things can happen. I have had the handle start ratcheting down and you cant get close to grab it. These are extremely dangerous if you are not careful, always double check and be aware of whats going on. Having said that they are one of the handiest tools you can carry for lots of purposes. I have also used them for stretching fence wire etc.
I actually have one with special grabbers on the ends just for stretching fences. Glad to know at least someone actually used one for that purpose.
Check out the Rescue42 Jackmate. It's fifty US dollars but adds a lot of possible ways to use your High Lift Jack. Instead of using the pin that came with it I use a longer bolt like comes with the Jack. More secure during travel and storage. Probably overkill during use but better safe than sorry.
That was a great lesson. My lifted FJ came with a tiny bottle jack. So, hi-lift jack. Thank You, Ronny, for taking the time to pass on this knowledge on how to use and not use a hi-lift jack. I will get familiar with it in the driveway.
The wood is a great idea but i would reccomend framing the base on the wood though. Metal can be very slick on wood. I use 2x4 arround the highlift base over top of the high lift. I would also stand to the side just in case the hi lift slips and kicks out at the base
I am new to jeeps and off roading, Of all the CZcams channels I watch of the different expeditions and how-to do videos I like your channel the best.
I wish I lived in Western Australia so I could go out with you guys.
+wrangler cheers mate appreciate the feedback
He wants to say "no you dont" so bad.
Ronnie has learnt and shared a lot of good info over the years, He is one of a few who takes pride in what he teaches, I have been using Hi-Lifts for decades and it is good to see Ronnie teaching the safe tried and true methods of self recovery, WTG Ronnie.
another trick if all you have is the short farm Jack is to use a ratchet strap to strap your axle to the frame before lifting, this will keep your suspension from extending so you don't have to lift as high. only use very high quality ratchet straps due to the danger of the strap breaking and the the suspension forcing the tire down with a ton of force.
Having used mine once. I realize how much more I need to use it. You really have to get out and test your equipment. Even if you do it in a driveway. I used mine to help with a vehicle in my garage. Super nervous and trying an operation I had not practiced. I feel a little better about it now. But I need a lot more practice. I knew the principles and have even fully disassembled mine to do a complete rebuild. But all of that and my video watching did not completely prepare me.
I would classify this as a much-needed PSA, thanks.
Hi Ronny, I am new to 4 wheeling. I received a 4x4 and I'm planning on using it properly. Thanks to you and a few others I feel more confident about my first expedition over Easter. Thanks mate, your videos are heaps good.
Another use is to use the instability of the jack get a high centered vehicle free. especially if you have something crosswise under an axle, such as a log. Jack up the vehicle from the bumper on the OPPOSITE end you wish to go. From the front bumper if you want to go backward, rear bumper to to forward. Jack up the Jeep until it frees from the log or what ever the vehicle is stuck on and push hard. The Jeep will fall off the jack, hopefully far enough to be freed from the object its stuck on. WATCH YOUR TOES of the falling jack. if you have a winch use that, but this technique will work in a pinch. :disclaimer, this will take paint off of the bumper and possibly cause other damage if your rig is not up to the task.
Bloody good advice. Thanks for this! I just got a 3" lift and didn't even consider that my factory jack is probably a bit useless now.
Dont forget the stock scissor jack will still help for a tire swap. It only works if you can get under the axle. Of course if you have tires oversized it may not help. But considering most vehicles have a spot to store it anyways keep it on hand and dont forget it may be usefull
Very useful video. Great explanations of how to use and how not to kill your self or damage your vehicle while using.
Hey Aussies
I saw a little mini pickup truck in Scottsdale AZ March 15, 2023.
It's about time.
Thanks for the video. Although not as practical to carry, but any jack can be used with proper wood base. With some rocks properly positioned under the wood base, the shorter Hi-Lift jack can easily do the job. Houses have been lifted with hydraulic and proper wood base.
Exactly right , lifting on a smooth side step bar is dangerous even with the brake on it can still slide on sand or mud . I use one of those sling hooks attachment lift mates to lift the wheel when in a bog or place another jack or two under on blocks and let down on that to change a wheel .
High-Lift jacks are great but they have a low margin for error . A bull bag is probably safer for lifting both wheels . Your strap is too long , if you shorten it the jacking mechanism stays down lower near the tyre . Less potential for damage .
Ronny thanks for the tips and Video. I noticed when you were lifting with the straps on the lift you put your padding on the body of the vehicle. You could also put a long wooden block between the jack and the tire, allowing jack to hit the block and push block intothe tire which would prevent all body damage. Cheers Mate
Watched a number of your videos so far and you've got some great stuff. I'm glad you're showing people HOW to use this tool and the dangers that are waiting. I don't use the high lift anymore... it's incredibly dangerous. I have instead custom built a aluminum floor jack with custom bolt on blocks that are waaaay better and safer. It is a bit heavier, but I'll take the weight and keep my fingers.
Grew up around vehicles that had bumper jacks for the factory. My grandparents and dad always threw them out and got a bottle jack as a replacement because they had experiences where the bottom would shoot out
I've just bought one of these but have not used it yet. I feel prepared now after watching this. Thanks for the effort!
this was the most helpful "how to high lift jack" I've seen. thank you!
In my 20+ years of working on cars, I’ve learned a few things. One is that the most useful tools are usually the most dangerous. This is no exception. Be careful everyone.
Also, don't ever click the lever down if the handle is down while there is weight on the jack.
keep that in mind
Did that once. Once is all it took to learn that. Great tip!
We use ours on the farm a lot. From changing tractor tyres to lifting up drawbars of heavy trailers.... wouldn't go anywhere without it!
ADVANCEDTECHTIPS On farms they are great for many things from lifting dozer blades to changing traktor tyres.
Great for lifting timber and spreading something you're working on.
I stopped using them on 4wd's many years ago when I realised they are too inconvenient and sometimes dangerous.
It's a farm tool - not a 4wd tool.
Ade Larsen Yeah I agree. Since my comment I have even lifted the corner of a 40ft sea container on the farm with the high lift to level it out. Definitely proved its worth!
too what?
Cheers for that Ron, I haven't got a high lift Jack but now I know how to use it safely for when I do
You had me about ready to write a long dissertation about the adjustable control (radius) arms. How could you not elaborate more on them? That is by far the best way and easiest way to correct caster. If you're going to all the trouble to weld brackets or install adjustable ball joints (kingpins), a few dollars will buy you some adjustable control arms with heavy-duty Heim-type bearings that flex easier than any others you will try. With this type of arm, you can fine-tune the caster to exact tolerances. All the other methods are by the "guess method" and will frustrate the hell out of you getting the caster where you REALLY want it and you'll end up settling for a lesser quality job. I've done several vehicle lifts and would never consider any of the first options you laid out.
Ronny, this is a great video. So much I could comment on but I will keep it short. Showing how that handle can slap back was awesome. I have done a few recoveries with these jacks. Respect the jack! The suggestion to try it in your driveway before needing it is spot on. And you didn't mention it but folks never ever get under a rig supported by a farmers jack.
Great video, I especially like the improvising of a strap to make a wheel lift. I like how you showed when things go sideways as well.
Whenever you jack up a vehicle regardless if the surface is flat or slanted, secure your wheels with your handbrake and put a rock or something in front/behind the wheel to prevent it from moving/rolling. Just my 50c. For the rest great video! Thanks!
Very good point, thanks for your comment
It is not a good idea to use handbrake alone with a 4WD which has a driveline handbrake. Some rear wheel handbrake systems with one-piece shoes are also useless when the vehicle rolls in the reverse direction.
Thanks Ronny for the advice, safety is everything anytime even more so if you are remote. Really enjoy your vids... cheers.
I saw a doco years ago with Malcomb Douglass using a Kanga jack, he jacked up the front and pushed it sideways to get the wheels out of a rut in doing so he nearly lost his legs as it flicked out. Funniest thing I've seen, he wasn't the sharpest tool in the shed.
It really is a good idea to use a bar or something long to knock the selector into "lower" from the side with a bit of distance if you can. I have seen them immediately release and go flying as the vehicle fell.
I believe you should still be able to raise the body with the selector in the "lift" position, it should just ratchet up.
Thanks very much. Most informative. I got one as a Christmas present and although I eventually worked out how to raise the jack, I could not fathom how ti lower it.
Really good video on using high jack and it's hazards...thanks.
Gracias por compartir experiencias de vida en el aprendizaje, saludos desde mexico
Thanks for the very informative video. Hi-Lift should make a video like this.
I usually never comment but I need to. Ronnie, your videos are the best man. Very thorough and thought out. I watch them all. Thanks for a job well done. Always, From America.
loved this video as I'm going for a hi jack!
12:00 in a shackle would secure the slings!! get some shackles.
Another way to use this type of jack, Although I'm not recommending it because it's dangerous. But I have done it myself many times. If you are in the mud and stuck in deep ruts and have tried everything else, you can remove the hitch from the receiver, slide the jack tongue into the receiver, jack it up as high as it will go, and then push the vehicle sideways. It can be dangerous but it will get you out of the ruts. And if your front bumper is strong enough you can do the same on the front end as well. I grew up boonie bouncing up in the mountains of Oregon without a winch and have gotten unstuck like this many times. If you choose to do it this way just be mindful of the danger and be very careful.
Well made video. Great step-by-step how to along with emphasizing the risks of injury when using the Farm Jack.
Great demo mate you blokes downunder know your 4x4 stuff, just got a Hi-Lift for my mitsy l200 ill need a couple of straps and D shackles to reach under front recovery lugs and ill feel more confident when using the jack, good point about side step slide!! Regards from boggy Ireland 😂🍀👍
Few years ago, when I first started learning recovery and self-reliance, I watched a bloke use a hi-lift jack, he put his chest between the handle and the jack, using his weight to push down. Kinda swinging over the handle. There was this sudden noise like a street fight had broken out, about 6 blokes (including me) started yelling at him to stop. We were so loud, if there were a bucks party next door, they would have complained about the noise.
Hello, Ronny, from central Mississippi, USofA. Just found your channel; liked what I saw; and subscribed. Another name for these jacks is "Sheep Herder" jack. Maybe that's from using one to stretch fencing. Anyway, I've had my Sheepherder; Hi-Lift; etc. jack for about 38 years or so. Been in storage for most of that time. Just pulling it out again because I now have a 1981 Jeep CJ-7 thanks to my son-in-law. He wanted my 1976 Chevy half-ton, short wheelbased, stepside pickup ;and I wanted his Jeep. I've had 4x4 trucks before, but this is my first JEEP. We're both in "hog heaven". lololol. Anyway, one small tip. When not actually jacking the handle, leave it in the upright position just in case the lock handle is knocked to the down position. That's extra insurance against getting wacked by the handle as you demonstrated in this video. I really like your rig man, except for one thing......the steering wheel is on the wrong side. lololol. Those stock jacks could be used as buried, deadman winch anchors. Have a Blessed Day, my friend.
thank you for teaching us high lift safety!!
They were called Wallaby jacks where I grew up. because of the action of the handle
Keeping your head away from that handle when lowering is great advice.
Many years ago I was cracked in the head from the handle. All my own stupid fault but WOW did it hurt, was seeing stars for a bit and sported a bruise which ensured embarrassment.
Can you do a segment , using a high lift jack as a PRESS to change control arm bushes on the track?
Hi Ronny, Only just getting into 4 wheeling. Your videos are truly awesome and so informative, thank you.
Definitely the best high lift jack vid and now I'm kinda sacred of my high lift jack.
Well, you're not supposed to lift more than one wheel off the ground at a time unless you absolutely have to, so that was kind of a negligent mistake.
Just respect it mate and you will be fine. Never stand in front of the jack or handle, allways stand the side doesnt matter which on
Great video Ronny, I recovered many a vehicle with these, more times using it to winch than lift unfortunately.
You can change a wheel with a farm jack lifting the rim, lift and shove a log under the axle, drop the jack change the wheel, reversr step one to whatever and your done. I have done this Cheers
Wow! I have never used one of these but now I see how dangerous they can be. Thanks for the videos man. Keep them coming.
Informative video that could save a few lives.
great safety demo Ronny
Only person who tells you about the 50kgs weight factor’ well done
Super clear video, thanks so much for uploading.
just as im thinkin about getting one your videou comes up, percect timing, great video and very educating
Hahaha nice
Thanks for the video - good to see how it should be used safely
Ronny, you planning on doing a winching with a hilift video? There are a few but none that I really like. Obviously you wouldn't need to do this very often but I'd sure appreciate it.
Patrick Rich its something we may done later on after some other video already planned
Mate i love your vids, but never ever stand in front of a high lift jack.
Always from the side, the reason is when they fail its always catastrophic, the handke goes and the jack will fall forward. Always quicker that you can react. Keep up the good work
Great video and good emphasis on safety. Thanks Ronny
Great video, got stuck in mud with my Tacoma, recently, this would have helped, thanks.
you can always put a rock and a piece of wood underneath a bottle jack to make it as high as you want to go. You just need to raise it a couple of inches to get the vehicle unstuck.
11:35 You've got the right idea, just shorten your strap then hook the eye ends of your strop, that you put through the spokes in your wheels, onto the hooks of the wheel lifting mate, then you're good to go!
Good of you to concentrate on the safety
good knowledge and thanks for sharing, great instructional video. Have you ever though of being an air steward 🙂
When you were jacking up the jeep using the rock sliders I do this on my Toyota Tacoma to however I open the door that way if the jack does slip and falls inward to the truck and it’s not gonna do any real damage it’s not going to kris your door panel or smash a window just some thing I do a little different I guess
Do you have another video showing how to use the highlift for towing/pulling?
As an arm chair comment only. I suppose you can use the lift mate or strap to lift the vehicle up enough to prop the vehicle on something. Remove the jack. Replace tire. Then use the jack and lift mate to lift again enough to remove the temporary stand and lower. Easy peasy! :P
Them desert pin stripes looking goog mate!
An old video , but still a good one , and i could not agree more about high lift jack being dangerous , you need to keep your wits about you , because all manner of things can happen with a high lift jack .
The towel around the top of the jack if you are jacking from the side is also a good idea , i remember many years ago being bogged up to the axles in my old G60 nissan with the car on an angle and the wheels that where slipping where high sided on the diagonal plane if that makes sense(single wheeler diffs ) , and i was jacking with the high lift from the side and ground was uneven as hell , and i was hanging onto the top of the jack to try and stabilize it a bit jacking with the other hand , and of course the obvious happened ,
the foot of the jack slipped slightly with the weight of the car on it and pinned my hand to the car body , and at the time i was on my own miles from anywhere , i ended up getting my hand out , but it hurt , and 6 hours later i ended up extracting myself from a 40 foot bog , by jacking , packing up under the tyres , lots of digging , even gave using the high lift jack as a winch a go ( not something i would do again unless in the most dire of circumstances) and i had to bury the spare some distance away as there where no trees close .
You do what you have to to get out , but you only get one life , so be careful .
Amazing video! Super useful. Just bought a hi lift jack for my VDJ 76. I will start practising :-)
hey Ronny, how about a comparison test between the ARB hydraulic jack and a conventional hilift, cheers
Alway put the vehicle in 4wd when jacking. It won't be as likely to roll when jacking. parking brakes usually only lock the rear wheels.
+Teamster Pride It should also be in gear/park.
and put on the e-brake first.
Nope. If you centre lift on a side rail, or hoist a rear wheel, the two free high wheels will turn unless you have lockers and they have been engaged, which might be a bit of a guess. You will be till left with only the rear brake friction being effective -- or not. Too faith-based for my liking.
Thank you.. just got a offroad jack, this was helpful
Nice video, Couple points....You didn't chalk the Jeep before you lifted it from the center the first time. If you did, it wouldn't have moved on you. Secondly, if your going to use straps through your wheels, you should use chafe guards on them where they contact the rim, to prevent cutting with all that weight.
I grew up on dairy farms here in the U.S. and we had these type jacks for the tractors. If you don't know how to use these you better learn BEFORE you use these for an actual tire change. Seen a fellow farmer smash his hand and he was experienced.
Out of curiosity, would there be any utility in having a hollow crossbar to pass under a vehicle which has no side bars and using two jacks to lift it. The bar would be pinned to the lifters to avoid one or the other of the jacks from spitting out. The bar should also have a ribbed or rubber upper surface to reduce the entire vehicle side-slipping and crushing side panels on the jack columns. The old Falcon bumper jacks had some of the dangers. It was fascinating to watch them auto-lower if you stuck a piece of steel rod of the right length and weight in them.
hi mate .i would like to see your take on using the jack as a winch.I purchased the "hi-lift" brand winch kit ($130) for that reason as a back up winch (one advantage eg ;winching vehicle from the side which is difficult to do with a standard bar winch) Another example using the jack as a giant clamp or the opposite to that as jaws of life .People get fixated on the word "jack" but its much more than that.Would like to see you using it as a winch demo . Great vids
Hi Ronny, just had a look through your 0-200 tracks and Red Hill is not in there yet. I did it last weekend and would rate it higher than Julimar or Moondyne for terrain, I would love to get the area noticed more and maybe get people to stop dumping in the area and get a clean up done so the council involved know 4wders are people too
sean nightingale We havnt bothered with that area yet as we were not sure if you actually are allowed in there, its a grey area judging by the boulders blocking the entrance but maybe thats just because there is a rubbish problem there?? pretty sad really considering there is a tip on the other side of the road!
sean nightingale If you are 100% allowed in there we are more than keen to check it out as it is so close to us...
Great videos Ronnie. I have only just started heading out bush and the information you provide on this channel is sure to come in handy! Cheers from SA.
Thanks for this great video. I reckon WA must be the 4WD capital of the world.
Ronny, could you share more details about the 'additional' headlight at 5:38
Onya Ronny. Excellent vid
hi Ronny, thanks for your tips!
Fabian Erde no worries
Very, very educational.
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. I’m new to all this and I find your videos the most helpful.
thanks for showing how to use Hi-Lift Jack I wonder to know about other thing which is the price of your land cruiser that you exemplified how much does it cost until it appeared with all these equips?
Thanks again
@6:11 "if you're bogged...." I heard if you're bored. If you're bod. Had to play it a few times, but bogged. Definitely bogged as in stuck.